• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.50-61
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• 2001

In this paper, nonlinear interactions between water waves and a horizontally submerged circular cylinder are numerically simulated. In this case, the nonlinear interactions between them generated a wave breaking phenomenon. The wave breaking phenomenon plays an important role in the wave farce. Negative drifting forces are raised at shallow submerged cylinders under waves because of the wave breaking phenomenon. For the numerical simulation, a finite difference method based on the unsteady incompressible Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation is adopted in the rectangular grid system. The free surface is simulated with a computational simulation method of two-layer flow by using marker density. The results are compared with some existing computational and experimental results.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.117-121
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• 2001

For the effective development or preservation of Tokdo, the natural environments in the ambient sea area should be well investigated. The wave deformations and wave breaking in the vicinity have much affected the bottom morphology of Tokdo as well as its ecological environment. The present study investigates the wave deformations and wave breaking through a numerical model. The final goal is to provide the fundamental wave data for the effective development or preservation of Tokdo in future. The extended mild slope equation was applied to Tokdo sea area for three different deep water wave conditions (S, SSE, NNE directions). The results showed that for the S and SSE directions the wave heights in the area between the east island and the west island were very low with the level of 1~2m, but for the NNE direction they appeared pretty high with 3~4m, In the sea area near the northwest of west island, the wave heights were low to be 1~3m for all three directions of deep water wave.

• Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.16-27
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• 2008

The interaction between advancing ships and the waves generated by them plays important roles in wave resistances and ship motions. Wave breaking phenomena near the ship bow at different speeds are investigated both numerically and experimentally. Numerical simulations of free surface profiles near the fore bodies of ships are performed and visualized to grasp the general trend or the mechanism of wave breaking phenomena from moderate waves rather than concentrating on local chaotic irregularities as ship speeds increase. Navier-Stokes equations are differentiated based on the finite difference method. The Marker and Cell (MAC) Method and Marker-Density Method are employed, and they are compared for the description of free surface conditions associated with the governing equations. Extra effort has been directed toward the realization of extremely complex free surface conditions at wave breaking. For this purpose, the air-water interface is treated with marker density, which is used for two layer flows of fluids with different properties. Adaptation schemes and refinement of the numerical grid system are also used at local complex flows to improve the accuracy of the solutions. In addition to numerical simulations, various model tests are performed in a ship model towing tank. The results are compared with numerical calculations for verification and for realizing better, more efficient research performance. It is expected that the present research results regarding wave breaking and the geometry of the fore body of ship will facilitate better hull form design productivity at the preliminary ship design stage, especially in the case of small and fast ship design. Also, the obtained knowledge on the impact due to the interaction of breaking waves and an advancing hull surface is expected to be applicable to investigation of the ship bow slamming problem as a specific application.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.303-312
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• 2007

There is still a controversy going on about how to model energy dissipation due to breaking over frequency domain. In this study, we unveil the exact structure of energy dissipation using stochastic wave breaking model. It turns out that contrary to our present understanding, energy dissipation is cubically distributed over frequency domain. The verification of proposed model is conducted using the acquired data during SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project (Krauss et al., 1992). For further verification, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of Conoidal wave over a beach of uniform slope, and obtain very promising results from the viewpoint of a skewness and asymmetry of wave field, usually regarded as the most fastidious parameter to satisfy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.262-272
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• 2020

A large number of studies on wave breaking have been carried out, and many experimental data have been documented. Moreover, on the basis of various experimental data set, many empirical or semi-empirical formulas based primarily on regression analysis have been proposed to quantitatively estimate wave breaking for engineering applications. However, wave breaking has an inherent variability, which imply that a linear statistical approach such as linear regression analysis might be inadequate. This study presents an alternative nonlinear method using an neural network, one of the machine learning methods, to estimate breaking wave height and breaking depth. The neural network is modeled using Tensorflow, a machine learning open source platform distributed by Google. The neural network is trained by randomly selecting the collected experimental data, and the trained neural network is evaluated using data not used for learning process. The results for wave breaking height and depth predicted by fully trained neural network are more accurate than those obtained by existing empirical formulas. These results show that neural network is an useful tool for the prediction of wave breaking.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 1996

Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.1931-1934
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a step region. The overall comparisons between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.193-201
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• 1993

Experimental investigation of nonlinear instability of deep-water wave train is performed. Two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir type wave instability and breaking are observed at wave steepness between 0.19 and 0.25 and three-dimensional instability and breaking at wave steepness greater than or equal to 0.31. At the same wave steepness, shorter waves with smaller amplitude are more unstable, with earlier occurrence of breaking, than long waves with large amplitude.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.76-83
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• 1993

In this study, an approximate method for calculating the directional spectrum of waves encountering a current in shallow water is developed. The wave trains in tile directional spectrum are assumed to be linear and Gaussian; development of the spectrum requires that the waves also be short crested. The Miche's breaking criterion is imposed to determine the upper limit of wave height and to establish an expression for the breaking wave elevation in terms of the ideal wave's elevation and the second time derivative of wave elevation. Two examples are given; one for a Wallops directional spectrum encountering a shear current and another with an upwelling current.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.439-445
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• 2017

Plunging breaker slamming pressures on vertical or sloping sea dikes are one of the most severe and dangerous loads that sea dike structures can suffer. Many studies have investigated the impact forces caused by breaking waves for maritime structures including sea dikes and most predictions of the breaker forces are based on empirical or semi-empirical formulae calibrated from laboratory experiments. However, the wave breaking mechanism is complex and more research efforts are still needed to improve the accuracy in predicting breaker forces. This study proposes a semi-empirical formula, which is based on impulse-momentum relation, to calculate the slamming pressure due to plunging wave breaking on a sloping sea dike. Compared with some measured slamming pressure data in two literature, the calculation results by the new formula show reasonable agreements. Also, by analysing probability distribution function of wave heights, the proposed formula can be converted into a probabilistic expression form for convenience only.