• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.152-163
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to experimentally analyze the relationship between structural characteristics of cotton fabrics and their cool-and-warm felling in order to develop more comfortable fabrics. Comfort in textile products has been emphasized as consumers preferred performance to fashion of clothing. Thermal comfort of clothing is a basic parameter of the comfort sensation which is usually represented by the cool-and-warm feeling felt by human skin. Cloo-and-warm feeling is perceived by the heat flux which transfers heat energy stored in an object to skin. We feel warm (cool) if the temperature of nerve extremity in skin ascends (descends). As cool-and-warm feeling determines the comfort sensation of clothing, it is important to develop new comfort fabrics. Although considerable works have been made on the body, clothing, and environment, there has been no research study on the structural characteristics of fabrics and their cool and warm feeling. Cool-and-warm feeling is closely related to the transient heat transfer property. This research study used the cotton fabrics manufactured in Korea as sample and measured $q_{max}$ value with thermal property measuring instrument (Thermo-Labo II type). $q_{max}$ values estimated by polynomial regression equation were compared with those observed in this study. This study also identified the structural parameters of cotton fabrics for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows: 1) As the thickness, porosity and air permeability of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value decreases. 2) As the fabric count and over factor of cotton fabrics increase, $q_{max}$ value also increases. 3) $q_{max}$ values have been estimated by simple and polynomial regression equations developed in this study. Regression curves which have been plotted by polynomial regression equations also provided with the range of structural parameters for a specific range of $q_{max}$ values of cotton fabrics. This study would be significant in that it has identified the structural Parameters for the cool-and-warm feeling of cotton fabric at $65\%$ relative humidity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.326-332
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• 2014

To develop cool touch feeling fabrics for summer clothing material, it was manufactured several compositions of woven fabrics, having rayon multi-filament yarn (non-twisted) as warp and various kinds of yarn, such as viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (twisted), tencel$^{(R)}$ spun yarn, PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn, and PET based rayon-like yarn, as weft. After preparing the fabrics, basic properties of the fabrics were investigated, such as air-permeability, tensile strength, absorption rate, drying rate, etc. Also, surface warm / cool sensations of the woven fabrics were assessed by Qmax Warm / Cool Touch Tester. It was observed that the fabrics composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn (weft) showed excellent surface cool touch sensation-the highest Qmax value. This is because the fabric having flat shaped PET high absorbance quick dry filament shows the largest contact area with Qmax measuring plate. And, the fabric also showed superior high absorbance and quick dry property as expected. In addition, we treated phase change material (PCM) on the surface of the fabric composed of viscose rayon multi-filament yarn (warp) and PET high absorbance quick dry filament yarn(weft) to improve the cool touch feeling. However, the surface cool touch feeling was impaired by resin treated with PCM during the finishing process.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.53-59
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• 2002

The surface fibers on the fabric is one of decisive factors which affects human sensory evaluation as well as heat and moisture transfer characteristics. In this study the length and distribution of surface fibers that are extruded from the fabric surface of the wool/wool blend fabrics (14 wool fabrics and 10 wool blend fabrics) and its contribution to subjective sensory evaluation were investigated. In order to quantify the length and distribution of surface fibers, image analysis and wavelet transform technique were introduced. Instant warm-cool feeling of touch, Q$\_$max/, and contact area were also measured and related to the quantified surface fibers. To figure out the effect of surface characteristics on sensory evaluation, human sensory responses to three adjectives which represent surface characteristics and warm-cool feeling of touch were obtained and analyzed. The relationship between the quantified surface fibers assessed by wavelet energy and both warm-cool reeling of touch, Qmax, and human sensory response were discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.816-825
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• 1998

This study surveys the thermal property and air permeability to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties such as weft yarn count, t.p.m. and density. The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25% and 30%. The warm/cool feeling(Qmax), thermal insulating value(T.I.V.) and thermal conductivity(K) were measured by KES-F7 System and discussed in relation with the weight reduction rate, weft yarn linear density, t.p.m., weft density of fabric and weave structure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.373-380
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• 1991

In the previous paper, we already discussed about the factor effected upon the initial maximum value of heat flux ($q_{max}$). Thermal conductivity, thermal transmittance and surface air cavity of wool fabrics were examind and their correlation to the $q_{max}$ was also studied In this study, the other factor was examined which had on effect upon the qmaf of an objective measure of warm/cool feeling. It was studied that the qmax correlated to the surface sturucture parameters (compression, friction, smoothness, roughness, thickness and weight). It was concerned to the degree of warm/cool feeling when we touched hand on fabrics. We selected twenty sorts of pure wool woven fabrics for men's fall-winter cloth (all Wool). The conclusions are as follow; 1. There was a good correlation between the $q_{max}$ and the compression property. 2. The surface structure parameters, smoothness and roughness, made various effects on the $q_{max}$, when the samples touched on a thin copper plate. So, there was not a certain correla-tion to the $q_{max}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.132-137
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• 2000

This study was carried out to evaluate the distribution of mechanical and thermal properties of 14 sorts of tencel fabrics. Three kinds of cellulosic fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/tencel 50/50% and rayon 100% were used to compare with tencel fabrics. Furthermore, for the comparison of thermal properties, these fabrics were repeatedly washed 1, 3, 5, 10, 15 and 20 times respectively. The mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system and Thereto Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties of warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling($q_{max}$). The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical and thermal properties. Tencel showed sufficient ability to recover from bending deformation and drapability comparing with other cellulosic fabrics and had a silhouette which goes along with the body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.259-263
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• 1999

This study was carried out to investigate the changes of thermal properties such as warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling of commercial dress shirts by repeated washing and drying by sun and dryer. Three kinds of fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% were repeatedly washed and dried, and then used as specimen. Thermo Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties. At the same time, structural properties such as thickness, weight, bulk density, porosity, moisture vapor permeability and air permeability were analysed.