• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.301-307
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• 2000

Silk fabrics were dyed with Gromwell extracts after mordanted with various mordants and their dyeability, antibacterial.deodorization activity, fastness and change of surface color were investigated. Silk fabrics were mordanted at $60^\circ{C}$ for 30 minutes and subsequently dyed at $40^\circ{C}$ for 30 minutes. The dye-uptake of silk fabrics increased with the concentration of Gromwell extracts and mordants. Surface color of silk fabrics changed differently according to the type of mordants used. Antibacterial and deodorization activities of silk fabrics dyed with Gromwell extracts were good. Cu mordant was more effective for deodorization activity. Dyed silk fabrics showed poor light fastness but good dry-cleaning and perspiration fastness.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2018

This study was performed in order to suggest useful data for color planning of eco-friendly and sensible fashion products. Silk fabrics were dyed in combination with natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kinds of mordants after combination dyeing. Then, their colorimetric properties were evaluated. From these composite-dyed silk fabrics, color sensibilities and color preferences of green yellow (GY) color were evaluated among the female university students, and thus, the influences of colorimetric properties and color sensibilities on color preferences were analyzed. When the silk fabrics were dyed in the combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated without mordants, they turned green color when indigo 10 g/L was used, and blue-green when indigo 20 g/L was added. And when they were dyed in combination of natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and were treated with four kind of mordants after combination dyeing, they turned GY color in almost all cases. The color sensibilities of the GY silk fabrics with the combination dyeing of indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, were classified into three factors: pleasantness, gracefulness, and comfort. Color sensibility factors showed significant differences according to the concentration of indigo and the kinds of mordants. There were almost significant relationships between colorimetric properties and color sensibilities factors of compositely dyed GY silk fabrics. The color preferences of the GY fabrics, which were dyed in the combination of using natural indigo and Japanese pagoda tree and four kinds of mordants, were found to be predicted by the color sensibility in a regression model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.473-484
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• 2002

The physical characteristics of silk and wool fabrics dyed with OFS-FR and SM-FR were examined and color difference and colorfastness of these fabrics were analyzed. The results are as follows; 1. The thickness, density and weight of both dyed fabrics were increased than those of undyed fabrics independently of dyeing materials and mordants. 2. Air permeability of all the silk samples increased than that of undyed silk, on the other hand, air permeability of most of wool samples decreased than that of undyed wool. 3. Thermal insulation values of silk samples were not consistent with dyeing conditions, but those of wool samples increased than those of undyed fabrics regardless of dyeing materials and mordants. 4. Color difference was clear between OFS-FR and SM-FR dyed fabrics. The colors dyed with OFS-FR-Al and OFS-FR-chitos an showed violet, those dyed with SM-FR displayed yellowish, in addition to in case of wool, dyed with OFS-FR-Cu the color was greenish yellow, in case of silk dyed with SM-FR-Cu that was yellowish red. 5. Sense of silk fabrics by sensory-test was soft and smooth. Feeling of colors in silk fabrics was wick, warm and slightly brilliant. In case wool, sense of dyed fabrics was slightly soft and slightly rough. Feeling of colors in wool fabrics was warm but not elegant. Therefore the result of sensory-test in silk might be better than that of in wool. 6. Colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspirations was good, but that to washing and sunlight was not fine.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.51-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to check color change depending on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics was dyed with gromwell and to investigate mordant effect when synthetic tannin was used as a mordant. First, when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell, the change of color, brightness and chroma were examined by measuring K/S value, a, b value, L value and C value depending on dyeing condition. Second, color, brightness and chroma differences which appeared after mordanting with synthetic tannin were investigated and muti-functional mordanting effect was confirmed with dyeing fastness, antibiosis. As a result of color analysis of gromwell, it was proved that the main pigment of gromwell was shikonin. Color was red purple at pH 3 when silk fabrics were dyed with gromwell. But It became greenish and bluish as temperature rose and time passed by. And it grew reddish and yellowish as concentration level reached higher. The color became purple at pH 5 and purple blue at pH 7. Both at pH 5 and pH 7, it became greenish and yellowish, as temperature went up and time ran by. And it became reddish with concentration increasing. Brightness and chroma decreased with temperature and concentration increasing as well as time passing by. After mordanting with synthetic tannin, the color became less reddish at pH 3 and reddish-yellowish at pH 5 and pH 7. The brightness increased and the chroma decreased. At all pH, the color, the brightness and the chroma became similarly by synthetic tannin mordanting. Dyeing fastness of synthetic tannin mordanted fabric was higher than that of non-mordanted fabric. Especially, wet fastness at pH 3 improved from 1 grade before synthetic tannin mordanting to $3{\sim}4$ grade after tannin mordanting. Antibiosis was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.30-37
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• 1999

The extracts drawn out from Artemisia princeps by water was concentrated. Using this concentrate the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed, and they were measured with the K/S value, surface color and mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability and the antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows; 1. The K/S value of the silk fabric was much higher than that of the cotton fabric. And the color yield of the dyed silk fabric was most efficient for the premordanting method. 2. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. For the Cr-mordant among various mordants, the chroma produced clear and the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. 3. On the other hand the amount of absorbed mordant in the silk fabric was larger than that of the cotton fabric. And the Cu-mordant was most efficient. 4. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added. Cr-mordant improved best in all of the dry cleaning, wet cleaning and perspiration fastness. Iron and abrasion fastness showed over 4-5 grade regardless of any mordant. And light fastness was best in Cu-mordant. 5. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial activity in both of mordant treat silk and cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.3-12
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• 2001

The dyeing powder drawn out from Dryopteris crassirhizoma by water was concentrated. Using this powder, the silk and the cotton fabrics were dyed and they measured with the K/S value, surface color, mordant quantity in order to evaluate the dyeability, antimicrobial and deodorant properties. The colorant of Dryopteris crassirhizoma was proved flavonoids by FT-IR spectrum. The K/S values of silk were much higher than those of cotton, the color yield of the silk and cotton fabric were most efficient the postmordanting method. The surface colors on the dyed fabric depended heavily upon mordants used or mordanting methods. For all cases, the value of the dyed fabric was generally dark. The chroma produced clear for the Al-mordant of silk and the Cu-mordant of cotton in the 3% concentration of mordants, the color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The K/S values of cationized cotton were much higher than cotton. The color fastness was significantly improved when mordants were added, In the case of the light fastness, Fe and Cu-mordants improved more than 1 level. The Cu-mordant showed the greatest antimicrobial and deordarant activity on both of the silk and the cotton.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.124-134
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• 2018

This study examined the dyeing characteristics and spectrum of cotton and silk by using dyeing solution extracted from aronia. The value $L^{\ast}$ which indicates the brightness of cotton regardless of mordant increases with increasing pH from pH 3.5 to pH 10.5. The color difference value(${\Delta}E$) of the cotton was generally high in pH 3.5 regardless of mordant existence. The silk showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 3.5 dye solution as cotton did. On the other hand, the silk with mordant dyed showed the highest ${\Delta}E$ value in pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with Aronia solution turns out red in pH 3.5, blue in pH 7 and yellow in pH 10.5. This is because of the amino acid, one of the silk ingredients, combines with a part of anthocyanin to show blue. As the result of the spectrum measurement, the maximum absorption wavelength of Aronia solution was increased in the order of pH 10.5, pH 3.5 and pH 7, regardless of extraction temperature and mordant. The measurement results of color fastness to washing and color fastness to light are generally low. Therefore, there is a need for further study to improve color fatness in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.385-390
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• 1999

Dyeing properties of silk fabric with green tea colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as concentration pH dyeing temperature and time on dye uptakes and effect of mordants on color change and dye uptakes, And various colorfastnesses of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. Green tea colorants showed relatively good affinity to silk fabric and produced yellowish red color. Langmuir adsoption isotherm was obtained. Therefore it is considered that ionic bondings between colorants and silk fibers are formed. Mordants did not improve dye uptakes and affect color of dyed fabrics significantly. But mordanting adversely affected lightfastness of dyed fabrics. Regardless of mordanting colorfastness to perspiration especially in alkaline condition of dyed fabrics showed low rating compared with other colorfastness. It is concluded that mordanting is not necessary for silk dyeing with green tea colorants.