• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.18 no.9
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• pp.1613-1619
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• 2008

It has been reported that Tat-SOD can be directly transduced into mammalian cells and skin and acts as a potential therapeutic protein in various diseases. To isolate the compound that can enhance the transduction efficiency of Tat-SOD, we screened a number of natural products. 3-O-[$\beta$-D-Glucopyranosyl(1$\rightarrow$4)-$\alpha$-L-arabinopyranosyll-hederagenin (OGAH) was identified as an active component of Fatsia japonica and is known as triterpenoid glycosides (hederagenin saponins). OGAH enhanced the transduction efficiencies of Tat-SOD into HeLa cells and mice skin. The enzymatic activities in the presence of OGAH were markedly increased in vitro and in vivo when compared with the controls. Although the mechanism is not fully understood, we suggest that OGAH, the active component of Fatsia japonica, might change the conformation of the membrane structure and it may be useful as an ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics or as a stimulator of therapeutic proteins that can be used in various disorders related to reactive oxygen species (ROS).

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.265-271
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• 2021

Nanoparticles are substances that are smaller in size and smaller than cells that make up the skin. Therefore, they are very suitable as mediators for transmitting drugs or genes across cell membranes, and also deliver specific ingredients into the skin.In this study, nanoparticles were extracted from mugwort and particles of around 100 nm were obtained through dynamic light scattering (DLS), and the results of concentration-dependent enhancement of cell viability in fibroblasts were obtained through MTT assay. In addition, it was confirmed that the COL1A1 mRNA expression level was increased and the IL-6 mRNA expression level was decreased through the quantitative real-time PCR analysis method. Moreover, as these nanoparticles were confirmed to be stable, they can be applied not only to cell experiments but also to cosmetic formulations. While the demand for plant-derived ingredients continues to increase, excluding chemical ingredients from the recent cosmetics industry trend, there is a limitation in that there are few research results suggesting the application field of plant-derived nanoparticles. Therefore, in order to overcome the limitations of the cosmetic industry at the present time, the results obtained in this study present nanoparticles derived from Artemisia princeps (NDAP) as a highly functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.199-210
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• 2011

This study was conducted to develop functional sources of herbal cosmetics for treatment of skin aging and inflammatory disorders using volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions including Cnidium officinale Makino (COM), Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN), Mentha arvense L. (MAL), Artemisiae argyi Folium (AAF), Paeonia lactiflora Pall (PLP), Rehmanniae Radix Preparata (RRP), Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG), Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer (PGM), Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch (GUF). The volatile flavor extracts of four different herbal medicinal prescriptions (HH-1: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, HH-2: COM, AGN, PLP, RRP, SBG, PGM, GUF, HH-3: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, HH-4: COM, AGN, MAL, AAF, SBG, PGM, GUF) were extracted using SDE and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects were measured by using DPPH radical and SLO, respectively. As a result, HH-2 showed moderate DPPH radical scavenging activity (68.24 %) and the strongest SLO inhibitory activity (83.96 %) at 100 ${\mu}g$/mL. Moreover, HH-2 of four different prescriptions significantly inhibited NO production on LPS-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells in a dose-dependent manner without considerable cell cytotoxicity at range of 2.0 ~ 50 ${\mu}g$/mL. Additionally, HH-2 also effectively suppressed the production of $PGE_2$ and IL-6, which are responsible for promoting the inflammatory process. Major volatile components of HH-2 were identified as eugenol, paeonol, butyl phthalide, ${\beta}$-eudesmol and butylidene dihydrophthalide by GC-MS analysis. Thus, these results suggest that HH-2 may be useful as a potential source of anti-inflammatory agents in herbal medicinal cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.189-196
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• 2022

Plasma refers to an ionized gas that is often referred to as "the fourth phase of matter", following solid, liquid, and gas. Plasma has traditionally been utilized for industrial applications such as welding and neon signs, but its promise in biomedical fields such as cancer treatment and dermatology has lately been recognized. Indeed, due to its beneficial effects in promoting collagen production, improving skin tone, and eliminating harmful bacteria in the skin, plasma treatment constitutes an important target for dermatological research. In this study, a plasma device for cosmetic manufacturing based on nitrogen, the main component of the atmosphere, was designed and assembled. Moreover, nitric oxide (NO) was selected since is easier to follow and evaluate than other nitrogen plasma active species, and its contents were measured to perform a quantitative and qualitative evaluation of plasma. First, an injection method, using different proximities labeled "sinking" and "non sinking" treatments, was performed to test the most efficient plasma treatment method. As a result, it was observed that the formulation obtained by a non sinking treatment was more effective. Furthermore, toner and ampoule were selected as cosmetics formulations, and the characteristics of the formulation and changes in the injected plasma state were observed. In both formulations, the successful injection of NO plasma was 2 times higher in toner formulation than ampoule formulation, and it gradually decreased with time, having dissipated after a week. It was confirmed that the nitrogen plasma used did not affect the stability of the toner and ampoule formulations at low temperature (4 ℃), room temperature (25 ℃), and high temperature (37 ℃ and 50 ℃) conditions. The results of this study demonstrate the potential of plasma cosmetics and highlight the importance of securing the stability of the injected plasma.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.211-219
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• 2004

Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250g and stems of 300g with 1,3-butylene glycol (l,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was l.375${\pm}$0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was 1.358${\pm}$0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40.0% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41% than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5${\times}$10$^4$-3${\times}$10$\^$5/ dalton, and got 20.0${\pm}$5% of yield.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.61-66
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• 2011

Antioxidant activity of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging assay. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii extract contains tannin, (-)epicatechin, kaempferitin, kaepferol -7-rhamnoside, brevifolin, corilagin, pyrogallol, ellagitannin, geraniin, gallic acid, succinic acid, quercetin, protocatechuic acid, etc. Geranium nepalense subsp. Thunbergii showed excellent antioxidant activity compared to positive control, quercetin. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed a 98.33 % inhibition of DPPH radical at a concentration of $50\;{\mu}g/mL$. Quercetin showed a 78.05 % inhibition of DPPH radical at the same concentration. To investigate reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was treated to human keratinocytes (HaCaT). $IC_{50}$ value of Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract was $43.22\;{\mu}g/mL$ and $IC_{50}$ value of quercetin was $102.35\;{\mu}g/mL$. Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract showed excellent antioxidant activity. Skin irritation test and cytotoxicity test suggested that Geranium nepalense subsp. thunbergii extract is a safe antioxidant ingredient for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.149-158
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• 2013

L-ascorbic acid, the representative antioxidants, has a great effect on skin whitening, collagen synthesis, and anti-aging, but has low oxidative stability during storage. Therefore, in this study, thermal and oxidation properties of L-ascorbic acid under various storage conditions (powder, aqueous phase, changes of temperature, UV-irradiation, and inflow of external air etc.) were investigated. And the storage stability of ingredient was validated in the double-spaced pouch by analysing oxidation properties under each storage conditions (powder phase and blended with essence). In oder to analyze the thermal properties, TGA, DSC, and FT-IR analysis were carried out and UV-visible spectrophotometer & redox titration were used in parallel for oxidation property analyses. From the result of experiment, L-ascorbic acid was oxidized fast when it contained lots of metallic ion, hydroxy ion in aqueous solution under high temperature, UV-irradiation & inflow external air, whereas it was not oxidized for a long time when it was stored as pure powder although it has same condition as heating up, UV-irradiation & inflow external air. Based on this result, retention period of cosmetics which is using L-ascorbic acid, less stable material in oxidation can be innovatively increased when using double-spaced pouch that is designed and produced for separating storage of active ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.80-98
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• 2002

Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50$\pm$5$\^{C}$ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922$\pm$0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0$\pm$0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0$\pm$1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.