• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.13-28
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• 1989

With the purpose of identifying clothing for persons with special needs one of new directions in Clothing and Textiles, this pater comparatively analyzed current curriculum and research trends related to this field between Korea and America. Questionaire was distributed to 25 Korean colleges with Clothing and Textiles department and 4 American colleges known for special clothing study. Questions regarded the name of course, level (grade), number of credit houre, prerequisits and supporting courses, subjects of lecture and projects, way of managing lecture and projects, evaluation system, other special characteristics. Resources for analyzing research trends are Thesis and Dissertations in Clothing and Textiles, Research Journal of Clothing & Textiles/Home Economics Association, College Professors' research reports collection, of both Korea and America. Years of publications are 1972∼1986 (America), 1978∼1988 (Korea). Findings are as follows; 1. Clothing for special needs can be classified into various groups; Clothing for physically handicapped, mentally retarded, elderly, unusual-sized, pregnant/nursing mothers, institutionalized, protective clothing, uniform/career apparel. 2. Management of coursework related to special clothing has several common characteristics specially in America; Building-up coursework, problem-solving orientation, cooperative team-preject, interdisciplinary approach, client-versus-designer preference, community involvement. In Korea, a few school only has special clothing coursework and its scope of study was very limited. 3. Majority of research reports done with the subjects of special clothing had made for physically handicapped people and the elderly. Protective clothing and uniform have recently been paid much interests. 4. Researchers had mainly concerned on Design and Construction Aspects and nextly on social-psychological aspects. However, in America, selection and care aspects and marketing aspects of special clothing have been very procuctive issues recently. 5. Study on clothing for special needs has several opportunities to be stressed and improvements to be strengthened. Opportunities included active participation to the welfare of community society, strong publicity of accurate professional image, share with business and industry, interdisciplinary approach and new job market. Improvements were discussed in terms of strengthening supporting courses/prerequistes, intensifying interdisciplinary cooperation, provoking strong community involvement and securing financial support and research funds.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.162-171
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For these purposes, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 firms with annual production capacity of more than 200,000 pieces among clothing brands for the domestic market, clothing exporters and promotion agencies. Those interviewed firms were the companies who were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and the interview-based survey was conducted from December 18, 2008 to January 30, 2009. The key findings from this study are as follows; first, a high percentage of interviewed firms were producing only a small number of items in Korea with a large part of their production line transferred abroad or outsourcing all of their production abroad only with their headquarters in Korea. Second, many were employing contractors rather than their own factories. Third, when asked about the wage levels of clothing manufacturers, many of the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'They are just our contractor, so we respect their decision,' 'We don't know because it's none of our business,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fourth, when asked about the work environment of clothing manufacturers, the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'We know in part,' 'To our knowledge, they conform to the Labor Standards Law,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fifth, the production line of clothing manufacturers featured straight-line systems, specialization, pairing and compounding/mixing. Sixth, it was found that clothing companies had interest in mass customization but their preparations were not satisfactory.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.564-579
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• 2014

Packaging of shopping bag is a 'silent salesman' which plays an important role in marketing communication due to the increase of self-service outlets and changing lifestyles of customers. Retail shopping bags, which are defined as bags provided by retailers to customer as a means of transporting merchandise, are a type of secondary packaging. This study explored the effect of a fashion product's shopping bag types in sense of shopping value, customers' response, attitude toward advertising, and purchase intention. Data was analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, correlation, structural equation modeling using SPSS 18.0 and AMOS 18.0. The results of this study were as follows. Consumers' responses about shopping bags show that there are some differences between consumers who have either hedonic or utilitarian shopping value. Hedonic shopping value influences on consumers' response as unique, interesting, and attention; however utilitarian value affects prestige in addition to those four significant factors. Therefore, this study shows that consumer response is different in accordance with shopping value. Thus, using the various types of shopping bags can be influenced on effective advertising. It will also great effect on marketing activity with lower cost. The significant result from this study has proven that the shopping bag is correlates to the definition of pop art today because it can offer an opportunity to look at, play with and buy sophisticated visual stimulus. Therefore, retail and brands have to concern about shopping bag considering their decisive role in the apparel market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.739-747
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• 2008

There have been increasing consumption of luxury fashion and recent marketing researches on luxury syndrome, trading up, etc. in mass fashion today. Historically the consumption of luxury had been concentrated on only upper class in the past. But since 20th century, the mass consumers of modern consumptive society show their interests in luxuries which had been preoccupation of few elite class. Accordingly, it can be thought that the historical review on the changes in the meaning of luxury should be necessary for a better understanding of modern luxury consumption in sociocultural context. The purpose of this study is to grasp the sociocultural meaning of luxury in modern fashion with a holistic viewpoint by examining the changes of luxury consumption in mass fashion. It will be helpful as a conceptual approach of modern luxury consumption. For this, the documentary study has been executed. It focused on since 20th century, which can be the root of mass productive and consumptive society in fashion history. The results are as follows. The luxury in court elite system before 20th century had been concentrated on few elite class exclusively but gradually began to be represented as inferior cheaper version by mass production according to their increasing interests since industrial revolution. The luxuries in elite designer system in the first half of 20th century were represented as illegal design piracy and legal genuine reproduction in spite of problems brought about between originality and copy. The concept of mass as consumer was virtually alienated in both systems. But in fashion system since the second half of 20th century, various types of consumer luxuries has appeared on account of the trading up phenomenon in drastic growth of mass culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.477-488
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• 2016

This study classified and analyzed the types of images posted on official accounts operated by domestic and foreign SPA brands on Instagram and Pinterest, which are image-based fashion curations, and performed a survey on preferred image types in the fashion curations of SPA brands. It aims to induce active apparel purchasing behavior of consumers through the suggestion of image types about fashion curations for effective communication between fashion brands and consumers. The survey to targets the 20s and 30s was carried out from October 23, 2015 until November 22 and conducted factor analysis, paired t-test. The above images were classified into four types based on previous studies: product images, brand images, lifestyle images, multiple images. The results of the survey were also divided into four factors in line with the classification of image types. Generally, foreign SPA brands(H&M, Uniqlo, Zara) used image-based fashion curation services more frequently than domestic SPA brands(8Seconds, Mixxo, Spao, Tngt). The analysis of image types in the fashion curations of SPA brands showed that product images accounted for the highest proportion of images used in the official accounts of SPA brands. However, the comparison of averages on the preferred image types of survey respondents showed that the users who had once visited the official accounts of SPA brands on Instagram and Pinterest preferred in the order of lifestyle information > product information > brand information > multiple information provided by SPA brands, which was statistically significant.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.405-420
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the differences between clothing size satisfaction and clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA (specialty retailer of private label apparel) brands according to height group, and provide foundation material that can be used to establish product strategy from the perspective of Korean SPA brand clothing sizes in order to secure competitiveness in the international market. Satisfaction of tall women in their twenties with the clothing sizes of SPA brands was researched, and t-test was conducted to examine differences between clothing size satisfaction of Korean and foreign SPA brands between the two height groups. Then, differences in the size minimum and maximum values, size ranges, size intervals and size numbers between clothing sizing systems of Korean and foreign SPA brands were researched and comparatively analyzed. Existing clothing sizes need to make improvements considering the lengths and shoulder width of tall consumers. And Korean SPA brands need to diversify the range and number of sizes in the clothing sizing system, and set a separate tall-size group, or apply the relationship between vertical and horizontal sizes of clothing to establish a clothing sizing system. A product strategy that applies the results of this study will solve the clothing size dissatisfaction of tall female consumers and stimulate sales of Korean SPA brand clothing products. The study has value in that it extracted realistic problems by researching clothing sizing systems of products that are actually sold.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.454-464
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• 2012

In this study, fitness tests for slacks were divided into shape fitness test and motion fitness test, and the fitness test conditions for slacks were designed as the first step for standardization of measuring scales. Shape fitness test consisted of analyzing the parameters of appearance sensory tests as described in preceding studies, performing a simulated appearance sensory test, collecting and considering apparel experts' opinions about the test parameters, and establishing test conditions in terms of test regions, descriptions and faces. For the regions of the abdomen, hip, crotch, thighs, and knees, the parameter of unnecessary wrinkle/stretch was observed from the anterior and posterior body, and then evaluated; for waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the parameters of ease and horizontality were observed from the anterior body and posterior body followed by evaluation; and, at the levels of waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the division of the lateral line were observed from the lateral body followed by evaluation. Motion fitness test was composed of reviewing and analyzing comparatively the methods of motion fitness tests as mentioned in preceding studies, and establishing test conditions in terms of test motions and test regions. For each of the waist, abdomen, hip, crotch, and knees, wear sensation was tested in the positions as follows: upright standing, moderate walking, chairsitting, bending forward to the maximum, and kneeling down, provided that as the measured points of garment pressure, anterior waist, abdominal protrusion, buttock protrusion, crotch, and midpatella were set and tested.