Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.37
no.6
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pp.809-826
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2013
This study considers types of expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images expressed through space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The expression types on space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows are what is presented by distributing huge objects associated with Fashion Shows at the center or back of the stage, integrating several detailed decorative elements while maintaining the morphological characteristics of the runway in a linear form, and utilizing an inartificial place or newly forming the whole stage. The symbolism characteristic was first indicated for the aesthetic characteristics on space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows. Symbolism is indicated through the identification of an implicit meaning towards a specific object. The symbolism was highlighted utilizing elements or stories that have a deep association with Chanel. Second, the characteristic of ecology was expressed through the recognition of the importance of the ecological environment by escaping the harmful practices of civilization such as environmental disasters and human alienation. The expression of visual ecology was emphasized utilizing themes related to environmental disasters or reviving the space of primitive nature. Third, the characteristic of fantasy was shown to express thoughts that originated from the human yearning for the ideal world contrary to an incomplete society. Fantasy was created by the inaccessible object in reality and a change in spatial structure. Fourth, the characteristics of amusement expressed pleasure, which is the instinctive desire truly immanent in a human being. It was natural amusement, which was advocated as freedom through the integration of neutrality, integrating either diverse elements (which are naturally recognized in our daily life) into Fashion Shows or amusement, which expressed newness through utilizing unusual objects in Fashion Shows.
The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh's movie, 'Mirror, Mirror'. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of 'Mirror, Mirror' as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.
This research established that the two characteristics of Femail Gugguek were explored on the character as genre and the nationalism discourse. This research also included how to encounter the characteristic of Female Gugguek as a popular entertainment with the social context at the time and how to re-produce the social ideology. The 'historical nationalism narrative' piercing Female Gugguek had the close relation with the nation/state discourse of the time. The history reproduced by Female Gugguek was not real. It was the imagined past, the history as image. The Female Gugguek was a genre which typically showed how to intermediate fantasy, ideology and narrative. The happy-endings with the victory of male hero, the narrative pattern on overcoming national crisis, the narrative emphasizing the glorious past and the unification of nation, all these were projected the discourse on nationalistic ideology and nation/state-making in 1950's. The Utopian desire of Female Guggeuk imagining the glorious past and strong nation was the fantasy which concealed the contradiction in real life and the national identity damaged by colonial experience, division of territory, governance by U.S. Military Government and the Korean War. The Female Guggeuk was doing well, because it had amusement. Futhermore, imagination of glorious past and strong state/nation of Female Guggeuk satisfied the public's desire of escapism and wish to establish their position and identity in the rapid social-economic changes. However, Female Guggeuk repeatedly produced the never-changing characters, narrative pattern and conservative world-view. Thus, it became regarded as immature and obsolete thing in late 1950's. Female Guggeuk, which kept re-producing the retrogressive image of the past without modern viewpoint and interpretation, was not sensitive about change of time and trend of the people. Consequently, it was pushed out of people's major interest.
The aim of this study was to gain an understanding of the element playfulness in fashion photographs related to openness and multiple significance in contemporary art. A total of 105 fashion photographs from US and UK Vogue magazine editorials and advertisements for the last five years were selected for the study. The photographs were analyzed in two main categories - the contextual element of themes, and the elements of visual expression; composition, models, objects and editing technology. The element of playfulness in the photographs were found to be divided into themes of infantile fantasy, social satire and situational dissonance, and elements of visual expression were found to express image distortion, expansion, exaggeration, reduction, and optical illusions. A photography type termed as infantile fantasy and social satire have descriptive characteristics and usually deliver the message by using models and objects to present a certain situation or express social satirical viewpoint and reflective attitude by using objects and photographic skills. A photography type termed as situational dissonance is characterized by immediately understood expressions and usually clarify the message by using a photographic technology such as editing the printed image or expect the model to express an exaggerated poses and ridiculous expressions, causing an optical illusion. Visually expressed and composed scene using composition, models, objects and editing technology is a specific character of photograph and due to the advances in computer editing technology it has been able to express the various playfulness.
The purpose of this study is to explore the characteristics of spatial expression in the works of Terunobu Fujimori, Japan's leading eco-friendly architect, in line with the contemporary background on environmental issues. As a method of research, we will select five representative multi-room spaces from the 1990s to the present and explore the characteristics of expression in the space through literature research. As a result of the analysis, we were actively using the strategy of using natural materials to finish the space and introduce plants into the building. Japan's strategy of borrowing traditional methods was to use them as a way of expressing space, a way of expressing fantasy and deviance. We expect that the demands of modern people seeking novelty in this era and the eco-friendly building plan of feasible alternatives can be presented as another methodology for spatial design.
The tendency of exuberant multi-everything, enormous volumes and decoration has been showed in fashion since the 21st century. This tendency is very interesting in contrast to the tendency of restraint, simplicity and removing decoration which has been showed in the modern fashion throughout the 20th Century and especially minimalism fashion in the 1960s and the 1990s with the expectation of New Millenium. Maximalism is this kind of exuberant expression emerged since 2000. However, studies about maximalism in fashion have not been performed enough. Thus this study tried to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of maximalism in the modern fashion according to the previous studies of maximalism in design and architecture with social cultural background. The scope of this study was from 2000 to 2006, and this study was performed through literature survey with demonstrative analyzation of fashion collection photographs. The results are as follows; Maximalism has the meaning of 'maximum oriented-ism' and has aesthetic view of 'more/bigger is more beautiful.' The formativeness of maximalism in modern fashion was analyzed as fusion, enlargement, decoration, and fantasy. The internal meaning was analyzed as recovery of human being through pursuing of sensibility, fun and newness.
The movie costumes may serve to change individuals'ego identity, shift a gender identity to another one and make multiple and plural gender identities shared. The unique identities shown in movies can influence the audience to the extent that they will imitate characters's costumes or appearance in their real life, replacing their inner, unrealizable and private fantasy with real one. The purpose of this study is to review the movies produced in 1930's and thereafter by categorizing the socio-cultural gender concepts into masculinity and feminity. Masculinity and Feminity are not attributions fixed by some physical characteristics, but it tends to be changed or expended by some social factors over time. In short, it may be a flexible, plural, individual and self-introspecive attribute. Movies present diverse types of masculinity and feminity, and in particular, the movie costumes specify them. In other words, the costumes may be model means expressing the masculinity and feminity, and the gender identities shown in the movies tend to be imitated, re-created or assumed by the audience. All in all, the movie costumes serve to take on the confrontation of masculinity and feminity between inner, unrealizable and private fantasy and external reality and thereby, expand it from internal to external issue and thus, change or reform masculinity and feminity.
Rapid economic development has played a big role in the formation of the values of pluralism. On that account, the importance of leisure life has grown substantially, Such phenomenon has allowed people to travel more frequently. Hence, there has been a growing demand for accommodation. In particular, the number of design hotels with a stylish design has grown exponentially as compared with the conventional standardized chain hotels. As a result, a variety of objets have been utilized in hotel spaces for establishing a differentiated formativeness and offering a visual stimulus to users. An objet refers to an object of symbolic function. That is to say, it serves to increase cultural values by approaching arts in an ordinary environment. Distinctive objets are mainly expressed as new ideas by the emerging designers in Europe. In particular, Marcel Wanders designs hotel spaces on the basis of the emotional meaning and story of objets, thereby showing interesting elements. He brings human stories into a design by leveraging the expressional characteristics of an objet, such as the place, fantasy and story-telling, in hotel interior spaces. This allows users, who reject the stereotypes of modern functionalism, to have exotic memories by stimulating their instinctive senses. Furthermore, this can complete users as a part of an artwork by creating a huge artwork on the basis of hotel interior spaces. In this regard, I hope that the expressional characteristics appeared in the hotel interior spaces of Marcel Wanders can be utilized as preliminary data for planning design hotels in the future.
Modern society is diversified society and is under complicated situation as the boundary of each area has been disappeared. To understand and accept such complicated situation as widely as possible, it is required to understand interaction. of receiver with intertextual environmental arts as the structure of open text. This study examined interaction of environmental arts in terms of intertextual feature based on experience of receiver on combined element of different space and time, combination of genres. This is the concept of meaning personal experience or situation as receiver participates the process of completing art works, and set the fantasy, post-place and speciality of location and temporal-spatial expression method, as characteristics of intertextuality. Features of such experience elements are used as methodology of analyzing characteristics of each work. Feature of fantasy uses strategy of inducing spatial experience of receiver with dematerialization for post-place and expands the place where events occur with intervention of contingency and event situation. It suggests the spatial-temporal expression method as the features focusing on process and reflecting changes in spatial-temporal continuum and speciality of place emphasizing context of place. In conclusion, environmental arts needs to be deep rooted on complicated existence aspect of receiver beyond metaphysical dimension depending on presence and to accomplish conversion of awareness of supplying bisection of life from that place. By doing so, environmental arts can live textual life as it gets together with all other texts in terms of text dimension and creativity can be reborn as practical creativity in intertextuality rather than uniqueness. Such combination with other areas and acceptance of various aspects of receivers who see and experience this will result to creation of open works which can be create newly over and over again in multi-dimensional aspects.
I analyze orange that is consistently used, even though not consciously, in the films whose function and meaning are clear. In detail, there are examples of color in films, psychological phenomena of colors expressed in posters and opening titles, color characteristics of clothes and costumes, and semiotic analysis of color names in film titles. (1) Fact and Truth; civilization and criticism. The film tries to tell the truth than the fact. It represents facts as it is, but it presupposes truth. This is a unique characteristic of media films. The truth of the fact is not important. The film tells the truth believing and wanting to show off. The film, which has inherent characteristics of the gap between fact and truth, represents nature and civilization. It carries nature as it is and criticizes the harm of civilization. Orange is nature and civilization. Realistic films such as Hong Sang Soo and Kim Ki Duk, fall into this category. For example, there are A Taxi Driver(2017) and I Can Speak(2017). (2) Virtual History; fake images and memories. In Hollywood SF genres like The Matrix(1999), orange was dealt with virtual reality. However, in Korean films they are replaced by historical dramas. The representation of history becomes a virtual reality. Films such as The Fortress(2017), Masquerade(2012), and Roaring Currents(2014) deal with virtual history. In these films, orange is a fake image and memory. (3) Light=color; Aura. The color and light of orange is aura. At sunrise and sunset, the orange of the incandescent light is almost similar to that of the artificial light. Orange of tungsten makes the real characters surrealistic and mysterious. For example, there are The City of Madness(2016), The Man from Nowhere(2010), and Coinlocker Girl(2014). (4) Fantasy; communication with other worlds. Orange is a sweet fantasy. In our daily life, we go to a supermarket, share a chat with friends in a coffee shop, and spend time in front of a television. Orange makes our life free and dreams. It is the communication between the former being and the other world. This can be found in the sexual fantasy scenes of all genres. For example, there are Sunny(2011), Welcome To Dongmakgol(2005), and 200 Pounds Beauty(2006).
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