• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.25-43
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• 1994

앙드레 꾸레쥬는 자신의 디자인에 건축적 조형미를 표현한 대표적인 디자이너이다. 그의 디자인들은 라인 뿐 아니라 색채, 소재, 액세서리에 이르기까지 건물을 짓듯이 설계, 구성되어 있다. 최근 복식미의 건축적 조형성이 강조되고 있는 것을 감안할 때, 60년대 이미 선구자적인 역할을 하면서 자신의 건축가적인 기호를 유감없이 발휘해온 꾸레쥬를 연구한다는 것은 21세기를 향한 패션의 발전 측면에서 조금이라도 의미가 있지 않을까 생각한다. 본 연구에서는 앙드레 꾸fp쥬가 가장 활발히 활동했던 1974년에서 1970년까지 그의 디자인들을 집중 연구하였는데, 그의 패션디자인에 건축양식의 특징들이 어떻게 나타났는지에 연구의 초점을 맞추었다. 본 연구의 대상으로 사용된 실제의 옷 샘플들은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 예술박물관내의 Costume Institute Storage 에 있는 의복과 액세서리들을 직접, 관찰 , 분석한것이고 그 박의 사진들은 패션과 건축에 관한 서적과 잡지, 박물관내의 Slide Library , 그리고 Costume Institute Library Collection에서 발췌 , 비교 연구한 것이다. 일찍이 엔지니어링과 건축을 공부했던 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 50년대의 패션 디자이너의 거장 발렌시아가 밑에서 10년 넘게 일하다가 독립하였는데 그의 디자인 세계는 줄곧 여성들이 입고 편히 활동 할 수 있는 기능성을 강조하면서 단순하고 편안한 의복 구성에 중점을 두었다. 그리고 그는 이러한 자신의 패션 철학과 의복제작 과정들은 현대건물이 갖는 단순성, 기능성의 특징과 일치한다고 믿었다. A. 라인(Line) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 패션 디자인에서의 비레는 건축에서구조를 쌓아가는 것과 같은 것이라고 생각하고 옷에서의 기본 구성을 기하학적인 라인에 두었다. 그래서 그의 옷들은 A-라인, 사각형, 사다리꼴,,, 등의 분명한 실루엣을 이루고 있는데 이러한 기본라인을 뒷받침이라도 하듯 소매가 아주 짧거나 없는 것이 특징이다. 황금분할이 아닌 1 : 1 구성은 그가 독특하게 사용한 비례방법의 하나인데 그것은 자켓과 스커트의 길이비례, 요크와 몸판간의 면적비례 등에서 잘 나타나고 있다. 그리고 그는 , 의복구성의 비례를 강조하기 위해 사용한 강한 색상의 대비를 현대건물의 인테리어에 빛을 사용하는 것과 같은 이치라고 설명한다. B.색상(Color) 흰색은 그러한 그의 비례강조 의복에 가장 적절한 색으로 사용되었다. 그는 빨강, 오렌지, 녹색, 분홍등 강렬한 원색을 사용하였는데도 불구하고 흰색은 그의 건축양식 발상의 Ideo를 완성시키는 완전한 색이었다. 뜨거운 날씨에 흰색이 가장 기능적인 색인 것처럼 강한 원색 대비를 통해 비례강조를 하면서 동시에 그것을 뒷받침하는 가장 합리적이고 기능적인 색은 흰색이라고 믿었다. C. 소재 (Material) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 건물을 짓듯이 사람위에 옷을 건축한다고 믿었기 때문에 자연히 둔탁하고 딱딱한 소재가 많이 사용되었다. 비닐, 금속류, 시퀸스처럼 광택나고 투명한 재료 선호는 그 당시 현대 건축에서 선풍적으로 많이 사용되었던 유리, 금속류, 크리스탈 등 비치고 광택나는 건축재료와 일맥상통하는 것이다. 그러한 선국적인 내료 사용결과로 보여진 괴상하고 선정적인 그러면서도 아주 단순한 패션은 미래 지향적인 건축양식 구조의 " Simple", "Plain" 느낌과 정확하게 같은 것이다. 이상과 같이 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 옷을 디자인 했다기 보다는 건축했다. 주목할만한 점은 60년대 말 당시 발표되었던 그의 건축 구조적인 디자인의 특징들이 21세기를 앞둔 90년대에 다시 크게 유행하고있다는 점이다. 꾸레쥬 역시, 최근 자신의 디자인을 통해 건축적 조형미와 미래지향적 이미지를 더욱 강조하고 있는 것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인, 흰색을 비롯한 자연에 가까운 색을 중심으로 하되, 밝은 색조의 하이라이트, 플라스틱, 금속류와 같이 딱딱하고 광택나며 비치는 재료 사용,, 등등이 바로 그것이다. 그리고 이러한 그에 미래 지향적이고 조형적인 디자인들은 앞으로 어떻게 더 모험적인 모습으로 선보일지 우리 모두가 주목할만한 일인 것이다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.41-60
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were 1)to examine the conceptual structure of purchasing motives and information seeking of beauty service, 2)to find out the effects of purchasing motives on information seeking, and 3)to investigate the differences of purchasing motives and information seeking according to the demographic variables. The questionnaire was developed based on pretest and previous studies, and completed by 331 female consumers living in Seoul and Busan. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, Cronbach's a, regression analysis, Pearson's correlation, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results are as follows; First, factor analysis showed that the purchasing motives of beauty services consisted of five factors, such as Fashionableness, Impulse purchase, Special event, Mood & Recreation, and Practical purchasing needs. And the information seeking for beauty services consisted of four factors, such as Mass media, Opinions of neighbors, Experience & Observation, and Sales hook. Second, mass media was effected by fashionableness, impulse purchase, special event, and mood & recreation. Experience & Observation was effected by fashionableness, special event, and mood & recreation. Sales hook was effected by fashionableness, and impulse purchase. Third, the dimensions of purchasing motives and information seeking of beauty service were significantly different according to age, marriage or unmarried, and duties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.173-187
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.59-78
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• 2005

This study aims to know the deferences of hair fashion feeling group in accordance with hair styling activities, general characteristics, life styles objecting to capital area university women students and aid to hair fashion design. So the results are as belows. 1. Frequency Analysis of Categories A. Hair fashion feeling - Natural, sexy, romantic pretty, sophisticate, ethnic are 90% in total hair fashion feeling variables in sequence of frequency, so it can be said these are in vogue. B. Hair styling activities - The objections visit the hair salon once 1-2months, spend about 42,000 won a month, perform cut & wave perm to sentimental reasens & hair style changes, determine the hair style well coordinated in her image and managed easily. In her home, they manage her hair style 12 minutes a day, spend 17,000 won to buy hair aids, do hair blow dry or pin or pony tail mainly in the morning, scarcely use the hair styling aids but if use, essence or wax mainly. And the degree of interest to hair style is high. C. General Characteristics - The objections's average age is 21.1, residence is seoul kangnam 23.3%, seoul kangbook 18.4%, other capital areas 58.4%, the degree of education is university students 94.9%, graduated student 5.1%, marriage is married 96%, unmarried 2.8%, family who live with is married are mainly man & woman and living with father & mother in low in man's, unmarried are mainly live alone & nuclear family, personal expenses a month is 300,000 won in average, income of home is 4,000,000 won a month. D. Life style - The objections are not in interest of physical exercises but if are, do yoga & health, like drama & comedies program, watch TV or meet friend in leisure time, like balad & dance music, fashion magazine, meet friend in cafe or college. 2. Relationship of hair fashion feeling & other variables Using the $x^2$-test, level p<0.05, Hair styling activities(frequency of hair salon coming in and out, ordinary time representing hair style, preferred hair styling aids, the amount of hair style interest), General Characteristics(age), Life style(leisure time) variables are meaningful.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-120
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• 2009

This study was carried out in order to investigate color sensation and sensibility for yellowish natural dye fabrics and reddish ones and to establish prediction models for color sensibility factors of them by color sensation and the related physical measurements focusing on 40s middle-aged people. Eight fabric stimuli which were dyed with a variety of yellowish or reddish natural dyes was subjectively evaluated in terms of color sensation and sensibility by 40s aged participants. As results, three color sensibility factors including 'Active', 'Characteristic', and 'Relax' were extracted and they were examined in respect of their relationships with color sensation and physical color properties. Color sensibility factor 'Active', the dominant factor for the naturally dyed fabrics was explained by $L^*$ and sensation 'Deep' in its predictive model and a yellowish fabric dyed with 300% solution of armur cork unmordanted was perceived the strongest in the factor. Factor 'Characteristic' was predicted by both $a^*$ and sensation 'Light' and reddish natural dye fabrics tended to be felt more strongly for it. Color sensation 'Strong' was the only predictor for factor 'Relax' in that naturally dyed fabrics with lower values for the sensation seemed to show higher 'Relax' factor and a reddish fabric dyed with safflower 125% was the highest for the color sensibility factor. These results could be utilized to design color-sensible natural dye fabrics for middle-aged people.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.17-30
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• 2017

Lots of interdisciplinary studies for fusion of high technologes and the other areas of research had been tried in these days. In sports training area, high technologies like a vital sign sensor or an accelerometer were adopted as training tools to improve the performance of the sports players. The purpose of this study is finding the proper locations on the human body for attaching the motion sensors in order to develop a smart sportswear which could be helpful in training players. The rowing was selected as a subject sport as lots of movements of the joint on human body could be seen in rowing motions. The players of rowing could be devided into two weight divisions, the lightweight and the heavyweight. In this study, the change rates of distance between markers on human skin as the players moved were took on the back, the elbow, the hip and the knee area on human body by 3D motion capturing system. The distances between markers and the differences between the lightweight and heavyweight were analyzed. Finally, this study provided the guide lines for designing a motion sensing smart sportswear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.69-90
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.15-34
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• 2001

Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.