• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.17-24
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• 1987

As people know how to brew a wine from fruits and cereals, they continued to develope various wines good to their taste. Korean wines are also ones made from cereals and they have long been eager to improve the delicate taste. They used to drink Takju, raw rice wine, made from nonglutinous rice and Nuruk, a kind of yeast starter. During Koryo Dynasty, Soju a liquor was imported from Won(the Chinese dynasty). Nowadays this traditional folk wine, which had been developed variously and drunk all over the country, is decreasing year after year. The purpose of this study was to review on the wines ; its kinds, raw materials, brewing method, manufacturing utensils, measuring units and devices and the terms for wine making based on 20 documents published in 1600, in the middle of Yi dynesty. The results of review were as follows. 1. There were 121 kinds of wines at that time in Korea. 2. Among the raw materials for wines, major materials were glutinous rice, nonglutinous rice, wheat flour, wheat, mung bean, and black soybean. And minor materials were pepper corn, Lycium chinenisis, cinnamon, pine needles, pine nuts, jujube, mugwort leaves, lotus leaves, pine corn, pine bud, chrysanthemum, pine flowers, honey, Acanthopanox seoultenses, bamboo-root, marrowbone of blak cow, sweet flag, Ciprus noblis, Saurea lappa, honey suckle, Tricho santhes, azalea, the leaves of the paper mulberry, and bark of chungum tree. 3. There were several kinds of wines such as a wine without using Nuruk, a wine made from glutinous rice, nonglutinous rice, or glutinous and nonglutinous rice with flour. 4. There were several brewing methods for wines such as a wine boiled with ring rice cake, a wine brewed with loaves of rice cake, a wine brewed with hard boiled rice, a wine brewed with rice gruel, and a wine brewed with powdered rice gruel. 5. There were 23 kinds of utensils including measuring devices for weight and volume.

• 한국의사학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.139-164
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• 2007

Xu Ling Tai (徐靈胎) was an outstanding medical practitioner in the early and middle part of the Cheong Dynasty of China (淸代). He had learned the study of Confucian classics and natural science from his childhood and read through books covering all sorts of fields, from medical science to hydraulics and literature. He was, in particular, one of leaders who represented the school of classicism that followed scriptures (尊經復古主義學派) in the field of medical science and his solid abstraction has had an affect on posterity's one. One of his masterpieces is Yi Xue Yuan Liu Lun (醫學源流論) among his books in the medical area.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.2-12
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• 2000

Zhang Jie Bin had a lot of influences on the oriental medical world to write Lei Jing(類經) and Lei Jing Tu Yi(類經圖翼). His oriental medicine is based on profound philosophy. In this thesis, he understand the thousand year of chinese philosophy of ancient times in the reign of Song, Yuan, and Ming dynasty and his view of the world which is revealed in Oriental Medicine is regarded as Qi(氣) and then Li(理) is considered not an object for a special purpose but an attribute of Qi(氣). The base which a debater is able to suggest like this is that because of his saying that Tai Ji(太極) is Yin and Yang(陰陽). The basis of his world is Qi Yi Yuan Lun(氣一元論) of Yin Yang Wei Fen(陰陽未分)

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

"The Essence of the Synopsis of the Golden Chamber" is an annotated book on the "Synopsis of the Golden Chamber" written by You-Yi(尤怡) of the Qing Dynasty (1729). Chapter 3 of this annotated book contains explanations of BaiheDisease(百合病). You-Yi(尤怡) maintained that the cause of Baihe-Disease(百合病) is a deficient-type fever(虛熱) induced by lung-fluid deficiency(肺陰不足). Generally, a higher fever led to a worse prognosis, and this disease was mainly treated by supplement methods(補法). In his pharmacological explanations, You-Yi(尤怡) often used the analogical inference of the five evolutive phases(五行歸類), and he frequently quoted "The Yellow Emperor's Canon of Internal Medicine(黃帝內經)" and "The Medical Secret of an Official(外臺秘要)" to explain the texts.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.223-242
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• 2022

본 연구는 세종대에 삼물회를 조선왕릉에 도입하게 되는 과정을 살펴보고, 1446년(세종 28년) 영릉의 구조적 변화가 갖는 의미를 살펴보는 데 중점을 두었다. 조선초 왕릉은 고려의 석실릉을 답습하여 조성하였다. 조선왕릉으로 처음 지어진 신덕왕후의 정릉은 고려의 공민왕과 노국공주의 정릉·현릉을 건립한 경험을 갖고 있는 김사행이 주도적으로 건립하였다. 이후 박자청이 이어받아 조선 초 석실릉을 건립하였으므로, 고려의 석실구조를 기반으로 조선왕릉이 조성되었다고 보는 것이 적절할 것이다. 그러나 성종대의 『국조오례의』에 기록된 석실의 구조를 살펴보면 고려의 것과는 매우 다르다. 뿐만 아니라 『세종실록』에 기록된 태종과 원경왕후의 석실제도와도 다르다. 가장 큰 차이는 석실에 삼물회를 도입하여 구조적인 보강을 시도하였다는 점이다. 이러한 변화는 1446년(세종 28년) 소헌왕후의 국상으로 영릉(英陵)을 건립할 때, 석실 내에 물이 스며들거나 고이지 않는 밀실한 구조를 만들고자 했던 세종의 의지를 반영한 것이다. 1446년 세종과 소헌왕후의 합장릉으로 조성된 영릉(英陵)과 1452년에 조성된 문종의 현릉(顯陵)은 석실구조 바깥에 삼물회격을 추가로 시공한 석실과 회격의 복합구조체이다. 이것은 1468년(예종 즉위년) 세조의 유교에 따라 석실을 폐지하고 회격만으로 현궁을 만드는데 구조적 기반이 되었다. 즉, 영릉과 현릉의 구조에서 내부의 석실구조를 제거하고, 바깥의 회격만을 시공함으로써 회격 현궁이 조성된 것이다. 이로써 조선왕릉은 『국조오례의』에 기록된 석실과 회격의 복합 구조체인 회격석실릉에서, 석실을 제거하고 회격만을 조성하는 회격릉으로 정착하게 된다. 이러한 전개과정을 살펴볼 때, 1446년(세종 28)에 삼물회로 만든 회격구조를 석실에 결합한 회격석실릉은 조선만의 특별한 석실구조이며, 조선왕릉의 지하구조가 회격릉으로 변천하게 되는 기반이 되었음을 논증한다.

• 교육시설 논문지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2011

The Korean academics of classical learning, Seowon which from the middle of Joseon Dynasty was complexly reflected in "the illustration of Taiji(太極圖說)" Five-Elements school(陰陽五行說), "Zhou Yi(周易)" and a theory on spherical heaven and square ground(天圓地方) which based on orientalism. Also the theory of Xiangshu Xue(象數學) was a significant factor to decide the size(number of facade module) of Seowon architecture. So, in this study, how the oriental thought was adopted and reflected in existing 21 Seowon in South Korea. The size of Seowon architecture was adopted a theory of combination with heaven, earth and human(天地人三合論) that based on the theory of Xiangshu Xue on "the illustration of Taiji" and "Zhou Yi". "Zhou Yi" was the central thought of Confucian culture in Joseon Dynasty, with which Seowon space was divided into two, ancestral rites space and lecture space. It coincides with balance of yin(陰) and yang(陽), Five-Elements(五行) and four seasons(四季節). In lecture space, lecture hall is relevant with the water(水) and winter, and front tower structure or outer three-door is the fire(火) and summer. Also, central garden means the soil(土) and center. Thus, the size and spatial composition was planned with the philosophy, "the illustration of Taiji", Five-Elements school and a theory on spherical heaven and square ground. Yin and yang has an idea of the heaven and earth, and Five-Elements has an idea of direction and season with which spatial composition of Seowon could be set. And the numeral meaning on the theory of Xiangshu Xue established an ideal background for spatial composition of Seowon architecture.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• 천문학논총
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.115-127
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• 2011

Since the thirteenth century, large scale facilities and various instruments for astronomical observation were built and installed in East Asia. During the Yuan Dynasty, S. ti.ntai (Beijing astronomical observatory in the Yuan Dynasty, 司天臺) was built in Beijing in 1279. Various astronomical instruments, including Ganui (Jianyi, simplified armillary sphere, 簡儀), Yang-yi (upward hemisphere, 仰儀) and Gyupyo (gnomon, 圭表) were installed in this observatory. These astronomical instruments were modified and improved by researchers of the Joseon Dynasty. Ganuidae (Joseon astronomical observatory, 簡儀臺) was built in Gyeongbokgung (or Gyeongbok palace, 景福宮), Seoul. Its scale was 31 Cheok (Korean feet in the Joseon Dynasty, 尺) in height, 47 Cheok in length and 32 Cheok in width. Lee, Cheon (李蕆, 1376~1451), a responsible leader of Ganuidae project, set up various astronomical instruments with his colleagues. Ganui and Jeongbangan (direction-determining board, 正方案) were installed at the top of this observatory. Gyupyo was installed at the west side of this observatory and Honui (armillary sphere, 渾儀) and Honsang (celestial globe, 渾象) were installed in a small pavilion which was located next to Gyupyo. A decade after installation, this observatory was moved to the north-west side of the palace but almost destroyed during Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 except Ganuidae. We have analyzed documents about Ganuidae and investigated Chinese remains of astronomical observatories and artifacts of astronomical instruments. In this paper, we suggest the appearance, structure, arrangement and scale of Ganuidae, which are expected to be used for the restoration of Ganuidae at some day in the near future.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.52-67
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• 1992

In Cho-Sun Dynasty, since Czhu-Ja Ga Rae be introduced in late Korea dynasty, many kinds of $Y\^{a}e\;Se\^{o}$ by a personal or national edition had been published, based on supports of the political ideology. Especially, in the age of governing by $'Y^{a}e'$ in 16 17c, after completion of publishing $'Oh\;R^{a}e\;Yi(1474),'$ 'Geong Guk Dae Jeon (1469)' in late 15c, norm of $'Ga\;R^{a}e'$ has prevailing and the quantity of publishment of it is more growing. Generally, the contents of these kinds of $Y^{a}e\;Se^{o}$ is intended to interprete the czhu-Ja $'Ga\;R^{a}e'$. and furthermore, some kinds of it, descripted directly architectural institutions as a part of $Y^{a}e\;J^{a}e$ through architectural drawings, with quatating chinese scholar's theory. It can be said that architectural institution on $Y^{a}e\;S^{e}o$ may be a kind of political institution as a tool for execution of a ideal ideology in Confucianism. In this Context, it can be concluded that the governing-class in Cho-Sun Dynasty refered to the architectural institution on $Y^{a}e Se^{o}$ as a ideal norm and, in constructing or organizing buildings, it was taken in account as a 'frame of reference'. The Locus of this study is on architectural drawings on $Y^{a}e\;Se^{o}$, for certifying interrelationship the institution which is executed in the drawings and the architectural characteristics of construction and organization in Cho-Sun Dynasty.