• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.135-146
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.1
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• pp.133-150
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• 2022

Calling the 21th century the age of 'cultural competition' is not an overstatement. In an era of globalization, we try to find the 'identity of our country' in our culture. 'Culture' is the unique ethnicity of the people of each country that reflects the traces of their lives. As the world is transforming into a multi-dimensional place, traditional patterns in reference to cultural uniqueness and original formativeness are the brands that represent the people. France's luxury brand, GOYARD's Y-shaped pattern naturally made during the persistent traditional handmade process is still France's representative corporate brand and is considered prestigious even after 150 years have passed. On the other hand, in low-income countries, patterns created in the natural process of weaving fabrics are succeeded as a unique cultural aesthetic and are loved by people all over the world. Like this, people living in the global multi-dimensional world look to attain the framework 'One Planet Perspective' which is to succeed their own native culture and preserve the unique culture of others. For example, in the process of international relief organizations delivering relief supplies to Columbia's "Wayu tribe" due to the water shortage in 2013, a handmade product, "Mochila Bag" was discovered. Triggered by this incident, Europe and Korea decide to import it to support the livelihood of the "Wayu tribe." Also, the aesthetic and cultural values of the traditional culture in minority tribes that have evolved through thousands of years have been listed on UNESCO and preserved worldwide. Likewise, culture doesn't suddenly appear overnight, but rather the brand representing the company is the pattern used in the trend of the era kept for over 100 years. Moreover, patterns that reflect the country's identity are inherited as the unique aesthetic of the culture. Our country does inherit the unique aesthetic of our culture, but doesn't have a 'strong image' that displays the practical value reinterpreted creatively and aesthetically to fit the modern trend. Traditional patterns are important in perspective of study and theoretical research, but the brand's image using those patterns is a new medium from the past existence continuing to the current tradition. Furthermore, this study suggests that the image of a company that uses traditional patterns will have high economical potential as a national brand.