• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 1999.10a
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• pp.57-64
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• 1999

Pericarpium castaneae extracts have variously potent activities, such as anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity. in vivo and in vivo studies both indicate that pericarpium castaneae extracts acts as a flee radical scavenger ($IC_{50}$/: 7.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) stronger than gallic acid($IC_{50}$/: 12.5$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) and ellagic acid($IC_{50}$/: 15$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) which could prevent cutaneous UV damages and skin aging. The extracts showed a good effect as a anti-oxidant ($IC_{50}$/: 50$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml). It was shown that the appearance of wrinkle in human skin was reduced by topical application of pericarpium castaneae extracts. And the treatment of human skin with the extracts increased the elasticity and moisture of the skin. We investigated the effect of tile pericarpium castaneae extracts on production of extracellular matrix using cultured A431 fibroblast cells. The results indicated that the extracts had no detectable effect on collagen synthesis, But synthesis of cell adhesion protein was increased by the extracts. The results suggest that increase of cell adhesion protein synthesis by pericarpium castaneae extracts has closely related to reduction of wrinkle in skin.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.464-478
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• 2003

Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage and aging. The extract of tinged autumnal leaves of maple tree(Acer palmatum) has proven to be a powerful antioxidant. The Acer palmatum extract is very effective on the stabilization of biological membranes( containing unsaturated fatty acid). We studied photoprotective effect of the extract against UVB-induced cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes. The extract improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. In the determination test of pro inflammatory cytokines the extract decreased expression of interleukin 1 a and 6, which play an important role in inflammation and skin erythema caused by UV. We also studied property of varying cosmetic formulations on the percutaneous absorption of the extract. After 24 hour in vitro penetration study, the content of the extract was more highly detected in skin residue part. This result showed the extract had relatively high compatibility of skin in our emulsion system. On human skin, after appling the product containing the extract we obtained a good result of antiwrinkle effect by skin visiometer. In conclusion, the Acer palmatum extract is a photoprotective and very effective in stressed and aged skin care. And we can predict the extract mainly affects on the skin cell and tissue in our emulsion system.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.2 s.43
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• pp.131-147
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• 2003

In the 21st century, the development of cosmetics is led to pursue the high functionality of cosmetics with excellent effectiveness and safety. As Cosmetic Act took effect in 2000, functional cosmetics is provided in the law. As a result, the research and development of functional cosmetics has continually increased, and the number of patent applications in functional cosmetics has also rapidly increased as a plan for preoccupying in the functional cosmetics age. Now, the cosmetic industry has a great interest in developing anti-wrinkle cosmetics among functional cosmetics, because women's desire for having young resilient skin has increased since Korea entered an aging society thanks to the advanced medical technology. The patent application trends of anti-wrinkle cosmetics at home since 2000 particularly show the rapid increase in the applications in natural plant extracts. It may be because Korean consumers preference of vegetable cosmetics has resulted in the development of raw materials based on the traditional medicine. As for the existing preparation such as Retinoid or Ascorbic acid, the patent application itself will be an essential technical element in the future because patent applications are filed in the field of a preparation of cosmetics for stabilizing ingredients, reducing skin irritability or promoting absorbance, and in the field of cosmetic formulation technology. As there are many studies on the causes of skin wrinkles, it is expected that new raw materials of cosmetics can be developed due to new mechanisms, and that the number of patent applications in new technologies will increase due to a change in the thought of cosmetics accompanied by the integration of cosmetics with biotechnology using Genetic Engineering, including the practical application of the medicine previously used far treating skin diseases to an anti-wrinkle agent and the mass production of active ingredients of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.303-309
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• 2008

Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of elastic fibers, and promotion of reactive oxygen species formation are important factors for deterioration of skin function. They induce wrinckle formation and decrease skin elasticity. Vitamin C and its derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for anti-aging effects but their chemical instability has been a major problem. In an attempt to develop a novel anti-aging agent with a improved stability and bioactivity, the anti-wrinkle effect of 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative, was investigated in this study. VCCE increased procollagen type-1 synthesis in a dose-dependent manner (149% at 0.002%) in cultured fiboroblasts. Its potent anti-wrinkle effect was confirmed in vivo by analyzing human skin replica by a visiometer and the PRIMOS system. It did not cause any irritation in human patch test. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits applicable to cosmetics for anti-wrinkle effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.69-74
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• 2006

Selaginella tamariscina with the popular Korean name Keoun Back, is a traditional medicinal plant for therapy of advanced cancer patients in the Orient. In this study, we evaluated anti-aging activity of S. tamariscina using processed technology and investigated diverse biological activities of processed S. tamariscina (PST) as an anti-aging ingredient of cosmetics. PST, heated with sand, used to different purpose compared with origin in medicine. PST raises total phenol concentration and enhances the DPPH radical scavenging activity. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity, the cultured human dermal fibroblasts were analyzed by increase in dichlorofluorescein (DCF) fluorescence upon exposure to UVB $20 mJ/cm^2$ after treatment of PST. UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced in a dose-dependent manner by PST. Taken together, 4hese results suggest that PST may act as an anti-aging agent by preventing the skin cell from damage induced by UV irradiation, and imply that PST may be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.184-191
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• 2003

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 2002

In the aged skin especially in the face and eyelid, deep and slight wrinkles are one of the remarkable phenomena of aging and the cause of wrinkle is various. Among the cause of wrinkles an oxidative stress plays an important roles in wrinkle formation process. It caused the lipid peroxidation of cell membrane, the increase of the MMPs(MatrixMetalloProteinase) gene expression and cellular DNA damage. These ROS induced materials may cause the degradation of collagen matrix system in the dermis and cause the formation of skin wrinkle. So, it is very important for protecting skin wrinkle formation to regulate ROS activity. In this study, we developed one active ingredient having multi functional activities such as activation of collagen synthesis, inhibition of MMPs activity, lipid peroxidation and free radical scavenging activity and inhibition of free radical induced DNA damage in vitro. Pericarpium castaneae extracts showed collagen synthesis increase in Normal Human Fibroblast and the inhibition of elastase activity (IC$\_$50/ of Elastase: 43.9$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖). It showed also anti-oxidative activity (IC$\_$50/ : 48$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖) and free radical scavenging activity(IC$\_$50/: 7.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/㎖). Conclusively, Pericarpium castaneae extracts may be used as an ingredient for new anti-wrinkle cosmetics.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.63-72
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• 2018

As Korea's representative medical text, "Donguibogam" reveals Korean Medicine's unique perspective on the human body. The text also contains abundant resources related to skin, leading to diverse researches on the subject today. In this paper, authors tried to elicit values of "Donguibogam" in the general cosmetics field, through literature review. First, prescriptions related to main functions of modern cosmetics (anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing) were classified. In relation to anti-aging, concepts such as 返老 (reversing aging), 還童 (to become young again), 皺 (wrinkle), and 皮急 (tense skin) were extracted and 69 examples of treatments were introduced. For whitening care, 41 treatments were mentioned on hyper-pigmentation and general complexion. Concepts related to moisturizing included expressions such as 潤肌膚 (hydration of skin) and 光澤 (glow), induced by 48 treatment prescriptions. Second, cosmetics related prescriptions were classified according to the application methods of modern cosmetics. 78 prescriptions of cleansing category included washing-off local area with herbal liquid, bathing, washing-off after steaming, and soaking the body in the herbal liquid. Total of 308 topical application prescriptions covered the conditions of various skin inflammations, scalp illnesses, and etc. In conclusion, this research examines the value of "Donguibogam" as a useful of skincare. Further studies are expected to extend our understanding of the field.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-23
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• 1998

Inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (chestnut) has been used as an anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent from the ancient time in east Asia. In order to develop new anti-aging and anti-wrinkle, ethanolic extract of inner nutshell of Castanea mollisima BL (Cor-285) was prepared and various biological activities were evaluated. Cor-285 showed potent antioxidant activity, Especially, Cor-285 possessed potent free radical scavenging activity in vitro (IC50:7.6 g/ml) compared to gallic acid (IC50:12.5 g/ml), Cor-285 showed the preventive effect against UV-induced cytotoxicity of fibroblast at concentration of 25-250 g/ml. When Cor-285 was evaluated for its anti-allergic activity, it effectively inhibited histamine release from mast cells induced by compound 48/80 (86% inhibition at 10 mg/ml). The inhibitory activity was stronger than that of glycyrrhiznate. Cor-285 also showed in vivo inhibition against delayed hypersensitivity as well as croton-oil induced ear edema in mice when topically applied These results strongly suggest that Cor-285 may reduce immunoregulatory 1 inflammatory skin trouble. From the attempts to isolate the constituents, citropten (simple coumarin) and ellagic acid, a well known radical scavenger, were isolated. In a clinical trial of twenty healthy volunteers with aged skin,6 weeks application of Cor-285 (3% cream) decreased wrinkle about 26% and increased moisturizing 20% on the skin. All of these results indicate that Cor-285 may be an effective anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.213-216
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• 2005

To develop a new anti-skin aging cosmetics or functional foods by using elastase inhibitor, a potent elastase inhibitor was screened from various extracts of medicinal plants and its optimal extraction condition was investigated. Methanol extracts of Rubi fructus showed the highest elastase inhibitory activity of 85%. The elastase inhibitor of Rubi fructus was maximally extracted when it was treated with 80% methanol at $50^{\circ}C$ for 12hr and its elastase inhibitory activity $(IC_{50})$ was 0.52 mg.