• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.7-12
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• 2002

This study is aimed to find the scouring mechanism at the toe of rubble mound structures. To investigate the characteristics of scouring in front of the structure, experiments were performed with regular waves in a 2-D flume. The results of this study are as follows. 1) It can be said the characteristics of incident wave causes rolling and sliding of armour block. The difference of wave pressure on the slope, internal flow as well as settlement of armour block due to the weight cause scouring. 2) It is observed that scouring depth at the toe increased when wave height or period increased. The location of ultimate scouring and deposition depth moved seaward when wave period increased. 3) The failure of rubble mound structure was caused by waves or scouring. Failure by erosion increased with high waves and long waves. 4) Using surf-similarity parameter including characteristics of incident waves and structure, scouring and deposition pattern were found and their limit was formulated.

• 한국농공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.57-64
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• 1993

A modified kinematic wave model of the overland flow in vegetated filter strips was developed. The model can predict both flow depth and hydraulic radius of the flow. Existing models can predict only mean flow depth. By using the hydraulic radius, erosion, deposition and flow's transport capacity can be more rationally computed. Spacing hydraulic radius was used to compute flow's hydraulic radius. Numerical solution of the model was accomplished by using both a second-order nonlinear scheme and a linear solution scheme. The nonlinear portion of the model ensures convergence and the linear portion of the model provides rapid computations. This second-order nonlinear scheme minimizes numerical computation errors that may be caused by linearization of a nonlinear model. This model can also be applied to golf courses, parks, no-till fields to route runoff and production and attenuation of many nonpoint source pollutants.

• 한국지반환경공학회 논문집
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.71-79
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• 2002

해빈과 배후지 사이에 일직선으로 놓여 있는 해안단애의 형성에 관해 수치모의를 수행하였다. 폭풍해일이 내습하는 경우 해빈경사가 급하면 급할수록 더 큰 해안단애를 형성한다는 것을 알았다. 평균수위의 상승이 또한 해안단애 형성을 가속화시킨다. 게다가 입사파고의 연안방향의 분포는 연안방향의 일정하지 않은 해안단애 형성을 가져오는 하나의 요인이겠다. 그러므로 본 연구는 사빈에 있는 해안단애의 형성과 침식을 예측하는데 이용할 수 있겠다.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.305-313
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• 2008

Recently it was known that the problems of nearshore processes and damage of berth and counter facilities frequently had appeared at the small fishery port, such as Daebang near Samcheonpo city, Korea. Here we try to analyze the impact of the rearrangement of counter facilities and berth layout adopted for tranquility of its inner harbor. Because this harbor is being connected to Daebang channel, the rearrangement of the structures might affect to the current speed and direction and wave height, so do to the sea bottom undulation. Therefore, we made model test for the several layouts of the berth and breakwater in this area. Numerical model result shows that the bottom was eroded by 1m by tidal currents and the speed of flow did not shrink, even after the construction work was completed. The direction of the sand movement was downdrift. Although the model study gave reasonable description of beach processes and approach channel sedimentation mechanism, it is necessary to compare with the field history, including the records of waves, tides and bottom materials, etc. for better prediction.

• 해양환경안전학회지
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.324-339
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• 2021

본 연구에서는 해운대 해수욕장의 내습파랑특성과 해빈면적 변화와의 상관성을 파악하였으며, 파랑특성요소를 독립변수로 설정하고 해빈면적 일변화량을 종속변수로 하는 회귀분석을 수행하여 전체 및 세부구간(서측, 중앙, 동측)에 대한 해빈면적 변화량 산출식을 도출하였다. 도출된 해빈면적 변화량 산출식에 약 10개월의 파랑관측자료를 대입하여 계산된 해빈면적과 실제 관측면적과의 비교를 통해 해빈면적 변화량 산출식의 정확도를 평가하고 해빈면적 변동특성을 분석하였다. 분석 결과, 해빈면적 변화량 산출식의 정확도는 평균 해빈폭 기준 1.5 ~ 2.7 m의 오차를 나타내었으며, 실제 관측면적과의 상관계수는 0.91 ~ 0.94의 분포를 보이며 매우 유사한 해빈면적 변화양상을 나타내었다. 또한, 세부구간별로 해빈면적 변화에 영향을 크게 미치는 파랑특성요소가 서측구간은 파향, 중앙구간은 파고, 동측구간은 파고와 주기인 것을 알 수 있었다. 이를 통해 연안정비사업이 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈면적 변동특성에 미치는 영향 및 연안정비사업의 효과를 파악할 수 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출된 해빈면적 변화량 산출식은 정도 높은 파랑예측자료가 확보될 경우 유의미한 장기간 해빈면적 변화 예측이 가능하므로 연안침식에 대한 선제적 대응 대책 수립 시 의사결정의 근거가 될 수 있는 기초자료 확보에 기여할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.44-51
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• 2008

The planning and design of coastal structures against wave attack is required to accurately predict wave transformation, wave run-up, and fluid. particlevelocities an a slope. On tire other hand, in tire swash and surf zones of a natural beach, where coastal erosion and accretion occur at tire land-sea boundary, hydrodynamic analysis is essential. In this study, a RBREAK2 numerical model was created based on the nonlinear shallow water equation and laboratory measurements were carried out in terms of tire free surface elevations and velocities for tire cases of regular and irregular waves on 1 : 10 and 1 : 5 impermeable slopes. The data were used to evaluate tire applicability and limitations of tire RBREAK2 numerical model. The numerical mode1 could predict tire cross-shore variation of the wave profile reasonably well, but showed more accurate results for slopes that were steeper than 1 : 10. Except near tire wave crest, tire computed depth averaged velocities could represent tire measured profile below tire trough level fairly well.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.183-192
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• 2018

In recent years, coastal areas have been suffering from coastal erosion, such as destruction of coastal roads and military facilities. In this study, the Delft3D model was used to analyze the sediment transport pattern due to seasonal characteristics of summer and winter waves in Anmok beach of the East coast. Typhoon and high waves are mainly are coming from ENE direction in the summer season and the flows occur in the northward. In winter, high waves are incident from NE and the flows occur in the southward. These seasonal patterns were simulated by using Delft3D model. As for model input, reanalysis wave data of the past 38 years were used, and the seasonal patterns were analyzed by dividing the whole year into summer and winter season. The grid point of the 38 year reanalysis data is far from the Anmok beach, so the three model grid systems (wide grid -> intermediate grid -> detailed grid) are constructed. Most of the flows in the NW direction occurred in summer, but erosion and deposition was alternated along the coastline. In winter, sediment was deposited near Gangnung Port due to the southern flow and the southern port. Strong winter waves compared to summer tend to cause deposition around Gangnung Port throughout the year.

• 한국지형학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.59-71
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• 2012

이 연구는 다중시기 원격탐사 영상과 GPS 측량자료 및 입도분석 자료를 이용하여 부산 송정해수욕장의 장기간 해안지형 변화와 원인을 규명하였다. 연구결과, 다중시기 원격탐사 영상 분석에서는 2000년대 초까지 해빈이 전체적으로 안정 상태였으나, 2000년 이후 해안을 따라 호안도로가 건설되면서 전반적으로 침식이 진행되었다. DEM 변화 분석에서는 해빈을 따라 호안도로가 건설된 이후 전체적으로 해빈의 고도가 낮아지고 범의 경사가 급해지는 것으로 보아 침식환경이 우세한 것으로 나타났다. 하지만 세부적으로는 북쪽 해빈지역에서 침식보다는 오히려 퇴적환경이 약간 우세하여 범의 경사가 다소 완만해진 것으로 나타났다. 현장시료의 입도분석에서는 해빈의 남동부 지역(E측선)이 가장 조립화 경향을 보였는데, 이러한 결과는 이 지역이 비교적 외해로부터 유입되는 강한 파랑에너지에 직접적으로 노출되었기 때문이다. 결과적으로 최근 연구지역 내 해빈 침식의 주요 원인은 해안을 따라 건설된 호안도로에 의해 사구로부터의 모래 공급원 차단과 남동쪽 해안에서의 파랑에너지 강화에 따른 세굴 현상 등에 기인한다. 따라서 향후 지형변화나 인위적인 변화가 없을 경우 지속적으로 침식이 될 가능성이 높아 이에 대한 대책수립이 필요하다.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2012

The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.82-90
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• 2021

Owing to the advantages of assuring the best views and seawater exchange, submerged breakwaters have been widely installed along the eastern coast of Korea in recent years. It significantly contributes to promoting the advancement of shorelines by partially inhibiting incident wave energy. Observations were carried out by a pressure-type wave gauge in the Bongpo Beach to evaluate the coefficients of wave transmission via a submerged breakwater, and the results obtained were compared with those of existing conventional equations on the transmission coefficient derived from hydraulic experiments. After reviewing the existing equations, we proposed a transmission coefficient equation in terms of an error function. Although it exhibited robust relationships with the crest height and breaking coefficient, deviations from the observed data were evident and considered to be triggered by the difference in the incident wave climate. Therefore, in this study, we conducted a numerical experiment to verify the influence of wave period on the coefficients of wave transmission, in which we adopted a parabolic-type mild-slope equation model. Consequently, the deviation from calculated results appears to practically cover all deviation range in the observed data. The wave period and direction of the incident wave increased, the transmission coefficient decreased, and the wave direction was determined to demonstrate a relatively significant influence on the transmission coefficient. It was inferred that this numerical study is expected to be used practically in evaluating the design achievement of the submerged breakwater, which is adopted as a countermeasure to coastal beach erosion.