• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.410-410
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• 2003

실에 2차원 혹은 3차원적인 권축변형을 부여하고 이 변형을 적절한 방법으로 고정하며 섬유간의 상호 평행성을 저하시킴으로써 벌키성과 신축성이 부여된 실을 벌크가공사(bulk textured yarn)라고 부른다. 원리적으로는 물리적 변형을 이용하여 섬유간 평행성을 저하시키며, 이를 어떠한 수단으로 고정하는 것이다. 폴리에스터 원사에 대하여 널리 사용되는 방법 중 하나로 가연가공(false twist texturing)법을 들 수 있으며, 본보에서는 가연가공 히터의 온도변화에 따른 원사의 물성 변화에 대하여 분석하고 향후 이러한 기본적인 특성과 외관특성과의 상관성 유무를 확인하고자 한다. (중략)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.5
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• pp.473-478
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• 2001

The newly developed cone drum twister is one of the outer surface contacting friction-twisting devices in false-twist texturing. An investigation of the drag angle for the newly developed cone drum twister texturing mechanism is reported. An analysis is given from which equations can be derived that relate to the conical angle of cone drum, wrapping angle, drag angle, and yam helix angle. Theoretical values of drag angle are calculated and discussed. It is shown that, as the helix angle and the projected wrapping angle increases, the drag angle also increases slowly until the helix angle of $40^{\circ}$ but after the helix angle of $40^{\circ}$ the drag angle increases rapidly. Furthermore the higher the projected wrapping angle and conical angle, the higher the drag angle of friction surface.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1999

This study surveys the mechanical properties such as surface properties(MIU, MMD, SMD) to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties of weft yarn(T.P.M., density, and denier). The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25%, and 30%. Coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of friction(MMD), and geometrical roughness(SMD) of the fabrics were measured and discussed with wed twist, yarn linear density, weft fabric density and weave structures.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.5
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• pp.443-449
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• 2000

An investigation of the relative velocity of friction surface for the newly developed cone drum twister texturing mechanism is reported. The cone drum twister is one of the outer surface contacting friction-twisting devices in false-twist texturing. In this cone drum twister, a filament yam passes over the surface of the cone drum that rotates by passing the yarn without a special driving device. This research is theoretically composed of the analysis of the false twisting mechanism. The equations were derived by using the conical angle of the cone drum, projected wrapping angle, and yarn helix angle. Theoretical values of the relative velocity of friction surface were calculated and discussed. It is shown that, as the projected wrapping angle increased, the relative velocity of friction surface decreased. But as the conical angle increased the relative velocity of friction surface also increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2011

A fineness range of 150 Nm-170 Nm has recently been applied to produce much finer wool products, so that processing techniques for the wool fabrics have been developed very rapidly. However, the worsted wool-like technique using polyester fiber has not been still implemented in general processing technique. Therefore, this research is to develop materials of side-by-side type with high finess, high shrinkage and stretchability. The mechanical properties of the produced fabrics were analyzed and the fundamental information were obtained for the new worsted wool-like products. The physical properties of a latent crimped yarns of side-by-side type with stretch function are analyzed. Also the mechanical properties of five kinds of fabrics are analyzed, which are produced with non-circular shape(+type) warp yarns of a twist of 1000(T/M) and with two kinds of latent weft yarns of a twist of 1000 T/M and DTY respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.5-9
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• 2004

This research surveys the threadline instability on the belt texturing machine according to the 1st heater temperature, draw ratio and velocity ratio. the threadline instability to the time, which is called surging phenomena, is analysed with variations of draw ratio and velocity ratio. In addiction, the surging phenomena is investigated with the variation of the untwisting tension and false twist mechanism on the belt texturing machine. The breaking strain, modulus and yam unevenness of the DTY along the yarn length are measured and analysed with the surging phenomena which is due to untwisting tension variation on the threadline according to the draw ratio, 1st heater temperature and velocity ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics S
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• v.34S no.11
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• pp.80-92
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• 1997

This research focuses onan efficient control method of temperature for multiple points using only one processor. For a yarn production system, the surface temperature control of heaters are very important for quality control. Therefore, we designed a temperature controller for a draw and twist machine and applied Fuzzy-PWM algorithm to the controller. If we use a processor for the temperature control of multiple points with the conventional ON/OFF control, the control performance of the system becomes poor. To overcome these problems, we developed a new Fuzzy-PWM algorithm for the adjustment of power rate to the heaters in the conventional ON/OFF control. It is shown that this algorithm has the same effects as the PID algorithm for the temperature control of each point. The proposed algorithm is robust against the production condition and environment such as the reference temperature and the thickness of yarn, since the power rate to the heater is adjusted by Fuzzy Rules derived from the values of the reference termperatureand the thickness of yarn. To obtain optimal Fuzzy rulees, the control simulations are perfodrmed through the modelling of the heater and simulation of Fuzzy rules. This algorithm is applied for the multiple pont temperature controller and showed satisfactory performance.

• Composites Research
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.30-37
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• 2002

A stiffness model has been proposed to predict elastic constants of twisted yam composites. The model is based upon the unit cell structure, the coordinate transformation, and the volume averaging of compliance constants for constituent materials. For the correlation of analytic results with experiments, composite samples of various yam twist angles were tested, and strength and Young's modulus under tensile, compressive, and shear loading have been obtained. The sample was fabricated by the RTM process using glass yarns and epoxy resin. The correlations of elastic constants showed relatively good agreements. The model provides the predictions of the three-dimensional engineering constants, which are valuable input data for the analytic characterization of textile composites made of twisted yam.