• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.313-325
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• 1999

This study aimed to classify the data of children's bodies into several clusters by principal component scores that were extracted through the factor analysis in the former study, and to describe the distribution and body characteristics of the clusters. The sample was 308 elementary school children aged from 6 to 8 and the anthropometric measurements were performed indirectly from the photographs of the subjects, which was the same as the first analysis. The data were analysed statistically using SPSSWIN Ver. 8.0. Through the statistical analysis, 3 clusters were obtained from the data. The first cluster distributed more in the children aged 7 and 8 than in the children aged 6. The somatotype of this group was the tallest among the three groups, and they were the most developed group compared to the two other groups in lateral component as well as in linear component. The second cluster group wasn't well developed in lateral components, and had lowest level in Rohrer Index, so this group had thin figures compared to the other groups. The third cluster revealed dominant distribution in the group aged 6, and the group had the least developed linear components but higher level in Rohrer Index. Each cluster group revealed peculiar somatotype that was dominant in one group but rarely in other cluster groups. Lateral views of these characteristics were showed using the average of the measurements of clusters.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.111-126
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• 2008

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.549-561
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to survey and analyze the age classification of women customers as a target market and sizes on a label that were actually produced by each brand in Korean national brands ; they were classified into size for bodice and bottom, and compared with the distribution of national data of women's body measurement. They were analyzed and classified by brand groups of 'miss', 'missy', 'Mrs.'and 'madam', The results were ; 1) It was found that recent products for ready-made for women's clothes tend to be designed with target to the measured ages classified by the range of five or ten years. The main practice was that for 'miss'brand group the age range was of five years, and for 'missy'brand group, ten years. And for 'Mrs'and 'madam'brand groups, it was of 15 or 20 years. So that, it is necessary to design their clothes based on their features of body considering the intervals of age. 2) 'Mrs'and 'madam'groups were most remarkable for their distribution into a vast range of sizes for three control dimensions and waist girth size when compared to 'miss'and 'missy'groups. The distribution of brand size had no relation with that of body measurement, and in particular, none was produced for short height size between 145 and 150 ㎝. For tall height size between 175 and 180 ㎝, many brand sizes were distributed while body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement was few. It means that distribution of brand size was different from real distribution of body measurement as a result that the larger the bust girth in such cases over 160 ㎝, the larger the size of hip girth. Even as for the height 155 and 160 ㎝ in which body measurement is concentrated, there were many problems because while sizes of 'large'bust girth and 'small'hip girth had a large distribution, their clothes were not produced.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.35-55
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the somatotypes of women in the early 20's, which were likely to deform due to bad posture in growth period. Accordingly, bodies of women aged 20 to 24, whose growth stopped, were measured directly and indirectly, and factors related to body shapes were extracted, body shapes were categorized based on the data, and the characteristics of each body shape were analyzed. As a result, 10 factors related to body shapes were extracted in the factor analysis, and body shapes were categorized into 6 types. Type 1 was the volume of body that was big and the longest; and the general frame was large. The straight body shape with small back protrusion; the shoulder is relatively thick and the width of the shoulder was normal. Type 2 was the volume of body that was the biggest and the upper body was the longest; the general frame was of average height. The forward body shape with the back flat; the shoulder was very thick, wide, and serious leaning forward. Type 3 was a body that was thin and the shortest. The sway-back body shape with big curvature at the back; the shoulder was thin, narrow, and straight. Type 4 was a body that was short stature, and the general frame was of average build. The forward body shape with the most serious back protrusion; the shoulder was normally thick, narrow, and straight. Type 5 was a group with small body, and the lower body and general frame are long. The sway-back body shape with protrusion at the upper shoulder and the sides leaning backward; the shoulder was thin, wide, and leaning forward. Type 6 was a thin and short body; and the general frame was small. The lean-back body shape with the smallest back protrusion and leaning backward; the shoulder was thin, narrow, and leaning backward. Characteristics of the classified body shapes can be used in producing ready-made clothes, and it is hoped that there will be follow-up studies on clothing pattern design and production based on this result.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.76-89
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• 2012

This study was performed to offer the basic data for the design of farm shoes. 265 Korean female farmers aging between the 40s to the 80s volunteered for this study and we measured 40 items on each foot with the 3D foot scanner. First, the differences between farmers' feet and non-farmers' feet were analyzed. Farmers' feet were thicker in the instep areas, but had lower arch height than non-farmers' feet. In addition, farmer's feet were tilted to the inside. Next, eight factors were extracted among the 40 measuring items, and the classification criteria of the foot shape was analyzed. The important factors were: size of foot length and volume of ankle, malleolus height and size, volume of the front part of ankle, medial & lateral ball width, and vertical size of foot. Third, three clusters according to the foot shapes were categorized by cluster analysis of eight factor scores. Foot type 1 was medium in foot length, big in thickness, large in lateral ball width, small in toe 1 angle, and tilted to the inside. Foot type 2 was long and slim, and big in toe 5 angle. Foot type 3 was short in foot length, medium in volume of the front part of ankle, large in medial ball width, and big in toe 1 angle. Despite its shortness, foot type 3 was thick and showed severe deformation in toe 1. Lastly, the frequency distributions of the foot types in each age group were analyzed. Female farmers of the forties showed high frequency in type 1 and other age groups showed high frequency in type 2. The older female farmers showed higher frequency of type 3.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2012

Ever since the year 2000, Korea's musical markets has invited famous overseas license performances and have therefore cooperated with staffs working overseas in regards to stage costumes. This study aims to suggest the methodology of the stage costume making process according to the present advanced production system of Korea's musical market. The researcher participated in the stage costume making work of 'Chicago' as a costume supervisor. It took place at the Opera House of Seongnam Art Center from January 10, 2010 to February 28, 2010. Furthermore, there was significance in reinforcing academic values and implementing practical making process of stage-costumes based on the actual field work. The method of this research was carried out through a theoretical research and a case study that focused on empirical research. As for the research scope, it was limited to the actual stage-costumes that the researcher fully engaged with as a costume supervisor of the musical 'Chicago.' The results of this study were as follows. The stage costume making process of the musical 'Chicago' was categorized according to the classification of production system in the performance. For pre-production, it was divided according to the information of the actor and the analysis of the bible. Rehearsal period was divided according to the product clothes and fitting. Production week & preview were divided according to the changeover of clothes and the arrangement of dressers. The Run was divided according to the inspection of the situation concerning clothes in general during the performance. Post-Production Period was divided according to the collection of clothes and the implemented database. This study eventually suggested appropriate stage-costume making processes for the costumes making environment according to the expansion of overseas license musical market. However, it has a limitation of the research scope to the musical 'Chicago.' The creative performances of the domestic version are planned in diverse forms and come to abroad animate by the Korean Wave. Therefore, the field of stage-costume is necessary for the establishment of practical schemes of the system and copyright in accordance with the environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.80-85
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of armscye circumference which will be used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. The subjects of this study were 16- to 49-year-old women whose 3D body shape data were analyzed. 72 length and length-ratio measurements were taken to each subject' armscye circumference. The used analysis methods are descriptive statistics, principal component analysis, and cluster analysis. The results are follows; 1. Considering the Length of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 3 factors and those factors comprised 95% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 4 cluster by their size characteristic. 2. Considering the length-ratio of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 5 factors and those factors comprised 96.45% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 5 cluster by their shape characteristic. So that, this research could be useful to manufacture garment which reflected 3D body figure and improved fitting.