• 제목/요약/키워드: clothing-style

검색결과 1,573건 처리시간 0.024초

중국 및 몽고제국의 포제와 민족복에 나타난 ' 깃 (옷깃)'에 대한 연구 -13세기를 중심으로- (A Study on form of 'collar' in the China and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume -Focusing on 13th Century's-)

  • 김은주
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제19권
    • /
    • pp.209-240
    • /
    • 1992
  • The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

  • PDF

우리나라 성인여성(成人女性)의 브래지어 구매실태(購買實態)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) (A Study on the Purchashing Condition of Brassiere for Korean Women)

  • 김영숙;손희순
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제3권3호
    • /
    • pp.27-37
    • /
    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

  • PDF

밀양(密陽) 고법리(古法里) 고분벽화(古墳壁畵)에 나타난 복식(服飾) 연구(硏究) (The Study of Costume in a Mill Yang Kobumri Mural Painting)

  • 조오순;유주리
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제5권2호
    • /
    • pp.105-115
    • /
    • 2001
  • When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

  • PDF

소비자들의 대형마트 PB의류 구매행동에 관한 연구 (An study on purchasing activity of Private Brand clothing in large discount store)

  • 김영환;김판진
    • 유통과학연구
    • /
    • 제6권1호
    • /
    • pp.117-128
    • /
    • 2008
  • 본 연구는 소비자의 대형마트 PB(Private Brand,자사등록상품)의류 선택시 어떠한 요소들이 소비자들의 구매행동에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미치는가에 대한 상관관계를 규명하여 대형마트가 실시하는 가격설정, 판매, 진열, 판촉활동 시 고객의 요구를 정확히 파악하여, 효율적이고 효과적인 마케팅 활동이 이루어지기 위한 기초자료를 제공하는데 목적이 있다. 본 논문에서는 소비자들이 PB의류를 구매를 고려할 때 NB와 합리적으로 비교하여서 가격, 품질, 가치에 대한 지각을 한다는 측면에서 지각된 가격차이, 지각된 품질 및 실용성차이, 다른 목적으로 대형마트 방문시 지각된 충동구매 차이, 매장내 진열상품을 통한 지각된 구매차이 변수들에 대한 가설과 검증을 통해 실증적인 통계학적인 방법으로 연구 하였다. 본 연구 결과에 의하면 대형마트 소비자의 PB의류 구매시 주요 결정 요인으로 밝혀진 판매가격, 스타일에 대한 기존 NB브랜드의 트렌드 접목, 품질과 실용성이 있는 상품 개발과 마케팅 전략이 가장 우선적으로 효과적이라는 판단이다.

  • PDF

중.노년층 여성의 라이프스타일에 따른 외모 관리 효과에 관한 연구 - 피부 관리 효과를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Effect of Skin Management which is based on the Lifestyle of Middleaged and Old Age Women)

  • 임희경;최인려
    • 복식문화연구
    • /
    • 제18권4호
    • /
    • pp.670-686
    • /
    • 2010
  • This study aims at clarifying the action types of skin management which is base on age, marriage or not, family composition, school career, and income which are demographic variables centering around the lifestyle of middleaged and old age women. As for study method, this researcher executed literature study and questionnaire on adult women over 45 years old who dwell in Seoul and Kyounggi area. Survey period was Mar. 1, 2009 to Jun. 30. And, after distributing 1,000 copies of questionnaire, this researcher used effective 869 copies of questionnaire for analysis out of collected questionnaire, 895 copies. As for analysis method, this researcher executed DUNCAN test with factor analysis, reliability analysis, manin component analysis, K-average, multitude analysis, dispersion analysis and post verification by using SPSS 12.0 program. As for demographic feature for middle aged and old age women, 50~59 years old women were most by age as 302 persons(33.7%). It is emerging that spouse existence is very high as 674 persons(75.3%) in the answer for marriage or not, couple family to live with unmarried children is very high as 483 persons(54.0%) in the answer for family composition, leaving high school in mid-course or gradation of high school are very high as 356 persons(39.8%) in the answer for school career, income from 3 million Won under 4 million won is very high as 260 persons(29.1%) in the answer for monthly income of family members, and women to use under 50 thousand won is very high as 510 persons(57.0%) in the monthly average expense to be used for skin management. In this study, this researcher extracted total 5 factors (economic saving, displaying consumption, confidence inclination, centering around family, and leisure application) by executing factor analysis with 12 question items of lifestyle so as to grasp factor structure of lifestyle of middleaged and old age people, and whole explanatory variable quantity was 70.9%. This researcher named as economic saving type, diplaying consumption style, and type centering around leisure and family, after making multitude analysis about 5 factors analyzed by measuring lifestyle feature. As the result of structure analysis of question items of skin management(pursuit of skin management, life of skin management, and inclination of skin management), this researcher extracted total 3 factors, and whole explanatory variable quantity was 71.30%. Thus, it emerged that there is significant difference among groups.

식민지 시대 '가사교과서'에 관한 연구: 1930년대를 중심으로 (Analysis of Household Textbooks for MiddleㆍHigh School in Colonial Age)

  • 전미경
    • 한국가정과교육학회지
    • /
    • 제16권3호
    • /
    • pp.1-25
    • /
    • 2004
  • 식민지 시대 가사교과서는 일제의 가정개량론 정책을 이해하는 핵심이면서 근대가족, 가사노동, 가정주부 등을 이해하는데 매우 중요한 텍스트이다. 이에 본 연구는 1928년에서 1937턴 사이에 발간된 8권의 가사교과서를 분석하였다. 이 교과서는 고등여학교 '가사'시간에 사용되었다. 연구문제는 크게 교과서의 외형적 측면과 내용적 측면을 분석하는 것으로 양적연구와 질적연구를 병행하여 분석하였다. 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 교과서 저자들이 서론에서 밝히고 있는 가사교과서의 편제 방향은 '현대적', '최신식', '실질적', '응용적'으로 요약할 수 있으며 학생들의 이해를 도모하기 위하여 타 교과서와 비교되지 않을 정도로 많은 양의 그림과 사진 등의 삽화를 싣고 있었다. 2. 교과서 저자들은 가사과의 목적을 생환개량이라고 하였고, 가사시간에 습득한 지식과 규율을 통해 가정의 생활개량을 이루고자 하였다. 3. 가사교과서의 외형적 특징을 살펴보면, 본문은 일본어 세로쓰기로 되어 있으며, 크기는 국판(A5)이며 지질은 비교적 좋은 갱지인 중질지로 되어 있고, 명조체의 서체에 1단구성이며, 철사로 제본되어 있었다. 교과서 구성은 '겉표지-속표지-화보-머리말-목차-본문-부록-판권면-뒤표지'로 되어 있다. 4. 분석한 가사교과서는 모두 상하권으로 구성되었고. 교과내용은 크게 8영역으로 범주화 된다. 상권에는 의, 식, 주 영역이 하권에는 양로, 간호, 육아, 가정경제, 가정관리가 수록되어 있다. 5. 가사교과서는 집안일을 과학적ㆍ효율적ㆍ계획적으로 처리할 수 있는 '주부'를 만들고 있었고, 이러한 가사교과서는 근대적 성별역할을 고착시키는 효과를 낳고 있었다.충북에서 심성암의 비율이 가장 높고 그 다음으로 전북, 강원, 경기도의 순으로 심성암의 점유율이 감소하며 경남과 전남이 12%, 10%로 가장 낮은 점유율을 보인다. 이러한 현상은 보통 70∼80%의 심성암 점유율을 보이는 석재자원과는 매우 다른 형태이다. 전남지역은 화산암 골재가 50% 이상이며, 경남은 퇴적암 골재가 50% 이상을 점한다. 또한 변성암의 골재 사용비율은 경기도, 충남에서는 거의 50% 수준에 육박한다. 골재 석산은 경기도, 경북, 경남, 충북에서 거의 비슷한 비율로 분포하며 오히려 전북에서의 골재 석산의 수는 적은 편에 속한다. 강원도가 골재석산의 수가 가장 적은 편이다.지렁이와 토양 미생물에 아무런 영향을 미치지 않았고 토양 중 반감기도 15일 이내로 토양 중에 노출 시 매우 신속하게 분해 소실되어 그 위해성은 매우 낮은 수준인 것으로 판단되며, 작물 재배지에서 밭고랑의 잡초 방제를 위해 비산방지 기구를 이용하여 살포할 경우에는 재배 작물에 안전한 것으로 판단되었다.0.65% 첨가했을 때 WG, SGR, FE, PER이 가장 높았으나, 이전의 실험(Takeuchi, 1980)과 동일한 수준인 n-3와 n-6를 각각 0.5%씩 첨가한 실험구와는 유의적인 차이를 보이지 않았다. 이렇게 볼 때, 뱀장어 치어의 필수지방산은 LNA (n-3), LA (n-6)이고, 그 적정수준은 각각 0.35-0.5%, 0.5-0.65%임을 보여준다.George W, Bush)가 새로운 지도자로 취임하여 얼마 되지 않은 2001년 9월 11일 사상 초유로 본토에서 알 카에다 테러리스트 조직에 의해 공격받게 되었다. 뉴욕의 세계무역센터 빌딩 2개가 완전히

  • PDF

2D 핸드 드로운 애니메이션과 3D 컴퓨터 애니메이션에서의 액팅(acting) 스타일 비교 -클로즈-업을 이용한 감정표현을 중심으로- (Comparison of Acting Style Between 2D Hand-drawn Animation and 3D Computer Animation : Focused on Expression of Emotion by Using Close-up)

  • 문재철;김유미
    • 만화애니메이션 연구
    • /
    • 통권36호
    • /
    • pp.147-165
    • /
    • 2014
  • 2000년대 초를 거치면서 리얼리티 기반의 컴퓨터 그래픽스의 발달과 함께 서구를 중심으로 메인스트림 장편 애니메이션은 핸드 드로운(hand-drawn) 방식에서 점차 3D 컴퓨터 그래픽스 사용으로 변화됐다. 전통적으로 드로잉 방식의 애니메이션은 원, 삼각형 등 단순한 형태로 추상화 된 캐릭터들의 독특한 움직임에서 다른 예술장르와 차별화되는 미적 고유성을 찾았다면, 컴퓨터의 사용은 그 움직임의 자동화 방식과 리얼리티 지향의 그래픽으로 인해 그와 같은 애니메이션의 미적 특성을 저해한다는 논란이 있어왔다. 3D 컴퓨터 그래픽스의 제작방식의 도입은 애니메이션의 액팅 스타일에도 많은 변화를 가져왔다. 우선 실제 인간의 운동 메커니즘과 유사한 리깅(rigging)방식을 보면 3D 캐릭터의 액팅 스타일의 변화를 추적해 볼 수 있다. 핸드 드로운 애니메이션의 경우 캐릭터의 머리카락, 옷 등은 소품이 아닌 캐릭터의 일부로써 액팅을 했다면, 이제 머리카락, 옷 등은 시뮬레이션 되기 때문에 애니메이터에겐 오직 캐릭터의 몸만이 액팅 대리물이 됐다. 다음으로 애니메이션의 특징이라 할 '스트레치 앤 스쿼시(stretch and squash)'의 과장된 움직임을 매체의 특성과 관련해 생각해 보면, 한 프레임씩 수작업으로 그려지는 바, 미세하게 나타나는 선의 떨림은 피할 수 없다. 이 떨림은 묘한 미적효과로도 기능하지만 동시에 이를 감추기 위해 과장된 움직임은 필연적인 것일 수도 있다. 이와 다르게 수학적인 움직임 계산으로 매끄러운 움직임의 표현이 가능한 소프트웨어의 사용은 다소 이분화 된 액팅 방식을 보인다. 기본적으로 사람과 같은 움직임에서 과장 된 제스처로 액팅하거나 또는 정적이며 절제된 동작으로 감정을 연기한다. 또한 z축의 깊이 공간을 추가되고 캐릭터를 직관적으로 움직임일 수 있는 컴퓨터 그래픽의 편리성은, 뛰어난 드로잉 아티스트를 넘어 뛰어난 연기 지도자가 될 것을 애니메이터에게 요구 한다. 특히 캐릭터의 감정표현과 관련해 디지털 테크놀로지의 새로운 표현양식은 애니메이터에게 액팅의 유형과 관련 넓은 선택을 제공한다. 이는 애니메이션에 있어 동작 위주의 액팅 스타일에서 내면적 감정 표현으로의 연기 영역의 확장을 의미한다.

중국소수민족(中國少數民族)의 민족복식(民族服飾)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究)(II) - 운남성(雲南省)의 소수민족(少數民族)을 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on Traditional Costume of China's Minorities(II) - Centering Around Yunnan Province Minorities -)

  • 김영신;홍정민
    • 패션비즈니스
    • /
    • 제3권1호
    • /
    • pp.65-80
    • /
    • 1999
  • In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

  • PDF

의류제조업체의 패션 정보활동에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Fashion Information Activities of Clothing Manufactures)

  • 송미령
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제22권
    • /
    • pp.135-158
    • /
    • 1994
  • The fashion industry of today is closely re-lated with the information activity. This study investigates now they take advantage of the fashion information by analysing some related fields including fashion design. Furthormore this study identify the factor which makes the design activity distinctive and predict and fu-ture trend in design. The purposes of this study through analysis are : to help find the way to facilitate the fashion industry and to develop the fashion merchandising in order to activate the re-cession of manufacturers and to improve competitiveness in the world market and to contribute to the academic achievement in the study of fashion merchandising. In the experimental approach the tasks of research are as follows: Research 1: The application of fashion infor-mation is discussed in terms of process and level. Research 2: The differences of the fashion design activities are captured on the basis of the characteristics of manufactures and fashion specialists and fashion information ac-tivities. The factors are identified which pre-dict and discriminate the results of fashion de-sign activities. The questionaire and interview were conduc-ted among women's clothing manufactures in Seoul and their fashion specialists in charge of merchandise development. The methods of survey were designed on the basis of theories developed so far and on he advice from the social scientists and fashion specialists. the methods were corrected and complemented through the 1st and 2nd preliminary investigations before their application For data analysis cronbach's a coefficient fre-quency percentage average standard devi-ation pearson's correlation coefficient were calculated and t-test F-test(ANOVA) Duncan's multiple range test regression and Discriminant analysis were conducted. The results of analysis throughout the experimen-tal studies were as follows: 1. The analysis of fashion in formation (1) the present application of information a. The source of information : Both the foreign and the domestic information came mostly from fashion journals magazines newspapers and other periodicals, the main source of market information was collected from the survey of popular items in recent years the data about the life-style of customers and their tastes for wearing were widely used as the information about consumers. b. The applicaton of information : The most widely used information was about fabrics. The foreign information was prefered on the whole. The domestic problems pointed out in this investgation were that the domestic journals showed the lack of specialty and the special organizations for fashion informatino were in urgent need. (2) The research of fashion information a. The various processes and levels of in-formation activities: Among the process of collection analysis and distribution the collec-tion process showed a good acheivement whereas the distribution whereas the distribution didn't. In levels of the systematic activities the acceptance of support and the utility of supported instruments the first indicated a high degree whereas the second showed lowest. b. The correlationship among subvariables : There was a significant correlation between the collection and the analysis process. The systematic activities revealed close relation-ship with the analysis process and the accept-ance of support with the distribution process. The close correlation was found between the utility of supported instruments and the analy-sis process. 2. The analysis of the fashion design activities (1) No significant differences were found in the design activities when the characteristics of companies were compared only. (2) According to the characteristics of fashion specialists the one with age experi-ence and high income showed rather good achievement but no significant differences were captured among sex department in charge title academic background education in abroad and field experience (3) The fashion information activities were strongly correlated with the design achieve-ment : The analysis process and the system-atic activity level had a great influence on the design activities. (4) In order to examine which cha-racteristics in (1-3) made it possible to pre-dct and discriminate the achievement in de-sign activities the Discriminant analysis was carried out. The results were as follows: the fashion information activities showed the highest discriminant rate. Next came the in-come level experience and age in that order Those four variables discrimated 37 from 50 who showed great achievement in design area (74%) and 51 from 83 in low achievement group (81%) Thus the total discriminant rate was 77.5%.

  • PDF

당대 향문화 연구 (A Study on the Culture of Incense in the Period of T'ang)

  • 전혜숙;이애련
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
    • /
    • 제7권3호
    • /
    • pp.113-127
    • /
    • 2005
  • From the ancient times, incense was used for various usages including a means of beauty expression with flavor, a medicine for disease treatment and a device for religious event or ritual. The period of T'ang was the times when cultural and material exchanges with foreign countries were very actively made under the political openness of the Chinese nation. Here the exchanges were made mainly through inland trade, called Silk Road(絲綢之路) and marine trade routes, Incense Road(香料之路). This indicates that incense was one of the main items actively traded at that time. In addition, literatures of the T'ang period show that in the Chinese nation, a wide range of classes from the imperial family to the public used incense for many different purposes. This suggests that the culture of incense was deeply prevailed and very socially significant in T'ang. This study investigated social factors that promoted the incense culture of T'ang and the applications and types of incense widely used in the period of T'ang. First, influential religions and the openness of sex culture were main social factors that made incense culture flourish in the period of T'ang. Above all, two main religions of the Chinese nation, Buddhism and Taoism became secularized under political protection by the imperial family. As Buddhism was popularized, the Buddhist ritual of incense burning made a contribution to making public incense culture. Providing its doctrines of eternal youth and eternal life, Taoism necessarily used incense to form a Taoistic climate. The flourishment of the foresaid religion in T'ang added more fuel to that of incense culture in the Chinese nation. The openness of sex culture brought about the Inauguration of the empress, improvement in female position and free relationships between man and woman. It was accelerated by sexology as a method of eternal youth provided by Taoism. The opened culture also developed the culture of kibang where female entertainers called kinyeo consumed lots of incense for decoration and sexual desire stimulation. These open climates of T'ang society made a great contribution to making incense culture, especially for decoration, prevailed throughout the Chinese nation. Second, types of incense prevailed and widely used in the period of T'ang included olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香), myrrh Resinoid(沒藥), jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香), all of which were imported from foreign nations and had various applications. Specifically, olive incense, germander(廣藿香), olibnum(乳香) and myrrh Resinoid(沒藥) were used for religious purposes while, jia Xiang(甲香), clove(丁香) and Shen xian(沈香) for the purposes of religion and decoration. In conclusion, a number of social factors including political, religious and medical purposes and the openness of sex culture set fundamentals on which the culture of incense was extensively developed and established as a social trend in T'ang. In the Chinese nation, incense culture was not just an option for taste, but a part of life style social members needed to know. People of T'ang not only enjoyed incense mainly for purposes of religion, pleasure and make-up, but also had the wisdom to know various effects of incense, curiosity about such new things and the will to imitate and pursue alien culture, resultantly flourishing incense culture. Thus the culture of incense represented many social aspects of T'ang.

  • PDF