• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.152-167
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• 2005

This study aims to aid hair fashion design for using hair style change by knowing the hair fashion images' characteristics. To accomplish this purpose, posed a questions to capital area university women students from June 3. 2005. to June 23. 2005. The hair fashion images' characteristics are; (1) avant-garde - unique style of every categories, (2) ethnic - korean style of center part, no volume, down chignon, inactivated texture, (3) romantic pretty - girl like cute style of long, wide wave, wide braid, center part or bang, activated texture, using pin or ribon, (4) elegance - graceful style of down point up style having wave, volume and activated texture, (5) sexy - sexual attractive style of long & wide wave or straight with high volume, activated texture(wet feeling hair styles also possible), (6) sophisticate - refined urban style of inactivated textured graduation and layered straight hair, (7) natural - inartificial style of no volume, inactivated long straight and binding hair, (8) sporty - activated style of activated and inactivated textured short hair.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.861-879
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• 2022

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.115-132
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• 2023

The globalization of Korean culture has spurred a steady increase in the participation of domestic fashion designers in global performance art. This study analyzes the formal elements of stage costume designs by fashion designers, and further evaluates the impact of these designers' aesthetic philosophies on overall performance. This analysis seeks to provide a foundation for the development of new directionality in performance art, with an enhanced competitiveness derived from diversity and creativity. The scope of this research spans 15 performances and eight fashion designers' works in the post-2010s era. These performances are characterized by their break from traditional artistic norms, illustrating the modernization of the performing arts and reflecting the designers' aesthetic philosophies. This modernization incorporates inspirations drawn from a diverse selection of movements, such as fusion, culture clash, kitsch, and minimal avant-garde. As a result, in combination with a pure reflection of the designers' aesthetics, these designs heighten overall performance, suggest a new direction for traditional performance art, tap into a popular sensibility to expand communication to a wider audience, and push the boundaries of tradition through artistic innovation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.122-135
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to classify achromatic color images adopted by contemporary fashion design in order to analyze the links between achromatic color images and fashion images. To this end, the study on the images of achromatic colors of White, grey, and black was conducted by reviewing related documents. In order to analyze the image factors affecting contemporary fashion design, the documents related to fashion history were consulted and in the case of fashion design factors and images, fashion looks using achromatic color as a main theme were referred. The results of this study are as follows : 1. An achromatic color is cold, calm and plain as well as modern. At the same time, it is abstinent and solemn so the color has been mainly used as religious garment. 2. An achromatic color used in apparels has been influenced by the developments of culture, art, society, ideology, politics, economy, science and technology. Black dress was introduced by Art Deco colors, little black dress by feminism, white by the popularity of sports, black becomes more popular by nihilistic beat and punk generations, moon look and cyber punk look were introduced for the advancement of science. Other apparel looks using the color are modern look, feminine look, futuristic look, mannish look, sportive look, and avant-garde look.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.22-32
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the aesthetic characteristics of check fashion of the 20th century and to analyze the formativeness for them shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) Before the First World War, check patterns were used for S silhouette dresses and hobble dresses. During the two wars, they were used for garçonne style dresses and military suits. Check patterns were used for mini style in the 1960s, uni-sex style in the 1970s, and power suits in the 1980s. Especially after the 1980s, check patterns have followed the fashion trend of each season and appeared in retro styles. Consequently, the aesthetic characteristics of check dresses of the 20th century are traditionality, ornamentation and eclecticism. 2) Traditionality of check fashion shown in recent collections was implied in the classic styles like suits with its grey glen check, avant-garde styles like boxy coat with its dark blue tartan check, and so forth. Ornamentation was shown in the modern styles like jackets decorated with block check colored white and black, casual styles like bomber jackets with hound tooth check colored white and black, and so forth. Eclecticism was reflected in the romantic styles like one-piece dresses with hound tooth check colored white and light blue, elegant styles like low-cut dress with its dark blue window pane check, ethnic styles like long cape with gingham check colored white and black, and so forth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.158-175
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2011

Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.1-17
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• 2022

In the fashion industry, the demand for new perspectives to express creativity has always been high. Expression of new perspectives allows creative ideas to emerge, thereby breaking away from habitual and familiar perceptions. The purpose of this study is to identify and analyze how the theory of defamiliarization is being applied in fashion design by the brand Münn, which claims defamiliarization as a design philosophy. The study examined the concepts and the characteristics of Viktor Shklovsky by literature review and derived the main characteristics of the defamiliarization theory for fashion design analysis based on studies that used defamiliarization in other fields. Furthermore, after analyzing Münn's collection, we found how the main characteristics of defamiliarization derived from reviews were expressed in Münn's designs. The defamiliarization in Münn's collection was first, 'breakaway from stereotype' appeared through re-recognition of perception and unexpected use of heterogeneous materials. Second, 'distortion and analogy through image' was revealed through the East and West clothing-making methods, which broke away from the stereotype of image and the juxtaposition and cultural reconstruction of details. Third, 'transition of viewpoint' was shown as an avant-garde sense through the conversion of usage purpose of design, material, or items in which subjects and objects were converted with conceptual design and material or silhouette.