• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.127-140
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of the style of textile pattern design on the process of building the fashion brand identity. In so doing, the study analyzes the color, style, and layout of the motive, and the drawings of the patter of textile of top seven Italian fashion brands which present in presented eight fashion design collections during the 1997∼2000 period. The results of the analysis show that the seven brands exhibit their unique characteristics of the color, style, and layout of the motive, and the drawings of the pattern of textile. The results can be interpreted in a way that their distinct features oft textile pattern design indeed contribute toward the establishment of their unique brand image and brand identity. The results of this study suggests that to initiate the top fashion brand, the fashion industry should develop its own unique style of textile pattern design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.155-166
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate the types of jeans fashion in the basis of designer brand. and to analyze the symbolic characters of jeans fashion. Designer brand re-established jeans fashion by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion. and escaped from fixed idea on materials and design. This study divides the types of jeans fashion within the designer brand into classifications of Hippie style, Punk style, American Street style, Neo-classic style, and Grungy style. Today, reinterpreting the resistant image of jeans fashion, designers creates the various styles and also restores the upscale image of it. The symbolic characters of jeans fashion are summerized as sexuality, deconstructiveness, conspicuousness, humour, and multiculturalism. As the results of the symbolic characters of jeans fashion in the new Millennium era will suggest the wide aesthetic expression and continue to influence a more diverse jeans fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.45-55
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• 2002

This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 2002

This paper is extended the meaning and period of CONICAL HAT. That is, the race in Central Asia and Western Asia have worn the conical hat before Scytian appeared. One in conical hat puts on the clothes of two-piece style and has the lifestyle. a horse riding and nomadism. Besides the race originate into the Indo-European language family. On the whole the conical hat has relations with the region and is classified into two groups. Scytian and Klin-Yar style. First. the Scytian style of low hat forms the seam of two-piece and is discovered in Southern Russia. Central Asia and East-Northern Asia. Second, the Klin-Yar style of high hat forms the one piece and generally is discovered in Asia Minor and west of Altai. Until now the moaning of the conical hat has focused on the military. However, one in Central Asia and Western Asia is mostly a king. nobility and god. Therefore, in addition to the meaning of military. I estimate that the conical hat may be expressed as the noble status.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.755-773
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• 2010

The purpose of the study was to examine concept of subculture and style of subculture by each age and to analyze internal meaning of hairstyle in subculture. The study carried out literary review on the basis of books related to subculture and hairstyle focused on the cradle of subculture and preceding researches of subculture style, and strived to find internal meaning of hairstyle by describing in-depth descriptive methods of qualitative research. And the study limited its range in the hairstyle in style of subculture from 1930s to early 1990s commonly described in subculture related books. As a result, there were natural pattern, cutting pattern, exaggerated pattern, set pattern, braid pattern, color pattern and addition pattern in types of hairstyle in subculture. The hairstyle in subculture symbolizes their internal value and ideology and hairstyle is a kind of language to express identity of subculture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.131-150
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• 1977

The new sense of costume is controlled by silhouette. The sense of the times is sensitively reflected in silhouette. For we can perceive the transition of the times through silhouette it is significant to know what course of changes the western costume, which almost became the international costume today, had been going through. I began with the definition and condition of silhouette in this study of silhouette. I took a general survey of silhouette study-ing various kinds of silhouette and the relation between the material and silhouette. I sought the factors which causec the changes in costume and also studies the process of the changes The process of the costume changes is studied by the order of ancient times, mediaeval times, mordern ages and present days. I selected one representative silhouette of women's costume of each period. The darpery form of the ancient time's costume became the tunic form and the tunic form became the tight tunic form today. From this we can perceive that the Gothic period was the limitation of westrn costume. It means that the ancient times was the period of drapery, the midiaeval times was the period of transition from tunic into tight tunic and the modern ages is the period of development of tight tunic. In Egyptian period thin materials were used for costume which was worn in exposed style. In Greek period the costume had the drapery style. The Roman's magnificent costume resembled the Greek's. The mediaeval costume was formed in Byzantium where the northern Europe style of costume was mixed with the gay oriental costume. The Romanesque and Gothic period followed the Byzantine period completing the midiaeval costume. Tight tunic is developed in modern ages. Italian fashion of tight tunic was the first fashion of the modern ages. Germanic and spanish fashion came after it. As Baroque period opened the French royal costume became magnificent and added Brition fashish to it. With the commencement of the modern ages the royal fashion came to an end. Modernages became peaple's period and the costume was simplified. After the First world wav designers and fashion books appeared with the development of technology. Thus the period of fashion industry came. For the designers in 20th country competed to create new designs, the fashion was changed year by year. The simplicity and practicality are not ignored in design, arid the designers added more atristic sense to dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.111-126
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the gender-neutral phenomenon, to grasp the flow of design, and to seek the future direction of modern fashion design. As for the scope and method of the study, this study was performed based on relevant literature. In terms of visual data, website photos were collected from the collection of S/S in 2016 to F/W in 2020. To assess the properties of the gender-neutral, analysis was implemented on the results after arranging the factors for gender neutrality and the characteristics suggested in the related papers. The fashion-related expert group analyzed the properties of the gender-neutral style from 1,031 pictures, where the gender-neutral style of fashion design collections was applied. As a result of the analysis, the characteristics of the gender-neutral were analyzed and divided into the extended body-positive performance style, the mashup style- respecting the conflicting culture, the street style of coexisting genders, and the fluid style of changing directions. In this study, the attributes were derived as acceptability, playfulness, and sustainability. Accordingly, it is expected that this study will play a fundamental role in the creative fashion design development and unfolding of the fashion industry and fashion designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.42
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• pp.69-90
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• 1999

Mannerism style evolved from the Renaissance style adopting the concept of grace as the ideal beauty, Having its ground on Neoplatonism the main goal of mannerism art was the realization of the invisible beauty over reality. Mannerism style in dress flourished in the sixteenth century court society, when courtly manners and courtly grace became the most important qualities in social relationship. Courtiers thought that courtly grace the ideal of beauty could be realized in the cultured and studied elegance. Mannerism style in dress evolved from the process of transforming and manipulating the Renaissance look for the abstract of beauty. The clothes of Mannerism style were against the natural movement of the human body. There was a tendency of refining and polishing the whole clothing and various technical skills were experim-ented on the mannerism style. The outstanding elements of this tendency can be found in the details like ruffs fathingale padding slashing puffing and etc. Mannerism intended to reconstruct the human body artificially to express courtly grace and novelty. During that process the new pose 'figura serpentinata' which is bizarre convoluted pose with full of flexibility was created. The expression of human body became more slender with elongated legs a torso with a long neck and a tiny head. This tendency of distorting the natural body forms were reflected in the formal characteristics of Mannerism dress style which is geometrical abstr-action unnatural elongation complex disposition and control with perfect ease.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.44-55
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• 2013

The main objectives of this study were to empirically examine the relationship between the preference of fashion styles of male college students and their individual taste in other areas including music styles and recreation types. Life style and values were also examined for their relationship with the fashion style preferences. Survey questionnaires were distributed to male college students in Seoul, Incheon and Gyeonggi-do during May and June of 2011, and a total of 256 responses were used in the final analysis. The results showed that there were three segments according to the fashion styles - 'modern-dandy', 'resistance style', 'no-individuality' groups - and there were significant differences between groups in terms of their preferred music styles and choice of recreational activities. Modern-dandy group preferred R&B, dance music and ballad, while resistance style group preferred hiphop, dance and reggae music. No-individuality group did not show any preference for a particular type of music. Both modern-dandy and resistance style groups liked sports, while resistance style group showed the lowest preference for hobby and culture. There were also significant differences in lifestyles and values according to the fashion styles of the three groups.