• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-242
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1083-1098
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• 2009

The purpose of the study is to revaluate the new artistic values of Suprematism that immensely influenced the Russian culture in the beginning of the 20th century. Also through studying the relationship between people and costume within works of Malevich, who wanted to portray humanity through his art works, this study will research on how Suprematism not just stood as Russian Avant-garde art but significantly contributed to art and costume expression. The study methods are as follows. First, consider the formative background of Suprematism style of arts. Second, study of the development of Suprematism art through both Suprematism art and Non-objective art. Third, study how Suprematism style of arts is portrayed in art costume through works of Malevich. The results of the study are as follows. The Russian Suprematism art costume strictly originated from the Russian Suprematism style of arts. Suprematism simplified any reproductive element of fine art with a creative energy, which reflects the statement of Malevich that said, "The object does not exist, it only stands as a symbol." In other words, Suprematism abolished ordinary response to basic environment, and created a much more serious reality than the innate reality of the environment. When applied to art costume, such style sought after geometrical simplicity in shape and Neo-Premitivism trait in color. This trend is also expressed in 21st century fashion in new forms of Minimalism or Futurism. In this respect, Suprematism still holds an artistic value in a novel form even after a century since the beginning of 20th century when Malevich first presented Suprematism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.91-102
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• 2000

As an economy approach new state of affairs under the influence of the Shil-Hak philosophy, the Joshun society at 18th century gave common people to a chance to impress and to patronize the Arts. This social environment made an artist to drawing see and feel, this is a genre picture. Hong Do Kim(1745-1816 or 1818) was a typical genre picturer of Joshun, his picture reflected the time truthly and honestly and described vividly a life of common people, so expressed Realism what based on the actual. Therefore the purpose of this study is to analyze and to study costume of common people and their life style. The costume in a genre picture books are summarized. Man's basic dresses were Jugori and Baji uniformity, but based on the job or situation those had a little variation. People of a blacksmith shop wore that to enlarge sleeve of Bagi and Jugori and wore Strow Sandle exactly, in that way prepared for danger of treating hot iron. On the side, in the summer, Soikojambangiee and Deungguri jucksam wore at grain. The majority of hair style was Minsangtoo that Manggun not to be surrounded a head. Womam's basic dresses were Chima and Jugori, it was not to be different in compare with a woman of the aristocratic class, extremely appeal simplicity. But it was not to be of no accent on fashion even if common people, they wore a shot Dangko jugori that busts were seen below Jugori. A hair style was simple hair that her braid placed aboved a head, different with very richful hair style, Gachae that one‘s braid hair placed above a head, a hair style of woman of the aristocratic class and Kinuer. Because of common people's costume are not a special thing expect for basic dress-Jugori, Baji, Chima, many historical books or articles about costume are not existed. As the results of this study on costume of common people's life, we found that basic dresses appeared to a various types based on the job and the situation.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2011

This study examines the prati fashion style. prati fashion refers to a practical fashion, the most sought-after trend and newest fashion concept. This trend emerged as a response to the trio of minimalism, the recent economic downturn and the modern life style, and has led to powerful fashion lines and items. Therefore, this study is to understand and analyze the prati fashion style, with its focus on the 2010 modern fashion collection that embodied functional, economic, and minimal styles. First, the functional style realized by new materials provides comfort and allows multi-style changes. Second, the minimal style adds detailed changes to minimal silhouettes. Finally the economic style means easy to wear and easy to match items at affordable prices. The analyses stated above found that the prati fashion brought about a new paradigm to society, and influenced social, cultural and economic aspects of our daily life. It also helped find solutions to economic problems of this era. Drawing global attention, the prati fashion has functional, design and economic values, and thereby influences the shift of market paradigm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.28-36
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to investigate the effect of garment category, fashion-level and wearer's body type on the basis of temporal stability and to extend the contextual framework. The result was as follows 1) On the basis of temporal stability, Korean style, classic style, and large body type have more temporal stability than western style, fashionable style, normal body type. 2) On the basis of temporal stability of impression dimension, impression of appearance knave most temporal stability, next good-bad, next evaluation, next potency, and sociability. 3) In an interaction effect between measuring time and impression of evaluation, western, fashionable, classic style have the greatest interaction effect. In an interaction effect between measuring time and impression of appearance, western style, normal body type have the greatest interaction effect. In an interaction effect between measuring time and impression of good-bad, western, fashionable style have the greatest interaction effect. It is concluded that the results support the context framework on impression formation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.12-32
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• 2007

This study aims at investigating Geisha costume hidden in the history until now and how the fashion of Geisha style is expressed in accordance with character through the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha'. Major contents of the text consist of studies including the historical background and characteristics of Geisha costume in Chapter 2, the Japanese style expressed in the movie through the analysis of the work in Chapter 3, The movie brought in an opportunity to spread the mysterious culture and art of Japan to the world, making Japanese style an important interest in the world of fashion as well. In a way to study this, the investigation was carried out through literature data, DVD and newspaper of , fashion magazine, articles from the Internet, ete. The Geisha trend has made the hot blast blown harder in such ways to affect not only fashion but also cosmetics, electronic appliance, interior, etc. In S/S 2006, it was not limited to the Japanese style but diffused to the Orientalism in China, India, Korea, etc. It can be said that this study has its significance to be a starting point in investigating the special characters of Japanese Geisha costume hidden up to now. In the studies following in the future, the formative beauty demonstrated per Japanese designer needs to be more studied. Furthermore, it seems noteworthy to analyze and compare Chosun Dynasty's Kisaeng with Japanese Geisha.