• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.231-245
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• 2023

In the cosmetics industry, it is important to develop new materials for functional cosmetics such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-oxidation, and anti-aging, as well as technology to increase absorption when applied to the skin. Therefore, in this study, we tried to optimize the nanoemulsion formulation by utilizing response surface methodology (RSM), an experimental design method. A nanoemulsion was prepared by a high-pressure emulsification method using Glabridin as an active ingredient, and finally, the optimized skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was evaluated. Nanoemulsions were prepared by varying the surfactant content, cholesterol content, oil content, polyol content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization as RSM factors. Among them, surfactant content, oil content, high-pressure homogenization pressure, and cycling number of high-pressure homogenization, which are factors that have the greatest influence on particle size, were used as independent variables, and particle size and skin absorption rate of nanoemulsion were used as response variables. A total of 29 experiments were conducted at random, including 5 repetitions of the center point, and the particle size and skin absorption of the prepared nanoemulsion were measured. Based on the results, the formulation with the minimum particle size and maximum skin absorption was optimized, and the surfactant content of 5.0 wt%, oil content of 2.0 wt%, high-pressure homogenization pressure of 1,000 bar, and the cycling number of high-pressure homogenization of 4 pass were derived as the optimal conditions. As the physical properties of the nanoemulsion prepared under optimal conditions, the particle size was 111.6 ± 0.2 nm, the PDI was 0.247 ± 0.014, and the zeta potential was -56.7 ± 1.2 mV. The skin absorption rate of the nanoemulsion was compared with emulsion as a control. As a result of the nanoemulsion and general emulsion skin absorption test, the cumulative absorption of the nanoemulsion was 79.53 ± 0.23%, and the cumulative absorption of the emulsion as a control was 66.54 ± 1.45% after 24 h, which was 13% higher than the emulsion.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.347-357
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• 2023

The succulent plant Aeonium sedifolium leaves contain several compounds that are of interest for their cosmetic uses on the skin. This study measured the inhibitory effects of enzyme production and antioxidant, astringent effects and skin wrinkles using Aeonium sedifolium leaves (ASL). The total phenolics compounds (TPC) content of ASL under optimal extraction conditions was 34.49 mg/g for hot water extract (ASLW) and 61.64 mg/g for 50% ethanol extract (ASLE). The ASLW and ASLE extracts were freeze-dried, powdered, and used as solids. TPC content, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, and 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylben-zothiazoline 6-sulfonate) (ABTS) radical inhibition of the ASL phenolics were tested. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of ASLW and ASLE were tested at a TPC of 100 ㎍/mL. ABTS radical inhibition showed antioxidant activity of 100.00% in ASLW and ASLE, and the antioxidant protection factor of ASLW and ASLE was 1.07 and 1.22, respectively. The thiobarbituric acid-reactive substance (TBARS) inhibitory activity of ASLW and ASLE was 77.00%. The elastase inhibitory activity of ASLE was 69.03%, and collagenase inhibition activity for ASLW and ASLE was 29.82% and 54.76%, respectively. The astringent effect of ASLE was 89.82% at a TPC of 200 ㎍/mL. Thus, we concluded that ASL has the potential as a functional cosmetic ingredient with anti-aging effects on the skin.

• Korean Journal of Clinical Laboratory Science
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2018

Chamaecyparis obtusa (CO) has recently been attracting attention because of its beneficial effects on skin allergies, atopic dermatitis, and skin diseases, such as acne and eczema. In the present study, the extract from CO leaf grown in Jangseong gun, Jeollanam-do, Korea was evaluated for its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic effects in vitro. The total polyphenol content of the CO leaf extract was $25.89{\pm}0.31mg$ gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g. Gas-chromatography mass-spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis revealed the presence of six compounds in the CO leaf extract: ${\alpha}-terpinene$ (3.03 mg/g), ${\alpha}-terpineol$ (9.48 mg/g), limonene (5.96 mg/g), borneol (59.78 mg/g), myrcene (4.85 mg/g), and sabinene (11.31 mg/g). The $RC_{50}$ values of the CO leaf extract for $H_2O_2$ and ABTS radical were $5.47{\pm}0.13mg/mL$ and $4.00{\pm}0.01mg/mL$, respectively. In addition, the CO leaf extract showed significant inhibitory effects on lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production in RAW 264.7 cells and IgE-induced release of ${\beta}-hexosaminidase$ (degranulation) in mast-cell like RBL-2H3 cells. The cell viability assay showed that the CO leaf extract ($100{\sim}800{\mu}g/mL$) did not affect the viability of human normal skin fibroblast CCD-986sk cells significantly. Overall, these results suggest that the CO leaf extract is a potential functional cosmetic ingredient that can exert anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-allergic effects.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.564-569
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• 2012

Selenium was initially considered toxic to humans, but it was then discovered that selenium is essential for normal life processes. Selenium plays important roles in antioxidants. It is expected that chitosan microcapsules containing nano-selenium will be able to be used as a key material in bio-medical and cosmetic applications. The high concentration of chitosan derivatives guarantees increased antioxidative activity. Both inorganic and organic forms of selenium can be nutritional sources. The antioxidant properties of selenoproteins help prevent cellular damage from free radicals. The objective of this experiment was to study the antioxidative activity of chitosan nano-selenium. Our experiments were divided into five groups, in the presence of various concentrations(0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, and 0.9%) of chitosan. We performed an assessment of the antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity of respective concentrations of chitosan nano-selenium. The antioxidant activity was examined by the free radical scavenging activity on 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl(DPPH) assay. The cytotoxicity effect was measured by means of 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazole-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide(MTT) assay. As a result, the electron donating abilities of 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, and 0.9% of chitosan nano-selenium exhibited effective andioxidant scavenging activity at 12.5 ${\mu}g/m{\ell}$ against DPPH radicals. 0.3% chitosan nano-selenium did not show cytotoxicity on human keratinocytes. In general, the cytotoxicity of 0.1% and 0.9% chitosan nano-selenium showed the lowest effects. Though low cytotoxicity of 0.5% and 0.7% chitosan nano-selenium exhibited 29.67% and 38.4% against human keratinocytes on adding 100 ${\mu}g/m{\ell}$ and 50 ${\mu}g/m{\ell}$, respectively, cell vitality was recovered with 200 ${\mu}g/m{\ell}$. These findings support the notion that chitosan nano-selenium may be useful as a new active ingredient source for bioactive compounds.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.297-304
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• 2018

Coptis chinensis is used in oriental medicine for soothing, anti-inflammation, antimicrobial and antipyretic properties, and its main ingredient berberine is known to have strong antibacterial activity. In this study, we investigated the anti-microbial effect of hot water extract of Coptis chinensis (CW) on skin related microorganism and the airborne microbe, the antifungal effects of fungi, which are frequently detected in residential environments. CW showed antibacterial effect against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis, against the airborne microbe, which was collected in four different places. At the concentration of 100 mg/mL, the antimicrobial activity continued for 42 days, showed heat stability without change in the antimicrobial activity even after heat treatment. The MIC and MBC of CW against S. aureus was 0.03, 0.05 mg/mL, against S. epidermidis was 0.50, 0.75 mg/mL and against P. acne was 0.10, 0.15 mg/mL. As a result of measuring the MIC of four kinds of fungi with high detection frequency in the surrounding environment, Gliocladium virens was 65 mg/mL by determined as MIC which can inhibit one hundred percent of mycelial growth. The concentration 90 mg/mL was determined as MIC against Aureobasidium pullulans and 100 mg/mL against Penicilium pinophilum and Chaetomium globosum. CW was considered a safe extract that showed no irritation even in the ocular mucous membrane irritation evaluation test, a patch test. Therefore, these results suggest that Coptis chinensis has antimicrobial, antifungal and safety on human body and can be applied to the development of materials for cosmetic and residential environment industries.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.1383-1392
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• 2021

It has been reported that emodin, a major pharmacologically active ingredient of herbal medicines such as Polygonum cuspidatum, Polygonum multiflorum, Rheum palmatum, and Aloe vera, is effective in antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and liver protection. In this study, to investigate the potential of emodin to be used as a skin disease and functional material, the activity related to the improvement of inflammation and skin barrier function was confirmed. To observe the anti-inflammatory effect on HaCaT cells, which are human keratinocytes, cytokine inhibition was confirmed by ELISA kit and protein expression by western blot. In HaCaT cells activated with TNF-α (10 ng/mL)/IFN-γ (10 ng/mL), emodin was treated with each concentration (5, 10, 20, 40) µM. As a result, It was confirmed that the production amount of TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6 decreased as the concentration of emodin increased. In the experimental results on the expression levels of inflammation-related proteins iNOS and COX-2, it was confirmed that 48% of iNOS and 29% of COX-2 were inhibited compared to control at a concentration of 20 µM of emodin. As an indicator of skin barrier function improvement, the mRNA expression level of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn and the production amount of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricirn were confirmed. and excellent results were obtained with an emodin concentration-dependent increase. In particular, filaggrin, which was produced twice as much as the control at a concentration of 20 µM, is a protein involved in the formation of NMF, a natural moisturizing factor, and is known to play an important role in moisturizing the stratum corneum. In conclusion, it was confirmed that emodin can be used as a material for improving inflammation and improving skin barrier function, which is part of the potential for use as a skin disease and functional material. It is believed that if additional research is performed in the future, the scope of its application can be further expanded.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.305-313
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• 2021

This study verified the antioxidant and whitening activities of a Pinus koraiensis extract (PK) and a Hibiscus cannabinus L. extract (HC), and further evaluated the interaction of the extract ingredients when mixed at a 1:1 ratio (PKHC). The electron-donating and ABTS+ radical scavenging activities of the PKHC extract at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration were 93.7% and 94%, respectively, indicating a higher efficacy than achieved with either extract alone. Measurements of the tyrosinase the activities in response to PK, HC, and PKHC extracts at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentrations showed inhibitions of 40%, 27.5%, and 43%, respectively, confirming a higher efficacy of the mixture due to the synergistic action of the ingredients. The cell toxicity values in melanoma cells treated with PK, HC, and PKHC at 1,000 ㎍/ml concentration were 87.4%, 80.2%, and 98%, confirming a higher viability in cells treated with the mixture due to antagonism. The expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2), and tyrosinase protein expression determined by Western blotting decreased by 53.9%, 64.8%, 67.3%, and 56.1%, respectively, when PKHC was administered at a concentration of 100 ㎍/ml. Reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT- PCR) results also showed that PKHC at a concentration of 100 ㎍/ml inhibited the mRNA expression of MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase mRNA by 54.4%, 64.9%, 66.6%, and 63.1%, respectively. Taken together, the data confirmed the antioxidant and whitening effect of the PKHC extract and verified the possibility that this extract mixture has great potential as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.719-728
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• 2021

Melanin pigments are abundantly distributed in mammalian skin, hair, eyes, and nervous system. Under normal physiological conditions, melanin protects the skin against various environmental stresses and acts as a physiological redox buffer to maintain homeostasis. However, abnormal melanin accumulation results in various hyperpigmentation conditions, such as chloasma, freckles, senile lentigo, and inflammatory pigmentation. Tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme, plays an important role in the regulation of the melanin pigment biosynthetic pathway. Although several whitening agents based on tyrosinase inhibition have been developed, their side effects, such as allergies, DNA damage, mutagenesis, and cytotoxicity of melanocytes, limit their applications. In this study, we synthesized 4-chromanone derivatives (MHY compounds) and investigated their ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity. Of these compounds, (E)-3-(4-hydroxybenzylidene)chroman-4-one (MHY1294) more potently inhibited the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 5.1±0.86 μM) than kojic acid (14.3±1.43 μM), a representative tyrosinase inhibitor. In addition, MHY1294 showed competitive inhibitory action at the catalytic site of tyrosinase and had greater binding affinity at this site than kojic acid. Furthermore, MHY1294 effectively inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells. The results of the present study indicate that MHY1294 may be considered as a candidate pharmacological agent and cosmetic whitening ingredient.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.534-546
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• 2023

In this study, we investigated the antioxidant and anti-winkle activity in human fibroblast cell (CCD-986sk) of Persimmon Leaves (PL) as a cosmetic ingredient. As a result of investigating antioxidant activity through electron-donating ability and ABTS⁺ radical scavenging assay, the PL showed concentration-dependent antioxidant activity similar to ascorbic acid, a control group, at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. As a result of investigating the anti-wrinkle effect through elastase inhibition and collagenase inhibition assay, the PL showed concentration-dependent antioxidant activity similar to epigallocatechin gallate, a control group, at a concentration of 1,000 ㎍/ml. As a result of measuring the synthesis rate of pro-collagen type I and the inhibition rate of MMP-1 in UVB-induced CCD-986sk cells, the control group EGCG showed a 90.2% pro-collagen synthesis rate at 20 ㎍/ml and PL showed an 88.5% synthesis rate at 30 ㎍/ml. In addition, the inhibition rate of MMP-1 of 33.0% and 40.8% were confirmed in EGCG 20 ㎍/ml and PL 30 ㎍/ml, respectively. As a result of measuring the protein expression of pro-collagen type I and MMP-1 in the PL through western blot, it was confirmed that the protein expression of pro-collagen type I increased, and MMP-1 decreased when the PL was treated together compared to the UVB alone group. According to the above experimental results, it is expected to be used as a natural product material for cosmetics by confirming that the PL prevent photoaging caused by UVB stimulation and have antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects.