• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.45-66
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• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.63-83
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• 2011

This study aims to prove the changes, development and social background of Korean male cosmetics over the period of 2000-2010. There were total 574 articles written about male make-up and cosmetics in Chosun Daily, Joongang Daily and Donga Daily, which are the top three Korean local daily newspapers in terms of sales revenue for that period. These articles were analyzed together with social background research from various books and daily newspapers. The analysis of articles was divided into different categories; such as foundation cosmetics, color cosmetics, hair, and the social background. It was found that the articles related to foundation cosmetics were written the most, the articles related to male appearance management were second, articles on other items including how to manage the skin being the least. As for the social background of Korean male cosmetics, first of all, a change in social recognition can be pointed out. The traditional understanding of gender roles has changed, men's appearance management has started to be regarded as a competitive talent, and at the same time, the esthetic viewpoint for men also has changed. One example is the newly made popular term, "flower-handsome man", which shows the new trend of favoring males with nice skin. Second, the expansion of mass culture can be pointed out. As consumers can get information and fashion trends easier and faster, the fashion spreads fast, and this has led to the generalization and popularization of the sense of beauty. Third, the development of scientific technology and medical science can be pointed out. Thanks to the progress in those areas. the extension of youthfulness has become possible and the cosmetics industry was also affected greatly, as shown in the market spread of functional products for anti-ageing and wrinkle control as the interest in anti-ageing has grown. There are benefits from the development of scientific technology, but the problem of environmental pollution has appeared due to machinery and industrialization and thus the issue of well-being has been raised. Rising interest in naturalism, pro-environmentalism and organic cosmetics has influenced the cosmetics industry. In addition, the quantity of ultraviolet rays exposed to our skin has increased due to the air pollution caused by the destruction of environment, leading to increased usage of sun block lotion. Lastly, the influence of consumer society and the expansion of consumerism culture can be pointed out. In the modern society, consumption acts not only as the use of products and services but it also has an important role of mediating individuals with others and the society. The market for male cosmetics has been expanding and the number of men putting on make-up has been increasing rapidly. Therefore, this study is meaningful in that the analysis of the mode of change and the social background are an essential process in order to provide a direction for the future market for male cosmetics.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.47
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• pp.63-94
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• 2002

On the purpose to suggest an advanced scheme in assessing the domestic wheat quality, this paper reviewed the inspection systems of wheat in major wheat producing countries as well as the quality criteria which are being used in wheat grading and classification. Most wheat producing countries are adopting both classifications of class and grade to provide an objective evaluation and an official certification to their wheat. There are two main purposes in the wheat classification. The first objectives of classification is to match the wheat with market requirements to maximize market opportunities and returns to growers. The second is to ensure that payments to glowers aye made on the basis of the quality and condition of the grain delivered. Wheat classes has been assigned based on the combination of cultivation area, seed-coat color, kernel and varietal characteristics that are distinctive. Most reputable wheat marketers also employ a similar approach, whereby varieties of a particular type are grouped together, designed by seed coat colour, grain hardness, physical dough properties, and sometimes more precise specification such as starch quality, all of which are genetically inherited characteristics. This classification in simplistic terms is the categorization of a wheat variety into a commercial type or style of wheat that is recognizable for its end use capabilities. All varieties registered in a class are required to have a similar end-use performance that the shipment be consistent in processing quality, cargo to cargo and year to year, Grain inspectors have historically determined wheat classes according to visual kernel characteristics associated with traditional wheat varieties. As well, any new wheat variety must not conflict with the visual distinguishability rule that is used to separate wheats of different classes. Some varieties may possess characteristics of two or more classes. Therefore, knowledge of distinct varietal characteristics is necessary in making class determinations. The grading system sets maximum tolerance levels for a range of characteristics that ensure functionality and freedom from deleterious factors. Tests for the grading of wheat include such factors as plumpness, soundness, cleanliness, purity of type and general condition. Plumpness is measured by test weight. Soundness is indicated by the absence or presence of musty, sour or commercially objectionable foreign odors and by the percentage of damaged kernels that ave present in the wheat. Cleanliness is measured by determining the presence of foreign material after dockage has been removed. Purity of class is measured by classification of wheats in the test sample and by limitation for admixtures of different classes of wheat. Moisture does not influence the numerical grade. However, it is determined on all shipments and reported on the official certificate. U.S. wheat is divided into eight classes based on color, kernel Hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes are Durum, Hard Red Spring, Hard Red Winter, Soft Red Winter, Hard White, soft White, Unclassed and Mixed. Among them, Hard Red Spring wheat, Durum wheat, and Soft White wheat are further divided into three subclasses, respectively. Each class or subclass is divided into five U.S. numerical grades and U.S. Sample grade. Special grades are provided to emphasize special qualities or conditions affecting the value of wheat and are added to and made a part of the grade designation. Canadian wheat is also divided into fourteen classes based on cultivation area, color, kernel hardness and varietal characteristics. The classes have 2-5 numerical grades, a feed grade and sample grades depending on class and grading tolerance. The Canadian grading system is based mainly on visual evaluation, and it works based on the kernel visual distinguishability concept. The Australian wheat is classified based on geographical and quality differentiation. The wheat grown in Australia is predominantly white grained. There are commonly up to 20 different segregations of wheat in a given season. Each variety grown is assigned a category and a growing areas. The state governments in Australia, in cooperation with the Australian Wheat Board(AWB), issue receival standards and dockage schedules annually that list grade specifications and tolerances for Australian wheat. AWB is managing "Golden Rewards" which is designed to provide pricing accuracy and market signals for Australia's grain growers. Continuous payment scales for protein content from 6 to 16% and screenings levels from 0 to 10% based on varietal classification are presented by the Golden Rewards, and the active payment scales and prices can change with market movements.movements.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.181-188
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• 2005

This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.197-218
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• 2019

In addition to economic growth and national income increase, China is also experiencing rapid growth in consumption of cosmetics. About 67% of the total trade volume of Chinese cosmetics is made by e-commerce and especially K-Beauty products, which are Korean cosmetics are very popular. According to previous studies, 80% of consumer goods such as cosmetics are affected by the word of mouth information, searching the product information before purchase. Mostly, consumers acquire information related to cosmetics through comments made by other consumers on SNS such as SINA Weibo and Wechat, and recently they also use information about beauty related video channels. Most of the previous online word-of-mouth researches were mainly focused on media itself such as Facebook, Twitter, and blogs. However, the informational characteristics and the expression forms are also diverse. Typical types are text, picture, and video. This study focused on these types. We analyze the unstructured data of SINA Weibo, the SNS representative platform of China, and Meipai, the video platform, and analyze the impact of K-Beauty brand sales by dividing online word-of-mouth information with quantity and direction information. We analyzed about 330,000 data from Meipai, and 110,000 data from SINA Weibo and analyzed the basic properties of cosmetics. As a result of analysis, the amount of online word-of-mouth information has a positive effect on the sales of cosmetics irrespective of the type of media. However, the online videos showed higher impacts than the pictures and texts. Therefore, it is more effective for companies to carry out advertising and promotional activities in parallel with the existing SNS as well as video related information. It is understood that it is important to generate the frequency of exposure irrespective of media type. The positiveness of the video media was significant but the positiveness of the picture and text media was not significant. Due to the nature of information types, the amount of information in video media is more than that in text-oriented media, and video-related channels are emerging all over the world. In particular, China has made a number of video platforms in recent years and has enjoyed popularity among teenagers and thirties. As a result, existing SNS users are being dispersed to video media. We also analyzed the effect of online type of information on the online cosmetics sales by dividing the product type of cosmetics into basic cosmetics and color cosmetics. As a result, basic cosmetics had a positive effect on the sales according to the number of online videos and it was affected by the negative information of the videos. In the case of basic cosmetics, effects or characteristics do not appear immediately like color cosmetics, so information such as changes after use is often transmitted over a period of time. Therefore, it is important for companies to move more quickly to issues generated from video media. Color cosmetics are largely influenced by negative oral statements and sensitive to picture and text-oriented media. Information such as picture and text has the advantage and disadvantage that the process of making it can be made easier than video. Therefore, complaints and opinions are generally expressed in SNS quickly and immediately. Finally, we analyzed how product diversity affects sales according to online word of mouth information type. As a result of the analysis, it can be confirmed that when a variety of products are introduced in a video channel, they have a positive effect on online cosmetics sales. The significance of this study in the theoretical aspect is that, as in the previous studies, online sales have basically proved that K-Beauty cosmetics are also influenced by word-of-mouth. However this study focused on media types and both media have a positive impact on sales, as in previous studies, but it has been proven that video is more informative and influencing than text, depending on media abundance. In addition, according to the existing research on information direction, it is said that the negative influence has more influence, but in the basic study, the correlation is not significant, but the effect of negation in the case of color cosmetics is large. In the case of temporal fashion products such as color cosmetics, fast oral effect is influenced. In practical terms, it is expected that it will be helpful to use advertising strategies on the sales and advertising strategy of K-Beauty cosmetics in China by distinguishing basic and color cosmetics. In addition, it can be said that it recognized the importance of a video advertising strategy such as YouTube and one-person media. The results of this study can be used as basic data for analyzing the big data in understanding the Chinese cosmetics market and establishing appropriate strategies and marketing utilization of related companies.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.58-64
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• 2017

Modern society is characterized by rapid increase in world population, aging of the rural population, decrease of cultivation area due to industrialization. The food problem is becoming an important issue with the farmers and becomes rural. Recently, the researches about the field of the smart farm are actively carried out to increase the profit of the rural area. The existing smart farm researches mainly monitor the cultivation environment of the crops in the greenhouse, another way like in the case of poor quality t is being studied that the system to control cultivation environmental factors is automatically activated to keep the cultivation environment of crops in optimum conditions. The researches focus on the crops cultivated indoors, and there are not many studies applied to the cultivation environment of crops grown outside. In this paper, we propose a method to improve the harvestability of poor areas by monitoring the areas with bad harvests by using big data analysis, by precisely predicting the harvest timing of fruit trees growing in orchards. Factors besides for harvesting include fruit color information and fruit weight information We suggest that a harvest correlation factor data collected in real time. It is analyzed using the Apache Spark engine. The Apache Spark engine has excellent performance in real-time data analysis as well as high capacity batch data analysis. User device receiving service supports PC user and smartphone users. A sensing data receiving device purpose Arduino, because it requires only simple processing to receive a sensed data and transmit it to the server. It regulates a harvest time of fruit which produces a good quality fruit, it is needful to determine a poor harvest area or concentrate a bad area. In this paper, we also present an architectural model to determine the bad areas of fruit harvest using strong data analysis.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.233-242
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• 2000

The traditional image of hydraulic excavator started to change in two ways since 1990. First, post-heavy equipment's visual image was new waves to traditional image of heavy, strong, and wild. They are the negative aspect that excavators have. Another movement of getting rid of its negative image can be found in late-heavy equipment, which was intended to adapt traditional and positive, but off negative images. In 1990s, the design trend is moving from warm/hard to warm/soft, and KOBELCO can be exceptional example that went even further, gone up to cool-soft image. KOBELCO specially aimed 'post- excavator image' strategy, which has been successful. Image of cabin as a human space changed little bit further than outside image. Each company tried to differentiate the design of cabin focusing on its safety. Following paragraphs show specific trend of image change in form, colour, texture, and the composition. Major visual image change in form tries to follow the image of cars and home appliances which are showing the movement from tough and hard image to soft one. Structural change on local image shows the movement from angular edge to edgeless and the movement of cabin's pillar C placed to back of the equipment with gentle inclination. All of these movements are the result of effort to improve traditional excavator's negative image, that top structure is assembled separately, to positive ones. Today's tendency about its color becomes important to apply two different colour styles. Each style has brightness and tone comparison. As an enormous power convey system, it was in common that its brightness comparison was useful because of the alarm of its damage possibility. However, as its colour control and its design have been emphasized gradually, the tone comparison takes a part in an important role, too. As an example, there is an occasion that these comparisons are compromised simultaneously. In the respect of its image creation, its texture treatments make the tendency of being the same as passenger cars. It is caused from its development of the manufacture techniques of from the fabrication method in small business to the press method in big firm. Further, it is also because of its improvement of painting & coating skills. It may prohibit the reflection effect from solar rays. In the point of view of its visual images, it is recognized the prominent tendency that its composition has been gradually decreased. Lots of windows and the frames tends dark-colour as a whole. It is more preferred to have one colour image, but except KOBELCO and HITACHI. As well, there is another high-tendency to improve its standard treatments, especially for its corner and texture treatments.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.637-644
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• 2013

This study was conducted to obtain the baseline data for fermented tea with King oyster (Pleurotus eryngii) mushroom mycelium as well as to investigate the possibility of development for deodeok processing products. For this research, the physicochemical properties and antioxidant activity for fermented tea were confirmed by different roasting temperatures and roasting times. The results of the physicochemical properties, browning, turbidity, reducing sugar, total polyphenol and total flavonoid contents, were increased with increasing roasting temperature and roasting time, whereas the pH was decreased. The results of the antioxidant activity test of fermented tea, DPPH radical-scavenging activity, FRAP and reducing power, were increased with increasing roasting temperature and roasting time. The preference of fermented tea was confirmed as being the highest when roasted at $180^{\circ}C$ for 30 min. Although fermented tea did not have a unique flavor of mushroom and burnt flavor, it had strong color, flavor and taste. For this reason, fermented tea production for high content of functional materials and high preference is possible by roasting at $180^{\circ}C$ for 30 min. As for the results of this study, the physical properties of fermented deodeok were relatively stable on high temperature exposure and furthermore, the development of a variety of foods will be possible because fermented deodeok has an antioxidant capacity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.61-73
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• 1997

Kon-myuh was worn by the ancient Chinese and Korean rulers as ceremonial dress during special rituals such as worshipping heaven and ancestors marriage or funerals. kon-myun consists of two major parts-Myun and kon-bok (the main bodypiece) as well as other articles of clothing(skirt footgear etc), There were regulations set in ancient books describing in detail the make of the kon-myun number of ryu and symbol to be used all which applied to each ruler depending on rank and status. This study is aimed at examining the consistency of the korean and Chinese in following the regula-tions as seen in relics which have been recovered from the past. Based on historical findings it seems that Korean Kon-myun came to Korea from China during the Three Kingdoms period. It was also worn in the Koryo and Chosun Dynas-ties and the Taehan Empire. In studying Konmyun in Korea the researcher studied a book from the early Chosun dynasty, Kukjo-oryeuiseory and a book from the late Chosun Dynasty Kukjo-sangrye-bopyun to find the guidelines and rules applying to the Kon-myun tradition. Slight difference were found across time in the supplementary articles of clothing as seen in Uigwe Pokwan-doseols explanations and drawings of Kon-myun. The researcher used uigwes of funerals of kings of the Chosun Dynasty and observed change over this period of time. However there was a clear consist-ency: the king's Kon-myun consisted of 9ryu-myun 9chang-bok while that of the prince consisted of 8ryu-myun 7chang-bok. For the Taechan Empire the researcher used Tae-han Yae-jun which shows the emperor's kon-myun to have consisted of 12ryu-myun 12chang-bok. To study how the regulations were put into practice relics were uncovered from the periods being studied. A portrait of King Ik-Jong remnants from King Ko-jong's Kon-bok and a photograph of Emperor Sun-jong all were in close adherence to the regulations outlined in the books. In China Kon-myun was worn by emperors from the Han to the Ching Dynastices. The researcher investigated Kon-myun es-pecially in the Ming Dynasty. The Kon-myun regulations as read in Tai-ming-hui-chan changed through all four periods. To study the faithfulness of practice to low Ding-ling the tomb of Emperor Shin-jong who ruled during a period of the Ming Dynasty was unearthed and the remains of the Emperor's Kon-myun were analyzed. The Kon-myun consisted of 12ryu-myuh 18chang-bok and there were other differences I color symbols and wearing method when compared to the regulations. It can be concluded that the Chinese Kon-myun tradition was not in strict adher-ence to the regulations established by law books. This is in contrast to the Korean Kon-myun tradition which showed little devi-ation. Further study is needed to understand why there was this difference in tradition and ritual.

• Korean journal of food and cookery science
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.785-792
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• 2007

The aim of this study was to develop rice cookies based on 'Goami 2' rice, and made with sesame (white and black) and perilla seeds. Furthermore, we studied the physicochemical and sensory characteristics of the cookies as well as the alternative effects of the sesames or perilla seeds for butter, where we substituted the sesames or perilla for 30% of the total butter. The pH values of the cookie doughs made with the sesames or perilla seeds were significantly different (p<0.001), whereas the spread factors of the doughs were not significantly different. The Hunter color L-, a-, and b- values were significantly different for the cookies made with the added sesames or perilla seeds (p<0.001). The brittleness of the Goami 2 rice cookies (control) was significantly higher than that of the cookies made with the sesames or perilla (p<0.001). In a descriptive analysis performed by 8 trained panelists, the following sensory characteristics: yellow, black, sweet taste, nutty taste, nutty odor, oily flavor, and off flavor, were significantly different among the cookie samples. In a consumer test by 50 women students, the Goami 2 rice cookies were preferred in the following order: Goami 2 rice cookies with no additions > black sesame cookies > white sesame cookies > perilla cookies. In conclusion, some physicochemical and sensory characteristics of the cookies were different, in relation to being made with or without the sesame or perilla seeds. However, because of the small difference in acceptance among the cookies, the sesame and perilla rice cookies show strong potentials for consumer acceptance. Moreover, the black sesame cookies were more acceptable in terms of butter substitution for the cookie preparation.