• Title/Summary/Keyword: anti fashion

Search Result 260, Processing Time 0.031 seconds

A Study on Western Women's Hair Style in Twenty century (20세기 서구여성 Hair Style 변천에 관한 연구)

  • 김희숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.22
    • /
    • pp.313-332
    • /
    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

  • PDF

A Study on the Handle of Cotton Fabric treated with Chitosan Polyurethane Mixed Solution by KES (I) (키토산-폴리우레탄 혼합용액(混合溶液)으로 처리(處理)된 면직물(綿織物)의 KES에 의한 태분석(態分析) (I))

  • Yoon, Se-Hee;Jeon, Dong-Won;Kim, Jong-Jun
    • Journal of Fashion Business
    • /
    • v.8 no.1
    • /
    • pp.141-155
    • /
    • 2004
  • Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

Dyeing of Soybean Fabrics using Charcoals (숯을 이용한 대두직물의 염색)

  • Lee, Sol;Lee, Shin-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
    • /
    • v.18 no.4
    • /
    • pp.531-539
    • /
    • 2016
  • Charcoal dyed fabrics have been widely used in home textiles and functional clothing due to their anti-statics, antibacterial, deodorization, far infrared emitting and anion releasing. Soybean fiber were regenerated from soybean. Soybean fiber have biodegradable, microbiocidal, non-allergic, and anti-ageing properties. The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeing characteristics of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants. Soybean fabrics were dyed with charcoal solution according to concentration of charcoal, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time. To improve washing fastness and investigate mordanting condition, soybean fabric and dyed soybean fabric with charcoal were mordanted by mordanting agents such as $CH_3COOH$(acetic acid), NaCl(sodium chloride) and $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_2O$(Aluminium Potassium Sulfate). Dyeability and color characteristics of charcoal dyed soybean fabric were obtained by computer color matching and SEM morphology analysis. Particle size of charcoal and color fastness were also investigated. The results obtained were as follows; Mean average diameter of charcoal was $1.39{\mu}m$. The dyeability of soybean fabric using charcoal as colorants was increased gradually with increasing concentration of charcoal dyeing solution and saturated at about 8%(o.w.b.). The optimum dyeing temperature and dyeing time were $90{\sim}105^{\circ}C$ and 60~90 minutes respectively. The overall wash fastness at dyeing concentration 2~4%(o.w.b.) and 6~10%(o.w.b.) were 4 degree and 3-4 degree respectively. The fastness to washing according to mordanting method indicated good grade result as more than 4 degree in all conditions. On the other hand, the staining of adjacent fabrics, i.e. PET, Acryl, Wool, Acetate, Nylon and Cotton was found to be of grade 4 or 4-5 in all conditions.

A Study of Consumption Practices and Needs for Cosmeceuticals of Female University Students (여대생의 기능성화장품 구매 및 사용실태와 요구도)

  • Yun, Ji-Joo;Kweon, Soo-Ae
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
    • /
    • v.13 no.2
    • /
    • pp.271-282
    • /
    • 2004
  • The purposes of this study were to research the behavior of consumption and needs about the female university students to provide useful information which would help finding the marketing source of cosmeceuticals. The sample was consisted of 464 female university students who had experiences of using the cosmeceuticals. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency, x2-test, t-test, ANOVA(LSD) using SPSSWIN. The results were as follows: When the female university students purchased the cosmeceuticals, they considered the effectiveness and the price, so were satisfied with good effect and low price. The most important marketing methods in cosmeceuticals for female university students were through the internet and mail order shopping. Whereas, demerit factors of internet shopping were founded to be the complexity of exchange or refund and the little chance of free samples for trial. The good marketing strategies might be sending trial samples, future payment system after trial period, and/or supporting the event held in the university. Besides, it might be a consideration to have an event for the improvement by public trial. Anti-aging cosmeceutical was the most preferred item for female students, sun protection and whitening cosmetics next in order. Therefore, a target customer for cosmeceuticals might be lowered in age. The purchasing cost system and therapeutic effect of cosmeceuticals had to be developed for 20's. It was necessary to be safe and effective. The factors affecting the level of satisfaction for cosmeceuticals could be categorized into 4; market environment, simplicity of purchase, product merit and additional service. The needs for cosmeceuticals showed significant differences according to grade and kinds of product.

  • PDF

Effect of UV-Absorber Treatment on the Mechanical Properties of Cotton Fabrics (자외선 차단 가공에 의한 면직물의 역학적 특성 변화)

  • Kwon, Young-Ah;Kang, Mi-Jung;Cho, Hyun-Hok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
    • /
    • v.26 no.12
    • /
    • pp.1701-1708
    • /
    • 2002
  • 본 연구의 목적은 자외선 차단 가공 처리 및 자외선 조사처리에 의해 면직물의 역학적 특성 변화를 조사하고 가공제 처리조건에 따른 차이점을 분석하는 것이다. 시료로는 100% 면직물을, 자외선 흡수제로 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy benzophenone을, 첨가제로 Triton X-100, polyethylene glycol 400, MgCl$_2$.6$H_2O$를 사용하였다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 Atlas Launder-O-meter로 75$^{\circ}C$에서 60분간 흡진법으로 하였다. 미처리 시료 및 처리시료는 모두 xenon 램프에 80시간 동안 노출되었으며, 자외선 조사 전후 시료의 역학적 특성은 KES-F시스템을 사용하여 측정하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 요약할 수 있다. 자외선 흡수제 처리는 처리 농도에 상관없이 면직물의 선형인장성(LT), 인장레질리언스(RT), 굽힘강성(B), 굽힘이력(2HB), 전단강성(G), 전단이력(2HG5), 표면마찰계수(MIU)등을 증가시켰으며 표면거칠기(SMD)는 감소시켰다. 압축특성은 처리농도의 영향을 받아서 고농도의 자외선 흡수제 처리는 압축특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 처리는 압축특성을 증가시켰다. 자외 선 흡수제 처리는 처리농도에 상관없이 면직물의 fullness/softness를 유의하게 증가시키는 반면 stiffness, crispness및 anti-drape stiffness를 감소시켜서 가공포의 종합태(THV)는 가공 전에 비하여 저하하였다. 자외선 조사는 가공 전 면직물의 경우 B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, LC를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의 WT, 굽힘특성 , 전단특성을 감소시켰으며, 저농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 증가시켰으며, 고농도의 흡수제 처리포의 경우 SMD를 감소시켰다. 자외선 조사는 처리농도와 상관없이 가공포의fullness/softness, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness를 유의하게 감소시켜서 자외선 조사 전 보다 THV가 37% 저하하였고 미 가공포의 THV를 저하율보다는 저하가 낮았다. 자외선 흡수제 처리에 의해 면직물의 태는 가공 전보다 감소하지만, 자외선 흡수제 처리는 자외선 조사에 의한 태 감소율을 낮추는 데 유의 한 효과가 있다.

A Study on the Smoke Hazard Increase of Flame-retardant-treated Interior Decorative Textile -Focused on Viscose Rayon Textile Wallcovering- (난연 처리된 실내장식섬유의 연기 위해성 증가에 관한 연구 -비스코스 레이온 섬유 벽지를 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Joonhan;Kim, Sun Mee
    • Journal of Fashion Business
    • /
    • v.24 no.3
    • /
    • pp.30-39
    • /
    • 2020
  • This study was conducted to identify problems in domestic flame-retardant performance specifications. Currently, the domestic wallcovering anti-inflammatory regulations are not prepared for damage caused by smoke, with the carbonized area as the main function. In particular, given that smoke is the main cause of human casualties and injuries in a fire, it is reasonable that the flame density and toxicity of the wallcovering should also be the main performance indicators. The scope and method of research in this study were as follows. First, a prior study related to fire on various wallcoverings was considered. Second, it raised questions about the effects of smoke in the event of a fire and domestic anti-inflammatory performance tests. Third, textile wallcovering samples were manufactured with viscose rayon for experimental verification of the problems and tested by Korean and EU standards without flame retardant processing to analyze the differences between each regulation. Fourth, the performance of flame retardant wallcovering according to Korean standards was evaluated using smoke density and harmful gas testing methods. The results of each test were as follows. Non-fire retardant wallcovering was rejected by Korea standards. However, B-s1.d0 in Europe. Smoke density testing and harmful gas by domestic combustion processing on the same sample showed that the smoke density increased about 4.3 times more than before, and the harmful gas test showed that the suspension of the post-processing sample slowed earlier than the non-processed sample.

Studies on the Apoptosis-Inducing Effect of Ulmi Pumilae Cortex on Human Leukemia HL-60 Cells

  • Rhyu Jun Ki;Yu Bong Seon;Jeong Jae Eun;Bak Jin Yeong;Son In Hwan;Lee Ju Seok;Jeon Byeong Hun;Mun Byung Soon
    • Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
    • /
    • v.18 no.3
    • /
    • pp.900-907
    • /
    • 2004
  • The antiproliferative effect of the water extract of the branch and root bark of Ulmi Pumilae Cortex(WEUPC) was investigated on the p53-negative human leukemia cell line (HL-60). A dose- and time-dependent inhibition of cell growth was observed; this effect appears to be due to induction of apoptosis. Involvement of oxidative stress is indicated by a dose-dependent increase in intracellular reactive oxygen species levels. In addition. anti-apoptic effect was observed in the cells simultaneously treated with WEUPC and the anti-oxidant N-acetylcysteine. WEUPC did not affect the anti-apoptotic Bcl-2 and the pro-apoptotic Bax, whereas p21/sup WAF1/CIPl/ was enhanced in a dose- and time-dependent fashion; this effect was partially inhibited by N-acetylcysteine. The increase in p21/sup WAF1/CIPl/ was accompanied by a parallel accumulation of cells in the G1 phase of the cycle. These results suggest that the p53-independent induction of p21/sup WAF1/CIP/ and the induction of apoptosis may mediate the anti proliferative effect of WEUPC at least in this study; on the basis of this observation, WEUPC could be proposed as an useful adjunct to the treatment of p53-deficient tumors, which are often refractory to standard chemotherapy.

G1 Arrest of the Cell Cycle by Onchungeum in Human Hepatocarcinoma Cells (온청음(溫淸飮)이 인체 간암세포의 세포주기 G1 Arrest에 미치는 영향)

  • Goo, In-Moo;Shin, Heung-Mook
    • Journal of Physiology & Pathology in Korean Medicine
    • /
    • v.22 no.4
    • /
    • pp.821-828
    • /
    • 2008
  • Onchungeum, a herbal formula, which has been used for treatment of anemia due to bleeding, discharging blood and skin disease. In the present study, it was examined the effects of extract of Onchungeum (OCE) on the growth of human hepatocarcinoma cell lines Hep3B (p53 null type) and HepG2 (p53 wild type) in order to investigate the anti-proliferative mechanism by OCE. Treatment of Hep3B and HepG2 cells to OCE resulted in the growth inhibition in a dose-dependent manner, however Hep3B cell line exhibited a relatively strong anti-proliferative activity to OEC. Flow cytometric analysis revealed that OCE treatment in Hep3B cells caused G1 phase arrest of the cell cycle, which was associated with various morphological changes in a dose-dependent fashion. RT-PCR and immunoblotting data revealed that treatment of OCE caused the down-regulation of cyclin D1 expression, however the levels of cyclin E expression were not changed by OCE. The G1 arrest of the cell cycle was also associated with the induction of Cdk inhibitor p27 by OCE. Because the p53 gene is null in Hep3B cells, it is most likely that the induction of p21 is mediated through a p53-independent pathway. Moreover, p27 detected in anti-Cdk4 and anti-Cdk2 immunoprecipitates from the OCE-treated cells, suggesting that OCE-induced p27 protein blocks Cdk kinase activities by directing binding to the cyclin/Cdk complexes. Furthermore, OCE treatment potently suppresses the phosphorylation of retinoblastoma proteins and the levels of the transcription factor E2F-1 expression. Taken together, these results indicated that the growth inhibitory effect of OCE in Hep3B hepatoma cells was associated with the induction of G1 arrest of the cell cycle through regulation of several major growth regulatory gene products.

A Case Study on The Reinterpretation of Boro in Modern Fashion - Between 2011 and 2016 - (현대 패션에서 나타나는 보로의 재해석 사례 연구 - 2011~2016년의 사례 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Jae-yoon;Kim, Sun-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
    • /
    • v.19 no.2
    • /
    • pp.29-37
    • /
    • 2017
  • Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

  • PDF

Characteristics of "Glam" Fashion in David Bowie's Costume (데이비드 보위(David Bowie) 복식에 나타난 글램패션 특성)

  • Yang, Soohyun;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.64 no.4
    • /
    • pp.37-51
    • /
    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.