• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.29 no.3 s.99
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• pp.257-262
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• 2005

Environmental problems and safety problems in coastal area is one of the most important factors for designing coastal structures and maintaining facilities in coastal zone. And thus study on Wave transformation around coastal area is very important to develope a new port or on industrial area. Delft 3D-WAVE is applied to Ulsan new port area and the culculated results are analysed and compared with measured data Delft 3D-wave module is based on SWAN model which considers wave shoaling and refraction for irregular wave. This module also covers wind effect, bottom friction. white-capping and wave breaking effect. The results of this study show a good agreement with measured data and thus Delft 3D-WAVE module can be applied to simulate irregular wave transformation in coastal area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.83-95
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• 1990

It can be assumed that the ocean waves consist of many independent pure sinusoidal components which progress in arbitrary directions. To analyze irregular sea waves, both the spectrum method and the individual wave method have been used. The spectral approach is valid in the region where the water depth is deep and the linear property of velocity distribution is predominent, while the individual wave analysis method in the region where the water depth is shallow and the wave nonlinearity is significant. Therefore, to investigate the irregular wave transformation from the deep water to the shallow water region, it is necessary to relate the frequency spectrum which is estimated by the spectrum analysis method to the i oint probability distribution of wave height, period and direction affected by the boundary condition of the individual wave analysis method. It also becomes important to define the region where both methods can be applied. This study is a part of investigation to establish a systematic approach for analyzing the irregular wave transformation. The region where the spectral approach can be applied is discussed by earring out the experiments on the irregular wave transformation in the two-dimensional wave tank together with the numerical simulation. The applicability of the individual wave analysis method for predicting irregular wave transformation including wave shoaling and breaking and the relation between frequency spectrum and joint probability distribution of wave height and period are also investigated through the laboratory experiment and numerical simualtion.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.31 no.4B
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• pp.333-341
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• 2011

This study analyzed the propagation of dam-break waves in an area directly downstream of a dam by using 3D numerical modeling with RANS as the governing equation. In this area, the flow of the waves has three dimensional characteristics due to the instantaneous dam break. In particular, the dam-break flows are characterized by a highly unsteady and discontinuous flow, a mixture of the sharp flood waves and their reflected waves, a mixture of subcritical and supercritical flow, and propagation in a dry and movable bed. 2D numerical modeling, in which the governing equation is the shallow water equation, was regarded as restricted in terms of dealing with the sharp fluctuation of the water level at the dam-breaking point and water level vibration at the reservoir. However, in this 30 analysis of flood wave propagation due to partial dam breaking and dam-break in channels with $90^{\circ}$ bend, those phenomena were properly simulated. In addition, the flood wave and bed profiles in a movable bed with a flat/upward/downward bed step, which represents channel aggradation or degradation, was also successfully simulated.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2011.06a
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• pp.399-401
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• 2011

반잠수식 시추선의 주선체(lower hull)를 세 가지 타입으로 설계하여 주선체에 대한 유체정역학적 계산, 조종성능 및 내항성능 계산 그리고 이론계산을 수행하여 wave distribution과 height도 각각 비교 분석하였다. 주선체의 Convention type, Bulbous bow type, 그리고 Ice breaking type 중 Ice breaking type 선형의 성능이 가장 우수하였다. 다음으로는 반잠수식 시추선의 모든 조건(작업, 이동, 생존)에서 주기둥(column) 또는 주선체(Lower)가 손상되어 부력을 상실했을 시 전복 되지 않도록 고안된 예비부력 기능과 기름 유출 사고시 기름을 회수 할 수 있는 기능을 갖춘 유회수 겸용 예비부력 탱크를 개발하였다.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.439-455
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• 2012

Coupled wave induced current modeling system(WIC) was developed from combining with the nearshore spectral wave model, SWAN, the wave induced force model, WIF, and the flow model, EFDC. The reasonable results were obtained from WIC modeling system. The ratio of the wave height calculated with respect to refraction and diffraction effects over submerged spherical shoal was occurred approximately 1~5 % errors compared to Goda(2000)'s result. The radiation stress suggested by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart(1960), the stresses due to rollers in breaking waves proposed by Dally and Osiecki(1994), and Kim(2004)'s new spreading approach instead of the previous lateral mixing approach were added to calculate wave induced force. The results of the WIC modeling system show good agreement with Nishimura et al.(1985)'s laboratory measurements and better than Kim(2004)'s 2 dimensional depth averaged numerical computations for a plane beach with detached breakwater. The present flow field computed agrees reasonably well with the measured flow field. The relative merit of WIF model in WIC modeling system is unconditional stable for time increment.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.82-90
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• 2021

Owing to the advantages of assuring the best views and seawater exchange, submerged breakwaters have been widely installed along the eastern coast of Korea in recent years. It significantly contributes to promoting the advancement of shorelines by partially inhibiting incident wave energy. Observations were carried out by a pressure-type wave gauge in the Bongpo Beach to evaluate the coefficients of wave transmission via a submerged breakwater, and the results obtained were compared with those of existing conventional equations on the transmission coefficient derived from hydraulic experiments. After reviewing the existing equations, we proposed a transmission coefficient equation in terms of an error function. Although it exhibited robust relationships with the crest height and breaking coefficient, deviations from the observed data were evident and considered to be triggered by the difference in the incident wave climate. Therefore, in this study, we conducted a numerical experiment to verify the influence of wave period on the coefficients of wave transmission, in which we adopted a parabolic-type mild-slope equation model. Consequently, the deviation from calculated results appears to practically cover all deviation range in the observed data. The wave period and direction of the incident wave increased, the transmission coefficient decreased, and the wave direction was determined to demonstrate a relatively significant influence on the transmission coefficient. It was inferred that this numerical study is expected to be used practically in evaluating the design achievement of the submerged breakwater, which is adopted as a countermeasure to coastal beach erosion.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.03a
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.