• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.31
• /
• pp.145-164
• /
• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.42-58
• /
• 2005

This study examines the color image of the early 20th century and compares the work of designers' who represented fashion and trend at that time with cinema costume which made after 1990's. This shows the relationship and differences between the color of the past which is presented through designer's works and present which is visualized through cinema costume. The result of this study shows that the color which is reproduced through cinema costume is decided according to the story, time period, scenery space and character of the film rather than being a genuine attempt at reviving the color of the past time period. The color is exaggerated or limited to manipulate the effects of character and story creating a stronger impression to the audience.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.219-245
• /
• 1996

Throughout her life time, Edith Head produced cinema costumes for over one thousand movies. She was the leading cinema costume designer in Hollywood. Since the Academy Awards added the area of costume design to be recognized [during 33 years of her work(1948∼1981)], she was nominated 35 times an awarded eight times. However, there were no significant studies done on her work or accomplishments although she was acknowledged as an ingenue and creative designer who elicited artistic effects by reflect character's images through their costumes. The purpose of the study was focused on revealing Edith Head's life and work as her creations had a great impact in he field of cinema costumes. It was also to emphasize the forceful affect of cinema costumes on fashion and to disclose the powerful influence of cinema costume designers. The method of the study includes reviews of literature, movies for which she created costumes, her own possessions, and fashion magazines as well as her works that were nominated and chosen for the Academy Awards. Edith head's emphasis in costume design was based on a blend of both simplicity and sophistication avoiding excessive exaggeration and transformation in her work. Her work was also realistic and contemporary. She developed a dramatic ambience through an innovative design while preserving the actor's individual character and uniqueness. Through this accept her her work was highly renowned as an art form as it was gaining popularity. She was also a dominant figure who influenced trends in the areas of fashion magazines, uniforms, and public clothing. In the review of her cinema costumes, it was revealed that the styles of cinema costumes can be as quickly adapted by the public as movies are viewed because the cinema costumes are highly projected through a visual channel. Subsequently, a follow up study on the affect of cinema costumes on fashion would be beneficial.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.63-74
• /
• 2005

The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.8
• /
• pp.55-70
• /
• 2012

In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2007

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.71-83
• /
• 2006

This study is about how Art Nouveau and Art Deco clothing are represented in the costume design of film created after those periods and examines the recreation process of visual media. The costume design of The Wings of the Dove tried to reflect the mixture of fashion trends that could be seen during the times. Milly???s clothes seem to focus on recreating the special features of the 1900???s fashion trends more visually while Kate???s clothes are represented in a strong and simple way to emphasize her personality. The costumes in The Great Gatsby, tried to reinvent the 1920???s clothes in a romantic way. Daisy???s and Gatsby???s costumes were based on the aesthetics of the 1920???s clothing. but emphasized the symbolic nature of the characters to give a greater dramatic effect. By analyzing and comparing, it can be seen that, while costume design usually begin with painstaking research into the historical period in which the film is set it is often altered to highlight aspects of the story. such as the theme and the characters, in an effort to create a stronger dramatic effect. Costume design remains one of the most effective means for a director to visually express the personality and desires of a film???s characters. The ideal aim of costume design is to create something new but at the same time, remain true to the period by being grounded in accurate research.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.67-67
• /
• 2003

After the end of the twentieth century, sexual boundary the man and the woman get collapsed, and the tendency of sexual discordance gets deepened in the costume influenced by cultural pluralism and eclecticism, and subculture which illuminates behavioral styles and values again. In this situations, some people want to be a woman with transsexual change operation, and on the contrary, some people reject to put on woman's dress and express themselves' images putting on the cloths like a man, a few of people who challenge the role of sexual dichotomy express their open identity persue their desires with self-confidence, exchange their informations through internet, interchange each other with open demonstration, and discuss and share their opinions about their social positions. In addition to it, some homosexuals, bisexuals, transsexuals and cloth perverts are used as the materials of cinema which pursue new world. They are utilized in the communicative program which recognize and observe the sexual variety as they are, and make a sexual values.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2001.10a
• /
• pp.72-72
• /
• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2007

This study is to design costumes of each characters, seen in the film of 'TITANIC' directed by James Cameron in 1997, by analyzing various costumes for each roles in the film. The 'TITANIC' has got the 'Oscar Award' in 1998 in 11 sectors for its' high box office record and the finest of the work, based on successful visualization of the costumes for the contemporary characters by historical research. The social background of 'TITANIC' would be presumed in the year of 1912, of which era was also called by 'La Belle Epoque', to say, 'good period'. This study, therefore, traced the representative art trend for the 1910's, together with political, economical and social backgrounds as 1st step. The 2nd step is the consideration of fashion trends of costume affected by the contemporary trends such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the period. The 3rd step is the analysis of costumes in the film of 'TITANIC'. Finally, this work has designed the virtual costumes of the characters, in imaginary scenes, which could denote the nature of the personality. Hopefully, this study could help designers show sustainable development in creating cinema costumes and other related projects, based on the understandings of this work.