• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.828-837
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• 2015

The results of the analysis of dyed rayon fabrics treated with persimmon juice by padding are as follows. Rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by a padding mangle for the development of dyeability. The merits of padding-based dyeing were easier color reproduction (versus traditional hand dyeing) of hard to obtain colors and color fastness to light and laundering. The add on weight increased with the number of padding times, and the color of the dyed fabrics had red-yellow colors with low brightness and high chromatic colors. Properties of fabrics treated with persimmon juice were: $2^{nd}$ level of light resistance, $4^{th}-5^{th}$ perspiration fastness levels, rubbing fastness, and $3^{rd}-4^{th}$ washing fastness levels. Dyed fabrics exposed to UV light have a deep yellow-red color that increased lightness and darken when exposed to sunlight. Rayon fabrics of a treated premordant indicated strong yellow colors, especially fabrics with Fe mordant indicated greenish red-yellow colors. The direction of the weft and warp increased and improved water-repellent qualities that increased with the number of dyeing padding times and persimmon juice; however, there was less anti-crease resistance. In addition, fabrics had good antibacterial activity and deodorization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.53-70
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• 1996

The inspiration and its application in fashion design is considered as one of the important factors in boosting the fashion arena. Many inspirations are adapted in fashion de-sign and they make the fashion design unique and characteristic. In this study many fashion designs are analyzed to find what kind of inspirations were adapted and utilized for the fashion design in reality. The nature historic costumes ethcin costumes arts sciences literature music sports were revealed as the sources of fashion inspiration.l The concerns on the environments movies and dramas could provide inspirations in fashion as well. Several contents or steps were studied to provide the one of the example of appli-cations as follows: 1. The works of Marc Chagall were analized to figure out and several plastic characteristics from his works were revealed such as fantastic strong colors unreal animal pattern or their details his wife and friends various divisions of the surface and so on. These attributes had been favored in depiction of his works to ex-press his home town or nostalgia. 2. '90s fashion designs inspired by the works of Chagall were analized to find out the meth-odology or the process of designs. The same Chagall colors were used in design and similar pattern were expressed through beaded work or printing jobs. The surface designs such as printing were the most prefered method in adapting the inspirations. 3. The plastic characteristics of the work of Chagall were attempted in clothing design and construction. The color combination patterns which remind the animals the surface divisions were used in design ot practive the methodologies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.4 s.10
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• pp.7-15
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• 2006

Japan's modern fashion, which already became distinguished in the world fashion market, creates originality by identifying its own color as well as shape and details from its tradition. The purpose of this study was to draw the results of examining the perceived meanings of color revealed in the culture, arts and clothing color of Heian period in Japan and searching them in contemporary Japanese fashion. The scope of study was the perceived meaning of color in Heian period and Japanese contemporary fashion. In the methodologies, the literature and the empirical study focused on Heian's culture, including art history, ethnology, and the history of clothing and the contemporary fashion collection. Japan's original middle colors and intermediate colors began to be created in Heian period. The color aesthetic characteristics of Heian period appeared the beauty of compound color, layered color, overlapped color in Japanese contemporary fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.968-973
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• 2009

To get a variety of colors on silk fabrics with natural dyes, mordanting and combination dyeing were carried out. Gromwell, sappan wood, safflower were used as the three primary colors for combination dyeing. Metal compounds containing alum and iron were used as mordanting agents. In combination dyeing of safflower and sappan wood, safflower and gromwell, gromwell and sappan wood, various colors were obtained according to the content of dyes used. Safflower/sappan wood dyeing showed different colors between yellow red and red purple of Munsell color circle such a YR, R and RP. And safflower/gromwell dyeing showed R, RP, P and PB Munsell color circle and then gromwell/sappan wood showed R, RP and P. As the result of these experiments, wide range of colors (YR-R-RP-P-PB-B) were obtained according to various mixing portion of safflower, gromwell, sappan wood, dyebath pH and repetition dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.86-98
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• 2008

This study is purposed to determine the correlation between contemporary fashion and game characters' clothes and to analyze the formative property of the game characters' clothes expressed in the contemporary fashion. The temporal scope of this study is from 2004 to 2007 based on general online game ranks, while the game type is limited to 3D-online role playing game. The most popular clothes of game characters are analyzed and found to have imaginary, sensualistic, and cross-sexual features. These are also expressed as Cyber resistance image, Femme fatal image and Asexual image in the contemporary fashion. Firstly, the Cyber resistance image in the recent fashion is shown as belligerent, destructive and surrealistic image in contemporary fashion. Secondly, the Femme fatal image represents bewitching, brutal and narcissistic image with sleek materials and glowing colors in contemporary fashion. Thirdly, the Asexual image means the concept of sex as the neuter gender. Especially, this image has been introduced by simple and straight silhouette, black, silver, khaki colors in fashion. Accordingly, the clothes of game characters with the popularity and formative property have close correlation with contemporary fashion even if they do not pursue for practical creativity. In this respect, they can consolidate the position as a new fashion trend if they are developed with various design ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.33-46
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate color planning method for apparel fashion de-sign and to present the method of analysis of green color. Theoretical backgrouds of color planning for fashion design were scrutinized by documentary studies Fashion color planning has been developed through 4 steps: analysis of color environment analysis of color psy-chology presentation of coordination appli-cation to fashion design. Green color environment consisted of mar-ket informations and forecast informations The former were collected by color samples which were used for women's apparel of national brands from '93 spring/summer to '96 spring/summer and the latter were analyzed by fashion forecasting books. Green color psy-chology was investigated through the docu-mentary studiess. image of green color and these expressed in fashion were revealed through documentary studies. The results of this study were as follow: 1. 117 green color samples were collected from domestic womens brand. The character-istic of samples were the yellow green in hue and pale light bright in tone. forecast infor-mation was collected through fashion forecasting books from abroad and adaption of forecast information was investigated by mak-ing a comparison forecasting information be-tween market information. In consequence national market colors reflected the forecast information in concurrence with the character-istic colors of national women's apparel. 2. Affirmative images of green were nature youth health and abundance and negative images were extraordinary misfortune wind-fall. in these images nature youth and health were mostly used in fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.679-685
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s and the images of the Power suit styles shown in 08/09 F/W, 09 S/S, 09/10 F/W and 10 S/S collections. The results of this study are as follows: 1) The aesthetic values of the Power suit in 1980s are authority, sexuality and luxury to express the power, body and wealth. Authority is represented in wide and hard shoulders with pads and dark colors with stripe and no patterns. Sexuality is represented in tight waist jacket and tight skirt. Luxury is represented in luxurious fabrics and handicraft ornaments. 2) The Power suit styles shown in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, avant-garde and ethnic images: Classic images appeared in jacket which exaggerated shoulders with pads, mini skirt, tapered pants, dark colors with stripe and check patterns, rough materials and a waist belt. Romantic images are represented in the skirt with an asymmetric hem, pastel and splendid colors, lace and silk, romantic details made with gathers and flounces and fantastic accessories. Avant-garde images appeared in the deformed jacket, unperfected skirt, special materials and exaggerated accessories. Ethnic images are represented in big silhouette forms with wide shoulders jacket and wide pants, ethnic patterns, gold, orange and other vivid colors and ethnic accessories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.8
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to find out the creative visual expression in fashion illustration through the previous general theories on creativity. The creative visual expression, in fashion illustration works, can be summarized eight categories as follows. There are 'maximization & minimization'to emphasize the illustrators'emotions and contemporary trends, proposed specially in body expression, 'inversion' seen as the forms of contra-perspective, upside-down, rearrangement of parts, diverted process, etc, 'Unusual uses'to add the effect of caricature, parody, and humor to the fashion illustration works, 'extraordinary connection'seen as the shapes of various combination between animals, plants, stuff, and man, 'concealment & elimination'used frequently in creative visual expression includes a deformed human body, an abstracted human body, an extreme value contrast, simple colors, and dress in silhouette, 'association'seen in various methods; comparing the similar shapes, describing a certain situation or details for analogizing the whole, ‘illusion’ expressed in surreal, mysterious, and fairy depictions and 'substitution'to imitate the composition and colors of masterpieces, copy the parts.