• Korea Journal of Cosmetic Science
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2019

The identification of compounds with anti-senescence activity in cell culture system is a first step in aging research. Given that pyruvate can be used energy source by conversion to acetyl-CoA in mitochondria, and protects cultured cell from various stress-induced cell damage and cell death, synthetic media (e.g., DMEM) often includes 1 mM pyruvate, which is very higher than the pyruvate concentration in human blood (approximately 30 ��M). However, the use of medium containing high concentration of pyruvate is not suitable for screening anti-senescence compounds, because pyruvate also protects against the cellular senescence of primary human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) through NAD+ generated during conversion to lactate. In this study, four extracts, i.e., Sprouted seed and fruit complex, Poncirus trifoliata fruit extract, Jaum balancing complex, and Prunus mume extract were used for evaluation of different anti-senescence effect in the absence or presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate, similar to the physiological pyruvate concentration. The senescence in NHDFs cultured with DMEM in the presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate (approximately the physiological concentration in human blood) is accelerated, as observed in pyruvate deprivation conditions. The cytotoxicity of the Poncirus trifoliata fruit extract was protected by pyruvate, and Jaum balancing complex and Prunus mume extract had anti-senescence activity in the presence of 0.1 mM pyruvate, but not in the absence of pyruvate. Given that pyruvate is a powerful protector against both cytotoxicity and cellular senescence, the screening of candidate agents for anti-senescence in high pyruvate conditions using an in vitro cell culture system is not valid. Therefore, we recommend the use of a low concentration of pyruvate to evaluate the anti-senescence effects of candidates, which is more similar to in vivo aging conditions than excessive stress-induced senescence models, to exclude the effect of excessive pyruvate in vitro.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.578-589
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• 2003

The fuzzy rat that expresses hypersecretion of sebum and hyperplastic sebaceous glands is a genetic mutant for the study of many pharmacological aspects especially human acne. Through this model, we examined the effects of several phospholipids on the secretion of sebum after topical application. The phospholipid derivatives were phosphatidylcholine (PC), hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine (HPC), phosphati dylserine (PS) and hydrogenated phosphatidylserine(HPS). All agents were dissolved into the vehicle (1, 3-Butanediol, ethanol and water) at 0.5％ weight volume and applied on the dorsal area of the fuzzy rat. To observe histological changes, the skin biopsies were stained with Oil Red O and the size and morphology of sebaceous gland was observed under microscope. Topical treatment with PC and/or HPC showed a marked decrease in sebum excretion. Especially hydrogenated PC (HPC) appeared to have more predominant sebosuppressive function than any other treatment. The other agents such as PS and HPS showed a marginal effect on sebum secretion. With the sebosuppressive activity, HPC and PC seem to have a good potential application on acne treatment. In order to obtain more insights into possible mechanisms behind the above observations, effects of each phospholipid on the expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor (PPAR) genes were investigated. Recently, it has been demonstrated that expression and activation of PPAR subtypes appear to modulate the accumulation of cytoplasmic fat droplets that characterizes the sebocyte differentiation(1). It was also previously suggested that PPAR${\gamma}$ antagonist would seem possible to interfere sebum production without side effects (2). In this study we examined the diverse effects of the tested phospholipids on the expression of several PPAR genes based on reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) from the topically treated skin of fuzzy rats. The results and possible implications are discussed.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.553-557
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• 2009

Root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai were tested to see the possibility for functional cosmetic agents. From ethanol extraction method, 97% of decursin and decursinol angelate was obtained, and concentration ratio of decursin to decursinol angelate was about 3:2. To test possibility as a functional cosmetic agent, DPPH free radical scavenging assay, UVA/B absorption, tyrosinase inhibition assay, melanogenesis inhibition assay, elastase inhibition assay and MTT assay were done. Root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai showed $45.2{\pm}3.9%$ tyrosinase inhibition of tyrosine, and $24.2{\pm}12.0%$ melanin inhibition at $15{\mu}g/ml$ extract concentration, so that it indicated good whitening effect. DPPH free radical scavenging activity was $40.9{\pm}9.1%$ at $240{\mu}g/ml$ concentration, which is relatively good. Anti-wrinkle effect was poor such that it was $12.7{\pm}6.8%$ at $100{\mu}g/ml$. UVA/B absorption was also negligible. From the research, root extracts of Angelica gigas Nakai showed good potential as a whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.201-208
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• 2006

Propionibacterium acnes have been recognized as pus-forming bacteria triggering an inflammation in acne. The present study was conducted to evaluate antimicrobial activities of Dryopteris crassirhizoma Nakai against these etiologic agents of acne vulgaris and application possibility as a cosmetic resource. D. crassirhizoma crude extract and hexane fraction was prepared and its anti-acne effect against Propionibacterium acnes was investigated with minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and paper disk diffusion method. The MIC of D. crassirhizoma crude extract and hexane fraction was 0.008 mg/mL and 0.001 mg/mL, respectively. This implies that D. crassirhizoma extract may be an efficient anti-acne ingredient for cosmetics, as a crude extract. The paper disk diffusion assay showed that its anti-acne effect was similar to that of triclosan. The cytotoxic effect of D. crassirhizoma extract was determined by a colorimetric MTT assay using HaCaT cell line and D. crassirhizoma extract exhibited lower cytotoxic effects. Finally, we examine the stability of D. crassirhizoma extract to temperature and pH. The D. crassirhizoma extract was very stable to high temperatures ($25{\sim}121^{\circ}C$) and to wide pH range ($pH\; 2{\sim}11$), suggesting its utilization for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.3 s.58
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• pp.193-200
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• 2006

We investigated the effect of moisturizing and anti-oxidation of Astragalus membranaceus (Astragali Radix) root extract with respective to growing districts and extract methods for the purpose of development of cosmetic ingredients. Astragalii Radix was collected in Jecheon, Jeongseon, Taebaek, and Yeongju in Korea and China as growing districts. Formononetin was determinated by HPLC method as one of the various active agents in Astragalus membranaceus root extract. The 75% ethanol extract demonstrated to be more effective than $H_2O$-extracted one for a scavenging activities to DPPH radicals and reactive oxygens. The 75% ethanol extract showed $IC_{50}$ (50% scavenging concentration) of 2.162 mg/mL and 2.981 mg/mL in case of free radical scavenging activity test and reactive oxygen scavenging activity test, respectively Especially, free radical scavenging activity of isoflavonoids isolated from ethylacetate fraction was similar to scavenging activity of genistein. Astragalus membranaceus root extract of Jecheon district by sonicating extraction method was more effective in skin hydration compared with others.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.269-273
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• 2007

We studied anti-microbial and anti-oxidant activities of bio-active components in stem of Juniperus chinensis L. and leaf of Abies koreana Wilson. Those plants of needle leaf tree family were reported to contain anti-cancer compounds. The anti-bacterial activity was tested by Broth dilution method against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus. As results, Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 17.0% and 8.5% higher anti-bacterial activity than methyl paraben, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of Juniperus chinensis L. and Abies koreana Wilson extracts showed 45 % and 44 % at 5,000 ppm. We measured polyphenol (catechin equivalent) and flavonoids quantity. The Juniperus chinensis L. extract contained 312 mg/g of polyphenol and 105 mg/g of flavonoids. The Abies koreana Wilson extract contained 280 mg/g of polyphenol and 103.8 mg/g of flavonoids. The cytotoxicity of extracts was measured by neutral red assay. Extracts did not affect the viability of CCK-986sk cells up to a concentration of 1,250 ppm. In conclusion, these data suggest that extracts of needle leaf trees would be usefull as antiseptic agents and anti-oxidants for cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.413-421
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• 2014

Corticotropin-releasing factor (CRF) is involved in the stress response and there is increasing evidence that stress influences skin disease such as hair loss. In cultured human hair follicles, CRF inhibits hair shaft elongation, induces premature regression and promotes the apoptosis of hair matrix keratinocytes. We investigated whether CRF influences the dermal papilla cells (DPC) that play pivotal roles in hair growth and cycling. Human DPCs were treated with CRF, adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) and cortisol, key stress hormones along the hypothalamic-pituitary -adrenal (HPA) axis for 1-24 h. Interestingly, CRF modulated the expression of cytokines related to hair growth (KGF, Wnt5a, $TGF{\beta}-2$, Nexin) and increased cAMP production in cultured DPCs. CRF receptors were down-regulated by negative feedback systems. Pretreatment of CRF receptor antagonists or protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitor prevented the CRF-induced modulation. Since the CRF induces proopiomelanocortin (POMC) expression through the cAMP/PKA pathway, we analyzed POMC mRNA. CRF stimulated POMC expression in cultured human DPCs, yet we were unable to detect ACTH levels by western blot. These results indicate that CRF operates within DPCs through CRF receptors along the classical CRF signaling pathway and CRF receptor antagonists could serve as potential therapeutic and cosmetic agents for stress-induced hair loss.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.95-108
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• 2014

Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Contact dermatitis induced by cosmetics is the result of an inflammatory response of the skin to direct irritancy. The initial event that this inflammatory response is observed is the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. In this study, the anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from Korean herb medicines were investigated using RAW264.7 macrophage. Among the fifty one extracts tested, the ethanol extracts from Biotae Orientalis Folium, Biotae Orientalis Folium (roasted), Cyperi Rhizoma, Nepetae Spica, Benincasae Semen, Dioscoreae Rhizoma, Dioscoreae Rhizoma (roasted), Mori Ramulus, Pini Ramulus and Alismatis Rhizoma reduced the cytotoxicity and inhibited the productions of Nitric oxide (NO) and cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-1${\beta}$, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-${\alpha}$n lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW264.7 macrophage. Additionally, they didn't induce the skin irritation when tested the human patch test. Overall, the result of this study suggests that the extracts of the ten Korean herb medicines are useful cosmetic agents for preventing the skin irritation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.73-79
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• 2018

The primary cilium protrudes from the cell body like a bio-antenna that has many receptors, channels and signaling molecules to sense and response to external stimuli. The external environment such as ultraviolet irradiation, temperature, humidity, gravity and shear stress always influences skin. Skin responds to external stimuli and differentiates by making melanin, collagen and horny layer. Ciliogenesis participates in developmental processes of skin, such as keratinocyte differentiation and hair formation. And it was reported that skin pigmentation was inhibited when ciliogenesis was induced by sonic hedgehog-smoothened-GLI2 signaling. When skin is exposed to ultraviolet irradiation, alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormones (${\alpha}$-MSH) increase melanin synthesis through activation of the cAMP pathway in melanocytes. We observed that ${\alpha}$-MSH and cAMP production inducers inhibited ciliogenesis of melanocytes. Therefore, we thought that regulation of ciliogenesis is potential candidate target for the development of agents to treat undesirable hyperpigmentation of skin. As a result, we found out that an ethanol extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra (EGG) root and 3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester (TCTE, Melasolv) significantly inhibit melanin synthesis of normal human melanocyte by inducing primary cilium formation. This study proposed new theory to regulate skin pigmentation and cosmetic components for skin whitening.

• Journal of Korea Foresty Energy
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.69-77
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• 2003

This study reviewed antioxidants and various enzymic physiological functions of Korean ash tree extractives that contains coumarine and ester component in order to examine the practical possibility of those materials as pharmaceutical and cosmetic additive applications. first, in the experiment of enzymic physiological activity, the electron donating ability showed 62.00% at 1ppm and over 90% at 10ppm or higher concentration, and the pseudo SOD ability showed 39% at the concentration of 2000ppm and 84.73% at the concentration of 5000ppm. Second, the inhibition activity of xanthine oxidase showed a relatively low inhibition effect of 45.57% at 200ppm, and the inhibition effect of tyrosinase showed 57.51% at 2000ppm. However, it showed a very low inhibition effect at the concentration of 500ppm or less. Third, the lipid oxidation, when Cu$\^$2＋/ion was used as an oxidation accelerator, showed the inhibition effect of 82% at the concentration of 10ppm, and when Fe$\^$2＋/ion was used also as the oxidation accelerator, it showed a very outstanding effect of 60% and more at 100ppm. Conclusively it is clear that the extracts of Korean ash tree bark can be used as cosmetic and pharmaceutical additive agents due to their excellent activities as antioxidant and enzymic physiological functions of it.