Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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STUDIES OF ACNE TREATMENT USING ORIENTAL HERBS(New Approach to select anti-acne agents)

  • Nam, Chun-Ja (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Han, Y.G. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Kim, S.J. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Kim, J.H. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Oh, J.Y. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Park, J.W. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center) ;
  • Lee, H. (Skin & Applied Research Institute, Pacific R&D Center)
  • Published : 1999.12.31
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Abstract

Acne vulgaris, the most common skin disease. can be formed as only a few comedons or severe inflammatory lesions. The pathogenesis of acne involves various factors; excessive androgen, excessive sebum production, abnormal alteration of follicular epithelium, proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and inflammation. We investigated acne therapy using oriental herbs described in the Korean traditional medical book(Dong-ui-bo-gam). Oriental herbs(Angelica daurica, Arctium lappa, Coptidis rhizoma, and Glycyrrhiza glabra) were chosen based on their respective property of sebum control, anti-inflammatory activity, and anti-bacterial activity. We examined the effect of acne treatment, in terms of chemotactic inhibition, lipogenesis inhibition, and anti-bacterial activity for P. acnes. 1. Neutrophil chemotaxis assay; P. acnes secrete chemotactic factors and other pro-inflammatory extracellular products. Neutrophil chemotactic activity of P. acnes was measured by 48-well chemotaxis method. Angelica daurica clearly suppressed chemotactic activity of P. acnes. 2. Using sebaceous gland of hamster ear lipogenesis assay; Sebaceous lipogenesis was measured using ear biopsies by incubation or $C^{14}$-acetate in culture media. The $C^{14}$-labeled lipids were extracted and determined by liquid scintilation counting. Coptidis rhizoma markedly inhibited sebum production. 3. Anti-bacterial assay for P. acnes(MIC test); Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity. P. acnes did not develop resistance against Glycyrrhiza glabra. Retinoids are effectively to inhibit sebum production and regulate follicular keratinization process, with little anti-inflammatory activity. Angelica daurica suppressed neutrophil chemotaxis, Coptidis rhizoma inhibited sebum production, and Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity against P. acnes. A combined formulation of Angelica daurica, Coptidis rhizoma. and Glycyrrhiza glabra is expected to provide effective acne treatment.

Keywords

References

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