• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2007

As a part of the study for the materials development of compound feelings, therefore, this study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Second, in the case of the dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the color of cotton fiber, which is warp, gave much influence. In addition, the color change was remarkable among complementary colors, while it was negligible among adjacent colors. Third, in the case of dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the results were different by the measuring angle. When PET was fixed in green and cotton was dyed in ten colors, color-deepening was observed by the inclination in the direction of warp and weft without the dominance over all colors like cotton. When cotton was dyed in red and PET in ten colors, the color of PET appeared dimly in the horizontal case by the direction of the light, and red appeared as inclined in the direction of warp and weft. This is because of the dominance of cotton color over the overall color, since the density of cotton fiber, the warp of union fabrics, is higher than that of PET, the weft. Thus, this is to be considered in the selection of the warp's color. In view of the above results, the color changes are outstanding when the color of warp dominates the overall color and when the colors of warp and weft are complementary, in comparison with the case when the colors are adjacent. The colors also change by the measuring angle.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.33-40
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• 2013

This paper focused on investigating the seam strength by cutting direction depending on the fabrics and weave by comparing the tensile strength and elongation of bias, warp and weft of 4 kinds of find cotton fabrics and combining 6 kinds of seam cutting directions. The cutting directions are selected the warp direction, weft direction and 45-degree bias direction. Then, three kinds of directions, the warp/warp direction, the weft/weft direction and the bias/bias directions, and the three different kinds of directions, the warp/weft direction, the warp/bias direction and the weft/bias directions, were finally selected. The results are as follows: The tensile strength of all fabrics was higher in the order of warp, bias and weft direction and tensile elongation was higher in the order of bias, warp and weft direction in almost all fabrics. 100's and 150's cotton fabrics showed the highest seam strength when they were cut in the bias/bias direction. The seam strength of the fabrics cut in the same direction was the highest in the fabrics cut in the bias/bias direction. Four kinds of fabrics demonstrated the similar seam strength. However, for the seam strength of fabrics cut in the different directions, 100's cotton fabrics had the difference of seam strength by direction and weave, but 150's cotton fabrics didn't have any difference in seam strength by direction and weave. As described above, the seam strength was influenced by the cutting direction of fabrics. Accordingly, the seam strength can be improved by changing the cutting direction of seam when making the clothing.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.125-130
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• 2003

To develop natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the dyebath extracted from wisteria. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing temperature, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordant treatment which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, wool, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(ΔE) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk and cotton fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. In silk and wool fabrics(non mordant, dyeing time-20min), color differences increased in case of dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, but in cotton, ramie and hemp fabrics, color differences did not increase. Without mordant treatment, color differences of all experimental fabrics were about 10-20, so in wisteria dyeing mordant treatment was necessary. Color differences were increased by the mordant treatment; the color of dyed fabrics with Al mordant is dull yellow, Cu mordant is gold and Fe mordant is olive tone. Color difference was not affected by pH of dyebath in all experimental fabrics. On the whole, the color fastness of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were good, but color fastness to washing and perspiration in Fe mordant was weak and improved in Cu mordant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.929-941
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• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.667-675
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• 2010

This research did chistosan and cation treatment to raise K/S vlue. In this result, chitosan 1%, cation 4% treatment showed the highest K/S value. Gilycyrrhizae radix dyeing showed the highest K/S value in pH3, pre-mordant, $30^{\circ}C$, 80 min.. Its color Y, YR. K/S value over 2.5 times showed in chitosan treatment fabrics, 5 times in cation treatment fabrics than cotton fabrics on the condition of none-mordant ones. In the antibacterial activity, staphylococus showed 99.9% in all fabrics. Klebsilla Pneumonia also showed 97.1% in chitosan treatment fabrics and it showed 99.9% in other all fabrics. In the deodorization and UV-cut effect, the more K/S value and the larger effect was showed.

• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.205-212
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• 1996

This paper is to study the characteristics of fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton silk rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringet unripe persimmon juice. The structures of natural fabrics dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were examined by scanning electron mi-croscopy. Surface reflexibility of VIS trans-mittance of UV VIS and NIR were analyzed. The study conclues as follows: 1. Colour of cotton fabrics dyed with persim-mon juice became darkended as a function of exposing time to sunlight. That colour was chaged after washing. 2. Blocking effect of ultraciolet light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly and the blocking effect was still remained after 9 washings. 3. Persimmon juice dyeing produced coating effect to fabrics besides dyeing effect accord-ing to the scanning electron micrographs. In a word the cotton fabric dyed with per-simmon juice has blocking effect of UV light stiffness. Therefore I think persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing and ex-pect a wide application of the technique in fu-ture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.57-64
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• 2013

As the clothing materials have been more functional and advanced, the cotton fabrics for dress shirts or blouses have been more qualified and the sewability for high degree of completion has been required. This study aims to identify the seam strength depending on the change of stitch density of fine cotton fabrics by fabric and thread and so the general seam performance of fine cotton fabrics by analyzing the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams. For an experiment, 3 kinds of fine cotton fabrics and 2 kinds of threads were selected and the sample was made by changing the stitch density by four steps. Then, the seam strength was measured. Next, the seam efficiency and breaking mode of seams were analyzed on the basis of the results of seam strength measurement. The results are as follows: All fabrics showed the similar tendency in seam strength. The seam strength is related to the tensile strength and thread strength, it increased only to a certain stitch density. When the stitch density exceeded a certain level, fabrics were destroyed or threads were cut. Then, the seam strength didn't increase. Furthermore, the more the seam strength increased, the more the seam efficiency increased. For increasing the maximum stitch density, it was required to use the fabrics and threads which had similar properties, in other words, the high thread strength for the high tensile strength and the low thread strength for the high tensile strength.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.147-154
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• 2006

In this study 1, the dyeability and sun protection characteristic of the fabrics dyed with pine needles extract was investigated. In the test of color difference, the surface color of all the dyed fabric of both cotton and silk came to light as greenish yellow. In the test of dyeing colorfastness, the colorfastness to sunlight of dyed cotton fabric was below 2nd grade and the one of dyed silk fabric was below 3rd grade. The colorfastness to laundry for the degree of discoloration showed a difference as to mordants, but the colorfastness to laundry for the degree of contamination was excellent as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to perspiration was excellent as the degree of discoloration was more than 3rd grade and the degree of contamination was more than 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed the excellent result as all the dyed fabrics were 4th-5th grade. In the test of sun protection factor(SPF), the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed very high sun protection characteristic as the SPF was each 36.1 and 42.5. In the test of sun protection rate for UV-A and UV-B, the cotton and silk fabrics dyed with $FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_{2}O$ mordant showed the very high sun protection rate of more than $90\%$.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.