• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.652-659
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• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.447-461
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to develop a torso pattern that is highly representative for the proper body shape of women in their thirties. Size data of the women with age of 30 through 39 from the database of Size Korea 2004 were used for the study. In order to develop a master pattern which will be used as the benchmark for grading of research group, 4 existing torso block drafting methods were compared based on the data gathered and the block with the highest evaluation score was utilized as a reference point. For the analysis, data was divided into four types, only the data of 138 subjects which were evaluated at least by four or more experts as valid were used for the study. The major results can be summarized as follow. The women of bust girth of 91cm and height of 160cm which was turned out to be representative type of research group were used as standard measurement for the purpose of reflecting not only curve length of the 3D analysis measurement but also the difference between front and back thickness to the pattern. Dart locations were set based on front and back torso ease, shoulder area revisions, front sagging length 1.5cm and cross section crevice length analysis. According to the experts' appearance evaluation of the pattern was found to be better than the control pattern which was regarded as the best among 4 patterns created based on existing torso block drafting methods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.549-561
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to survey and analyze the age classification of women customers as a target market and sizes on a label that were actually produced by each brand in Korean national brands ; they were classified into size for bodice and bottom, and compared with the distribution of national data of women's body measurement. They were analyzed and classified by brand groups of 'miss', 'missy', 'Mrs.'and 'madam', The results were ; 1) It was found that recent products for ready-made for women's clothes tend to be designed with target to the measured ages classified by the range of five or ten years. The main practice was that for 'miss'brand group the age range was of five years, and for 'missy'brand group, ten years. And for 'Mrs'and 'madam'brand groups, it was of 15 or 20 years. So that, it is necessary to design their clothes based on their features of body considering the intervals of age. 2) 'Mrs'and 'madam'groups were most remarkable for their distribution into a vast range of sizes for three control dimensions and waist girth size when compared to 'miss'and 'missy'groups. The distribution of brand size had no relation with that of body measurement, and in particular, none was produced for short height size between 145 and 150 ㎝. For tall height size between 175 and 180 ㎝, many brand sizes were distributed while body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement as a result that the larger the bust girth in such cases over 160 ㎝, the larger the size of hip girth. Even as for the height 155 and 160 ㎝ in which body measurement is concentrated, there were many problems because while sizes of 'large'bust girth and 'small'hip girth had a large distribution, their clothes were not produced.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.271-285
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new basic skirt pattern for 4 lower body types of Plus-sized women. To reduce a time and economic loss about putting it on, This study applied a 3D sample module in the course to develop a basic skirt pattern which is fit, functional and beautiful. A data analysis used the SPSS 11.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, This study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. To reflect a feature according to an abdomen projection and hip projection, we added the maximum hip circumference to the waist circumference and hip circumference for necessary for a skirt draft item. The front hip circumference sets to the H/4+1cm(ease)+D/4. The back hip circumference set to the H/4+0.5cm(ease)+D/4. The D is the hip circumference in the maximum hip circumference to subtract. The front waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)+0.5cm(A front and back's difference)+D/4. The back waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)-0.5cm(A front and back's difference)-D/4. Compare with 4 lower body types of Plus-sized Women, A type 2 and type 4 abdomen projections are bigger. We raised a front waistline of skirt pattern to a 0.3cm upside, and take about 1.3cm down the skirt length from a developed skirt pattern. Consequently, the appearance of a front skirt length was improved with a side skirt length.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.632-639
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to verify the effect of drive swing on multiple functional wear wearing in golf. The subjects were 6 men ($22.67{\pm}0.82$ yrs, $175.42{\pm}3.42cm$, $78.75{\pm}4.78kg$), who had career each with at least 8 yers golf experience with right-hander. For kinemetical analysis, this study used equipments with 7 motion capture cameras (300Hz) and analysis program (Nexus1.5). The total time of the club head, displacement magnitude of the COM and swing plane were compared of according to functional wear wearing and non-weraing during golf drive swing. The results of the study are as follows. The total time of the club on wearing ($2.18{\pm}0.06sec$) was faster than non-wearing ($2.52{\pm}0.15sec$). Displacement magnitude of the COM on wearing ($4.06{\pm}0.67cm$) was shorter than non-wearing ($5.79{\pm}0.72cm$). Also, swing plane was found to be significantly different of 3 phase excepted BST-DS (back swing top-down swing) phase. AD-BST (address-back swing top) phase on wearing ($13.86{\pm}3.08cm$) decrease more than non-wearing ($20.82{\pm}3.99cm$), DS-IP (down swing-impact) phase on wearing ($6.25{\pm}1.35cm$) decrease more than non-wearing ($7.18{\pm}1.52cm$) and IP-FT (impact-follow though) phase on wearing ($7.93{\pm}2.09cm$) decrease more than non-wearing($9.68{\pm}2.02cm$). The multiple functional wear wearing was contribution to come close for one-plane, a long with consistency and accuracy on golf drive swing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.754-763
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• 2018

This study examined the color reproducibility and color fastness of digital textile printing for nylon sublimation transfer. After measuring the temperature and time suited to nylon sublimation transfer, the researchers conducted various tests for comparison and analysis including polyester transfer paper on polyester fabric to check dyeing characteristics, color change, sharpness, and the rubbing fastness of the dyeing samples for nylon sublimation transfer. These tests produced the following results. At $185^{\circ}C$ and $187^{\circ}C$, the sublimation transfer dyeing characteristics of nylon were similar to those of polyester and the researchers even observed superior color development in some colors; at a low temperature of $180^{\circ}C$, the sample that was worked on had the lowest level of color development. The examination of color difference (${\Delta}E$), which compared $L^*a^*b^*$ values, showed that the ${\Delta}E$ value of magenta was 10.34, that of yellow was 24.70, and that of black was 15.28. These results highlight the important role of heat treatment temperature and time on color development in nylon sublimation transfer. Concerning sharpness, the samples subjected to higher temperature heat treatment exhibited fewer color spreading phenomena around lines. Thus, dyeing properties and fastness can be enhanced by elongating time at low temperatures and shortening time at high temperatures; however, considering production time constraints as well as the need to produce industrially marketable quantities, the findings of this study suggest that the heat treatment temperature most suitable for nylon sublimation transfer is $187^{\circ}C$ for a duration of 50 seconds.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.9 no.4 s.32
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• pp.109-116
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• 2004

This paper describes a cloth simulation system for dressing 3D virtual human model with different pieces of clothing. The garments are constructed of cutting patterns seamed together. The system reads a body file and a cutting pattern file and produces a new model dressed with the specified garment by using a physical simulation based on a mass-spring model. For the realistic cloth simulation, it performs collision detection and response between triangles of the 3D human model and the garment. Because the number of triangles of a human model is very large. the collision detection and response requires a lot of time. To overcome this problem, we propose a pruning method which decreases the number of collision detection and response by a space-subdivision method. Experimental results show that the system produces realistic images and makes it possible to sew a garment around a virtual human body in several seconds.