• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.16-32
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• 2016

This study examines music visualization characteristics appearing in Giorgio Armani's S/S 2000 Collection and Genny's F/W 2000 Collection, which elicited and reinterpreted the characteristics through an analysis of Kandinsky's paintings. Study results are as follows. First, music visualization characteristics were extracted through an analysis of Kandinsky's works to examine music visualization that appears in contemporary fashion. Further analysis of Kandinsky's works were done in regards to music visualization (Impression, Improvisation, and Composition), and music visualization characteristics were categorized into 'spatial element', 'mobility', and 'overlap'. Second, the analysis of contemporary fashion with a spatial component showed that space was often clothed through color contrasts that highlighted concise and playful effects. Emphasis on line and three-dimensional effects were shown by overlapping lines and costume pleats with exposure expressed by semiotic forms and fabric character4istics. Third, the analysis of clothes that express mobility shows that they commonly express mobility through free color arrangements and a shading of colors with playfulness. The effects of emphasis, uniformity, and exposure were shown through the gloss and transformation of fabric that emphasized fabric characteristics; in addition, the effect of simplicity, three-dimensionality, and uniformity were expressed by adopting the forms of geometric shapes. Fourth, the analysis of clothes that manifest the overlap showed a predominant overlapping of colors and fabric. The esthetic effects of playfulness and exposure were emphasized through colors, shapes, and lines.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.583-597
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to classify and analyze the deconstruction phenomena expressed in contemporary knit fashion design, and to analyze the inner meaning of deconstruction based on certain characteristics. As a method of study, literature data for theoretical backgrounds, prior studies, and internet data were analyzed. The scope of this study was restricted to knitwear published in the world's four major collections (Milan, Paris, New York and London) from 2014 F/W to 2018 S/S. Based on prior studies, four concepts of deconstruction were derived: "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$", "Intertextuality", "Intermeaning of Meaning", "Dis De Phenomenon". The results of the study were as follows: first, "$Diff{\acute{e}}reance$" refers to a transcendence of time and space. These expressions are discursive, unrealistic, and convey freedom through intent that deviates from rules and norms. Second, "Intertextuality" indicates a mixture of different texts, such as styles, materials, and items. These expressions deliver novelty with amusement, and can be entertaining depending on audience expectations. Third, "Intermeaning of Meaning" is accidental category - depending on how the wearer wears the clothing. -; accordingly, free and spontaneous creativity is an emerging trend in fashion. Fourth, the clothing was expressed in deformed and distorted form by the construction and destruction of the structure, a technique we describe as the "Dis De Phenomenon". In this concept, the sense of free design of young emotion appears along with the sense of purity and shock due to intentional inconsistency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.69-82
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• 1999

This study is focused on the aesthetic application of traditional Korean dress(Items) to the contemporary fashion design. The results are as follows: (1) Each traditional dresses have revealed their aesthetic characteristics according to the periods or time. (2) The dresses of certain period figures and items had been limited in use in fashion design today. (3) The most favoured dresses adapted in fashion design were Chosun costume and female top items were the most preferred in use. (4) The colors applied to the fashion design were also limited. The bright and strong color groups were the most popular colors among fashion designers for their works. White which stands for the image of korean and their dresses were also preferred in use. Therfore experts in various arena of fashion business have to keep in mind following problems:(1) They have to study traditional dresses to enhance their historic knowledges and appreciate their aesthetic beauties (2) Various kinds of dresses from many periods items should be tried to adapt in fashion design by the designers. (3) Various male attires also should be adapted in fashion design. (4) various methodologies are recommended to apply in fashion design (5) fashion moods should be examined to make the krean fashion design rich The plastic characteristics of Korean traditional dresses could be interpreted as a tunnel to show the esprit of Korean and the aesthetic of Korean dresses through the works of fashion design for the international fashion markets or societies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.156-168
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• 2007

Brands started to manufacture consumer-oriented products and look for active methods to appeal their brands to consumers, in the 1990s. As a result, actively adopting graphic design to clothing designs has recently become an important strategy among others. Graphic design has important significance in contemporary fashion design in the aspect that it has expanded the range of expressive methods by bringing over expressive methods of visual design, and has led to an increase in sales due to consumer satisfaction, but it has been vaguely handled together with textiles design, and research on the topic has been insufficient. Therefore this study aimed to clearly define the idea of graphic design based on documentary research, and analyze applying case and formative features of graphic design expressed in clothing, through case studies from 2004 to 2006, and derive the trends of graphic design expressed in contemporary fashion design. The results of this study are as follows. The common characteristics of images that reflect recent graphic design trends in fashion design are hand writing and irregular composition, and images that actively pursued these pointes were retro and craft images, and modern and sporty images reflected these graphic design trends in a comparatively passive manner. It is important to maintain style differentiation rather than indiscreetly adopting graphic design trends to clothing, and to appropriately apply trend characteristics of fashion design and other design areas. Expressive methods of design are expected to expand through appropriate application and development of graphic design, and can potentially provide a new solution to brand differentiation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.113-127
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• 2008

Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.3
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

This paper reports on a study of the morphological design trends and characteristics of vests in contemporary fashion for women. A review of the relevant literature was conducted, and visual images found in various collections displayed in local and foreign papers and on internet web sites over the period 2001 to 2009 were analysed. The analysis of the vest designs showed that 78% had no collar, 41.8% were waist-length, 70.5% used general fabrics of various colors and patterns, 98.2% had a single fastening system, 69.8% used buttons for fastening, and 67.4% were intended to be worn as outwear over inner wear items such as a shirt or blouse. The trends in vest design were characterized by the expression of an androgynous image, by creative diversity and by an escape from traditional forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.232-243
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• 2023

The boundaries between fashion and contemporary art are increasingly blurred showing their interchangeability. This study examines Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's concept of dispossession to analyze expressions of gender, racial, and class identity in Martine Gutierrez's representative work, Indigenous Woman. First, gender expressions in Indigenous Woman emphasize the possibility of performative and practical gender as an image that rejects norms that grant authority according to the possession of innate body parts. Second, racial identity is expressed through resistance to the ideology of whiteness and imperialism reinforced by fashion media. The author aims to overcome normative stereotypes through the media she creates, which reveals her identity as a person of color. Third, class identity is represented through stereotypes that limit the lives of indigenous people to primitive and natural things. The author reveals a critical awareness of the hierarchical structure and cultural appropriation these stereotypes have created. This study analyzed contemporary artworks using fashion media through the concept of dispossession. The significance of this study lies in raising a critical awareness of the practices that diffuse minority identities in fashion media.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.796-809
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• 2007

The viewpoint of growth pursuit is changed to that of life quality's and happiness' pursuit by modern people. Modern people in digital environment, tired of fast-changing and oppressive daily life, prefer well-being trend providing tranquility and relaxation. Well-being is related to digital, because negative influences of digital lead human-oriented, environment-friendly well-being design. Therefore the purpose of this study is to research and analyze the relation of well-being fashion design and digital environment through case study in contemporary well-being fashion design. The results of this study are as follows: 1. This study shows that the attributes of digital environment make up function-intensive, interactivity, mobility & nomad, human & emotion-oriented and environment-friendly. And this study shows the design characteristics of digital environment consist of function-intensive design by digital convergence, open structure design for interactivity, modular design for mobility & nomad, emotion-oriented & multi-sensory design and environment- friendly design. 2. Function-intensive design in modem well-being fashion composed of vogue of caports style(casual+sports), practical use of multi-functional new-healthy textiles, and popularity of many style's mixture at once. Open structure design consist of wrapover design, use of transparent materials. Modular design are layered styling, practical use of zipper and velcro. Emotion-oriented & multi-sensory design are constitute of fad of wrinkle materials, application of bright & vivid tone, personal color and family look. Environment-friendly design in contemporary well-being fashion are comprised in use of natural color, re-advent of natural floral motif and eco-design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.253-266
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• 2019

Street fashion style expressing youth culture has become mainstream in the fashion field. Russian fashion designers who experienced the post-Soviet era in their youth have gained attention for the freshness of a youth inspiration. This study selected two representative young Russian fashion designers, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Tigran Avetisyan and analyzed their fashion works concerning characteristics of youth culture. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subject of the case studies were Gosha Rubchinskiy's fashion works from 2015 S/ S to 2018 F/W and Tigran Avetisyan's fashion works from the 2012 CSM Fashion Show to 2018 F/W. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, their fashion works express 'resistance' against the older generation and society. Second, we can also see the 'conformity' of the use to make a strong cohesion. Third, the fashion works symbolized an 'expression of individuality' of the youth. Fourth, the fashion works express an 'importance of practicality' related to the values of the young who prefer to high cost-effectiveness goods. Last, there is a 'remixed culture' in the Russian designer's works where a previously mixed culture mixes with others in creating a completely new one. This study analyzed the characteristics of a contemporary youth culture that influenced the world fashion market and contributed to understanding that the young generation is active in all aspects of society.