• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.721-736
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• 2004

The aim of this study is to clarify aesthetic values and sociocultural meanings that reappears in contemporary fashion. In order to analyze aesthetic values and symbolic meanings of body decoration, I examined the concepts and expression methods of the body decoration. Also, analyzed external characteristics of expression and its internal meanings that applied in modern fashion. The expressions of body decoration represented in contemporary fashion are classified into direct and indirect methods. The direct method is expressed by tattoos, piercing, henna, make-up and body painting. And, indirect method is expressed by see-through look, body-conscious look and accessories that were utilized its patterns and the material adaptation methods. Such expression of body decoration in the modern fashion was represented into grotesque images and erotic images. The characteristics of grotesque images are abnormal state, hateful animal image and distorted or transformed body and the internal meanings are the pursuit of primitive, exoticism, the pursuit of playfulness, and resistance. The characteristics of erotic images are an exposure of body, see through, body-conscious and androgynous look and the internal meanings are the self-intoxication, naturalism and sexual pleasure.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 21세기 패션컬렉션에 나타난 모즈 룩에 대한 다양한 미학적 고찰을 통해 사회문화적 배경과 시대정신에 따라 한 시대의 미의식이 패션에 반영되는 특성을 분석하여 패션의 문화적 역할을 재인식하고자 하는 것이다. 연구방법은 모즈와 모즈 룩에 대한 문헌고찰과 2001년부터 2006년까지의 패션잡지에 나타난 모즈 룩의 사진 168건의 자료를 통한 실증적 분석을 하였다. 분석결과, 21세기 패션에서의 모즈 룩은 미니멀 스타일, 스포츠 캐주얼 스타일, 빈티지 스타일, 댄디 & 앤드로지너스 스타일로 유형화할 수 있었다. 이처럼 모즈 룩은 젊음, 발랄함, 새로움 등의 감성과 절충될 뿐만 아니라 스포츠 룩 그리고 스트리트 패션에까지 나타남으로써 대중의 기호에 맞는 디자인 개발 및 새로운 미래 패션영감에 계속 반영 될 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.171-184
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• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.101-112
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• 1993

In representing eroticism in fashion advertising the sentiments of the Post-Modernism thinking of only impulse and pleasure as practical and affirming a human life may he divided into the follwing expression First1 y, Sumbolic Expression The sentiments of Post-Modernism associ ates, the direction sexual intercourse by means of the state and action of wearing the costume or represents indirect symbols with the symbolic expression of an object or phenomenon Secondly, Masochistic, Sadistic Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism in expressing eroticism give people masochistic or sadistic feelings or expressions by means of protographic technigues or the state or background of wearing the model's costume. Thirdly, Homosexual Expression. The sentiments of the Post-Modernism is appropriate to expressing an androgynous and unisex look to people as a role of meeting potential instincts. Fourthy, Feministic Expression. The sentiments of me Post-Modernism also express a subjective woman and represent an extension of her ego through the existence of the woman herself by means of the body-conscious look. Fifthly, Narcissistic Expression. The de-genre such as the introduction high technology and de-campus rnakes consumers have theirself-identity.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.30-39
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• 2004

This study aims to investigate various cultural activities of the Korean youth including the subcultural and popular cultural activities and their characteristics and influences on the youth fashion during the period 1996-2004. This study employs a qualitative approach based on the previous discussions of relevant literatures dealing with Korean youth culture and their fashion styles. The result of the study shows that the most prominent characteristic in youth fashion of the period was 'bricolage.' The appearance of 'Seotaiji' and the activities of his group laid the cornerstone of youth culture in the early 1990's. The influence of postmodernism changed the conventional sexism and androgynous outfit thrived. The androgynous effect also had strong influence on men's fashion in what turned out to be Metro-Sexual in early 2004. During the period 2000-2004 the postmodernism regained its popularity both in culture and fashion. 'Body' was also an important part of youth culture and has become the most popular and prevalent word of this era. At the same time the 'Well-Being' and sports look were the new trend of youth fashion. Sports look, also known as Caports, is one of these new trends and the most important youth fashion style like mix & match reformation. The youth became more and more aware of the body image and were interested in fashion as well. This trend awareness of their body and Well-Being image as well as their inclination to the fashion in the youth is expected to continue. Therefore the fashion industry, as their marketing strategy, needs to analyze the characteristics of the cultural trends among the youth and to prepare for the future need of youth fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2004

This study focuses on the sportism expressed in the modern fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, youth culture and postmodernism. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding, skiing, rock-climbing and fitness. While the sportswear is the term whith stemmed from the need for functionally in sports, the Sportism is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the silhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look more popular. It can be categorized into three aesthetic values, i.e., the functional sportism, the street sportism, and the futuristic sportism. The functional sportism is expressed with the details of function, simplicity, and no useless ornament, the street sportism with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the image of hip-hop look and traditional look, the futuristic sportism with new high tech fabrics and cyber style. The characters of these are a sence of unisex, sensualness, ostentation, renovation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권10호
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• pp.1161-1174
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• 2011

An approach method of the semiotics theory is analyzing fashion: the look is that a sign represents one character and the image is interpreted as the destination of the changes. The fashion image interpretation by semiotics is possible because the fashion phenomenon by society has been accumulated in their abbreviation code. It is not possible to produce contradictions of the human imagination coined solution. The myth relieved to people, allowanced a meaning in the world and explained it have been unable to explain and protect us. Today's role of the world myth becomes the star's future. Public resting star's fashion image analysis promote that we understand the inherent desire. Madonna probably is one of the world's most famous women. To Create Madonna's own mythology staged image in various attire reveals symbolism. In this study, Madonna's fashion images, the myth 8 analysis of semiotics represent publicity. Madonna's album jacket 8 analysis of the myth. The fit and the relationship between the star and myths closely is obvious. The Madonna fashion image investigate that so forth implied myth into duality of feminine, upset of gender roles, upset of sexual roles, object of worship. In addition to the creation of these myths are based on sensuality heterosexual fashion images, body-conscious look, lingerie look, Androgynous Look, Dominatrix Look in the fashion style of the images, fashion items made to body suit, bra top, black panties, black boots, long gloves, pink, red, gold, satin, and leather; the addition, there are exaggerated props and accessories. These use such as the human body building wave blond hair. This study through Madonna's fashion image, semiotics analysis is acquainted with suitable means of myth.