• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.139-156
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate various information relating to research on the dimensions of clothing used in the sale of products via the internet that used to target global SPA((Specialty Store Retailer of Private Label Apparel) brands sold in Korea. A total of 12 SPA brands including seven global SPA brands and five national. SPA brands were surveyed in this study. Brands were chosen net sales and consumer preferences the last three years. In all SPA brands, literal size designation such as S, M, L and numeric size designation such as 0, 2, 4 or 32, 34, 36 etc. were mixed, but in case of Jean, the size codes mark waist circumference were dominant. European size codes were more common in case of European brands while literal codes were more dominantly used for American size codes with in the US brands. By reviewing the measurement information of the body and product size, the product measurement methods of UNIQLO, FOREVER 21 and TOPTEN were much more accountable and excellent than other brands. However, most of the others didn't offer proper information such as pictograms or figures about measurement methods relating body sizes and product sizes. In addition, most of global SPA brands offered size conversion chart which consumers could reference, however of none of the national SPA brands offered a conversion size chart on their website. Regardless of the type of clothing, the coverage of clothing size was higher than in global SPA brands such as H&M GAP compared to national SPA brands. In particular, 8seconds did not present apparel size ranges that fit consumers' individual clothes sizes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.47-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop a basic sloper for pants that would be appropriate for young Korean school girls between the ages of 6 to 11 years old. Pants available in the apparel market for children do not properly correspond to the body size of the target consumer group. This research explores the characteristics of the body size of the group and also identifies problems of the conventional pants sloper that would be generally used for the production of children's apparel. Ultimately it presents a basic sloper for a possible use for manufacturing. The basic slopers for pants were collected from three different companies and were the examples used for this study. An experimental pants sloper was developed, reflecting the average body size of a nine year-old girl, which Is thought to be the master size for grading in children's wear Four different cotton prototype pants were made based on the three companies' slopers and the experimental one for evaluation of the fit and overall shape of the pants on subjects. The results revealed that the design, fit, and overall look of the experimental pants was superior to that of the opposing companies' product. After alteration of the experimental sloper, a basic pants sloper was finalized. The finalized pants sloper was determined at W/4+1cm for the front waist and W/4+2cm for the back, H/4+0.5cm for the front hip and H/4+1.5cm for the bark hip, and 73cm for its length with 15.5cm and 18cm for its front and back pants width at the bottom, respectively.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.85-99
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to survey the current state of tween generation boys' clothing-wearing, to identify problems in the current apparel sizing system, and to contribute to the improvement of the fitness of ready-made clothes. 1. According to the result of surveying the current state of clothing-wearing, boys prefer casual wear and, as they grow old, they tend to purchase clothes alone or in company with their friends. In addition, they use mainly easy casual wear or sports wear stores. They appear to be highly dissatisfied with price and size and think that the fitting of coats, pants and jackets is poor. Moreover, they complain about sizes such as waist circumference, pants length and upper-arm circumference. 2. According to the result of comparing apparel sizing system with body measurements, the waist circumference and hip circumference of young casual wear are fit to the large size of body at the age of 12 and the over-average size of body at the age of 13 and 14, but its bust circumference is fit only to the extra-large size of body at the age of 13 and 14. Such results come from differences in body shape between adults and adolescents. Although adolescents' body size has been enlarged, their body line is still immature and, accordingly, their drop-value is smaller than that of adults, which appears to cause adolescents to be highly dissatisfied with fitting.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.25-34
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• 2024

This study investigates consumer awareness and concerns regarding apparel sizing in the realm of online shopping. A survey was conducted with 450 women aged 18-59 who had engaged in online clothing purchases within the past year. It was observed that consumers shop for clothes online an average of 1.6 times per month, with those under 50 shopping more frequently. The importance of size is higher when buying pants than jackets, especially in online shopping compared to offline purchases. Key references guiding online shopping decisions encompassed product sizing codes, customer reviews, and garment dimensions, which were notably favored by consumers with significant concerns. Respondents opted for Korean-style sizing codes for jackets but chose inch-sizing codes for pants. While awareness of height and weight remains high, knowledge of specific body measurements crucial for clothing size design is lacking, suggesting inadequate communication of size information. Respondents prioritized specific areas for jacket and pants fit, yet the lack of comprehensive self-measurements beyond height and weight might present challenges in determining fit based solely on product dimensions. To address this issue, online retailers should display essential garment dimensions and visually suggest clothing sizes according to various body types. These findings provide valuable insights for online retailers to effectively present size information and lay a foundational framework for consumer size education.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.68-79
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• 2009

It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.628-639
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to propose a model of private brands proneness form-ation considering the six private brands proneness-related variables simultaneously. Since the theoretical framework is based on previous research in various areas, it serves as an integrative one. Data were collected via intercept surveys conducted at nine regional branches of two major department stores situated in Seoul. Participants(n=1,120), who had previously purchased women's private brand apparel, were asked to complete a questionnaire during two weeks from March 15, 1999 to March 28, 1999. LISREL and SPSS PC+ were used to test the model and analyze its variables. The fitness of the model show the reasonable fit between all indices(RMSR=.036, GFI=.99, AGFI=.92, and NFI=.95). The proposed model supports all the hypothesized relationships. Private brands proneness increases as perceived money value of products, familiarity, positive store image of private brands, and satisfaction of individuals' differentiated needs increase. Furthermore, perceived money value of products increase as perceived risk of private brand purchase and perceived quality variation between private brand products and manufacture's products decrease.