• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.11-22
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to provide beauticians with the fundamental material to use effectively heat permanent wave in beauty industry as well as their customer's satisfaction. It carried out an experiment with damaged hair of a woman in her late twenties to investigate the change of physical and morphological characteristics by its water content when performing heat permanent wave. After spreading 0g, 1g, 2g, 3g, and 4g of water on damaged hair respectively, heat permanent wave was treated and the change of hair was observed. The change of physical characteristic was compared through permanent wave form of hair, tensile strength and elongation. The change of morphological characteristic was observed through Scanning Electron Microscope(SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscope(TEM). The result of experiment on the physical specificity revealed that permanent wave form was the most ideal when the water content was 2g, also 3g. Though the materials with much moisture content formed the results were not satisfied. The material with 0g of water content didn't make the wave. In terms of tensile strength and elongation, tensile strength was generally reduced as per the damaged degree of hair. On the contrary, elongation was increased. It observed the changes of morphological characteristic that the damage on hair cuticle was deepen, as its moisture content was decreased, and cuticle's surface was worn away. The observation of fine structure on hair section by transmission electronic microscope also certainly showed the result that damaged hair having experience with chemical treatment had got much damaged to hair cuticle as well as hair cortex. Generally chemical treatment makes hair damaged. Under consideration of this aspect, the ultimate goal of this thesis is to minimize the damage of hair caused by chemical treatment and get the satisfaction on the hair style. According to the result of experiment, the damaged hair whose moisture content was 3g showed the best permanent wave form.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.60-69
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• 2016

Visual literacy, a key element of a design portfolio, is achieved by communicating a consistent visual aesthetic with respect to design elements, design principles and individual style. Yet, students often feel challenged in articulating their personal aesthetic or design philosophy in order to create a unifying design identity within a body of artifacts. This paper shares some best practices on overcoming this challenge through students' engagement in self-reflection and identity formation processes. The implemented innovative strategy in a senior-level portfolio development course for apparel designers involved four different phases: 1) one-on-one meetings to self-reflect on previous design work, 2) selection and revision of artifacts, 3) peer-review and critiques of revised portfolio artifacts, and 4) development of a final ePortfolio to showcase a unified design identity. It was evident that recording students' initial self-reflection in the form of a metacognitive oral report encouraged and motivated identity development in their portfolio. Further, students expressed their satisfaction in the ability to participate in the selection process of artifacts by self-reflecting about what they wanted to highlight about themselves and why. Overall, student outcomes from this strategy exceeded expectations and the portfolios developed were successful in creating a cohesive design identity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to the effective production and marketing of the brassiere befitting adult women's body shapes and preferences, and thereby, help them improve their apparel life. For this purpose, 563 Korean adult women aged between 20-59 were sampled to survey their practices of purchasing the brassieres and positively identify the factors affecting the practices and thereupon, determine the correlations among them by age group. Data is processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test, ANOVA, Duncan-test. The main results of this study are as follows; 1. The adult women tend to use such mass media as TV, magazines, catalogues and DM to decide for themselves which brassiere befits them most, and to check the brand-name(78.8%) or the sizes(93.4%), but more than 90% of them purchase their brassieres without trying on them. 2. The places of purchasing on which adult women rely most for their brassiere are department stores(32.6%), agencies(26.1%) and discount or pension shops(25.4%), while more than 90% of the sample women often visit bargain sale shops. The average number of brassieres possessed by our adult women is 5.7, and an adult women buys 2.6 brassiere costing 10-30 thousand wons a year on average and consumes a brassiere for the period from 6 months to 2 years. 3. It had been disclosed that the brand favored most by adult women is Venus(56.2%), followed by Vivien (17.6%), Wacoal(6.8%), Amie(2.5%) and Body Guard(2.3%). The most influential factors for the popularity of brands are fitting condition(40.3%) and design(23.8%), which suggests that consumers appreciate functionality and aesthetics. The most important reference affecting our women's choice of brassiere is size(64.4%), followed by design and functionality. The brassiere style favored most by adult women is a wire-type 3/4 cup brassiere made of thin material with sewing lines, while the most favorite color is white. In all, it has been found through this study that adult women's practices of buying their brassieres differ by age group, which may well suggest that brassiere production need to take such age-wise practices into consideration in setting up their brassiere production and marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2015

This study analyzes the shapes of the adjustment of a Napoleon Collar which combines a stand collar with an upper collar. It established experimental conditions for fixing the conditions of Napoleon Collar components (lapel width, stand collar size and upper collar size) as well as varied the shape of the neckline, the length of the curve of a stand collar and the size of the drawing space at the center back. It produced 22 test clothes of muslin, which were dressed on dress form No. 8. The results indicate that: 1. Neckline shape determines the amount of stand and fall. Less curved neckline stands higher against the neck and a more curved neckline is laid lower onto the body. 2. A shorter curve length of a stand collar allows a longer roll line to fall farther away from the neck with more space between the neck and collar. However, the longer the depth of curve of a stand collar creates a shorter roll line that stands high against neck and closer to neck without any space between the neck and collar with a collar line matching the neck of the dress form. 3. The smaller the drawing space at the center back creates a shorter the style line of the upper collar. However, a narrower back width of the collar creates a bigger drawing space at the center back with a longer the style line and a more naturally placed back width of the collar. 4. A Napoleon Collar creates a longer depth of curve for a stand collar and a smaller drawing space at the center back that is tightly and stably stuck to the neck.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.289-321
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• 1996

After the two big wars (Imjin Woeran and Byungia Horan), the Lee Dynasty confronted rapid transitional periods in almost all aspects of the society. Corruption of the governmental system by the wars and disordered social structures also caused confusion in the social position system. In addition, development of the commercial economic system and monetary economy brought up a new rich middle-class, "Joong in Gyegeup". In ideological aspects, Confucianism indulged in and stick to isms and ics, and the Confucian morality slackened, thus a more pragmatic ideology, "Silhak Sasang", developed. And the emergence of the modern literature and art of the 'common people' was followed by the appearance of the common-people class including those having the common-people concept among the noble-class "Yangban Gyegeup". This evoked a new common costume culture and the fashion appeared. The public could no longer find the power and appeal from the preexisting ruling classes due to the changed role and sense of value. Thus, they sought a new symbolic leader group that would to be the new standard of the newly changed society. That was a group of people called as "Kisaeng" liberal and independent. They were performing social activities, enjoying poetry, music and dancing, and classy dressers, having physically attractive bodies. The erotic as well as luxurious mode proposed by them reflected the trend of that time. It concurred well with the concept and taste of the public, so it was accepted with a good response. That is, by following these leaders, the public achieved their identification and tried to share the prestige of the leaders. For this reason, the Kisaeng group attracted the public attention and led the taste of the public, thereby becoming the influential fashion leaders of that age.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.127-138
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the male perceiver's image evaluation on women's hairstyle and hair color, and to disclose the preference of the hairstyle and hair color. The experimental design was $2{\times}3{\times}3$ (hair $wave{\times}hair\;length{\times}hair$ color) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 18 women's upper body photographs which were output by computer simulation. The hairstyles were straight hair and wavy hair, and the types of the hair length were long, medium, and short hair. The hair colors were black, dark brown, and bright brown. Subjects were 154 men living in Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$ reliability coefficient, three-way ANOVA, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test. The results of this study were as follows. Four image dimensions were derived by factor analysis. These were individuality, elegance, potency, and attractiveness. Male perceivers evaluated the women's long hairstyles to be more elegant than the short and the medium length hairs. The women's short hairstyles were perceived more potent than the long and the medium length hairs. The straight hairs were evaluated more elegant than the permed hairs, and the permed hairs were evaluated higher in individuality and attractiveness. The black hairs were perceived lowest in attractiveness, and the bright colors were perceived low in elegance. Male preferred the long brown straight hair first. They liked women's long hairs better than the short and the medium length hairs. Teenaged males preferred various hair colors more than those in their 20's and 30's did.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.202-209
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• 2013

This study suggests a new women's upper clothing based on traditional Korean costumes that utilize the Jatmulim. The Jatmulim is an example of the skill found in conditional Korean costumes and is of a small triangular shape. Jatmulim was developed in size, shape, and arrangement through the method of making and using children's Durumagi, the dancer's or shaman's Mongduri, and modern works. A total of five pieces of different women's clothing were suggested by applying the developed Jatmulim. In the first piece, the clothing is a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the construction of the Yoseon-Cheolik from the Joseon period and made with a larger sized Jatmulim in the back of the neckline and shoulders. In the second piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's jacket based on the Bansuui of the Joseon period with rectangular Jatmulim in the front neckline and at the end of the sleeves. In the third piece, the clothing is designed for a woman's sleeveless blouse based on the Danryeong with rectangular Jatmulim in the neckline. In the fourth piece, the construction of the Jeogori is applied to the clothing for making a woman's jacket that has a bigger sized Jatmulim in the front part as a decoration. In the fifth work, the clothing is designed for a sleeveless blouse based on the Dapho with a different sized arrangement of the Jatmulim in the neckline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to examine the patterns of expressing contemporary beauty from the perspective of Laotzu's philosophy in order to suggest its concept and characteristics and to suggest specific cases through cosmetics advertisement. In doing so, the study attempted to understand that contemporary beauty is more humanistic and liberal in terms of expression patterns than in any other time period. The research results are as below. The frame concept of Laotzu's philosophy includes 1. Naturalness, 2. coexistence in Conflict, and 3. Non-otherness. The characteristics of contemporary beauty are natural and healthy, People can foresee changing beauty by the cycle of life and, by admitting this philosophy, people can understand one's individuality and discover self-esteemed beauty. Also, the results from the cases of cosmetics advertisement are as below: 1. Naturalness was remarkable. Such phenomenon was common in representative brands of the research subjects. Expression pattern was based on soft, natural make-up and hair style. 2. For conflict and coexistence, they introduced the ancient image of the situation, and the situational image using food and herbs demonstrated a functional, situational image, which was used for the cosmetics advertisement based on the mutual coexistence concept instead of dichotomy of period or material. 3. Non-otherness advertisement, of which there was none, we expected that maximized marketing effect would be achieved if non-otherness cosmetics advertisement expressed the contemporary beauty because it could solicit sympathy form many consumers.