The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.
Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.
3D printing technology, which is expected to play a leading role within the Fourth Industrial Revolution, is becoming distinguished not only in the space, automotive, medical and engineering industries, but also in the area of design. The fashion and textile structures created by 3D printing technology were classified into three types - basic structure, unified structure, and a new physical structure. When traditional weaving, knitting, and stitching was reinterpreted through 3D printing, there were apparent limitations in reproducing the characteristics of fabric structures due to differences in the materials and structures of traditional textiles. New physical structures are being developed to break away from merely reproducing traditional textile structures, and to bring out the characteristics of 3D printing technology. As examples of new physical structures, there are the kinematics structure which utilizes the hinge method, mesostructure cellular material, and the N12 disk structure. Such techniques potentially open a new paradigm of fashion and textile structures. Some innovative aspects of 3D printing technology may result in changes in the methods of collaboration, manufacturing, and distribution. Designers are receiving help from specialists of various backgrounds to merge 3D printing technology to create original works. Also, 3D printing not only makes personalized custom designs available, but shortens the distribution channels, foretelling a change within the fashion and textile industry.
Recently, Application of composite materials are increased in transport area for weight reduction. Also, Related technical developments have been implemented actively at domestic and abroad. In particular, The carbon fiber has high strength and ultra light property higher than stainless steel, aluminum, GFRP as Eco-friendly material. Carbon fiber contribute to improving the environmental effect such as fuel saving, expansion of loadage, reducing the exhaustion of carbon dioxide through the weight reduction of transport area. In addition, The carbon fiber is applied to the ship in the area of race yacht, luxury cruise boat as weight reduction and high added-value materials, but there is limited application for general boat because price of carbon fiber is very expensive. For the weight reduction of general boat hull, being used as structure materials, glass fiber and carbon fiber are applied to hull with form of hybrid composite materials, but application of domestic and research for development are incomlete. In this study, An evaluations of mechanical strength property and fatigue strength are performed on composite materials by hybrid weaving of glass fiber and carbon fiber and composite materials forming method by hybrid forming.
Kim, Sae-Bom;Je, Gi-Yeon;Park, In-Jo;Ye, Ji-Young;Lee, Kyoung-Hee
Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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v.11
no.1
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pp.24-32
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2009
The purpose of this study is to understand characteristic of expression in Korean style fashion design and investigated Korean style fashion design's deployment and design idea method as well as its esthetic value. The photographs for the research were selected from fashion collections during S/S 2003-F/W 2007 by four specialists in the department of textile and then analyzed with 288 final data. The results were as followings. First, the characteristics of design expression in Korean style fashion design were formation by separating partial shape from the whole, formation by shape's separation and repetition, and connecting formation by combination and transformation of parts. In the case of color, they were direct expression, contrasting formative expression, and gradual changing expression. In the case of pattern, they were the methods of filling, filling & emptying, and partial filling. Second, the deployments of Korean style fashion design were adding modern elements to traditional things, combining traditional elements and modern things, and adding traditional elements to modern things. The third, Korean style fashion design's idea methods were weaving, snatching, adding, and changing. Fourth, it was shown that esthetic values of Korean style fashion design were the interactive organism by building organic relationship, the optimum expressing beauty with minimum elements, the palpitation having dynamics and rhythmical beauty.
The curved blocks which compose the bow and stem of a ship contain many skewed joints that are inclined horizontally and vertically. Most of these joints have a large fitness error and are continuously changing their form and are not easily accessible. The welding position and parameter values should be appropriately set in correspondence to the shape and the inclination of the joints. The welding parameters such as current, voltage, travel speed, and melting rate, are related to each other and their values must be in a specific limited range for the sound welding. These correlations and the ranges are dependent up on the kind and size of wire, shielding gas, joint shape and fitness. To determine these relationships, extensive welding experiments were performed. The experimental data were processed using several information processing technologies. The regression method was used to determine the relationship between current voltage, and deposition rate. When a joint is inclined, the weld bead should be confined to a the limited size, inorder to avoid undercut as well as overlap due to flowing down of molten metal by gravity. The dependency of the limited weld size which is defined as the critical deposited area on various factors such as the horizontally and vertically inclined angle of the joint, skewed angle of the joint, up or down welding direction and weaving was investigated through a number of welding experiments. On the basis of this result, an ANN system was developed to estimate the critical deposited area. The ANN system consists of a 4 layer structure and uses an error back propagation learning algorithm. The estimated values of the ANN were validated using experimental values.
In this study, the development purpose is to replace steel Tie Rod of commercial vehicle to the carbon composite by a braiding process. CFRP tie rod was designed to meet the performance requirements of existing products by designing the cross section of the core for braiding weaving and the structural design of the joint between the core and the carbon fiber. The specimens were fabricated by braiding method and applied to structural analysis through test evaluation. The manufacturing process proceeded from braiding to infusion through post-curing process. The test evaluation of the final product was satisfactorily carried out by sequentially performing tensile test, torsion test, compression test and fatigue test. In addition, the weight of CFRP tie rod could be reduced by about 37% compared to existing products.
KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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v.31
no.4D
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pp.527-538
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2011
Currently, the only established criteria is on the location of bus stops on principal roads where uninterrupted flow mainly occurs. There are no clear guidelines on any method to locating bus stops considering the characteristics of bus operation and pedestrians. If the location or exterior of a bus stop is inappropriate, road users including bus drivers and pedestrians will be caused serious dangerous and inconvenience. In this study, the research below was performed in order to propose rational criteria for the location of bus stops integrated with or separated from speed-change lanes at signalized intersections considering smooth traffic flow and the characteristics of bus operation and pedestrians as well as traffic safety : First, the appropriate length of each of the near-side and far-side bus stops was calculated by categorizing bus stops to be constructed into those integrated with speed-change lanes and those separated from speed-change lanes. Secondly, the appropriate length of each of the bus stops divided into near-side bus stops and far-side bus stops and integrated with or separated from speed-change lanes was selected by considering the characteristics of pedestrians. Thirdly, whether the construction locations of bus stops were appropriate or not was determined based on the appropriate length of bus stops integrated with or separated from speed-change lanes, which was calculated and selected by considering traffic flow and the characteristics of pedestrians and considering traffic safety. The method for locating bus stops considering traffic flow, the characteristics of pedestrians, and traffic safety will be able to help suggestion criteria of bus stop and the location of safe and pleasant bus stops.
This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.
When video composes mise-en-scene during the performance, it reflects the aspect of contemporary image culture, where the individual as creator joins in the image culture through the device of cell phone and computer remediating the former video technology. It also closely related with the contemporary theatre culture in which 1960's and 1970's video art was weaved into the contemporary performance theatre. With these cultural background, theatre practitioners regarded media-friendly mise-en-scene as an alternative facing the cultural landscape the linear representational narrative did not correspond to the present culture. Nonetheless, it can not be ignored that video in the performance theatre is remediating its historical function: to criticize the social reality. to enrich the aesthetic or emotional reality. I focused video in the performance theatre could feature the object with the image by realizing the realtime relay, emphasizing the situation within the frame, and strengthening the reality by alluding the object as a gesutre. So I explored its two historical manuel. First, video recorded the spot, communicated the information, and arose the audience's recognition of the object to its critical function. Second, video in performance theatre could redistribute perceptual way according to the editing method like as close up, slow motion, multiple perspective, montage and collage, and transformation of the image to the aesthetic function. Reminding the historical function of video in contemporary performance theatre, I analyzed two shows, Schaubuhne's Hamlet and Lenea de Sombra's Amarillo which were introduced to Korean audiences during the 2010 Seoul Theatre Olympics. It is known to us that Ostermeir found real social reality as a text and made the play the context. In this, he used video as a vehicle to penetrate the social reality through the hero's perspective. It is also noteworthy that Ostermeir understood Hamlet's dilemma as these days' young generation's propensity. They delayed action while being involved in image culture. Besides his use of video in the piece revitalized the aesthetic function of video by hypermedial perceptual method. Amarillo combined documentary theatre method with installation, physical theatre, and video relay on the spot, and activated aesthetic function with the intermediality, its interacting co-relationship between the media. In this performance theatre, video has recorded and pursued the absent presence of the real people who died or lost in the desert. At the same time it fantasized the emotional aspect of the people at the moment of their death, which would be opaque or non prominent otherwise. As a conclusion, I found the video in contemporary performance theatre visualized the rupture between the media and perform their intermediality. It attempted to disturb the transparent immediacy to invoke the spectator's perception to the theatrical situation, to open its emotional and spiritual aspect, and to remind the realities as with Schaubuhne's Hamlet and Lenea de Sombra's Amarillo.
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