• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.563-572
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• 2014

아르누보는 예술을 새롭게 개혁하여 젊게 만들고자 하는 목적에서 출발하였다. 역사상의 양식 모방에 반기를 들어 삶과 주변 환경의 총체적 변혁을 포괄하는 현대적이며 시류에 맞는 양식을 요구하는 운동이었다. 장신구 또한 이전의 양식에서 탈피한 새로운 양식을 구축하고자 하였으며 소재와 재료의 새로운 시도와 함께 장인적 기술력이 강조된 섬세한 장신구가 선보였다. 아르누보의 양식은 유럽 전반에 각기 나라의 문화에 맞추어 다양하게 전개되었으며, 짧지만 강렬하게 20세기 이후 양식의 기초가 되었다. 아르누보 이후의 장신구는 산업과 예술 장신구로 나뉘어 발전을 거듭해왔으며 현대에 이르기까지 많은 발전에 영향을 미쳤다. 아르누보는 장신구를 재화의 가치를 넘어서 예술적 가치로서의 확립을 이끌었다. 아르누보의 다양한 조형성을 통해 표현된 심미적 장신구와 생산력과 기능성에 치우친 단조롭고 귀보석 중심의 현대 장신구 디자인과는 차이를 갖는다. 현대에는 개성과 자아표출을 중시하는 문화 예술의 시대로 창의적, 독창적인 디자인을 추구한다. 따라서 시대적 배경과 사상을 통해 표현된 아르누보의 다채로운 색상 표현과 다양한 소재와 모티프의 장신구 양식은 현대 장신구의 새로운 디자인 개발 과 디자인 흐름을 이끌어 가기위한 귀감이 될 것으로 본다.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.39-51
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of Art Nouveau interior and furniture. For this purpose, the method of literature analysis was used. First, the general characteristics and background of Art Nouveau were investigated. Then the central architects of Art Nouveau were selected; Victor Horta, Henri Van do Velde, Hector Guimard, Antoni Gaudi and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and their interior and furniture works were investigate to understand the characteristics of Art Nouveau interior and furniture. Their intoner and furniture works were fantastic and their designs became the base of Bauhous, the beginning of modern design.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.143-159
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• 1994

Ornament in late nineteenth century Art Nouveau movement, especially abstract ornament in Viennese Art Nouveau, has a very complex aesthetical background. Ornament, for them was not just decorations in outer appearance, but a determinant element of formal languages. Abstract ornament in Viennese Art Nouveau has its theoretical and aesthetical bases in the Interpretation of nature, that is, the theory of the abstract ornament was founded on a new interpretation of nature, which, in its turn, was derived from the differentiational selection of the contemporary views of nature. The modernity of abstract ornament consists in the very fact that it was founded on a new interpretation of nature. This study alms at reviewing how the new interpretation of nature by abstract ornament criticized, rejected and accepted the contemporary views of nature. The overall tendency of this study is to synthesize and analyze the historical background of Viennes Art-Nouveau in regard to aesthetic theories of nature. The analysis method of this study is interpretation of written documents which are related to the issue.

• KIEAE Journal
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.73-80
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• 2009

In the early twentieth century, many architects still practised eclectic design elements. Emergence of new building materials such as steel, concrete and glass were not yet found fresh roles in architectural design. It was Brussels that the use of modern materials gave rise to their new forms and gave influence to not only building skins but also spatial organization. Art Nouveau architecture is often seen as revolutionary and pioneering modern architecture against eclectic classicism prevalent in the 18th and 19th centuries. Despite the fact that some scholars point out that Art Nouveau is more a transient phenomenon than modern architecture proper, no one would deny that Art Nouveau carries a good deal of modern characteristics. This paper intends to show rather ambivalent perspectives upon Art Nouveau architecture. Although it insinuates overly dynamic nature in architectural languages, it does not hamper us from reading Art Nouveau as a vital component of modern architecture. Through a careful analysis of the early domestic designs of Victor Horta, it becomes evident that his work can provide modern architecture a meaningful alibi for its growth. Victor Horta's house design is well known to the public, both for his classical tastes and for its changing implementation. Horta's modern quality is never adequately recognized, partly due to his eye catching modern iron properties and sinuous ornamentation. This paper tries to offer an insight into the complicated stage set of the fin-de-$si{\grave{e}}cle$ through the work of Victor Horta whose influence has been immense in the making of modern architecture.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2003

This study has as its primary aims the following: to create a fashion design based on the aesthetic value of Art Nouveau which flourished from the end of 19 century to the beginning of 20 century. In this thesis, two themes, Rose Aroma and Iris Memory are selected among the flower patterns and are used to create two works. First, the Rose Aroma theme is for an evening dress of S-curve style made with Silk Jacquard based on rose image of Art Nouveau. For decoration, artificial rose and its stem, and leaves are used to highlight hip line. By such design associated with a flower garden, cubic effects are expressed as a design point. Second, the Iris Memory theme is for a wedding dress made with tulle based on Iris image of Art Nouveau. This dress has a special point in its top bra, underwear used like an outer garment, involving spangle, beads, pearl, and cubic in order to enhance its visual effect. These works are significant in presenting the development possibilities of various fashion designs by introducing Art Nouveau style into diverse modern fashions.

• 융합정보논문지
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• 제11권9호
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• pp.208-213
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• 2021

본 연구는 아르누보의 특성을 활용한 아트 마스크 디자인 제안이다. 선행연구를 바탕으로 아르누보의 특성을 곡선적 표현, 여성적 표현, 자연주의적 표현, 반복적 표현으로 분류하였으며 각 특성에 따라 아르누보의 대표화가 구스타프 클림트의 작품을 4점 선정하였다. 선정된 작품을 모티브로 아트 마스크에 리디자인하였으며 작품 제작에 따른 결과로는 첫째, 아르누보의 특성을 아트 마스크에 디자인 할 수 있는 가능성과 방법론을 모색하였다. 둘째, 아트 마스크에 표현될 수 있는 범위와 방식을 넓혀 다양한 소재에 따른 접근성을 높였다. 셋째, 아트 마스크와 미술사조의 융합은 아트 마스크의 작업 조건에 충분했다. 이러한 연구결과를 토대로 향후 아트 마스크에 표현될 수 있는 소재가 무궁무진해지길 바라며 메이크업 분야로서 아트 마스크의 위상이 더욱 높아지길 기대해본다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제11권
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• pp.5-35
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• 2007

예술을 논함에 있어 '과학의 진보'와 '인간의 정서'라는 두 가지 문제의 상충은 끊임없이 대두되었다. 과학의 편리성, 그 이면에 존재하는 인간본연의 감성인 '자연'은 점차 크게 자리잡아갔다. 20세기말부터 성행하던 다소 삭막하게 느껴지는 미니멀리즘을 벗어나 점점 인간과 자연이 하나가 될 수 있는 자연주의가 강조되었고, '자연'은 21세기를 살아가는 우리에게 주어진 가장 중요한 화두로 떠올랐다. 기계와 과학에 의해 삶이 양적으로 향상되어질수록, 삶의 질을 향상시키고자 하는 '자연'에 대한 향수가 인간에게 더욱 절실하게 되었다. 이에 '자연'을 좀 더 효과적으로 나타내고자 아르누보양식의 표현요소를 도입하여, '자연'을 현대적으로 표현한 조형적 특성을 연구하였다. 아르누보는 자연물의 유기적인 형태로부터 모티브를 찾아 이것을 양식화하여 장식미술로 적용하였다. 이는 과거의 양식에서 인용과 절충을 반복하는, 역사주의적 전통을 과감히 개혁함으로써 현대디자인의 문을 열었고, 더불어 미술을 모든 생활에 실용화하려는 점에서 커다란 역사적 의미를 갖는 양식이다. 신예술을 의미하는, 19세기말부터 20세기 초에 걸쳐 번성했던 아르누보는 한 세기가 지난 현재에 와서 재평가되고 수용되어 다양하고 새롭게 나타나고 있다. '자연주의'를 근본으로 하는 아르누보 양식은 현대에 오면서 내추럴리즘이 주류를 이루고, 여성스런 로맨티시즘이 유행하면서 패션, 가구, 유리 공예, 보석 공예 등의 다양한 장르의 예술에서 모티브로 부활하고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 아르누보에서 나타난 식물모티브를 적용한 다양한 분야의 아르누보작가들의 작품을 중심으로 형태적 요소와 표현요소의 특성을 다양하게 해석하고, 이를 바탕으로 나타난 공통된 조형미를 분석하고자하였다. 아르누보양식에서 나타나는 섬세하고 화려한 곡선의 장식미와 형태의 부드럽고 유려한 곡선표현의 효과적인 디자인적용가능성을 살펴보고, 이를 통해 창의적으로 분석된 조형이미지로의 아르누보 식물모티브를 디자인에 새롭게 시도하는 계기가 되고자 한다.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study explored furniture and furniture designers in Art Nouveau which was called as Jugendstill in Germany. Jugendstill was developed on the center of Munchen, Darmstadt, and Berlin from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. And it was developed differently from Art Nouveau in the rest of European countries as the Rococo style and the Baroque style of Germany were done so. The furniture designers of Art Nouveau pronounced their use of decorative motifs from nature with birds, flowers, insects, fish, even landscape represented, but the designers in Jugendstill made the elaborate curvilinear design simply stylized and abstract: the design of Art Nouveau was seen as the superfluity of the ornament but the design of Jugendstill was seen as the simplified lines and restrain of the ornament. Hence, Jugendstill was deeply related with the scientific and rational thought of Germany, and then, it was based on the Deutscher Werkbund found by Hermann Muthesius.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.5-22
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• 2000

The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.