• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.319-329
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• 2015

Submerged breakwaters are used to prevent shore line erosion and sediment transportation. One of their advantages is low visual impact. In this paper, the effects of discontinuous submerged breakwaters over water surface elevation was numerically studied considering the extended Boussinesq equations as governing equations using MIKE21 software. The result of discontinuous breakwater was compared with a beach without breakwater. The results showed that the gap dramatically effects on surface elevation from shore line to offshore. It is also evident from results that with approaching the center of the gap, fluctuation of surface elevation is generated. It is because of passing longshore currents towards offshore through the gap which leads to an increase in sediment transportation rate. Nevertheless, transferring water mass from breakwater gap results in powerful rip currents leading to high changes on longshore wave profile.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2007.10a
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• pp.225-228
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• 2007

This paper presents a geostatistical methodology to model local uncertainty in spatial estimation of sediment grain size with high-resolution remote sensing imagery. Within a multi-Gaussian framework, the IKONOS imagery is used as local means both to estimate the grain size values and to model local uncertainty at unsample locations. A conditional cumulative distribution function (ccdf) at any locations is defined by mean and variance values which can be estimated by multi-Gaussian kriging with local means. Two ccdf statistics including condition variance and interquartile range are used here as measures of local uncertainty and are compared through a cross validation analysis. In addition to local uncertainty measures, the probabilities of not exceeding or exceeding any grain size value at any locations are retrieved and mapped from the local ccdf models. A case study of Baramarae beach, Korea is carried out to illustrate the potential of geostatistical uncertainty modeling.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.101-114
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• 2019

In this study, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach, which is suffering from erosion problem. We obtain the basic equation (One Line Model for shoreline) for the numerical simulation by assuming that the amount of shoreline retreat or advance is balanced by the net influx of longshore and cross-shore sediment into the unit discretized shoreline segment. In doing so, the energy flux model for the longshore sediment transport rate is also evoked. For the case of cross sediment transport, the modified Bailard's model (1981) by Cho and Kim (2019) is utilized. At each time step of the numerical simulation, we adjust a closure depth according to pertinent wave conditions based on the Hallermeier's analytical model (1978) having its roots on the Shield's parameter. Numerical results show that from 2017.4.26 to 2017.10.15 during which swells are prevailing, a shoreline advances due to the sustained supply of cross-shore sediment. It is also shown that a shoreline temporarily retreats due to the erosion by the yearly highest waves sequentially occurring from mid-October to the end of October, and is followed by gradual recovery of shoreline as high waves subdue and swells prevail. It is worth mentioning that great yearly circulation of shoreline completes when a shoreline retreats due to the erosion by the higher waves occurring from mid-March to the end of March. The great yearly circulation of shoreline mentioned above can also be found in the measured locations of shoreline on 2017.4.5, 2017.9.7, 2017.11.7, 2018.3.14. However, numerically simulated amount of shoreline retreat or advance is more significant than the physically measured one, and it should be noted that these discrepancies become more substantial for the case of RUN II where a closure depth is sustained to be as in the most morphology models like the Genesis (Hanson and Kraus, 1989).

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.639-650
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• 2022

In areas where large-scale sediment transport occurs, it is important to apply appropriate countermeasure method because the phenomenon tends to accelerate by time duration. Among the various countermeasure methods applied so far, beach nourishment needs to be reviewed as an erosion prevention measure because the erosion pattern is mitigated and environmentally friendly depending on the particle size. In the case of beach nourishment. a detailed review is required to determine the size, range, etc., of an appropriate particle diameter. In this study, we investigated the characteristics of the related topographic change using the change in the particle size of nourishment materials, the application of partial area, and the condition under the coexistence of waves and wind as variables because those factors are hard to be analyzed and interpreted within results and limitation of that the existing numerical models are not able to calculate and result out so that it is required that phenomenon or efforts are reviewed at the same time through physical model experiments, field monitoring and etc. So we attempt to reproduce the tendency of beach erosion and deposition and predict possible phenomena in the future using machine learning techniques for phenomena that it is not able to be interpreted by numerical models. we used the hydraulic experiment results for the training data, and the accuracy of the prediction results according to the change in the training method was simultaneously analyzed. As a result of the study it was found that topographic changes using machine learning tended to be similar to those of previous studies in short-term predictions, but we also found differences in the formation of scour and sandbars.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.47-56
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• 2001

A numerical model for practical use based on the 1-line theory is presented to simulate shoreline changes due to construction of offshore structures. The shoreline change model calculates the longshore sediment transport rate using breaking waves. Before the shoreline change model execution, a wave model, adopting the modified Boussinesq equation including the breaking parameters and bottom friction term, was used to provide the longshore distribution of the breaking waves. The contents of present model are outlined first. Then to examine the characteristics of this model, the effects of the parameters contained in this model are clarified through the calculations of shoreline changes for simple cases. Finally, as the guides for practical application of this model, several comments are made on the parameters used in the model, such as transport parameter, average beach slope, breaking height variation alongshore, depth of closure, etc. with the presentation of typical examples of 3-dimensional movable bed experimental results for application of this model. Here, beach change behind the offshore structures is represented by the movement of the shoreline position. Analysis gives that the transport parameters should be taken as site specific parameters in terms of time scale for the shoreline change and adjusted to achieve the best agreement between the calculated and the observed near the structures.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2006.06b
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• pp.179-183
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• 2006

As there are many human activities in the coastal regions, various facilities and coastal engineering structures for protecting beach have been built. Dredging work, reclamation and harbor construction have caused the topography of sea floor to change rapidly. So sedimentation in the vicinity of the groins has get dull and the serious aspects sometimes turn up. Analyzing the surface sediments with transport vector model is one of the good methods to understand the sedimentation in the vicinity of the groins. I analyzed the transport vector of the surface sediments in the vicinity of the groins at the region where serious beach erosion happens near Pohang harbor.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.95-108
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• 2016

Several flights of marine terraces were developed along the Eastern coast of Korea (Gangneung-Donghae). Various dating techniques have been applied to determine the age of these terraces, with a view to better understand the regional uplift history. In this study, we compare the major element compositions of the terrace deposits and modern beach sediments to estimate the relative formation age of these terraces. We observed a discernible difference in major element geochemistry between modern beach sediments and various elevated terrace deposit (i.e. palaeobeach sediments). In general, weathering properties of marine terrace sediments are expected to be affected by the formation ages of terraces, and here, we confirm that the chemical composition are indicative of the relative age of the terraces in this region.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.203-213
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• 2024

This study aimed to investigate the seasonal patterns of multiple bar formation in summer and flattening in winter on the macrotidal Sinduri beach in Taean, and to understand the processes their formation and subsequent flattening. Beach profiling has been conducted regularly over the last four years using a VRS-GPS system. Surface sediment samples were collected seasonally along the transectline, and grain size analyses were performed. Tidal current data were acquired using a TIDOS current observation system during both winter and summer. The Sinduri macrotidal beach consists of two geomorphic units: an upper high-gradient beach face and a lower gentler sloped intertidal zone. High berms and beach cusps did not develop on this beach face. The approximately 400-m-wide intertidal zone comprises distinct 2-5 lines of multiple bars. Mean grain sizes of sand bars range from 2.0 to 2.75 phi, corresponding to fine sands. Mean sizes show shoreward coarsening trend. Regular beach-profiling survey revealed that the summer profile has a multi-barred morphology with a maximum of five bar lines, whereas, the winter profile has a non-barred, flat morphology. The non-barred winter profiles likely result from flattening by scour-and-fill processes during winter. The growth of multiple bars in summer is interpreted to be formed by a break-point mechanism associated with moderate waves and the translation of tide levels, rather than the standing wave hypothesis, which is stationary at high tide. The break-point hypothesis for multi-bars is supported by the presence of the largest bar at mean sea-level, shorter bar spacing toward the shore, irregular bar spacing, strong asymmetry of bars, and the 10-30 m shoreward migration of multi-bars.