• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1090-1111
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• 2010

Thanks to both developments in various media such as the internet and TV and China's economic growth, the fashion market in China has gain a lot of attention by global businesses as a newly-raised spending market. Fashion companies in Korea have entered into the china since the late 1990s. For them to get competitive edges, they have to differentiate their brand by creating new design based on the culture becoming mega-trend in fashion market. So in this research, I try to create fashion designs based on Hallyu Stars' fashion styles and images, who come on as a new culture code in China and other Asian. For this, I conducted theological consideration on what the Hallyu is, and looked into fashion styles in soft dramas which 5 Hallyu Stars started in and street fashion in Shanghai in China. Based on the outcomes of analysis, I figured out those star's fashion style and created products targeting young generation born after 1980s in China. The conclusion of this study is as follows. Firstly, the very definition of Hallyu which can be described as a phenomenon in which Korean movies, soap operas, and pop music have become immensely popular throughout Asia.has been expanding to signify the proliferation of Korean culture as a whole. Secondly, having selected the 5 female stars representing Hallyu, we were able to analyze and categorize their fashion styles on the basis of their music videos, movies, and soap-operas. Thirdly, In order to explore the level of influence of Hallyu fashion industry, we studied the street fashion of Shanghai The result was that we could observe both the slim and feminine cool casual style and the cute and affectionate pretty casual style simultaneously.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.485-502
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• 2018

In this research, we conducted an empirical study using the theory of sociologist Jean Baudrillard to examine the phenomenon of contemporary people in Korea acquiring tattoos. The researcher classified the consumption behavior of modern society, as described by Baudrillard in The Consumer Society, into three keyword phrases: consumption by personal taste, coded consumption, and recyclage of consumption. Using this as the premise of the study, 18 men and women in their 20s and 30s completed questionnaires and interviews, and the results supported labeling tattoo consumption as consumption by personal taste, tattoos as coded consumption, and recyclage of tattoo consumption, similar to the consumption pattern that Baudrillard sees. First, the younger generations have consumed tattoos according to their personal preferences. They express themselves by tattooing for self-complacency, self-marking, pursuing individuality, overcoming the appearance complex, and seeking pleasure. Second, they have consumed socially coded tattoos. They say that tattoos domestically act as negative codes and symbolize individuals. Although tattoos are a symbol of artists who are relatively free from social norms, they are still a symbol of social misfits created as such by negative perceptions. Third, the pattern of tattoo consumption is like that of contemporary consumption. Tattoos already have become part of popular culture in Korea, and there has been a changing trend in tattoo culture. This study has significance in that tattoos were regarded as a consumption behavior that deviated, from the perspective of deviance. That phenomenon of today's tattoo culture of today was confirmed through the empirical study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.356-375
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and cultural values of the headdress among Chinese minorities with diverse ethnic cultures, and to provide various data on the design of clothing accessories. Theoretical considerations about ethnic minorities were addressed through literature and prior research, with data being collected using literature and websites. The results are as follows. First, the most common type of headdress is the horizontal type, which includes the head style, headband, and head scarf. The second most common is the cylinder type, which is a headdress with variations in the shape of a round hat, and has is evident among various minorities. Third, the pagoda type is decorated with ornaments mounted on top of a round shape. Fourth, the square crown type is a piece of wood as a material for a form of the material and for a variety of jewelry and the production of up to meet the women's head of the jewelry. Fifth, head belt-type ornaments consist of a headband and fancy bead ornaments from the bottom of the head. Mongol women usually wear an exaggerated form of this type. Sixth, the head cover type is a head decoration influenced by the dress code of Muslim women. Seventh is the disc type of crown shape worn by the Dai. Next, the ogival type is a cone-shaped headdress hat most commonly seen as head ornament hat among the Dai. Lastly, the sailboat type is the most exaggerated form of hair ornaments found among ethnic minorities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.105-119
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• 2004

Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.50-64
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• 2009

In current society, products and services are positioned to match customers' lifestyles and emotions. One example of such can be collaboration strategies. Various types of collaboration can be found and should be applied to academic research in terms of fashion designing as well as in marketing. As a result, this research focuses on defining collaboration and identifying its different forms. Case studies are provided for each form of collaboration. A set of emotional factors required for collaboration and a domestic fashion brand is selected in order to carry out analysis and design production. As a result of this study, the following conclusions were reached. First, collaboration can be defined as two or more companies, brands or even individuals working together for an agreed period of time by sharing core competencies and advantages in order to pursuit profit and value creation. Second, collaboration types can be specified into two categories which are collaboration between companies within the fashion industry and collaborations with companies outside the fashion industry. In addition, companies may collaborate with the purpose of enhancing value, broadening its areas of business and to execute an event. Third, according to the case studies examined, effects of collaboration can be upgrade of brand images, variety of promotional benefits and increase in sales. Fourth, the selections of collaboration targets were made. MOGG and Sex&the City were chosen in order to apply collaboration strategies in line with promoting the domestic womens' wear market. Fifth, by considering and applying all the findings from the research, the limited edition line was produced under the design concept of 'Sex and the City with MOGG'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.65-76
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• 2009

Korea has established a code for the economic and cultural industry that covers a wide range of classes unlike the old information era which was limited to the simple knowledge, technology, tools, morals, and customers that had been established in our society. On the other hand, 'culture marketing' is a series of marketing activities in which value-added items are created and shared. The combination of business management and culture seemed pretty awkward considering how rapidly the world was changing, however, the nature of today's culture has changed and the economic nature of culture products has resulted from those changes. In this paper, two authors who expressed the cultural identity in the culture products are studied through a comparison analysis; the author Min Yeongsoon expressed the identity confusion that she experienced in a foreign country and how she overcame homesickness in her work; and the author Kim Ata expressed his confidence in Asia and used his clear and loud voice to express the culture in his work. In addition, today's culture products are affected by the surrounding cultures such as the member's traditional society, environmental culture, and individual's culture. It is a good source for good works of art. In this study, the efforts of seeking the cultural identity, structuring the concept, seeking a new market and possibilities are used to make a consistent process in order to make a series of the systems required for planning and developing culture products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2010

The club culture is not something unified. Rather, it is a group of subcultures which share intertwined areas. And it keeps its own dress code, dance style, music genre along with series of authoritarian and unlawful rituals. For young adults, a club is a new cultural space to enjoy in reasonable price and they can express themselves without thinking much about others. A club creates its unique mass culture by producing continuously changing and experimental fashion styles. As the club culture’s influence becomes powerful, the club market was established and experimental fashion styles are wide spread among general public, young adults who try to express their unique characters and even fashion-leading industry. The study results are as follows. First, dance club and its derivative, rave is symbolic axles and the center of social activity. They are also defined as culture which is related to specific space that continues to present and change sound and style. Second, the definition of clubber in a dictionary is club member or a person who is united with others. Third, based upon clubbers' fashion styles in Hongdae and Kang-nam areas, there are 5 different images including sexy casual, lingerie, dynamic, chic style and feminine style. Fourth, based upon case study above, to take unique life style of fashionista that leads fashion with trendy fashion style into account, we suggested five designs which are unique, sensitive and trendy. Fifth, through analyzing clubber generation and design factors of clubbers' fashion style combined with various trend, unique brand was developed to meet the demands of clubbers who want differentiated images and leading styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.648-659
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• 2000

Through this study I would like to examine the meaning system of the symbolized codes related with real costume figures of the abstract concept of the style of the mourning ceremonial dress in Chosun Dynasty as a variable cause of communication through non-language method by the structural analysis of coding of the ceremonial dress style and the meaning system of the codes centering on the traditional book of funeral etiquette dealing with hueneral cereony in the period. To achieve this purpose, I have used the symbolic theory of constructive concept by F. de Saussure, cultural notation theory of Roland Barthes & Umberto Eco, and structural style of costumes by Myung-Sook Han. The result of the study is as follows. 1. As Chosun Dynasty was a society in which people considered courtesy so much important and practiced the basic Confucian ideas of the three bonds and five moral disciplines in human relations, the characteristic of funeral rites in Chosun Dynasty consists in expression of the thoughts of moral ethics & relative systems and systems of clan rules, etc which was a langue determining the symbols of mourning ceremony dress because the mourning ceremony dress in the period should have the feature of a langue. The mourning ceremonial dresses in the period had five grades of the consume and the grades were determined to be classified into five levels according to the clan system of the chief mourner with sang, ha bang. And the method of the association of the mourning ceremonial dress codes had the six principles of Chinchin, Jonjon, Myoungboon, Chulip, Changyu, and Jongbok. 2. Regarding the mourning ceremonial costumes in Korean society, the meaning of funeral ceremony was expressed by the signifier and materials of the mourning costumes in the society. During the process of the funeral, the intangible feeling of condolence was the expression of mourning and the tangible mourning ceremonial dress was the signal with the lamentation meaning. Especially, characters and patterns were removed from the mourning ceremonial dresses in spite of their function of symbols and the styles of costumes were emphasized. Especially the meaning of condolences was symbolized by attachment of some small pieces of cloth on the upper garments. Hemp was mainly emphasized to be the material of the costumes and some different meanings showed according to the quality of the material hemp. The mourning ceremonial dresses were distinguished from ordinary dresses, which were emphasized because they gad some symbolic meaning of the mourning. 3. Considering the association of the synthetic relations of the costumes from the viewpoint that the mourning ceremonial dresses would be classified according to a system, the symbolization of them were avaliable by sex according to how to combine them and there were no distinction between social classes in the society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.1-11
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• 2006

Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.