• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.36-37
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• 2000

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.88-92
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to understand the successful establishment of the cultural industry chain in Korea and discover lessons for China to improve its cultural industry. It was concluded that a one-industry development pattern cannot win in market competition and a cultural industry will strengthen its sustainability only through smoothing its relationship with other industries and establishing a cultural industry chain so as to further development and resist crises together.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.63-63
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• 2003

Western clothes began to be body-fitted from the middle ages and have changed into various forms. As the functionalism and simplicity were pursued through the modern society, western clothes became to be the clothes for all over the world.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.91-100
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• 2017

The primary goal of most clothing-related textbooks currently used in colleges in Korea is to determine how to plan and develop basic patterns. Therefore, they are limited in understanding the patterns and sewing methods of practical, ready-made clothes that are continuously being upgraded. According to previous studies regarding sewing methods in clothing construction textbooks, tight skirt, tailored jacket, and shirt sewing methods have been explained. However, there has been no study on the sewing methods of slacks. Therefore, this study attempted to suggest basic data needed for making slacks through a comparative analysis of their sewing methods for educational purposes. In addition, this paper is meaningful in that it complements clothing construction-related textbooks according to the current trends of diverse clothing design and materials and develops learning materials for the construction of clothes, which are applicable to practice. In this study, the sewing methods and construction procedures of slacks stated in clothing construction textbooks that are currently used in colleges and fashion-related educational institutes were analyzed. Among a total of 47 textbooks on the market, 15 books that cover the cutting and sewing methods of slacks and are suitable to slacks design were used. According to the analysis, most textbooks described the production methods only, without explanation of materials, which can affect clothing construction methods. Because there is a large difference in pocket and slacks procedures by textbook, there is a need for a standardized construction method with changes in clothing materials and design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.116-128
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to improve the rinkage between apparel industy and a university education on clothing construction. The random survey was carried out on 207 patternists, working at 64 apparel companies. In this study such factors as the individual characteristics, the method of pattern making, work, and an educational institution of pattern making were investigated. The results of this study are as follow : 1. Male workers are mainly thirties and forties who graduated high school with 5 years experience or more. Female workers are mostly twenties who graduated junior college with 5 years experience or less. 2. In a way of working, male patternists tend to perform pattern making by using drafting method while female patternists generally choose apparel CAD system for grading and marking.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.122-133
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to classify the somatotype on obese boys of 9 to 11 years old and to make an offer the basis which would be suitable for basic pattern construction by studying of their characteristics, forms and shapes. For this study, data were analyzed by using of photographic measurements in regard to 40 variables. The factor scores used in factor analysis become the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. 1) Eight main factors were extracted from factor analysis. 2) Three types were classified by cluster analysis. 3) Correspondent analysis was applied to data of 4 types in anthropometry between 3 types in photometry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.49-62
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• 1998

This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L*a*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data on Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.