• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.143-155
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• 2014

This study focuses on Yusam, a military raincoat that was worn during the Joseon Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to review the types and management system of Yusam. Documentary records, paintings and relics were used as research materials. Yusam was recorded as either Yusam(油衫) or Yu-ui(油衣) in writing. It usually looked like a skirt and was worn like a cape, but there were differences in length. Some of them took the form of a short coat with half-sleeves and side slits. Research analysis results of Silrok, Ilseongrok and the archives of the military camp in the later Joseon are as follows: First, Mokyusam and Jiyusam coexisted as military raincoats. Mokyusam was made with cotton and perilla oil, while Jiyusam was made with traditional Korean paper, a cotton edging and perilla oil. Second, the differences between general Yusam and military Yusam include the material of the clothing, the materials for waterproofing, the color, and the manufacturer. Third, each military camp supplied soldiers with hundreds to thousands of Yusam. Military officers and King's guards wore Mokyusam because Mokyusam was higher than Jiyusam. Fourth, soldiers Yusam together with Yujeongeon, Chorip, Galmo, or Hwihang as a hat. Fifth, the higher the rank, the higher the price of Yusam and the longer the term of usage. On the other hand, as the rank got higher, the cost of the supplementary oil rose, while the duration of usage got shorter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.124-137
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• 2013

This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.72-86
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• 2006

The study aimed to materialize the meaning of the names through analyzing names that have synonyms and ambiguous words. The subjects of the study are seven foreign language study books such as $\ll$譯語類解 Yeokeoyuhae $\gg$ $\ll$譯語類解補編 Yeokeoyuhae - supplementary book$\gg$, $\ll$同文類解 Dongmunyuhae$\ggl$, $\ll$象語類解 Mongeoyuhae$\gg$, $\ll$象語類解補編 Mongeoyuhae- supplementary book$\gg$, $\ll$俊語類解 Oaeeoyuhae$\gg$ and $\ll$方름類釋 Bangeonyuseok$\gg$. The study selected vocabularies related with headgear, socks, clothing from those vocabulary books. The results are as follows: 1. The result focusing on the same Chinese terms in multiple forms has shown that '帽子(Moja), 斗逢(Dubong), 頭面(Dumyen), 襪(Mal), 木?(Mokgeuk), 　據子(Nanmalja), 樓子(Oja), 小樓子(Sooja), 養衣(Saui), 團領(Danlyeng), 掛子(Goija), 齊肩掛(Jegyengae), 彩兒(Sama), 單補(Dango)' have differences in Korean annotations, and it has been found that these differences are spelt as synonyms in general. 2. The result focusing on the same Korean terms in multiple forms has shown that Gamto, Gat, Satgat, Bolkki, Gatmo, Neoneol, Gatdongot, Ddambatgijeoksam, Nuyeok, Tyeollik, Goui, Baji, Gatdongot, Hatot, Dongdoljji, Yusam, Chima and ete. have 2 or more Chinese spellings. Among these, Neoneol, Ddambatgijeoksam, Nuyeok, Tyeollik, and etc. seem to have used similar Chinese spellings, and Gat, Dongdoljji, and etc. seem to have used Chinese spellings according to the multiple forms in each country. 3. There have also been records of terms seldom used at present such as Dalogi, Neoneol, and etc., and it has been found that Mahulae, Doljji, Dunja, and etc. are the terms have been geographically influenced by the northern race as they have been left as a dialect in North Korea currently. 4. Mahulae, Kulimae, Neolku, and etc. may be inferred as they have originated from Manchu language through pronunciation of each country spelt in translated books.