• 제목/요약/키워드: Wave breaking

검색결과 369건 처리시간 0.028초

해안지하수위가 해빈변형에 미치는 영향 (Effects of Coastal Groundwater Level on Beach Deformation)

  • 이우동;허동수
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제33권6호
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    • pp.581-589
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    • 2019
  • In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

1994년 7월 부산지역의 폭염으로 인한 일 사망률 특성 연구 (Characteristics of daily mortality due to heat waves in Busan in July 1994)

  • 이대근;김지영;최병철
    • 대기
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    • 제17권4호
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    • pp.463-470
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    • 2007
  • This study aims to assess the impact of the hot summer weather on daily mortality in Busan. Daily total all-caused mortality in the entire population in Busan has been examined during 1991-2005. The daily deaths were standardized to account for the long-term trend in mortality and their seasonal and weekly cycles. We found the net increase (about 8.2%) of excess deaths during the extraordinary heat wave period in July of 1994. It corresponds to the excess deaths of 109.5 during the month. The abnormality of temperature extremes in July of 1994 and their impacts on human health were also investigated. Unusual heat wave appeared in the first ten days in July of 1994. The excess deaths are likely to be attributable to the record-breaking heat waves. The result suggests that unusual early heat waves would be dangerous, even for inhabitants who live in an acclimated region to the heat waves such as Busan.

A Numerical Solution. Method for Two-dimensional Nonlinear Water Waves on a Plane Beach of Constant Slope

  • Lee, Young-Gill;Heo, Jae-Kyung;Jeong, Kwang-Leol;Kim, Kang-Sin
    • Journal of Ship and Ocean Technology
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.61-69
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    • 2004
  • Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

소규모 어항의 항내매몰 방지대책 검토 (Countermeasures for the Siltation in Small Fishery Harbors)

  • 김규한
    • 한국해안해양공학회지
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    • 제13권2호
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    • pp.169-176
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    • 2001
  • 동해안에 위치한 대부분의 중소어항의 표사이동에는 파랑과 해빈류가 주외력으로 작용하여 있으며, 주변은 사빈해안을 이루고 있다. 또한, 대부분이 소규모 어항이므로 항 입구부가 쇄파대 내에 위치하고 있어서 지형변화가 극심하며, 항 입구부 및 항내에 심각한 매몰현상이 발생되고 있다. 이와 같은 문제를 해결하기 위해서는 우선, 사전예측 및 항내매몰 현상의 정확한 재현을 통해 그 원인을 파악할 필요가 있다. 또한, 경제적인 측면을 고려하여 중소어항에 실질적으로 사용될 수 있는 매몰방지 대책안을 도출하고, 그에 대한 방지효과를 수치시뮬레이션을 통해 검토하고자 한다.

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터렛 계류된 LNG-FSRU의 극한 계류 해석 (Extreme Mooring Analysis of Turret Moored LNG-FSRU)

  • 이민경;정광효;박성부;유병석;정윤석
    • 대한조선학회논문집
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    • 제53권5호
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    • pp.435-446
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    • 2016
  • In this study, hydrodynamic and mooring analysis for LNG FSRU moored by an internal turret with 9 mooring lines are numerically performed using commercial softwares, Hydrostar and Ariane. Met-ocean combinations for screening method are taken from wave governed condition(BV Rule Note NR 493) with relative heading between wave and wind between −45° and +45° and relative heading between wind and current between −30° and +30°. Extreme mooring analysis and sensitivity analysis are performed for intact and damaged (=one line missing) conditions and the parameters for sensitivity analysis are wave peak period, peak enhancement factor and line pretension. In the viewpoint of the design tension in mooring line, chain diameter is designed to satisfy safety factor for each conditions. As the chain diameter is increased from 152mm to 171mm, the designtension is reduced while the minimum breaking load is increased.

Numerical Simulation of 3D Free-Surface Flows by Using CIP-based and FV-based Methods

  • Yang, Kyung-Kyu;Nam, Bo-Woo;Kim, Yong-Hwan
    • International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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    • 제1권3호
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    • pp.136-143
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    • 2011
  • In this paper, three-dimensional free-surface flows are simulated by using two different numerical methods, the constrained interpolation profile (CIP)-based and finite volume (FV)-based methods. In the CIP-based method, the governing equations are solved on stationary staggered Cartesian grids by a finite difference method, and an immersed boundary technique is applied to deal with wave-body interactions. In the FV-based method, the governing equations are solved by applying collocated finite volume discretization, and body-fitted meshes are used. A free-surface boundary is considered as the interface of the multi-phase flow with air and water, and a volumeof-fluid (VOF) approach is applied to trace the free surface. Among many variations of the VOF-type method, the tangent of hyperbola for interface capturing (THINC) and the compressive interface capturing scheme for arbitrary meshes (CICSAM) techniques are used in the CIP-based method and FV-based method, respectively. Numerical simulations have been carried out for dam-breaking and wave-body interaction problems. The computational results of the two methods are compared with experimental data and their differences are observed.

최대월파량의 발생에 따른 사석방파제 배후면 피복석의 안정성에 관한 연구 (A study on stability of rear side armor with maximum overtopping)

  • 류청로;김홍진;최종욱;김헌태
    • 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국해양공학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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    • pp.121-127
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    • 2003
  • Wave overtopping is one of the most important hydraulic responses of breakwater because it significantly affects its functional efficiency, the safety of transit and mooring on the rear side, wave transmission in the sheltered area, rear side armor stones and to some extent, the structural safety itself. In this study, hydraulic model tests has been carried out to investigate the influence of berm's size on overtopping rate by maximum overtopping rate and mean overtopping rate. The hydrodynamic characteristics of berm breakwater by the overtopping rate can be summarized as follows: 1. It is better to use maximum overtopping rate than to use mean overtopping rate for design of coastal structures in the point of view of stability. 2. When construct berm to decrease energy of waves that it was needed to make breaking conditions of wave on the berm. 3. Under the relative length of berm was over 0.13 overtopping rate was significantly decreased. 4. Overtopping rate affected significantly by the relative length of yhe berm than height of the berm.

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해안구조물과 파랑상호작용에 관한 수치모델 및 실험 (Measurement and Numerical Model on Wave Interaction with Coastal Structure)

  • 김인철
    • 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.30-38
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    • 2009
  • 최근에 해안구조물의 시공에 있어 친수성 및 방재 기능을 동시에 갖는 구조물이 검토되는 사례가 증가하고 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 비교적 급한 1:5 사면을 가진 해안구조물 위로 전파하는 파랑변형 및 파의 처오름을 예측하는 것이다. 사면 위의 파랑변형 및 처오름을 해석하기 위하여 비선형 천수방정식을 사용하였으며, 투수층 내의 유체운동에는 확장형 Forchheimer의 저항법칙에 근거한 비선형, 비정상 Darcy법칙을 적용하여 규칙파 및 불규칙파를 대상으로 수행되었고, 계산결과는 PBREAK 수치모델의 적용성 및 한계성을 검토하기 위하여 수리모형실험 결과와 비교검토 되었다. PBREAK 수치모델은 사면 위의 파형의 변화를 잘 예측하였으나 질량 및 운동량의 교환이 많이 발생하는 쇄파대 내에서 수리모형실험 결과와 약간의 차이를 보여주었다. 또한 수심평균된 수립자 유속은 파봉 부근을 제외하고 파곡 아래에서 계측한 실험치와 잘 일치하였다.

$\cdot$수중방파제$\cdot$지반의 비선형 동적응답에 관한 연구 (Nonlinear Dynamic Responses among Wave, Submerged Breakwater and Seabed)

  • 허동수;김창훈;염경선;김도삼
    • 한국해양공학회지
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    • 제19권6호통권67호
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    • pp.35-43
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    • 2005
  • Recently, various-shaped coastal structures have been studied and developed. Among them, the submerged breakwater became generally known as a more effective structure than other structures, bemuse it not only serves its original function, but also has the ability to preserve the coastal environment. Most previous investigations have been focused on the wave deformation and energy dissipation due to submerged breakwater, but less interest was given to their internal properties and dynamic behavior of the seabed foundation under wave loadings. In this study, a direct numerical simulation (DNS) is newly proposed to study the dynamic interaction between a permeable submerged breakwater aver a sand seabed and nonlinear waves, including wave breaking. The accuracy of the model is checked by comparing the numerical solution with the existing experimental data related to wave $\cdot$ permeable submerged breakwater $\cdot$ seabed interaction, and showed fairly nice agreement between them. From the numerical results, based on the newly proposed numerical model, the properties of the wave-induced pore water pressure and the flow in the seabed foundation are studied. In relation to their internal properties, the stability oj the permeable submerged breakwater is discussed.

수치파 수조를 이용한 파랑 충격력 수치해석 (Numerical Analysis of Wave Impact Forces in Numerical Wave Basin)

  • 신영섭;홍기용
    • 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국항해항만학회 2006년도 추계학술대회 논문집(제1권)
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    • pp.205-210
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    • 2006
  • 해양구조물 설계시 급격한 파랑에 의한 충격력은 구조물 안전을 위한 중요한 설계인자이다. 이러한 충격력은 과도한 하중이 극히 짧은 시간 사이에 발생하는 현상으로 실험적 또는 수치해석적으로 해석하기 매우 어려운 문제이다. 본 연구에서는 급격한 파랑에 의한 충격력을 해석하기 위하여 수치파수조를 이용하여 N.S. 방정식에 기반한 수치해석을 수행하였다. 임의파를 선형중첩에 기반하여 조파기를 작동시켜 재현하였고 다블록격자하에서 수직실린더에 작용하는 충격력을 수치해석하였다. 한편 자유표면은 V.O.F. 및 local height function을 이용하여 추적하였다. 수치해석 검증을 위하여 수치해석 및 실험 결과와 비교를 수행하였는데 비교적 만족할 수 있는 결과를 확인하였으나 해양구조물 설계시 유용한 결과를 얻기 위해서는 쇄파와 같은 극한파 재현과 극한파에 의한 충격력에 대한 많은 연구가 지속되어야 함을 알 수 있었다.

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