• 제목/요약/키워드: Women's costumes

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The Color Image and Stereotyping of Women′s Korean Traditional Costumes -A Qualitative Analysis on Stimuli′s Ages, Occupations -

  • Kim, Jae-sook;Lee, Hae-sook
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • 제4권1호
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    • pp.9-17
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    • 2001
  • The purposes of the study are to find out the effect of clothing colors on perception of stimulus ages, occupations and images using stereotyping and color vision theories. The research method is a qualitative study and materials developed for the study are a set of stimuli and open-ended responses. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students in Taejoen city, Chungbuk province. The data is analyze using content analysis, supplementary frequency and χ²analysis. The results are as follows : 1) The colors in Korean traditional costumes affected on the wearer's age perception : The red ensemble give the wearer the youngest look while the gray give the oldest look. 2) Mono-color ensemble wearers tend to give older look than bi-color ensemble wearers. 3) The chima colors and the jogori colors have similar impact on the wearer's age perception. 4) On image perception the jogori colors have more impact than the chima colors. 5) The colors in Korean traditional costumes are the clues to estimate the wearer's occupation.

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고려시대 사람들의 삶과 전통의상에 대한 고찰 (A Study of People's Lives and Traditional Costumes in Goryeo Dynasty)

  • 최규성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제12권6호
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    • pp.1060-1069
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    • 2004
  • We can study and judge the costumes of the Three Kingdom period through an ancient tomb murals and various burial mound(clay) figures, however, it is quite difficult to search for costumes of the Goryeo period ($960{\sim}1392$), because dresses from this era were rarely found, related antiquities are limited and hard to survive. This is the reason why people say that the Goryeo Dynasty is the period of undiscovered era for its history of costumes in Korea. Fortunately, these days, there are various kinds of buddhist statues discovered with its burial accessories such as costumes and dyed fabrics of the Goryeo era. Through these, we can glimpse through the Goryeo cloths and develop our researches on this field. In addition, a man called Seo Geung(서긍, the Chinese scholar Xu Jing) wrote a book in the 12th century about peoples lives in Goryeo and in this book, there are few documents about the people's costumes which help us to understand the period's traditional dresses. In this paper, we will look for the traditional costumes which were formed and developed through people's lives in Goryeo, using remains from various burial accessories in buddhist statues as well as the documents related to the costumes written in ${\ll}$Goryeosa 고려사${\gg}$. Moreover, costumes of a period usually developed and influenced by the atmosphere of people's lives both economically and mentally, therefore, in this study, we will especially focus on the dresses of the bureaucratic officials and their wives, who led comfortable lives and latitude of mind. Through the records, like Silla, Goryeo exported Sehjeo(세저) and Sehjoongmapo(세중마포) to China. And we found out that Silla's skillful weaving techniques of hemp and ramie cloths were succeeded to Goryeo. According to above facts, Goryeo people made clothes with various kinds of fabrics such as, different sorts of silks, ramie, hemp cloths and cottons. They also have very skillful manufacturing techniques for certain textiles. Their official robes were generally influenced by Tang and Song Dynasty, but, like ordinary people, we found out that the government officials also wore baji(pants) and a jeogor(jacket), which were traditional costumes since the Unified Silla Kingdom with various coats. Especially, women's costumes such as jeoksam(unlined summer jacket) and hansam(한삼), which are sort of jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) and chima(skirts) were made of various kinds of silks and ramie cloths, that were generated from the Goguryeo Kingdom, with jikryeongpo(a long jacket and striped skirt).

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영화 "YMCA 야구단"에 나타난 여 주인공의 의상 디자인 연구 - 개화기 시대의 의상 비교를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Heroine's Costumes in the Movie Titled ${\ulcorner}$YMCA Baseball Team${\lrcorner}$ - By Focusing on the Costumes When the Country Opened Itself to the Outside World -)

  • 김민지;변미연;이인성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제14권5호
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    • pp.728-738
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    • 2006
  • As movies and dramas which show traditional clothes and fusion clothes are getting popular these days, lot of people are paying attention to these dress and ornaments. And as for the domestic collections which seem to reflect this trend, various fusion style clothes are getting widely adopted by people. Therefore, this study analyzed and considered the clothes designs when the country started to open itself to other countries, by selecting a movie titled "YMCA baseball team", a movie to ascertain vigorous historical verification, and by conducting the prior study and using the DVD capture program. This study is meaningful in that based on the comparison study on the costumes, it clarifies the degree of costumes(clothes) acceptance at the point of nation's opening to other countries, which is the source of fusion style, and further shed light on the role that the movie costumes will play. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, through the theoretical background it can be known that when the country opened itself to outside world the dress and ornaments of the time was adopted in a top-down way, namely, first adopted by the royal family and the upper class, which could have easy access to the western civilization and institutions, and then the low class later. Second, in the movie titled 'YMCA baseball team' the costumes were designed through the strict and thorough historic verification, and it can be confirmed that various dress and ornaments adopted at the time of nation's opening to the outside world centered around the clothes design for new women. Third, 'YMCA baseball team is evaluated as a movie that reproduces that time well and as a media that provides an effective clue to the dress and ornaments adopted by the public when the country opened itself to the outside world.

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19세기 말 서양 여성 재킷의 구성기술에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Construction Technique of Western Women's Jacket in the Late 19th Century)

  • 류경화;김양희
    • 복식
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    • 제65권7호
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    • pp.60-74
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    • 2015
  • It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

안동지역 축제의상 개발에 관한 연구 (The Development of Local Festival Costumes in Andong)

  • 김희숙
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

셰익스피어의 희극 "자에는 자로" 무대의상 연구 (Study on the Stage Costume of Shakespear's "Measure for Measure")

  • 홍선옥
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제14권4호
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    • pp.139-150
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    • 2012
  • This study aims to understand the importance of stage costumes, examine and analyze their theoretical ideas in order to propose new designs and support the studies and advances of stage costumes in play. The writer operated and produced the costume designs of Shakespeare's play, Measure for Measure as a costume director, which was played on September 16 to 17, 2011 at the Haneul Theater in the National Theater of Korea and on September 3, 2011 at the Jinnam Munye Theater. The study was followed by 1. Proposing a new modern point of view of the design of the traditional dresses in 16th to 17th centuries. 2. Expressing a symbolism based on personality, role and nature of characters in the play by a creative and modern image of the dress in color, line, and silhouette, which are basic factors of a clothes design.

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중국(中國) 호무복식(胡舞服飾)에 관한 연구 - 한대(漢代)부터 수당대(隋唐代)를 중심으로 - (Research of the Foreign Dancing Costumes - From Han to Sui Tang Dynasty -)

  • 윤지원
    • 복식
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.57-72
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    • 2006
  • Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. In the beginning, only foreigners danced these dances, but Chinese started to dance them gradually. Thus, the dancing costume showed the complete fusion of Chinese and exotic styles. Especially, in the Tang dynasty, Chinese accepted foreign culture very actively and with open hearts. They accepted foreign culture based on their traditional culture, and fused them completely. In these costumes, not one culture was prominent, but many cultures from Gandhara to East and West Turkistan and even to Persian and Hellenism were synthesized together. Chinese, in the Tang dynasty, retained on their traditional culture and modified new foreign culture into Chinese style.

1930년대 할리우드 영화의상의 패션이미지에 관한 연구 (The Study on the Hollywood Film Costume of Fashion image in 1930s)

  • 송영경;임영자
    • 복식
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    • 제57권9호
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    • pp.110-123
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    • 2007
  • This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.