• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.438-444
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• 2011

Bamboo leaves, as natural dye provide unartificial fresh green, are known for expert property at anti-bacterial, anti-aging, anti-oxidation, skin whitening, moisturizing, peeling of horny, deodorizing and some skin disease like as eczema and inflammation without any allergic response. Also, It is quite common to obtain bamboo leaves from our surrounding but most of them were not in use. On purpose of development the way of recycle with common material to dye, bamboo leaves were used to dye on ramie fiber which is valuable for both of apparel and industrial field and investigated their dyeing property. Using extract from bamboo leaves, dyeing property was examined with dyeability, colorimetric property, light fastness and wash fastness under different conditions by extract density, dyeing time, dyeing method and mordants. As results, dyeing was generally colored in yellowish, K/S Value was shown more higher on hemp fiber than ramie. The most optimum dyeing condition was investigated on pre-mordant treatment, dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, dyeing time 30min and extract density 400%. On the treatment with mordant(Al, Fe, Cu), dyebility on both of hemp and ramie fiber were increased by mordant. Especially with Copper(Cu) as mordant, dyebility was highly increased than any other mordants and dyeings showed in deep color. Also on the fastness test which is the most important to natural dyeing, wash-fastness showed good performance with 4-5 grade but light-fastness was above 4 grade on both of hemp and ramie fiber, lower than wash-fastness overall.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.354-363
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to provide some preliminary results on application of 3D scan data of head shapes to the hat design and pattern-making. This paper defined necessary measurement items and concepts in 3-dimensional images of head shapes. And also it presented the methodology to pattern-making of 6-piece crown hat based on 3D data. It used the data of Size Korea to pick up and choose a head shape model with the average head size of Korean women in their twenties. Main results were: 1. The 3D scan data of head shape was better than the 1 dimensional measurement data. Because I could establish a hat pattern-making theory by the 3D scan data of head. 2. The 3D scan data provided the basis for conceptualization of basic measurement points and items for a better fit of hats as well as the definition of the basic hat circumference. 3. This presented a methodology for analyzing out head shape by 3D scan data, and allowed the derivation of the basic hat circumference from the maximum head circumference. 4. As the 6-piece Crown cloche hat made by this method fitted the head shape model perfectly, this methodology could suggest potential applicability to various hat design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.797-807
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• 2013

This study aims to provide basic information that would be useful to develop more specialized fashion design products for launching Korean Wave fashion, especially in Singapore market where Korean Wave culture has been expanding significantly. To identify recognition level of Korean Wave fashion, customer survey was conducted to females in their late 10s to early 20s. The analysis on the current fashion market also was made, which showed the result that the elegant style was dominant in the local fashion market. According to the customer survey result, K-pop was the most influential on Korean Wave. Amongst the female K-pop stars, 2NE1 was ranked the first who most of those surveyed wanted to copy her fashion style, and the ranking followed by Girl's Generation and BoA. With this result, it would be recommended to reflect K-pop star's style in designing fashion products as design and style turned out to be the most important factors that those surveyed considered upon clothing purchase. However, there should be various promotion activities in order to make Korea fashion brands known to the public because only 24.6% of those surveyed responded that they were aware of Korean fashion brands launched in Singapore market. Nevertheless, as those respondents were willing to buy Korean fashion brand products, there would be plenty of potential to succeed in Singapore market if there would be continuous efforts to raise Korean brand awareness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.834-840
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest practical considerations for designing protective clothing with increased visibility that will have higher user acceptance by law enforcement officers. Light-emitting diode(LED) patrol vests were visually and structurally assessed, and 125 police officers' responses from surveys about user acceptance of the vest were analyzed. The current LED patrol vest was designed for enhanced safety of police officers by increasing visibility in the dark. However, the user acceptance rate of the LED patrol vest indicates low use of and low satisfaction with the vest despite its enhanced safety features. In particular, differences in materials, design, functionality of the pockets and size of the vest depending on the hours worked, were statistically significant. The police officers' responses suggest areas of improvement in design, materials, ease of movement, size and functionality. Key issues include 'tactile discomfort'; 'impeded vision from the glare of the LED'; 'frequent malfunctions of the LED'; 'impossible repair of the broken LED units'; 'no user feedback'; 'inconvenient to replace batteries'; 'brittle materials' and 'unpleasing look'. To increase user acceptance, designer should incorporate context-awareness, a convenient user interface, a modular design approach, first responders' self-image as public servants in relation to their aesthetic perspectives of their uniforms, and scientific evaluation of the effectiveness of the intended functions of the clothing. Suggested implications for designing the LED patrol vest can be applied to designing other functional/protective clothing for intended end users with special needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.930-942
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to apply the expectancy disconfirmation model to consumer post-purchase behavior toward fast fashion brands. This study incorporated repurchase intention as a result of consumer satisfaction. It was hypothesized that consumer satisfaction, which is influenced by expectation, perceived performance, and disconfirmation, influences repurchase intention. It was also hypothesized that expectation influences performance. This study examined the brands and prices of the most recent purchases of fast fashion and also examined whether the purchases were planned or unplanned. The hypothesized path was tested and the relative influences of instrumental and symbolic performance on satisfaction were identified. Data were collected from questionnaires answered by 344 university students who were selected by convenience sampling. The results were as follows: 1) Purchased brands were, in the order of frequency of purchase, Uniqlo, Zara, H&M, and Forever21, followed by domestic brands, 8seconds, Spao, and Mixxo. The frequency of unplanned purchase was more than twice higher than planned purchase. 2) Based on expectation and performance, dissatisfactory group was larger than satisfactory group, which were 35.8% and 24.7% respectively. 3) It was revealed from the expectancy disconfirmation model analysis that expectation and performance had positive influence, but cognitive dissonance had negative influence on satisfaction. Satisfaction had significant influence on repurchase intention. The path analysis showed that all hypothesized path coefficients were significant. The results suggest some effective marketing strategies for marketers in the fast fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.25-38
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to develop a dress form for elderly women according to their somatotype to be used for improving the fit of garments and patterns. Analyzing each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the 4 somatotypes in most of measure items. Bend-forward Group had shorter front length items. Abdomen-fat Group had lower upper-body values than Average Group and similar lower-body values to Fat Group. In most items except height, Fat Group had the biggest values. Analyzing the mean cross-section according to the section measurement parts, no difference existed in shoulder part and under bust part. However, in upper bust, bust, waist, abdomen, high hip, and hip parts, a significant difference existed. Also, according to the results of the mean cross-section as well as the average cross overlap section for each somatotype, there was a significant difference among the four somatotypes. Thus, Abdomen-fat Group and Fat Group were similar, while Bend-forward Group and Average Group were alike. According to the increase of age, lower body tended to have more conspicuous changes. Analyzing the profile of somatotypes, there existed a obvious significant difference among the 4 somatotypes, implying that the characteristics of somatotype need to be reflected when to develop dress forms for elderly women. Therefore, these differences must be an essential factor in pattern design. Comparing the current dress form with the dress form developed with simulation, we could find that a dress form developed for elderly women which reflects the characteristics of body shape is much better than a dress form developed by simple size variation such as small, medium and large size divisions to improve the fit of garments and pattern designs.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.77-95
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• 2005

This study was for applying web based street fashion design analysis system(web-SFAS), which was designed in preceding research and realized, to a practical use. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. This study was collected in 2004 s/s 177 points image data and survey results input to the system This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, in all four areas of S/S, many people wear soft materials and plain T-shirts on top and tough material and plain jeans on the bottom. Second, In the case of dresses, in many areas people wear tough fabric plain A-line, one-piece dresses but in Hapsung-dong, many people wear geometrical figures. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi casual in a close second. Therefore, web-SFAS can be useful system analyzing for the trendy apparel type, design, material, color, image and variable in demography through street fashion image data.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.12 no.9
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• pp.3815-3826
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• 2011

TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.458-468
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• 2021

In the context of Sustainable development, China, the world's second-largest apparel market, is also concerned about the environmental impact of fiber waste. Currently, there is a great interest in sustainable fashion in both supply and demand in China. Based on the theory of planned behavior(TPB), the determinants of sustainable fashion consumption(SFC) of Chinese consumers were evaluated in this study: man-nature orientation(MNO) and environmental knowledge(EK) as motivation and perceived online-store accessibility(POA) and perceived money availability(PMA) as barriers. Wenjuanxing, a Chinese professional survey collection agency, conducted an online survey of millennials in Shanghai, China. The final sample size for the survey was 215. Partial least squares structural equation modeling was employed to test the proposed hypotheses. The results indicated that attitudes, subjective norms, and perceived behavioral control significantly affected the purchase intention towards sustainable fashion products. MNO and EK influenced the attitude, whereas EK, POA, and PMA influenced perceived behavioral control. This study contributes to the TPB literature through the examination of four antecedents: MNO, EK, POA, and PMA. The findings provide valuable insights for retailers and markets based on the identification of the motivations and barriers that enhance the purchasing intention of Chinese millennials toward SFC.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia