• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.341-349
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• 1991

This study was done to provide basic data for clothing design and thus to contribute to the academic development of the clothing and textile area. The focus of this study was to charac­terize the somatotype based on each individual's lateral view. For this purpose, firstly, categorization of the subjects based on their lateral view and definition of each category, secondly, characterization of each somatotype, and thirdly, sugges­tion of the deterministic criteria of each category were complished. The subjects in this study were female college students of 18 to 26 year-old whose somatotypes were comparatively invariable after cessation of physical growth. The metrical items characterizing upper body lateral view were chosen. Data were collected through Anthropometry and Photometry and analyzed by Factor analysis. The results were as follows; 1. Each subject's side view contour was classified as straight type, lean-back type, bend­forward type, and swayback according to its position to the relative plumb line. Straight type was defined as the type in which the plumb line passes through the lobe of the ear, the shoulder joint, and the mid abdominal region laterally. Lean-back type positioned the plumb line more posteriorly than straight type. Bend-forward type positioned the plumb line more anteriorly than straight type. Swayback positioned the plumb line at about the same line as straight type. And curvature of side view contur was more prominent in this type than in straight type. 2. Seven factors were figured out. The first factor was representing upperbody volume, and the second factor was representing size, the third factor was horizontal distance from lateral view representing size view contour. The fourth factor was front body length, the fifth factor was back body length. The sixth factor was shoulder length and shoulder width representing shoulder shape. The seventh factor was the bust shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.71-78
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify body types of 800 female junior and high school students based on factor analysis, cluster analysis, and correspondence analysis of 15 photometric measurements of the subjects' lateral body lines. The results are as follows: The skeleton structure, which was represented the back bending by the photometric measurement, was already formed at age of 12 or 13, while the cervical skeleton, the size and inclination of the shoulder, and the degree of the lateral inclination of the upper body and the buttocks continued to grow by the age of 16. A factor analysis of the photometric measurement resulted in the sampling which determined the degree of the back bending, front-bust angle, and lateral view as well as the sampling whose factor represented the cervical inclination. A cluster analysis of the photometric measurement resulted in the four types of classification: Type 1, the straight type comprising 13.3% of the whole population; Type 2, the bent-forward type comprising 39.5%; Type 3, the lean-back type comprising 27.4%; and Type 4, the swayback type comprising 19.1%. Accordingly, the bent-forward type was found to be the dominant type among the four lateral body types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.795-806
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• 2001

This study is to classify the somatotypes of middle-aged women by many critera and figure out he characteristics of each somatotypes. The subjects are 614 middle-aged women between 35 and 59 years old and the research is based on anthropometric and photometric measurement by photographing their body parts. The results are as follows; 1. The result of factor analysis indicated that 11 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of varimax and those factors comprised 85.71 percent of total variance. 2. As the result of cluster analysis the group of the middle-aged women is classified as 6 types. Type 1 is short, fat, H type in front and lean-back type on the side. Type 2 is standard in height and weight. Type 3 is standard height, fat, long upper body, bend-forward type and protrude of the hip on the side. Type 4 is tall, thin, short upper body, having clearly protrude of the back and hip and lean-back type on the side. Type 5 is neither short nor tall, slim, X type in front and I type on the side. Type 6 is tall, thin and B type on the side. 3. As the result of observing the mutual corresponding relation between these 6 groups and age/Rohrers Index, the somatotype of the middle-aged women is divided at the age of 45. Accordingly when it comes to progress the study of the middle-aged women in the future, we will have to observe the characteristics for dividing the first half and the second half of age of 45.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.221-228
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare somatotypes from various classification methods, to analyze the interrelation among each somatotype or each high frequency type, and to suggest the basis to interpret body size and shape more accurately. As a sample, the subjects were 97 Korean females between 18 and 24 years old. They were measured both anthropometric and photographic measuring in November, 1999. Their somatotypes were classified by three kinds of classification methods. The first method was based on the lateral view of body, the second involved Factor and Cluster analysis with the photographic measurements of anterior and lateral body, and the third involved Factor and Cluster analysis with the anthropometric measurements of whole body. The upper body was classified into three types, and the lower body was classified into 6 types from the lateral view of body. The bend-forward/q-2 was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the lateral view of body', and the Straight/n-1 was found to be the 'Straight type from the lateral view of body'. From the classification by the analysis of photographic measurements, the anterior body was classified into three types, the lateral was classified into 4 types. The X/${\varepsilon}$ type was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the analysis of photographic measurements of anterior and lateral body'. From the classification by the analysis of anthropometric measurements, the whole body was classified into three types. The i type was found to be the 'High-frequency type from the analysis of anthropometric measurements of whole body'. The significant interrelation was certified among some somatotypes or some High-frequency types. We found that both the view of body and the statistical analysis would make the clear definition of each somatotype possible. In order to certify the representativeness of High-frequency type, further analysis would be required of subjects who were in the High-frequency type and their body parts were in the High-frequency range.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.17-27
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• 1998

The need for periodic investigation on human growth rate and somatotypes has been increased because the scientific development and environmental factors have effected a lot on them recently. This study aimed to investigate the changes of the 638 female somatotypes in the age of 18-54 obtained by direct and indirect measurement. The measurement data were divided into 4 groups early young women age group (18-54), late young women age group (25-34), early middle age group (35-44), late middle age group (45-54) and compared each other based on each group by age. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1. According to Mollison Curve based on the early young women, items of depth decreased overall and pp.P. length & shoulder length increased as the age increased. The circumference, breadth and thickness tended to increase, especially waist girth and thickness of waist increased markedly. The data showed that the increase rate of thickness was higher than that of breadth. 2. Gradual somatotype changes were observed by overlapping projection drawings obtained by direct measurement. Compared with the young women, the middle aged showed lower should point depth and hip line & crotch depth line were lengthened significantly. No significant difference was observed in overlapping of the early young women and the late young women' figure, neither was in early middle aged and the late middle aged. 3. By overlapping the side view of the young women group (18-37) and middle aged group (35-54), no significant postural characteristics were found, while the back tended to bend forward and the abdomen and hip appeared to get fat.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.321-332
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for more functional and more fitting clothing construction. The subjects were college women aged from 18 to 25 in June, 1997. Data were collected by anthropometry and photometry and analyzed by the characteristic of the upper body- The results are as follows: 1. After analyzing direct anthropometric data, 1 have analyzed the data by the characteristic in each somatotype, classified them and I have had 5 groups. Group 1 with middle height and standard type, group 2 with great height and standard type, group 3 with low height and slim type, group 4 with middle height and fat type, and group 5 with low height and a little fat type. 2. After analyzing indirect photometric data, 1 have analyzed them by the characteristic and I have had 4 groups. Group 1 with lean back type, group 2 with sway back type, group 3 with straight type and group 4 with bend forward type. 3. Through the mutual corresponding relation in the 5 groups classified with direct anthropometric measurement and the 4 groups classified with indirect photometric mea- surement, direct-group 1 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 2, comes second to indirect-group 4, and comes third to indirect-group 1. Direct-group 2 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 4, direct-group 3 comes the most corresponding to indirect- group 1, direct-group 4 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 3, and direct-group 5 comes the most corresponding to indirect-group 1.