• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.151-157
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• 2004

This research is to conservate the old hat and restore its shape and place it on a supportive form in a stable protective container. The hat is a homemade construction, utilizing three different machine made laces, and two cotton net fabrics. The exterior, particularly the top crown piece, as well as the lace along the brim's edge has been generally soiled and discolored. Inside the crown, the cotton net has broken threads, and thread loss in several areas. The paper covering the two wires is very weak, and has discolored the lace in the areas of contact. The plastic buckles of the velvet ribbon have also discolored the areas where there is contact. The wash/bleach bath procedure was very effective. Virtually all of the light brown surface discoloration stains were removed. The darker brown spots, particularly concentrated around the two paper covered wires and assumed to be rust, were $90\%$ removed by the treatment. The brown spots apparently were due to the degradation of the paper covering, and not caused by the wire itself. The buckram foundation lost about $50\%$ of its stiffness, but this was not a major concern due to the fact that this hat should remain it its mount, which has been designed to serve for both storage and exhibition purposes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.253-262
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was improvement of the pants fit for obese women. The results were as follows; 5 obese women in their 20s and 30s were selected for the testing 3D body. They showed no significant differences in all items, comparing with the data of 5th Size Korea body dimensions. The average waist circumstance of the subjects' 3D body dimensions was 87.0 cm and hip circumstance was 102.4 cm, and their obese body types had similar mean values. Based on the survey results and the 3D body dimensions of 5th Size Korea body dimensions, a pants pattern to supplement their body type and improve a fit was designed with waist circumference(88 cm), hip circumference(103 cm), crotch length(27.1 cm), thigh circumference(62 cm), pants length(97 cm), pants hem line circumference(44 cm). Based on the detailed design of ready made pants and the study results of young obese women's preference for pants design, pants of straight silhouette and semi-tight fit which have waist line lowered by 3.5 cm from the waist circumference line, 3.5 cm belt width, no front dart and one back dart, were manufactured with 100% black cotton and cotton spandex mixed fabrics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.503-510
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• 2014

Nowdays, costumer's washing behavior were often times for remove to light-duty dirt. The purpose of this study is to provide the most effective washing conditions of detergent concentration and temperature conditions for help save energy and water resources required to the washing process. Washing conditions were as follows: 2 kinds of detergents and 4 types of artificially soiled fabrics were used. Detergent concentration was 0%, -10%, and -20% below the recommended conc. of manufacturer's standard. Temperature of bath was $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$. The results of this study were as follows: First, washing performances of all kind of artificially soiled fabric improved as the temperature of bath at $40^{\circ}C$. Second, the test was conducted under the condition of decreasing respectively -10% and -20% below of the recommended concentration of manufacturer's standard detergent. The average of washing efficiency was not considerably affected by the reduction of 10% below of manufacturer's standard. Third, in case of the water temperature were $20^{\circ}C$, polyester/cotton blended fiber were higher degree of washing efficiency than cotton fiber.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2012

Nano Inkjet DTP technology, a new technology introduced recently, can be applied to various types of fabric, and pre-treatment process can be omitted, which makes the whole printing process compact. Some important factors for DTP are color difference between the color selected by the designer on PC and the color on the final product and durability of the final fabrics. In this study, the twenty-three trend colors of 2012-2013 F/W suggested by PeclersParis have been picked to be printed on cotton, silk and polyester fabrics, then K/S and ${\Delta}E$ value and color fastness were measured. The results show that dyeability of fabric is varied for each color group, and that also tone of color affect to dyeability when measured for colors in the same group. In general, for all fabric, light fastness, washing fastness and color fastness to sublimation are outstanding. However, because of poor rubbing fastness, additional treatment to fix colorant on fabric is required.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.46-55
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• 2006

본 연구는 우리 야생화중 비교적 대량번식이 가능한 종인 산비장이의 줄기, 꽃, 잎을 채취하여 염액을 추출하고, 다양한 염색 조건에서 견과 면 소재를 염색하여 염색거동을 살펴보고 염색된 색상에 대하여 고찰하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색에서 견은 pH가 낮을수록 진하게 염색되었고 면은 pH가 중성일 때 가장 진하게 염색되었다. 2. 염색온도에 따른 염착량은 견과 면 구분 없이 큰 차이가 없었다. 3. 염색시간이 1시간에서 2시간 사이에서 급격한 Y값의 감소를 보여 이 시간대에서 많은 염착이 이루어 졌다. 4. 면은 염 첨가 농도로 높을수록 Y값이 낮아져 염이 촉염효과 역할을 하는 것으로 보여 졌으나 견의 경우 염첨가에 따른 Y의 값은 큰 변화가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 5. 염액 농도에 따른 염색성은 견, 면 모두 농도가 작아지면 염착량이 작아졌다. 6. 견의 경우 매염제의 대한 매염효과가 높게 나타나고 있으나 매염제 농도는 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 면에서 철(Fe)과 구리(Cu)에 대한 매염효과만 조금 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2013

Market available fermented indigo powders of Indian origin (FI1, FI2), Chinese origin (FC1, FC2), and raw indigo powders of Indian origin (R1, R2) were examined using TLC and HPLC analyses to investigate their pigment contents. TLC analysis gave $R_f$ values of 0.81 and 0.72 for blue and red pigments, respectively. All the powder products and the synthetic and natural indigo standards eluted at 6.9 min and 8.3 min in the HPLC chromatograms, and the peaks showed the ${\lambda}_{max}$ at 610nm and 542nm, representing indigotin and indirubin, respectively. The pigment content calculated based on the area of indigotin and indirubin peaks in the HPLC chromatograms showed that the indigotin content was higher in FC1 and FC2, while FI1 and FI2 had a higher indirubin content. The relative percentage of indirubin was the highest in R2, but the HPLC peak intensity was quite low. Despite the higher indigotin content in FC1 and FC2, cotton dyed with FI1 and FI2 (versus cotton dyed with FC1 and FC2) showed a higher blue (B) hue, the highest K/S values, and the highest antimicrobial effect.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.102-120
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• 2005

Three Jang-Ue's and eleven drapery were investigated in the excavated costume in Ue-Ryeong, Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do. Three Jang-Ue's have three different colors. the length, the width, and the wide of quilting are different as well. The outer collar of a coat is a double collar while the inturned collar is a single collar. In case of Dark blue and Pink Jang-Ue. The large section of cloth forming the body of a Korean coat is getting narrower while the reinforcing cloth strip is getting wider as the time is passing by. All the three Jang-Ue's have the different handling methods of a attached to the top border of a Korean coat, and Pink Jang-Ue doesn't have a attached to the tip border of a Korean coat. The handling method of the hemline are all different. And the handling method of the cuffs are all different. The silk is main in the woven goods, partly hemp, mixed fabrics and cotton. Especially complex gauze with supplementary wefts that were found unusually in Cho-Sun Dynasty are very import to study the complex gauze. The fond relics of the Jeon-Ui Lee family reveal various formational methods and specific characters of the excavated costume. There fore these that bring the Jang-Ue shape and the textile's feature in Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do region, from 16th to 17th are very valuable.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.65-73
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• 1995

1, 3-Di(dodecanoyl)-2, 7-dioxy-6, 8-di(2-hydroxyethyl)-1, 3, 6, 8-tetraazacyclodecane(DDDT) and pentaerythritol monostearate(PMS) were synthesized as a main component for softner. O/W type softner(DPSA) was prepared by blending DDDT and PMS with polyoxyethylene(10) castor oil, polyoxyethylene(20) oleyl ether, and polyoxyethylene(10) monolaurate. After treatment of DPSA to all cotton fabrics, the physical properties such as tear strength, crease recovery, and flexing abrasion resistance were measured. As a result of the measurement, DPSA was proved to be durable softner with good softness.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.17-23
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• 1998

To prepare a O/W type nonionic durable softner(ANSA), synthesized 1, 3-dihexadanoyl-2, 7-dioxy-6, 8-di(2-hexadecanoyloxyethyl)-1, 3, 6, 8-tetraazacyclodecane as the main component of softner, was blended with beef tallow, anhydrous lanolin, polyoxyethylene(20) oleyl ether, sorbitan sesquioleate, and polyoxyethylene(7) stearyl ether in various compositions. Emulsion stability of ANSA was good, and the mixed HLB value was 9.8. After the treatment of ANSA to all cotton fabrics, the physical properties such as tear strength, crease recovery, and flexing abrasion resistance were measured, respectively. As a result of the measurement, ANSA was proved to be durable softner with good softness.