• Title/Summary/Keyword: Wave breaking

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A Numerical Study on the Karman Vortex Generated by Breaking of Mountain Wave

  • Kang Sung-Dae;Kimura Fujio
    • Environmental Sciences Bulletin of The Korean Environmental Sciences Society
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.105-117
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    • 1997
  • The formation mechanism of the vortex streets in the lee of the mountain is investigated by a three-dimensional numerical model. The model is based upon the hydrostatic Boussinesq equations in which the vertical turbulent momentum flux is estimated by a turbulence parameterization scheme, but the horizontal viscosity is assumed to be constant. The results show that Karman vortex streets can form even without surface friction in a constant ambient flow with uniform stratification. The vortex formation is related to breaking of the mountain wave, which depends on the Froude number (Fr). In the case of a three-dimensional bell-shaped mountain, the wave breaking occurs when Fr is less than about 0.8, while a Karman vortex forms when Fr is less than about 0.22. Vortex formation also depends on Reynolds number, which is estimated from the horizontal diffusivity. The vortex formation can be explained by the wave saturation theory given by Lindzen (1981) with some modification. Simulations in this study show that in the case of Karman vortex formation the momentum flux in the lower level is much larger than the saturated momentum flux whereas it is almost equal to the saturated momentum at the upper levels as expected from the saturation theory. As a result, large flux divergence is produced in the lower layer, the mean flow is decelerated behind the mountain, and the horizontal wind shear forms between unmodified ambient wind. The momentum exchange between the mean flow and the mountain wave is produced by the turbulence within a breaking wave. From the result, well developed vortices like Karman vortex can be formed. The results of the momentum budget calculated by the hydrostatic model are almost the same as nonhydrostatic results as long as horizontal scale of the mountain is 10 km. A well developed Karman vortex similar to the hydrostatic one was simulated in the nonhydrostatic case. Therefore, we conclude that the hydrostatic assumption is adequate to investigate the origin of the Karman vortex from the viewpoint of wave breaking.

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Experiments for Wave Transformation of Regular and Irregular Waves over a Submerged Elliptic Shoal(I) : Non-breaking Conditions (타원형 수중천퇴상의 규칙파 및 불규칙파의 전파변형 실험(I):비쇄파조건)

  • 이종인;이정욱
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.240-246
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    • 2002
  • Hydraulic model experiments were conducted fur a series of regular and uni-directional irregular waves propagating over a submerged elliptic shoal. Two different sets of experiments have been studied; one considers regular wave transformation with no breaking, and the other considers uni-directional irregular wave with partial breaking on top of the shoal. The numerical experiments are also performed using a numerical model based on the parabolic approximation equation. The result of the numerical experiments are compared with that of hydraulic experiments.

Characteristics of Equilibrium Beach Profile under Random Waves (불규칙파랑 효과를 고려한 평형단면의 특성)

  • Lee, Cheol-Eung;Choi, Han-Kyu;Han, Chun-Ho
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.16
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    • pp.83-95
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    • 1996
  • The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.

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Elliptic Numerical Wave Model Solving Modified Mild Slope Equation with Nonlinear Shoaling and Wave Breaking (비선형 천수와 쇄파를 고려한 수정완경사방정식의 타원형 수치모형)

  • Yoon, Jong-Tae
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.21 no.1
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    • pp.39-44
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    • 2009
  • To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

A Study on the Improvement of Fore-Body Shape Considering Breaking Wave Phenomena (쇄파현상을 고려한 선수형상개량법에 관한 연구)

  • K.J.,Kang;E.C.,Kim
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 1989
  • This paper presents a method of minimizing the wave resistance components, due to the linear wave propagating to the far field and the breaking wave in the vicinity of the hull. This method consists of the linear optimization method for the linear wave resistance and the statistical optimization method for the breaking wave resistance through the analysis of the experimental data. For the purpose of the application, a wall-sided model with parabolic waterplane shape was selected as a basic hull form, and two modified hull forms with varied $C_p-curve$ of the fore-body were derived from the linear wave optimization method and the empirical method. The correlation between the linear wave resistance and the breaking wave resistance according to the $C_p-curve$ variation of the fore-body was investigated through the experimental and analytical results for the three hull forms. The fore-body shape optimized by the present method shows the reduction of the wave resistance by 47% comparing to the basic hull form at the design speed($F_n=0.26$).

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Application of Boussinesq Equation Model for the Breaking Wave Behavior around Underwater Shoals (수중 천퇴에서의 쇄파거동 예측을 위한 Boussinesq 방정식 모델의 적용)

  • Chun, In-Sik;Kim, Gui-Dong;Sim, Jae-Seol
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.154-165
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    • 2006
  • In the present study, a numerical model using Boussinesq equation is set up to predict the interacted equilibrium between waves and their induced currents in the occurrence of breaking waves over an underwater shoal, and the numerical results are compared with results of existing hydraulic experiments. A sensitivity analysis has been done to find out appropriate values of breaking wave parameters with the result (regular wave case) of Vincent and Briggs (1989)’ experiment. Then the numerical model is applied to the irregular wave cases of the experiment and the hydraulic model test of Ieodo which is a natural undersea shoal. The results show that a strong current forms in the wave direction at the downstream side of the shoals, causing the attenuation of wave heights there. The calculated wave heights generally show a similar pattern with the measured data.

Experimental Study of Deep-Water Wave Instability : Part 2. Evolution of The Initially-Modulated Wave Train (심해파의 불안정성에 관한 실험 연구 -제2부 : 초기변형파의 불안정성)

  • Cho, Won Chul
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.13 no.1
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    • pp.203-211
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    • 1993
  • Experiment on the instability and breaking of the initially modulated deep-water wave train (in wave amplitude or in wave frequency) is performed to investigate the effect of the initial modulation on nonlinear wave evolution. Wave amplitude and frequency modulations are developed earlier and larger than in the case of the uniform deep-water wave trains. However, for small wave steepness in the initially amplitude-modulated wave train, the wave train becomes demodulated and nearly returns to the original wave form at the end of the wave evolution far downstream from the breaking region, with energy returning to the fundamental wave frequency.

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A Study of the Blocking and Ridge over the Western North Pacific in Winter and its Impact on Cold Surge on the Korean Peninsula (겨울철 북서 태평양에서 발생하는 고위도 블로킹과 중앙 태평양 기압능이 한반도 한파에 미치는 영향 연구)

  • Keon-Hee Cho;Eun-Hee Lee;Baek-Min Kim
    • Atmosphere
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    • v.33 no.1
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    • pp.49-59
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    • 2023
  • Blocking refers to a class of weather phenomena appearing in the mid and high latitudes, whose characteristics are blocked airflow of persistence. Frequently found over the Pacific and Atlantic regions of the Northern Hemisphere, blocking affects severe weather in the surrounding areas with different mechanisms depending on the type of blocking patterns. Along with lots of studies about persistent weather extremes focusing on the specific types of blocking, a new categorization using Rossby wave breaking has emerged. This study aims to apply this concept to the classification of blockings over the Pacific and examine how different wave breakings specify the associated cold weather in the Korean peninsula. At the same time, we investigate a strongly developing ridge around the Pacific by designing a new detection algorithm, where a reversal method is modified to distinguish ridge-type blocking patterns. As result, Kamchatka blocking (KB) and strong ridge over the Central Pacific are observed the most frequently during 20 years (2001~2020) of the studied period, and anomalous low pressures with cold air over the Korean Peninsula are accompanied by blocking events. When it considers the Rossby wave breaking, cyclonic wave-breaking is dominant in KB, which generates low-pressure anomalies over the Korean Peninsula. However, KB with anticyclone wave breaking appears with the high-pressure anomalies over the Korean Peninsula and it generates the warm temperature anomaly. Lastly, the low-pressure anomalies are also generated by the strong ridge over the Central Pacific, which persists for approximately three days and give a significant impact on cold surge on the Korean Peninsula.

Estimation of Harbor Responses due to Construction of a New Port in Ulsan Bay

  • Lee, Joong-Woo;Lee, Hoon;Lee, Hak-Seung;Jeon, Min-Su
    • Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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    • v.28 no.7
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    • pp.619-627
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    • 2004
  • Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. We also considered the increase of water depth at the entrance channel by dredging work up to 15 meters depth in order to see the dredging effect. Among several model analyses, the nonlinear and breaking wave conditions are showed the most applicable results. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

Surf Zone Wave Transformations Simulated by a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Equation (완전비선형 Boussinesq방정식을 이용한 쇄파대의 파랑변형 모의)

  • 윤종태;김종무
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.296-308
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    • 2001
  • A fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation of Wei et al. is finite differenced by Adams predictor-corrector method. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the domain and wale breaking mechanism is included in the equation. The generated waves are found to be good and the corresponding wale heights are very close to the target values. The shoaling of solitary wave and transformation of regular wave over submerged shelf were simulated successfully. The characteristics of breaking mechanism was identified through the numerical experiment and the results of two dimensional wave propagation test over the spherical shoal showed the importance of nonlinear wave model.

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