• Title/Summary/Keyword: anti fashion

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Mechanical Properties of Rayon Fabrics dyed with Persimmon Juice (감즙 염색에 의한 레이온 직물의 역학적 특성)

  • Bae, Jung-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.791-799
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    • 2014
  • For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

The Mechanical Propertis of Wool-like Fabrics Using Composite Textured Yarn (복합가공사를 이용한 Wool-like 직물의 역학적성질)

  • Park, Myung-Soo;Yoon, Jong-Ho
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.408-412
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    • 2003
  • The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

Comparative Study on Consumers' Perceptive Attitude and Origins of 'Tattoo' and 'Moonsin' (태투(Tattoo)와 문신(文身)에 관한 소비자인지도 및 유래에 나타난 차이점 비교)

  • Song, Nam-Kyung;Park, Sook-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.1 s.160
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    • pp.107-118
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the realities of the chaotic use of terms, 'tattoo' and 'moonsin', through the empirical field researches. This paper will research the differences in the origins and the etymological meanings of 'tattoo' and 'moonsin' through examining related literatures. Clarifying the term definitions on 'tatto' and 'moonsin', this research is to help fashion consumers to use these terms discretely. In order to figure out consumers' perceptive attitude, this study has performed the questionnaire inquiry and has reached the result by analyzing the level of frequency of using the two terms. 1. The result of the term-preference inquiry tells that consumers prefer 'tattoo' to 'moosin'. However, the inquiry shows considerable number of them use the two terms indiscretely. 2. The study on the perceptions from the two terms shows: the term 'tattoo' is often related to positive images-fashionable, charming, and sexy, and the term 'moonsin' to negative ones-violent, anti-social, and demonic. 3. Both 'tattoo' and 'moonsin' shares the similarity in terms of engraving patterns on skin and coloring them. 4. 'Tattoo' is originally derived from the Polynesian word 'tatau', which means 'artistic'. 'Tatau' is a kind of ethnic art practiced on Polynesian people's skin. The design patterns and practicing techniques are very similar to those on the Polynesian earthware called 'Lapita'.

A Study on Efficiency of Essential Oil for Dandruff Symptoms Relief - Focused on Tea tree oil - (비듬 증상 완화를 위한 에션셜 오일의 유효성 연구 - 티트리 오일을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Eun-Ha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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    • v.3 no.3 s.3
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    • pp.31-40
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    • 2005
  • The reason that aromatherapy began to draw attention again as the alternative therapy is because the essential oils that are used for aromatherapy not only allow the human body to maintain homeostasis but also have an effect on curing a mental feeling of fatigue and because these efficacies and effects are proceeding with being proved scientifically. Also, with coming to be high in a voice of concern about severally side effects that the modern medicine and the synthetic chemistry have, the aromatherapy came to be paid attention as the replacement therapy that can substitute for and supplement this. In particular, at the time of requiring a study on a substance to substitute for this after having been announced in Japan for 1998 a risk of Zincpyrithione that is being used as a component of dandruff treatment, it is thought that the aroma oil that was known for having an anti-dandruff effect has a merit of being easy in a user's access, thus it will be effective in curing the symptom of dandruff. Accordingly, this study conducted the following experiment in a bid to examine whether the aroma oil has the anti-microbial effect on the actual malassezia. First of all, it measured the minimum concentration of aroma oil in which the growth of malassezia is inhibited, by carrying out MIC(Minimum Inhibition Concentration) test in terms of anti-microbial activity against Malassezia furfur KCTC 7744 while using oils of Patchouli, Rosemary, Lavender, and Tea tree among aroma oils that are being used for dandruff treatment. As a result of that, Tea tree oil has the most excellent anti-microbial activity, and the measurement result of anti-microbial activity was shown in order of Lavender oil>Rosemary oil>Patchouli oil. Next, it carried out the is actually eased by applying Tea tree oil directly to the scalp of dandruff. In consequence of the experiment, the massage of Tea tree oil indicated the result of relieving the symptoms of dandruff such as scale, itch, pain, inflammation, and sebum, and among these symptoms of dandruff, it was shown to be most effective in easing itch. Especially, this clinical experiment was indicated that the massage of Tea tree oil has the most effect on relieving itch of targets with a dry-skin type who had no experience of dandruff treatment.

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A Study of Origination and Genealogy on Street Style according to Anthropology (인류학적(人類學的) 분류(分類)에 따른 스트리트 스타일의 발생(發生)과 계보(系譜)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Young-Jae
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 2007
  • This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.

A Study on the Characteristics of Furniture Design and Interior Design in Pop Design (팝 디자인 양식에서 가구디자인과 실내디자인의 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Yoo, Yeon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.19 no.5
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    • pp.375-386
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to analysis the influence in furniture and interior design of pop design. Pop design is a trend which was in fashion for a short time between 1950s and 1960s. It is an experimental transient form in a flow of postmodernism. Through such a trend, we can analogize an idea and values of people speaking for a rapid change of society and culture chat that time. Therefore, the purpose of the study is to examine what environment of society and culture and what idea had an effect on people at that time. Also, the study will examine how the above had an effect on interior design and furniture design. Considering the above results, the study will examine an influence and meaning of pop design in design history. According to the result of analysis, characteristic of pop design is anti-modern, expendability, future mood.

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Identification of Interleukin-l Like Material in Streptornyces Culture Supernatant (Streptomyces 배양액에서의 Interleukin-1 유사물질의 동정)

  • 남명수;배윤수;윤도영;남경수;최인성;정태화
    • Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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    • v.21 no.2
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    • pp.144-149
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    • 1993
  • We have identified a T cell-activating material in the culture supernatant of Streptomyces species. The factor in microbial culture supernatant (MCS) induced thymocyte proliferation in a does dependent fashion and it could be detected by immunoblot analysis using anti-interleukin-1(IL-1) antibody. The factor in MCS was slightly larger(about 21 kd) in its molecular weight than IL-1 on SDS-PAGE. When 125I-MCS was covalently coupled with homo-bifunctional cross-linking agent, disuccinimidyl-propionate to IL-1 receptor(IL-1R) on mouse thymoma cell(EL-4) and immunoprecipitated with anti-IL-1R antibody the molecular weight of this complex of 110 kd was observed.

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Inflammability Characteristics and Wear Comfort Property of Modacrylic Composite Yarn and Knitted Fabrics (난연 모다크릴 복합 방적사 니트소재의 방염성과 착용쾌적특성)

  • Kim, Hyunah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.42 no.3
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    • pp.397-410
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    • 2018
  • This study investigated the flame retardant, anti-static property and wear comfort of knitted fabrics made of two kinds of composite yarns comprised of modacryl, antistatic PET, cotton and excel(R) fibers. A Low Oxygen Index (LOI) above 28 was observed in the modacryl knitted fabric specimens. The flame retardant was superior at the excel(R) fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric) than the one including cotton fiber. Anti-static properties of the modacryl knitted fabrics imbedded by 3wt% of antistatic PET fibers were observed by rubbing with wool fabric attached to the measuring apparatus, which showed a better anti-static property than the excel(R) fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric). Wear comfort indicated that quick perspiration absorption and the fast dry property of excel(R) (including modacryl knitted fabric) was better than one that included cotton fiber. Warmth keepability and breathability of the knitted fabrics indicated good results in the excel(R) (including cotton and the modacryl knitted fabrics). However, the tactile hand property of cotton fiber (including modacryl knitted fabric) was better than excel(R) fiber due to high extensibility and compressibility, and low bending and shear rigidity of the cotton fiber (including modacryl knitted fabrics).

Survey on the Actual Wearing Conditions of Naval Duty Uniforms in Naval Vessels (해군 함상 근무복 개발을 위한 착용 실태 조사)

  • Lee, Hyo-Hyun;Shin, Sora;Lee, Joo-Young;Baek, Yoon Jeong
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.4
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    • pp.646-656
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    • 2015
  • This study investigates the conditions of Korean naval duty and combat uniforms to develop a new design. Survey participants consisted of, 723 Sailors ($25.3{\pm}6.9yr$ in age, $43{\pm}53$ months in work experience, $174{\pm}6cm$ in height, $71{\pm}9kg$ in body mass) serving in the Korean Navy for over 12 months. The questionnaire consisted of 72 questions about anthropometric characteristics, preferred design, textiles, wear mobility, and subjective perceptions. The results showed that the preferred colors for future naval duty uniforms were blue in summer (69%) and black in winter (62%). Digital camouflage pattern (60%) and darker colors on the inside of shirt collar (87%) and the edge of sleeves (84%) were preferred. They favored more than one pocket on the upper arm and chest of the shirts (58%), narrower width around pant legs and hems than the current clothing (63%), self-controlled elastic waist (55%) and no cargo type pocket on the pants (45%). There were requirements to alleviate excessive heat stress in summer and to protect from the cold and wind in winter. Wrinkle-free (85%), anti-bacterial (78%), water-proof (75%), oil-proof (90%), and elastic (67%) textiles were preferred for Korean navy uniforms. These results will be applied to develop the next generation Korean navy uniforms.

The Study of Kitsch Aesthetic Symbol Represented in Modern Hair Style (현대 헤어스타일에 나타난 키치미의 상징성 연구)

  • Park, Kil-Soon;Lee, Su-In
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.9 no.3
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    • pp.371-382
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    • 2000
  • Fashion, a means of communication, is the symbol conveying the social information and the individual identity. The opulence of material and the development of civilization make the sign of fashion variable and individual; especially, The importance of hair style among the today's sign of fashion, as a determinant element in judging each person's look is emphasized. Kitsch, based on the variety and the individuality is the manner of art in diverse hobbies. In addition, it enlarges the sphere of modern an, creates new open aesthetic world. Therefore, we need to understand the symbol of Kitsch aestetic represented in hair style, which is meaningful. The method of this study is quality analysis by means of semiology, aesthetics, Fashion artical, magazine, atc. To support this statement, we will study the form, a primary symbol, and the ideology, a secondly one in $\ulcorner$Mythologies$\lrcorner$ of Roland Bartes(1972). Then by means of the form and the ideology, we will try to recognize the myth, an essential symbol. The result of this study is following like these three points. First, the Kitsch patterns of representation in hair style use the accumulation by an excessive ornamentation; the inappropriateness by the lack of form, the disagreement, the unbalance, and the nonfunctional form; and finally, the amusement by the reconstruction, the exotic, and the satire. The above three is true to the Barthes's primary symbol-the form. Second, the anti-traditionality(including the lack of form, the disagreement, and the unbalance), the homesickness(including the reconstruction and the exotic), and the eclecticism(including the parody and the mixed imitation) are created as the ideology of the liberal artistic notion, different from the past outlooks on aesthetic. This is true to the Barthes's secondly symbol-the ideology. Third, the form and the ideology enable us to express our own thoughts and to recover the humanity, which is the primary purpose of Kitsch aesthetic. The Kitsch hair style, as we witness, does lead the varied and liberal aesthetic world, create its accessible value, and place the art of hair style in a higher status.

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