• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.4 s.44
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• pp.357-369
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to clarify the relationship between the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress, and to analyze its historical perspectives. First of all, the concept of the Ideal Beauty of Body, the definition of Dress Form, and the method and system to clarify Dress Form were depicted. Based on this frame work, the Form of Dress related to the Ideal Beauty of Body was described historically. For this purpose, documentary research were conducted and representative photography and paintings were used. The analysis was limited to the female one-Piece dress from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Naoclassicism, and to Romanticism. The results were as follows: 1. The Ideal Beauty of Body was found to be different throughout history and to be intimate- ly linked with fashionable dress. 2. The Form of Dress consisted of four basic components: The form of body itself, the form of clothing itself, the method of wearing, and the relationship between body and clothing. 3. The standards for classification of body form were body structure, body type, body proportion, posture, and movement. Clothing form was generally classified into flat type (unstructured type) and three dementional type (structured type); flat type was subclassified into draped type and tunic type. The method of wearing was classified into attached type, tying-up type, wrap·around type, pull-over type, open type and plastistic type. The relationship between body and clothing after wearing was generally classified into body priority type and clothing priority type. The clothing priority type was further divided into body exaggeration type and body concealment type; Body exaggeration type was further divided into upward type, downward type, forward type, backward type, right type and constriction type. 4. The pursuit of venus coelestis, metaphysical body part, ectomorphic body type, flat type clothing, body priority type; the pursuit of Venus Naturalis, physical body part, endomorphic body type, three dementional type clothing, clothing priority type proved to be closely related respectively by the historical study on the Ideal Beauty of Body and the Form of Dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.646-660
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about Clothing form and the surface image of detail. This study consists of pre-experiment for selecting the method of expression among detail which shows difference of the image and main experiment for identifying the clothing image as clothing form and the suface image of detial. Main experiment is made of factorial design for three variables-clothing form (H-line, A-line, V-line, X-line), detail (frill, tape), direction (width, length). Questionaire consists of 24 semantic differential scale expressing clothing form and detail. The subjects were 100 female students majoring in clothing and textile.7he data were analyzed by Frequencey, Factor analysis, Anova, scheffe's test and MCA method. The major findings were; 1) The image of clothing form and the surface image of detail were composed of 5 factors; attractiveness, prettiness, attention, modern, young. 2) For the visual evaluation of clothing form as the surface image of detail, there were significant differences in prettiness and attention factors. For the pretty and attentive image, we should express by the image of frill. 3) For the visual evaluation of the image of detail as clothing forms variation, there were significant difference in prettiness by A-line and X-line. 4) For the effect of clothing form and the surface image of detail, main effect was significant in attractiveness, prettiness, attention, modern factor. For the pretty image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of frill and A-line, X-line. For the attentive image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of frill and V-line. For the modern image of clothing, it will be expressed by the image of tape and V-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.3-14
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• 1994

This study is intended to identify the clothing mage as clothing form and dot space variation. This study consists of pre-experiment for setting the space between dot which shows the difference of the image and main experiment and also is made of factorial design for two variables-clothing form(H-line, A-line, V-line, X-line) dot (dot 1.0, dot 2.2, dot 3.4, dot 5.8) Qestionaire consists of 21 semantic differential scale expressing clothing form and .dot. Data is obtained from 50 female students maforing clothing and textile. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The image by the clothing form and the space dot variation is composed 5 factors' attention, activity, attraction, maturity, boldness. 2) The image by variation in clothing form dot has significant differences in attractive and attention factors, especially shows remarkable differences in attention. By choosing narrow space dot for attentive image, broden space dot for attractive image, you would be able to create the image you want. 3) The image by variation in dot clothing form has almost signific and differences in all factors, especially shows remarkable differences in activity. By choosing A-line for active image, V-line for mature and fashionable image, X-line for attractive, pretty and delicate mage, you would be able to create the image you want. 4) The interaction effect between clothing form and space dot was in attraction and maturity factor, V-line, X-line, dot 3.4 and dot 5.8 intensify attractive image, V-line and dot 1.0 mature image, X-line and dot 5.8 young image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.845-855
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• 2001

Now the most important thing in fashion industry is find out the fashion sensibility and preference of customers exactly. Thus it is needed that fashion sensibility is connected with formative properties in clothing. The purpose of this study is to clarify the relationship between the fashion sensibility and the formative properties in clothing. 91 kinds of costume samples have been selected from photographs in fashion magazines under color combination, inside form, texture, pattern type in clothing. I have measured fashion sensibility by using Semantic Differential method. The obtained data were analyzed by GLM, discriminant analysis. The results of analysis are as follow; 1. The discriminative images were significant difference in formative properties - color combination was related to attractiveness, inner form to decorativeness, pattern to harmony and texture to surface of soft and hard in clothing. 2. fashion sensibility was significant relationship with formative properties especially inner form in clothing. And the trimming was identified as gorgeous and feminine. 3. Preference, Buying needs, Riches and Pleasant were significant relationship with formative properties in clothing especially color combination and texture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.53-66
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• 2002

The spiral form, which comes from the organic form of natural phenomenon such as growth of creatures, has been used as a factor of formative shape in various fields of art until now. In conjunction herewith, this study intends to discover and express the life force and the formative beauty of natural substances with the organic spiral forms into clothing design, using various creating methods and materials such as Korean traditional paper. The natural substances with the spiral structure, such as seashells, land snails, passion flower, curled flower, growing chart of plants, Impatiens textori was used as subjects of the designs. The seven pieces of work were completed with attempts to develop aesthetic forms through the presentation techniques and methods via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation. Through such process the conclusion of this study is as follows: First, the nature, with unlimited possibilities, could be subject of human formative activities, leading to the creative world of formative art for designers. Second, adaptation of the spiral organic forms of nature into the contemporary clothing designs proved the motif as a source of inspiration of diverse subject, in recognition with its innate formative beauty as well as external shape. Third, design expressions via restructuring process of simplification, partial transformation and consolidation with designer's subjective point of view were adequate for the creations of contemporary fashion designs. Fourth, the Korean traditional paper, as a fine material for various shape according to the handling method, could be used appropriately in the contemporary clothing designs, expressing our aesthetic senses. Fifth and finally, expansion of the realm of formative expression of clothing through the development of possibilities of expression in contemporary clothing would enhance the creative possibilities of clothing design as formative art. In conclusion, the expression of clothing design as formative art was developed on the emphasis of re-creation of natural objects of the organic spiral form. For the future study, the applications of spiral form into everyday clothing designs, consolidating artistic senses and practical senses, are expected as opportunity of proposing developmental possibilities of the contemporary clothing designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.601-608
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• 2005

This research investigated the present state of the dress forms used by clothing manufacturers and proposed procedure to bring out the standardized body type and figure for women in twenties. The result of questionnaire showed chief pattern maker's thoughts that dress form should be differently made for each age group and should be more reflected the standard body than the idea body. The standardized body type was made from the standardized posture and size which were analyzed from the interquartile range(IQR) of 314 subjects. The standardized size could be verified as for the balanced body shape of twenties through making the standard dress form. The standardized form(S form) was compared with three kinds of forms(A, K and P) for investigating the suitability of forms. K form was very similar to S form, Educational P form and manufacturer's A form had quite big differences from S form at the important areas for making clothing. The side shapes of A, K and P forms showed differences at back bending, neck angle and hip shape from S form. A form was comparatively smooth and flat. This results could be used as the practical standard to improve the suitability of size and shape in the dress forms of manufacturers and educators.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.110-113
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• 1999

Clothing shape is principally described in seven factors that are composed of clothing design, clothing material, clothing size, pattern design, sewing method and body motion etc. The aims of this study was to measurement out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body by using the image processing. The subjects for direct anthropometric measurements were 248 female college students aged from 19 to 22. The data were statistically analyzed by principal analysis and cluster analysis. The results selected one somatotype. for the out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body, there dimensional clothing shapes measured. and cross-sectional clothing shape obtained by the measurement was considered to be space wave form. The out-line space-shape variation of clothing fitness with body was observed between the node number and amplitudes of clothing wave form, and node number was determined at the maxim of space-shape amplitude, and the space-shape amplitudes have related with aspect ratio of cross-sectional shape. (Korean J of Human Ecology 2(1) :110-113, 1999)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.861-875
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• 2015

This study examines the formative characteristics of Fold architecture and how its properties are shown in the fashion of the modern work of Issey Miyake through analysis. In this research, the Fold classification criteria for analysis features that appeared in Issey Miyake fashion features were established through research literature on Fold architecture and leading research. Empirical data collection was conducted for Issey Miyake's work and collection by collecting photo materials, and design concepts and the results are analyzed in terms of features. Study ranges of Issey Miyake's creative design development are Pleats Please, A-POC, 132.5 project, and collections from 2000 to 2014. The conclusion is as follows. First, design concepts presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features of Fold are Hybrid, topology, and uncertainty. Hybrid look for the meaning of fashion, which is the interaction between the wearer and garments. The concept of topology designs clothing, focusing on interrelationship of the body and clothing, and pays no attention to absolute size or the form of the clothing. The concept of uncertainty is an uncertain form that is infinitely expandable because all the elements have openness and uncertainty due to the determined incomplete state by the creator. Second, in the results presented in the Issey Miyake fashion features is the destruction of the boundary and diagram form. The destruction of the boundary is free from traditional clothing. The diagram form is a geometric form which does not create a Dart or Princess line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.111-127
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• 2001

This study aims to apply the formative aesthetic of human body to the form of clothing. For this purpose I try to find the various methods of analysis used in the work of sculpture. The method of inference and the checklists of design are used to relate the sculpture with the clothing design specifically. This methodology intends to regard human body as an artistic form and use the image of sculpture to the maximum. Especially I try to derive the motives of design and recreate them in clothing design emphasizing silhouette. On this methodology, following results were developed. First, the observations on the formative characteristic of human body show that the transformed form of human body expresses more perfect image of human body than the original form. The power of simplicity heightens the total beauty of the work. Second, the image of human body expressed in simplicity heightens the total beauty of the work. Second, the image of human body expressed in simplicity and exaggeration can be variously recreated in a silhouette with the formative and cubic effect, simplicity, and activity. Third, the elegant and static image found in the analysis and synthesis of human body can be used as a motive of clothing design and the changed details lead to the transformation of silhouette. Fourth, in developing designs by the item of checklists, one motive can be variously recreated according to the methods of designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.430-441
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, No. 2 (1997) p. 430∼441 Clothing fitness is strongly required in the apparel industry, and draping is an effective tool to increase fitness to the wearers. A more sophisticated and systematic information of the somatotype, accordingly, is necessary for better dress form design. This study was performed to provide fundamental data on middle-aged women's somatotypes for dress form designers by classifying the torso somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. The subjects were directly measured anthropometrically and indirectly analyzed photo- graphically. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis and analysis of variance. On the basis of the cluster analysis, using 7 factors cores the subjects were classified into four groups and four dress forms for middle-aged women were constructed. 8y the analysis of moire topography of proposed dress forms that were constructed according to the characteristics and silhouettes of front and lateral views for each somatotype of subjects, three-dimensional characteristics of somatotype and overlapped crosssection diagrams were analyzed.