• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.624-640
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• 2017

In this paper, the slamming coefficients on local members of a jacket structure under plunging breaker are studied based on numerical simulations. A 3D numerical model is used to investigate breaking wave forces on the local members of the jacket structure. A wide range of breaking wave conditions is considered in order to get generalized slamming coefficients on the jacket structure. In order to make quantitative comparison between CFD model and experimental data, Empirical Mode Decomposition (EMD) is employed for obtaining net breaking wave forces from the measured response, and the filtered results are compared with the computed results in order to confirm the accuracy of the numerical model. Based on the validated results, the slamming coefficients on the local members (front and back vertical members, front and back inclined members, and side inclined members) are estimated. The distribution of the slamming coefficients on local members is also discussed.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.8
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• pp.3-11
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• 1988

Shock pressure of wave breaking on vertical wall is studied experimentally with beaches, which have four different slopes (1/4.02, 1/7.05, 1/10, 1 /13.5). This results is summerized as follows: 1. Maximum impact presures are occured where the wave break directly on the wall rather than breaking in front of the wall. 2. Deep water steepness, and the beach slope are the two Quantities governing the magnitude and location of maximum dimensionless impact pressure from wave breaking directly on the wall, also, the greatest pressure is produced with a beach slope of 1/10. 3. This study is clearly shown that the location of maximum pressure can be presented above still water level under respectively experimental condition. The dimensionless elevation of maximum Pressure is greatest on a beach slope of 1/10.

• Journal of Mechanical Science and Technology
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1116-1122
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• 2005

A finite element method was used to simulate the wave propagation of laser-generated ultrasound and its interaction with surface breaking cracks in an elastic material. Thermoelastic laser line source on the material surface was approximated as a shear dipole and loaded as nodal forces in the plane-strain finite element (FE) model. The shear dipole- FE model was tested for the generation of ultrasound on the surface with no defect. The model was found to generate the Rayleigh surface wave. The model was then extended to examine the interaction of laser generated ultrasound with surface-breaking cracks of various depths. The crack-scattered waves were monitored to size the crack depth. The proposed model clearly reproduced the experimentally observed features that can be used to characterize the presence of surface-breaking cracks.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.2 s.63
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.461-466
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• 2004

This study presents a combined experimental and numerical effort to investigate wave breaking of sinusoidal waves in a surf zone. Numerical predictions are verified by comparing to laboratory measurements. The model solves the Reynolds equations and$textsc{k}$-$\varepsilon$ models for the turbulence analysis. To track the free surface displacement, the volume of fluid method is employed. As the height of incident wave increases, the wave breaking occurs at a closer point of the slope in the numerical model and laboratory experiments with the same depth and period. When a wave breaking occurs, the ratio of wave height becomes larger, with the same wave height and depth, as the period increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.168-180
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• 2000

In the Part I, the three dimensional model testing with NNW deep water wave direction gave the results such that the occurrence of breaking waves over the peak of Ear-Do caused very small wave height at the structure position. But the measured wave forces were rather greater than the calculated forces based on deep water wave height. Furthermore, It was also perceived that the time series of the forces looked like corresponding to the case that waves were superimposed by an unidirectional current. In the present Part II, the current is presumed to be a flow secondly induced by breaking waves, and an extensive study to clarify the current in a quantitative sense is performed through numerical analysis and hydraulic experiment. The results showed that a strong circulation can surely occur in the vicinity of the structure due to radiation stress differentials given by the breaking waves. It was also recognized that the velocity of the induced current varied with the magnitude of energy dissipation rate introduced in the numerical analysis. The numerical analysis was tuned adjusting the dissipation rate so that the calculated wave field could closely match with the experimental results of Part I. The fluid force (in prototype) for the optimal match showed approximately 2.2% increased over the calculated value based on the deep water wave height (24.6m) whereas the force corresponding to the average of the experimental values showed the increase of about 13.0%.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.384-395
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• 2020

Breaking waves generated by wave shoaling in coastal areas have a close relationship with various physical phenomena in coastal regions, such as sediment transport, longshore currents, and shock wave pressure. Therefore, it is crucial to accurately predict breaker index such as breaking wave height and breaking depth, when designing coastal structures. Numerous scientific efforts have been made in the past by many researchers to identify and predict the breaking phenomenon. Representative studies on wave breaking provide many empirical formulas for the prediction of breaking index, mainly through hydraulic model experiments. However, the existing empirical formulas for breaking index determine the coefficients of the assumed equation through statistical analysis of data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this paper, we applied a representative linear-based supervised machine learning algorithms that show high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification problems. Based on the used machine learning methods, a model for prediction of the breaking index is developed from previously published experimental data on the breaking wave, and a new linear equation for prediction of breaker index is presented from the trained model. The newly proposed breaker index formula showed similar predictive performance compared to the existing empirical formula, although it was a simple linear equation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.37-49
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• 2024

To date, numerous empirical formulas have been proposed through hydraulic model experiments to predict the wave breaker index, including wave height and depth of wave breaking, due to the inherent complexity of generation mechanisms. Unfortunately, research on the characteristics of wave breaking and the prediction of the wave breaker index for gravel beaches has been limited. This study aims to forecast the wave breaker index for gravel beaches using representative linear-based machine learning techniques known for their high predictive performance in regression or classification problems across various research fields. Initially, the applicability of existing empirical formulas for wave breaker indices to gravel seabeds was assessed. Various linear-based machine learning algorithms were then employed to build prediction models, aiming to overcome the limitations of existing empirical formulas in predicting wave breaker indices for gravel seabeds. Among the developed machine learning models, a new calculation formula for easily computable wave breaker indices based on the model was proposed, demonstrating high predictive performance for wave height and depth of wave breaking on gravel beaches. The study validated the predictive capabilities of the proposed wave breaker indices through hydraulic model experiments and compared them with existing empirical formulas. Despite its simplicity as a polynomial, the newly proposed empirical formula for wave breaking indices in this study exhibited exceptional predictive performance for gravel beaches.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.158-168
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• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.100-108
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• 1998

Morison formula has been used in the determination of wave forces acting on vertical cylindrical piles of ocean structures. The formula, however, can be applied to mildly varying varying incident waves with symmetrical shapes. The breaking waves impinge on structures with very high impact forces, which completely differ from the inertia and drag forces of the Morison formula in both magnitudes and characteristics. In the present study, a boundary element method is applied to determine the water particle velocity and acceleration under the breaking waves. A numerical model is then developed to determine breaking wave forces utilizing those water particle kinematics. The results of the model is then developed to determine breaking wave forces utilizing those water particle kinematics. The results of the model agree well with existing experimental data, giving maximal wave forces 3 times and maximal moments 5 times larger than the Morison formula does.