• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.641-655
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• 2015

This study examined the ideal image and fashion of Korean women in the 1970s from a socio-cultural context. This study used information on the 1970s politics, economy, and culture provided by "Chosun Ilbo" and "Yosungjungang" as well as their presentation of the ideal image and fashion for Korean women in the 1970s. The ideal image and fashion of women were considered from the viewpoint of Hamilton's Meta-theory. The ideal image of women in the 1970s is divided into two aspects. The image from the traditional Confucian perspective was prevalent and restricted the lives of women to housekeeping chores. On the contrary, women have increasingly participated in society vis-$\grave{a}$-vis education and employment opportunities to present a progressive image of women. These aspects coexisted during the turmoil of social change. Progressive women had money to buy clothes because they were economically independent. These women embraced styles that included mini, midi, maxi, and bell-bottom pants. Further, pants were developed into different styles such as pant suits. T-shirts and blue jeans as casual wear were very popular among the youth. At the end of the 1970s, the tailored look and the big look (which copied men's clothing) were in fashion. Masculine styles such as wide shoulders with pads and neckties strengthened gender equality. Other fashions were dominated by feminine styles described as beautiful, sweet, and elegant that reflected Korean society's tendency to regard women as sex objects. Clothing that exposed the body highlights this sexual objectification aspect. Women wore miniskirts, hot pants, and bikinis because they wanted to enhance their sex appeal, propagating the view of women as sex objects. In conclusion, all aspects of society and culture were closely interrelated with a fashion style that reflected the values of those aspects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2018

This study examined thermo-physiological responses according to the design change of construction site working clothes (control (C) working clothes; prototype (P) working clothes). We measured rectal temperature, skin temperature, micro-climate within the clothes and sweat rate. In the evaluation of physiological functionality, based on pattern improvement in working clothes, P working clothes showed significantly lower rectal temperatures, trunk and thigh skin temperatures than C working clothes. It is preferable that rectal temperature should be kept low during work that is not favorable to an increase in body temperature. P working clothes were more physiologically functional than C working clothes. In addition, P working clothes showed significantly lower temperatures in the trunk and thigh parts in a micro climate temperature. We could explain that the side seam zipper on the pants and the gusset on armpit parts create an air permeability effect of lowering the temperature of micro-climate. Aggressive ventilation through the slit of the garment is an important factor for the restoration of the physiological function of the worker at rest between work. Sweat rate showed a higher level in C working clothes than P working clothes. When working in a hot environment, workwear needs to be designed so that the worker is not exposed to thermal stress. Therefore, it was evaluated that the P work clothes used in this study alleviated the physiological burdens of heat.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.8
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• pp.1364-1377
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• 2010

Although the human body is a biological subject with definite and distinctive physical features, its actualization and perception differs among societies. The aesthetics of the human body are based on diverse cultural perceptions that must be considered prior to design development. This study establishes the foundations of newly adopted concepts of beauty that are presumed to have been established in the first half of the twentieth century that continue to affect our mindset even now. The research includes human figures in the articles of women's magazines and cosmetic advertisements in the early $20^{th}$ century. The results are as follows: First, the change of perception in the human body: Instead of being a subject of preservation, the body has become a subject of sculpture with emphasis on health in the 1920's and on beauty in the 1930's. The recognition of the importance of the body has created intensive attention on physical training and an increased sense of hygiene. The body exposed to the public perceives itself through the eyes of others that alter one's own perception of oneself as well as become a target of evaluation. There is an additional emphasis on the exotic eroticism of a passive subordinate. Western culture became the standard for modernization along with the dissociation of traditional standards and values. Through the effect of education and western thinking, the awareness of women's rights and self-appreciation was developed. Second, ideal beauty can be summarized as follows: Unprocessed natural beauty was extolled as ideal in the 1920's, but the 1930's, it highlighted big eyes and an aquiline nose that are the characteristics of western women. Taking care of one's appearance was recognized as an important value for every social class. Cosmetics and skin care treatments promised soft and white skin. In contrast to western cosmetics, dark and shiny hair was highly favored. Exercising and traveling, differing seasonal and regional skin treatments were also widely accepted. In its initial stages, the research had originally assumed that the beginning of the twentieth century would be a time in which traditional concepts of beauty and new, westernized aesthetics coexisted. However, as the research progressed, it was clear that the idea of beauty had already adopted occidental ideals by that time. Thus, it seems necessary to continue the study on the shifting paradigms of beauty that must have occurred in the nineteenth and late twentieth century.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.71-88
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• 1996

For understanding skin temperature based on clothing design from a viewpoint of comfortable wearing, the skin temperature, physiological reactions(body temperature, blood pressure and pulse) and physilolgical response(thermal sensation, comfort sensation and perceptive sweaty sensation) were measured on condition tha t5 naked healthy male exposed to serveral environmental temperatures,( $20{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$ ,$28{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$ and $32{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$). As the results of this testing, the regional skin temperature was varied for 90min just after expose to those the environment but was generally stabilized for the nest 90min. It was proved the difference of the regional skin temperature at low temperature environmental($20{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$) was larger than at high temperature environmental($32{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$) and inder serveral environmental temperature,the degree of the regional skin was not equal. Except in case of the thigh, the front of all regional skin temperature turned out higher than the back of them. According to change of environmental temperature, body temperature and pulse were altered. In the pshycological response, 'thermal sensation-comfort sensation' was felt to 'slightly warm - comfortable' at $28{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$of the environmental temperature, and 'perceptive sweaty sensation', wneh it was said 'sweat' at only $32{\pm}1.0^{\circ}C$ of it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.1692-1703
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• 2008

On 2008, China comes to be an era of opening the market for 30 years, being both the 4th economically biggest country and 2nd ranked clothing export country in the world. China plays a huge consuming market for the world, along with the competition arena for the numerous world fashion brands while more than 100 kinds of Korean fashion ones being launched into the China. By applying the analysis and investigation of preferred street style. in local area to the development of fashion items and design, the synergistic effect of university and industrial corporation might also be expected. This study aims to provide the basic resources for the development of fashion design on behalf of the Korean fashion brands launched into China and moreover to anticipate the requirement on the part of Chinese consumers by way of understanding the preferred fashion styles, through analysis and investigation of the street fashion in Dalian, northeastern area of China. Conclusively, in terms of clothing style, 80.5% of casual style and 19.5% of formal style were notified. The jean casual, and easy casual being dominant in the former, feminine style in the later. In view of the high frequency of T-shirt, sleeveless on the top, full-length pants and 7/9 length pants on the bottom. The simple and cool style seems to be favored, making them easy through the hot summer. The upper clothes exposed in body part of back, chest and shoulder, were frequently shown. In light of colours. white, black, red were preferred on top, blue and black were preferred on bottom. To deal with accessories, the shoulder bag mostly preferred among bags, the sandal, slippers, snickers in sequential order among shoes, the hair pins and rubber band(tied or, held up style), in hair accessories. Other items of hat, belt, and sunglasses, which could give a point to the summer style, were identified low frequency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.337-348
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• 2002

Based upon literature survey and questionnaire survey, this research tries to develop four new Cleanroom Garment in semiconductor industrial environment. The designs emphasize to minimize workers disconmfort so that they can not only cover human body fully but also reduce dust as much as possible during work hour in clean room. The new designs characteristics and results from both function test and dust emission test are as follows: 1. In order to reduce dust-emission, we develop new designs with hood, kimono sleeve, and back zipper. The designs with hood face positive test results in term of motion suitability and dust-omission. The design with seam in front, in particular, is effective to control dust-emission. 2. For the purpose of reducing dust-emission, we also emphasize to minimize ease of dust-proof wear, with reference to previous research and clothing experiment. The experiment participants report that the new wears are not so comfortable as existing ones, but they accept the new wears positive as effective in reducing dust-emission owing to reduced ease of Cleanroom Garment and sleeves. 3. A1so to reduce dust-emission in inner wear, we put inner wear in both Cleanroom Garments and inner wear, resulting to remove discomfort of wearers when changing clothes and of tight waist due to inner-trousers. 4. We develop new designs with elastic bands in both waist through the side lines and with velcro only at the back side. To remove twist in front contributes to reduce emission arising out of friction, also to free the appearance minding woman workers from worrying about exposed stomach. The new designs need to be accepted as a valuable alternative of Cleanroom Garment, in that they are highly effective to reduce dust-emission, which is the most important factor in the wear, in spite of some drawbacks in terms of motion-suitability, ease and appearance as shown in wearing test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2013

This study aimed to identify professional climbers'demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded 'knees', 'inner thighs' and 'hips' while their female counterparts most commonly responded 'inner thighs', 'exposed back and waist' and 'hips' in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.48-60
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the sociocultural meanings of flapper look in American society during the 1920s. Using the ProQuest database, I searched articles from The New York Times published between 1920 and 1929 for opinions and discussions on the flapper look. Keywords included "clothing," "dress," "fashion," and "flapper," and advertisements and articles on menswear, leisurewear, and bathing suits were excluded. In the resulting articles, I extracted the following sociocultural meanings: autonomy, activeness, practicality, attractiveness, and extravagance. Meanings were analyzed from the opinions and discussions focusing on skirt length, dresses that directly and indirectly exposed the body, heavy make-up, non-constricting underwear, the H-line dress, bobbed hair, hygiene, comfort, and consumption. In sum, the 1920s flapper look represented progressive characteristics such as autonomous and active womanhood and practicality, which matched the technological development of the time. However, the flapper look was commercialized and exploited to make women look attractive and extravagant. Even though American women had access to higher education, more economic power, and suffrage in the 1920s, they were limited in their ability to overcome social conventions and the power of consumerism. Understanding the double-sidedness of flapper look within the social context of the time would enhance the comprehension of the relationship between women's lifestyles and changing fashion.