A Study of Origination and Genealogy on Street Style according to Anthropology

인류학적(人類學的) 분류(分類)에 따른 스트리트 스타일의 발생(發生)과 계보(系譜)에 관한 연구(硏究)

  • 이영재 (한양대학교 섬유패션디자인과)
  • Published : 2007.09.30

Abstract

This study aims at providing useful fundamental information to re-establish the theories of modern fashion by examining the origination and genealogy of street style. The street styles focusing on caucasoid have a variety of genealogies such as western type, beat, teddy boy, hippie, skinhead, punk, neuron-mantic, indie kid, riot grrrl, grunge and techno cyber punk. In the same period, on the contrary, the streets styles focusing on negroid are zootie, hipster, modernist, rude boy, two-tone, rastafarian, funky, B-boy, fly girl, raggamuffine, bhangra, and acid jazz, which are seen as the culture of the large cities formed along Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean sea like England, America and Jamaica. These have root as the main fashion in western society. Ironically, most of the subculture concentrated on the whites were racists. Because of such a reason, the street styles have been formed as resistance culture that was unable to sympathize with their society and characteristics by distinguishing the whites and the colored people. Zootie or hipster that is one of the street fashion styles was formed in the 1940-50s, while the colored people who lived in the west Indies migrated to England or America. As a minimal modernist style called Ivy look in US, in that time, anti-culture formed by teenagers in whitey, teddy boy and mods fashion can be strictly different from the zootie and hipster. The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, The colored people's street styles of the 1960s developed into aggressive and hard forms from the rude boy and two-tone while their resistance toward the whites was stronger. The rastafarian style researched the peak as the colored people's traditional ethnic characteristics or resistance intention for their freedom in the 1970s. In that time, the street styles of the whites were mostly the skinhead or hippie. Most of them were racists toward the colored people. The punk type on shown on the whites focused on luxury and exaggerative costume. On the contrary, the funky style of the colored people focused on aggressive nihilism and form. With B-boy, fly girl, reggae, rap music, and break dancing in the 1980s, the subculture gradually told on the high fashion as well as the culture between the whites and the colored people. From such aspects, the colored people tried to maintain their unique traditional characteristics. However, their individual values surged by the coming young generation excluded the colored people's characteristic street styles. Focusing on gender, violence and private success among their major concerns, the raga muffin style that represents multi-races and multi-cultures was formed. The jazz style in the 1990s showed cold post-modernistic eclecticism different from that of the 1940s-50s. Simultaneously, the various classes appeared their street styles by emphasizing on each personality. Now that we are living in multi-cultural society, a human race or nationalism concept is getting obscurer. There is no obvious boundary line in the differences between human race and its fashion.

Keywords

References

  1. Merryl Wyn Davies , 정해영(역 )(2005), "인류학", 김영사, p.9
  2. Alan Barnard , 김우영(역 )( 2003 ), "인류학의 역사와 이론", 한길사, p.280
  3. 이영재, 구인숙 (1997), '흑인 스트리트 스타일 이 현대 패션에 미친 영향" 한국의류학회지, 21 (3), PP.544-558
  4. 이영재 (2000), '' 1990년대 스트리트 패션에 나타난 해체주의 경향", 경희대학교 대학원 박사 학 위논문
  5. 이영재 (2000), "단서분석을 통한 패션 트렌드 연구", 한국패션비즈니스학회지, 4(3), pp.79-90
  6. 이영재 ( 2002 ), "단서분석을 통한 패션 트렌드 연구II" . 한국패션비즈니스학회지, 6(2), pp.67-76
  7. 이영재 ( 2001), "대학생의 패션 코디네이션 사례 연구", 서울디자인포럼학회지, 7 ( 12 ) , pp.173-188
  8. 이영재 ( 2003 ), "현대 스트리트 패션 분석 및 선 호도 연구", 한국복식학회지 53(2) , pp.87-100
  9. Van den Berghe, Pierre(1995), "Does Race Matter?", Nations and Nationalism. 1 (3). pp.359-368
  10. Wolf Eric R.(1982). "Europe and the Peopte Without History', Berkeley: University of California Press
  11. Marilyn J. Horn-Lois M.Gure(1981), "The Second Skin(third eaition), Houghton Mifflin, pp.3-4
  12. James Cone, 윤현(역)(1978), "예수와 흑인혁명", 도서출판 청사, p.80
  13. James Cone, 윤현(역)(1978), "예수와 흑인혁명", 도서출판 청사, p.82
  14. 윤경우 ( 1982 ), "아프리카 민족주의", 제3세계 연구, 한국정신문화연구원, pp.32-34
  15. 이지세(편역)(1985), "제3세계 정치운동과 이데올로기", 도서출판 풀빛, p.110
  16. Maria A Morgado(1996), "Coming To Terms With Post-Modern: Theories and concepts of contemporary culture and Their Implications for Apparel Schola", Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 14(1), pp.44-53
  17. Ted Polhemus( 1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p. 6
  18. John Canaday( 1966 December 19), "British Gentlemen's Tailor Advocates Zipper-In the Names of Progress", New York Times, p.49
  19. Marilyn J. Hornolois M.Gure(1981), "The Second Skin(third edition) ". Houghton Mifflin, pp.66-67
  20. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.25
  21. M. Brake(1985), Youth Culture, Routledge & Kegan Paul, p.32
  22. Stuart Hall(1968), "The Hiooies: an America Moment", The University of Birmingham Stencilled Occasional Paper, pp.5-8
  23. Michael Brake (1980), "The Sociology of Youth Culture and Youth Subculture: Sex and Drugs and Rock'n Roll", Routledge & Kegan Paul, p.90
  24. Polhemus Ted,(1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.36
  25. 이 영 재 (2000) , '' 1990년대 스트리트 패션에 나타난 해체주의 경향", 경희대학교 대학원 박사 학위논문 p37
  26. Peter Yoke (1985), "Adorned in Dreams". Virago Press, p.193
  27. Lynne Richard (1972), "The Appearance of Youthful Subculture: A Theoretical Perspective on Deviance", Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 6, NO.3, p.63
  28. "San Francisco: Love on Haight",(1967, March 17). Time, p.15
  29. 서 유 리 (1994) , 'American Hippie와 그 복식에 관한 연구", 이화여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논 문 p16
  30. 서유리 (1994) , 'American Hippie와 그 복식에 관한 연구", 이화여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문 p,66
  31. Yvonne Connikie( 1990), Fashion of a decade the f960s ", Fact on file, p.22
  32. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.70
  33. Amy de Haye. Danny McGrath ' Cathie Dingwall(1996). "Surfers Soulies Skinheads & Skaters, Subcultural Style from the Forties to Nineties", The Overlook Press, pp.70-71
  34. Dick Hebdige(1979). "Sabcatture: The Meaning of Style", Routledge, p.44
  35. Dick Hebdige(1979). "Sabcatture: The Meaning of Style", Routledge, p70
  36. Douglas A. Russel (1982). "Costume History and Style". Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall, p.153
  37. Catherine McDermott( 1987), "Street style ", The Design Council, p.24
  38. Dick Hebdige, (1979). "Sabcatture: The Meaning of Style", Routledge, p.107, p.195
  39. Gerda Buxbaum( 1999). Icons of Fashion The 20th C두셔교 Prestel, pp.120-121
  40. 신혜영 ( 1996 ), "스트리트 패션을 근원으로 한 영 패션의 형성에 관한 연구", 한국복식학회지, 27. pp.5-16
  41. Takamura Zeshu(1997), "Roots of Street Style", Graphic Sha, p.154
  42. Valerie Steele( 1997), "Fetish Fashion, Sex and Power", Oxford University Press, p.135
  43. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, pp.95-96
  44. Amy de Have, Danny McGrath ' Cathie Dingwall. (1996). "Surfers Soulies Skinheads & Skaters, Subcultural Style from the Forties to Nineties", The Overlook Press, p.113
  45. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, pp.121-122
  46. Takamura Zeshu, (1997), "Roots of Street Style", Graphic Sha,. p.180
  47. Vogue (1992 December). "Grunge Style", p.256
  48. Valerie Steele, ( 1997), "Fetish Fashion, Sex and Power", Oxford University Press, p.145
  49. Roy Shuker. 이정엽.장호연역( 1999). "대중음악 사전전 ", 한나래, pp.311-312
  50. Amy de Haye, Danny McGrath'Cathie Dingwall, (1996). "Surfers Soulies Skinheads & Skaters, Subcultural Style from the Forties to Nineties", The Overlook Press, pp.127-129
  51. Douglas A. Russel, (1982). "Costume History and Style". Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall, p.432
  52. O. E. Schoeffler & William Gale( 1973). " ESQuire's Encyclophedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion", Mcgraw-Hill Book Company, 1973, p.25
  53. Douglas A. Russel, (1982). "Costume History and Style". Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall, p.450
  54. O. E. Schoeffler & William Gale,( 1973). " ESQuire's Encyclophedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion", Mcgraw-Hill Book Company,. p.26
  55. 조규화(1990), "복식미학", 수학사, p.60
  56. O. E. Schoeffler & William Gale ,( 1973). " ESQuire's Encyclophedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion", Mcgraw-Hill Book Company p.29
  57. Tulloch Carol, 'Rebel Without a Pause'," CHIC THRILLS, Univ. of California Press. o. 96
  58. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p. 60
  59. Yoke Peter( 1983). "Style Wars ", Sidgwick & Jackson, p.127
  60. olhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.78
  61. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.73
  62. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.93
  63. Polhemus Ted, (1997), "Street Style from Sidewalk to Cat walK', Thames and Hudson, p.111