• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.317-323
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• 2008

Some surfactants known as biosurfactants, are produced biologically by yeast and bacteria from various substances. They are more effective and environmentally friendly than many other synthetic surfactants. Antimicrobial activities of sophorolipids produced by Candida bombiocola were investigated against various microorganisms. Minimal Inhibitory concentration (MIC) of sophorolipid against S. mutans, C. xerosis, and P. acnes were 0.005, 0.05, and 0.005%, respectively. The antimicrobiological activities were more effective than those of SLS and APG. Skin exfoliating and moisturizing effects of vehicles with the sophorolipids were tested. The skin turnover time of aqueous solution with 0.25% sophorolipids was similar to that of aqueous solution with 5.0% lactic acid. Higher moisturizing effects on skin showed as the concentration of sophorolipids increased. We suggest that the sophorolipids can be used for cosmetics as an antimicrobiological agent and an active materials of skin moisturizing and exfoliating.

• ALGAE
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.163-170
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• 2015

Tyrosinase inhibitors are an important component of cosmetic products. Our previous studies have proposed that eckol isolated from the brown alga Ecklonia cava, can be explored as a tyrosinase inhibitor. However, cellular activities and mechanism of action of eckol remain unknown. Therefore, the current study analyzed the eckol binding modes using the crystal structure of Bacillus megaterium tyrosinase. The effects of eckol on melanin synthesis induced by ${\alpha}$-melanocyte stimulating hormone in B16F10 melanoma cells were also investigated. We predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and eckol. These molecular modeling studies were successful (calculated binding energy value, $-115.84kcal\;mol^{-1}$) and indicated that eckol interacts with Asn205, His208, and Arg209. Furthermore, eckol markedly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. We also found that eckol decreased the expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP) 1, and TRP2. These results indicate that eckol is a potent inhibitor of melanogenesis, and this finding may be useful for the development of novel pharmaceutical and cosmetic agents.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.17-27
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• 2001

A cell-based assay system for monitoring NF-$textsc{k}$B activity was developed to determine the influence of activated NF-$textsc{k}$B in human HaCaT cells. The pNF-$textsc{k}$B-SEAP-NPT plasmid that permits expression of the secreted alkaline phosphatase (SEAP) reported gene in response to the NF-$textsc{k}$B activity and contains neomycin phosphotransferase (NPT) gene for the geneticin resistance in host cells was constructed and transfected into human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT. Human HaCaT transfectant cells secreted the SEAP enzyme into the culture medium in a time-dependent manner until 72h. NF-$textsc{k}$B activities were measured in the SEAP reporter gene assay using a fluorescent detection method. The treatment of HaCaT cell transfectants with known antioxidants [e.g., N-acetyl-L-cysteine and vitamin C] showed inhibition of NF-$textsc{k}$B activity in a time-and concentration-dependent manner. The phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA) known as a stimulator of NF-$textsc{k}$B expression demonstrated that it increased NF-$textsc{k}$B activity in a time- and concentration-dependent manner. This assay system could be used to determine the quantitative measurement of NF-$textsc{k}$B activity in the human skin and allow the screening of anti-inflammatory agents from various synthetic chemicals and natural products for dermatological purpose. Abbrevitions used: NF-$textsc{k}$B, nuclear factor kappa B; I-$textsc{k}$B, Inhibitory kappa B; SEAP, secreted alkaline phosphatase; NPT, neomycin phosphotransferease; PCR, polymerase chain reaction: dNTP, deoxynucleoside triphosphates; DMEM, dulbecco’s modified eagle medium; FBS, fetal bovine serum; PBs, phosphate-buffered saline; MUP, 4-methylumbellifery phosphate; NAC, N-acetyl-L-cysteine; DMSO, dimethyl sulfoxide; PMA, phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.4 s.34
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• pp.111-121
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• 1999

Acne vulgaris, the most common skin disease. can be formed as only a few comedons or severe inflammatory lesions. The pathogenesis of acne involves various factors; excessive androgen, excessive sebum production, abnormal alteration of follicular epithelium, proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and inflammation. We investigated acne therapy using oriental herbs described in the Korean traditional medical book(Dong-ui-bo-gam). Oriental herbs(Angelica daurica, Arctium lappa, Coptidis rhizoma, and Glycyrrhiza glabra) were chosen based on their respective property of sebum control, anti-inflammatory activity, and anti-bacterial activity. We examined the effect of acne treatment, in terms of chemotactic inhibition, lipogenesis inhibition, and anti-bacterial activity for P. acnes. 1. Neutrophil chemotaxis assay; P. acnes secrete chemotactic factors and other pro-inflammatory extracellular products. Neutrophil chemotactic activity of P. acnes was measured by 48-well chemotaxis method. Angelica daurica clearly suppressed chemotactic activity of P. acnes. 2. Using sebaceous gland of hamster ear lipogenesis assay; Sebaceous lipogenesis was measured using ear biopsies by incubation or $C^{14}$-acetate in culture media. The $C^{14}$-labeled lipids were extracted and determined by liquid scintilation counting. Coptidis rhizoma markedly inhibited sebum production. 3. Anti-bacterial assay for P. acnes(MIC test); Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity. P. acnes did not develop resistance against Glycyrrhiza glabra. Retinoids are effectively to inhibit sebum production and regulate follicular keratinization process, with little anti-inflammatory activity. Angelica daurica suppressed neutrophil chemotaxis, Coptidis rhizoma inhibited sebum production, and Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity against P. acnes. A combined formulation of Angelica daurica, Coptidis rhizoma. and Glycyrrhiza glabra is expected to provide effective acne treatment.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.327-334
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• 2018

Studies on seaweed-based materials have been progressing steadily day by day. In this experiment, we checked the anti-oxidant, whitening, and moisturizing activities of fermented extract from a mixture of Undariapinnatifida, Saccharina japonica, and Gloiopeltis furcate. Also, Lactobacillus sakei strains of kimchi were used as the lactic acid bacteria. The physiological status of the combined seaweed extracts was also investigated. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging results showed that the inhibitory effects of the combined seaweed extracts were higher than the positive control. Furthermore, 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) and Mushroom tyrosinase tests were conducted during the whitening efficacy experiment. Hence, it was confirmed that the whitening activity of fermented extracts was greater than the extracts without fermentation. HPLC analysis of fucose (an active ingredient of seaweed) was also performed and a standard method for solvent conditions was newly established. This study suggests that the composite of algae extract has potentials to be used as anti-oxidant and whitening agents in cosmetics.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.74-79
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to analyze the chemical composition of 14 kinds of citrus oils and to test their biological activities. Citrus essential oils were obtained by steam distillation from immature fruits collected from Jeju Island and were analyzed using gas chromatograph (GC)-flame ionization detectors (FID) and GC-MS. Limonene (55.4% to 91.7%), myrcene (2.1% to 32.1%), ${\alpha}$-pinene (0.6% to 1.6%) and linalool (0.4% to 6.9%) were the major components in most citrus species. To evaluate in vitro antibacterial activity, all essential oils were tested against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. Nine out of fourteen citrus oils exhibited antibacterial activity against P. acnes, but not against S. epidermidis. The effects of the citrus oils on DPPH radical scavenging, superoxide radical anion scavenging, nitric oxide radical, and cytotoxicity were also assessed. Three essential citrus oils, Joadeung, Dongjunggyul, and Bujiwha, exhibited potent inhibitory effects on nitric oxide production. Two essential oils, Dongjunggyul and Joadeung, showed potent free radical scavenging activities in the DPPH assay. For future applications in cosmetic products, we also performed MTT assays in a human dermal fibroblast cell line. The majority of the essential oils showed no cytotoxicity. The results indicate that citrus essential oils can be useful natural agents for cosmetic application.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.79-104
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• 2003

Introducing to the market place, safe and effective product is an important responsibility of clinical investigators as well as regulatory agencies in all developed countries. Products claiming to improve skin wrinkles are no exceptions. To date, Renova(R) (all-trans retinoic acid), Avage(R) (tazarotene), and Botox(R) (botulinum toxin) are the only agents FDA approved to ameliorate wrinkles associated with photoaged skin in the USA. For all three, clinical evaluation of wrinkle severity was the primary endpoint required for the approval process. No sophisticated instrument measurements of wrinkles were required, nor used in the pivotal studies. The Division of Dermatologic & Dental Products of the US FDA (Director, Jonathan Wilkin, MD) is not against the use of mechanical instruments in assessing wrinkle severity. Its position on this issue however, remains that any such device must be grounded in patients' or product users' perspective, which means that the evaluation instrument must be clinically relevant and clinically perceptible. Sophisticated devices that can detect minimal improvement, but imperceptible to the users are considered useless in the eyes of the US FDA. Two instruments that have been tried in some antiwrinkle studies in the USA are silicone replicas and Primos. Despite their sophistications, they have clear limitations; thus have never replaced clinical evaluations in these studies. At most, they have served as secondary measures to provide corroborative data on the clinical efficacy of antiwrinkle products. For the foreseeable future, at least in the USA, careful clinical assessment of wrinkles will continue to serve as the critical benchmark to determine whether an antiwrinkle product has enough efficacy to benefit its users. We must not lose sight of the fact that sophisticated devices are only to serve in generating supportive evidence, and not the primary evidence, in any clinical studies.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.275-282
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• 2011

Novel whitening agents were prepared using peptide-Natural origin compound derivatives. The peptide could be an antagonist of MC1R and Natural origin compound were well-known material as a Tyrosinase inhibitor. We also suggest the new assay method which could evaluate the Antagonistic effectiveness to MC1R using cAMP signaling pathway. 24 candidates were synthesized and 11 peptide derivatives were selected by cAMP assay method. To evaluate cAMP assay, the selected peptide derivatives were assayed to evaluate their melanogensis inhibitory activity. At this work, we could know that the sequences which include -RW- have a melanogensis inhibitory activity, and cAMP assy could use as a evaluating method of MC1R antagonist. But, to evaluate the whitening activity of some material, cross-checking with melanin inhibitory assay method was recommended.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.117-123
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• 2009

Magnolia extract, prepared from the Chinese herb Magnolia officinalis, is known for its potent anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. In this report, we showed that Magnolia extract inhibits adipocyte differentiation, as evidenced by reduced triglyceride (TG) accumulation. Also, Magnolia extract increased hormone sensitive lipase (HSL) protein level, and decreased the adipogenic transcription factor peroxisome proliferator activated receptor (PPAR)-${\gamma}$ protein and their corresponding mRNA. Our results suggest a potential apllication of Magnolia extract as anti-obesity agents inhibits adipocyte differentiation through the down-regulation of adipogenic transcription factors and other adipocyte-specific genes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.321-327
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• 2017

This study was carried out to develop a stable plant-derived natural sunscreen (BHC-S) that replaces the artificially synthesized organic sunscreen agents. The natural sunscreen (BHC-S), which is composed of peanut extract, Centella asiatica extract, and Ecklonia stolonifera extract, has the same level of ultraviolet shielding effect as PARSOL MCX-XR (OMC), which is a synthetic sunscreen. and has safety against skin. MultiFunctional effect such as and anti-wrinkle improvement. Thus, it can be used as raw material for natural cosmetics for ultraviolet ray blocking, and anti-aging.