• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.548-559
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• 2001

This study is to understand Chang-ui construction of the middle Chosun Dynasty through the reconstruction of the blue Chang-ui which was excavated from General Parks tomb. The followings are the results of this study. There are 4 styles in excavated Chang-ui of middle Chosun Dynasty: Two styles seem to belong to the early 17th Century and the other, the late 17th century. The former is classified into 2 styles by the gender of the wearer, the latter is also classified into 2 styles by etiquette of clothing. We can assume that Chang-ui excavated from General Parks tomb was the womans clothing in early 17th century. This Chang-ui(II) differs from other Chang-ui(I) at two points. One is the construction of the trapezoid and triangle gussets on the side seam of clothing. The other is the construction of the narrow width of clothing(23cm). We have found that these two gussets could improve the active aspect of clothing and save materials. It is identified that the green tone was faded from the blue color of Chang-ui according to the calculation of the L*a*b.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the street style of women in Dalian, China. 1.185 females of Dalian central street have participated for the survey of this study. This study analyzes characterization of the street style and, classifies it's characteristics by age groups, clothing styles, and clothing items. There are three outcomes due to the aim of this study, 1. In age group classification, every age groups preferred casual style. Especially, young/young adults preferred mix-match styles with various designs. Distinctly, some of missy group preferred fashion trend and others preferred mature style. Also, the preference of missies/madame's group is obviously divided into two groups which pursues fashion trend and not. 2. In clothing style classification, casual styles such as mini-skirts, hot pants, tight t-shirts are mostly in tight silhouette. Also, the main colors are indigo-blue, white, black and point color, which are vivid tone and fluorescent colors. The characteristics of sport casual style contribute the upper garment and the lower garment, which forms a set. Classic styles are divided into two groups of typical formal dress and traditional Qipao dress. The colors of feminine style and textile printing are more sumptuous than other styles. 3. In clothing items classification, the points of the upper garments is the construction of designs, textile printing, ornament with beads, embroidery, and ribbon etc., exposed back. The lower garments like hot pants and mini-skirts are made of jeans. The cargo pants that is made of jean, cotton, luster textile. Also, one-piece dress has the characteristics of tiered and irregular hem line.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.89-100
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's personality(introvert-extrovert) and clothing styles. Subjects were 120 women in age from 18 to 31 years in Seoul. The stimuli of 7 clothing styles were used for visual evaluation. Three dimensions of visual evaluation were derived by falters analysis: elegance, activity individuality, and fashionability. The pants suit was estimated low in activity individuality and fashionability, but the hip-hop style high in activity individuality. The skirt suit was rated high in elegance, but the 8th length pants low in elegance. Personality had significant influences on the evaluation of activity individuality. Extrovert women perceived all stimuli to be more active and individual than introvert. Fashionability factor had an interaction effect by personality and clothing expenses. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group evaluated the stimuli to be more fashionable than the introvert in high clothing expenses group. There were significant differences in preference of all clothing styles according to personality. Extrovert women liked 8th length pants more than introvert. The introvert women in low clothing expenses group liked the skirt suit less than the extrovert.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.618-626
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• 2006

This research explored the actual conditions, problems and design preferences of dementia inpatient clothing. Data were collected by surveying 21 dementia hospitals and nursing care facilities and 87 caregivers and nurses of dementia hospitals. The collected data were analysed through frequency analysis, descriptive analysis and factor analysis. The results were as follows, First, the inpatient clothes of dementia hospitals were two-piece styles, the shirts of front opening with buttons and pants of no opening with elastic band. Those of dementia care facilities were two piece styles of shirts and pants, training suits or private plain clothes not uniform. Severe dementia inpatient dressed uniforms of the jump suits or two piece styles in some dementia care facilities. Second, the problems of dementia inpatient clothing were composed of suitability of raw and subsidiary clothing material, diversity of design and size, durability and form stability of clothes and elastic bands. Third, the design elements similar to those of existing inpatient clothing were preferred with regard to improving dementia inpatient clothing. That is, the design preferences of shirts showed front opening style with buttons, round neckline and a three-quarter-length sleeves. Those of pants came out no opening style with elastic band and full length. Also, pink color and natural patterns were preferred, and the private plain clothing of inpatient and fusion Han-bok style were somewhat preferred.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.903-919
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• 2016

This study aimed to contribute to the development of various female fashion designs by reviewing the genderless styles in androgynous trends that have loomed large in women's fashion, as well as through analyzing and organizing the changes in women's fashion that were required in a society in which various values coexist. A literature review was conducted to identify the genderless concepts, through which a total of 1,273 materials were selected from 10 brands of the S/S collections, during the period of 2006~2016. The results were as follows: first, without the juxtaposition of incongruous objects or images and a fixed type of color arrangements, the compromise shown in women's fashion were mostly expressed through various tones and diverse colors, and with the mixed use of heterogeneous patterns and materials. Second, the enjoyment of genderless styles was expressed with the unexpectedness that occur through symmetry/asymmetry and harmony/disharmony, as well as through the deviation from conventional notions regarding clothing structures. Third, the exaggeration expressed in women's clothing collections perfectly covered up a woman's body shape with the silhouette of exorbitantly expanded bulk and dimensions. These were done with extended lengths, expanded adornments, and modified clothing design types or structures. Fourth, the sensuality of genderless styles analyzed in women's fashion was expressed with mannish clothing that accentuates the beauty of the female body. Lastly, the historicity shown in genderless styles was expressed through clothing that represented traditional styles of the past, the symbolic meanings expressed in the clothes' colors and patterns, and the methods in which the decorative factors were utilized.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.46-58
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• 2014

This study investigated the difference of clothing-behavior for the same occasions in terms of a cross-cultural context. It analyzed clothing items worn by TED speakers via video at TED.com in the US, UK, France, Japan, and South Korea from October to December 2012. An analysis on the 233 videos showed considerable differences among countries. American speakers wore casual items on the top and formal wear on the bottom. Most British speakers wore the same styles on the top and the bottom outfits such as 'formal-top & formal-bottom' or 'casual-top & casual-bottom'. French speakers chose mix and match styles. Japanese and Koreans selected the same styles on the top and the bottom outfits such as 'formal-top & formal-bottom' or 'casual-top & casual-bottom'. In particular, Japanese speakers selected various casual items more than other countries' speakers. Korean senior speakers had a preference to wear more formal clothing and young people liked more casual attachments. This study found that clothing attachments differed by cultural context and generation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.67-77
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• 2003

Subjective sensorial experiment was executed with 43 subjects to find the relationships between the sensibility of jacket styles and the handle of wool fabrics. The handle and sensibility of wool fabrics were significantly different according to the wool types, and the handle was defined as two axis of Wild/Exquisite vs. Thin/Thick. The sensibility of jacket styles was different by the types of jacket styles, and the jackets were displayed in the 2D of Masculine/Feminine vs. Country/urban according to the factor analysis using 8 sensibility words. The best-appropriate jacket styles for each wool fabrics were converged into several jacket styles, and it was found that the wool fabrics were divided as for all-purpose or for specific-end usage. For the results of correspondence analysis of the matrix for the best-appropriate jacket style for each wool fabric, the jacket styles and wool fabrics together were grouped as 4: Striking and Yang, Striking and Yin, Plain and Yang, Plain and Yin.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.734-746
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the influence of women's self-image on image evaluation of clothing self-image, and on their selection of clothing styles by situations. The subject of investigation was 500 women above 20 living in Daegu. 6 types of clothing styles including classic, casual, elegant, dramatic, romantic, and mannish and 7 social situations including shopping near house, shopping in a busy street, cultural center, wedding ceremony, dinning out, alumni meeting or fraternity meeting, and couples meeting were used for this study. Data analysis was performed using SPSS package, which included factor analysis, reliability test, cluster analysis, ANOVA, and X²-test. The results are summarized as follows. 1. Adult women could be classified into 4 groups such as the passive mannish, the passive feminine, the active mannish, and the active feminine by their self-images. 2. There were different opinions on each clothing style by self-image. In the image of each clothing style by self-image groups, the passive feminine group considered classic style having effect to make people look tall, mature and elegant style to make people look active and charming. Also, they rated the boldness of dramatic style and the activeness of mannish style high. The active feminine group estimated the boldness of mannish style high. 3. Selection of clothing style differed according to various situations. More formal the situation was, more classic style tended to be selected and for less formal situation, mannish style was selected.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.